Power Drain

[xf1v3xf33txf4tx]

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i tried putting a grommet in there and i just couldn't get it on to fit..so what would be the best alternative to a grommet and my car is a 2001 mitsubishi galant

is there anyway to check the voltage at your alternator or battery while playing music, preferably at a pretty high volume? That will at least give us an idea of where the power loss is coming from. If your alt stays up on voltage then we know it isn't that and there is probably just a bad connection somewhere. If that checks out ok...

Then make sure the voltage is ok just after your battery, possibly AFTER the fuse from the battery. If that is low, then you have a bad connection either at your fuse somewhere or at your battery, either from your alt or the amp's power wire.

Also, you are sure your battery is operating fully correct? What is the resting voltage of your battery?

when you mean checking the alternator voltage you mean the charging voltage at the battery

where should i check the voltage after the fuse(like specifically at what points)

i think the resting voltage last time i checked a couple of weeks ago it was 12.5 and i think the charging voltage at the battery was like 14.88

[xf1v3xf33txf4tx]

Take a drive over to autozone and let them check your battery with a batt tester. If it has a bad cell, or has been killed/jump started too many times, it won't perform well or charge to full capacity... that's a major issue with non-deep cycle batteries. That is the other major thing to check. The wiring looks fine if your CERTAIN all your connections are strong.

**Edit

If you have an old battery, or the factory installed battery still, it might be time to replace it. It may not have mattered YET, but then adding the strain of the system really shows the batteries health.

OR

If you made mistakes along the way installing, like, not charging the cap properly, or letting the car die while working on it and jump starting it alot, then you probably damaged your battery. I've seen multiple people do this. It will lead to EXACTLY the symptoms you were describing.

i know i didn't charge the cap right because i didn't have a resistor at the time or a light to use so i charged it by turning the car on and having no music or any accessories on let it charge it self

[osamio]

Take a drive over to autozone and let them check your battery with a batt tester. If it has a bad cell, or has been killed/jump started too many times, it won't perform well or charge to full capacity... that's a major issue with non-deep cycle batteries. That is the other major thing to check. The wiring looks fine if your CERTAIN all your connections are strong.

**Edit

If you have an old battery, or the factory installed battery still, it might be time to replace it. It may not have mattered YET, but then adding the strain of the system really shows the batteries health.

OR

If you made mistakes along the way installing, like, not charging the cap properly, or letting the car die while working on it and jump starting it alot, then you probably damaged your battery. I've seen multiple people do this. It will lead to EXACTLY the symptoms you were describing.

i know i didn't charge the cap right because i didn't have a resistor at the time or a light to use so i charged it by turning the car on and having no music or any accessories on let it charge it self

No, the charging step occurs IMMEDIATELY when you connect +12v to the cap. If you just put the wire on, you probably noticed some sparks etc... That is a GREAT way to ruin a non-deep cycle battery...

Properly charging a cap means to place a load (light, resistor, etc) between the +12v wire and the Cap's + terminal, and letting the cap SLOWLY charge.

I'm telling you, Take the car to autozone and let them test your battery. If it's bad, and your replace it, even with a normal starter battery, it WILL fix the problem.

[xf1v3xf33txf4tx]

Take a drive over to autozone and let them check your battery with a batt tester. If it has a bad cell, or has been killed/jump started too many times, it won't perform well or charge to full capacity... that's a major issue with non-deep cycle batteries. That is the other major thing to check. The wiring looks fine if your CERTAIN all your connections are strong.

**Edit

If you have an old battery, or the factory installed battery still, it might be time to replace it. It may not have mattered YET, but then adding the strain of the system really shows the batteries health.

OR

If you made mistakes along the way installing, like, not charging the cap properly, or letting the car die while working on it and jump starting it alot, then you probably damaged your battery. I've seen multiple people do this. It will lead to EXACTLY the symptoms you were describing.

i know i didn't charge the cap right because i didn't have a resistor at the time or a light to use so i charged it by turning the car on and having no music or any accessories on let it charge it self

No, the charging step occurs IMMEDIATELY when you connect +12v to the cap. If you just put the wire on, you probably noticed some sparks etc... That is a GREAT way to ruin a non-deep cycle battery...

Properly charging a cap means to place a load (light, resistor, etc) between the +12v wire and the Cap's + terminal, and letting the cap SLOWLY charge.

I'm telling you, Take the car to autozone and let them test your battery. If it's bad, and your replace it, even with a normal starter battery, it WILL fix the problem.

they checked them and everything seemed fine

[MrSkippyJ]

when you mean checking the alternator voltage you mean the charging voltage at the battery

where should i check the voltage after the fuse(like specifically at what points)

i think the resting voltage last time i checked a couple of weeks ago it was 12.5 and i think the charging voltage at the battery was like 14.88

What I really mean is to check the voltage with music playing at every connection, see where it starts to go down.

[xf1v3xf33txf4tx]

when you mean checking the alternator voltage you mean the charging voltage at the battery

where should i check the voltage after the fuse(like specifically at what points)

i think the resting voltage last time i checked a couple of weeks ago it was 12.5 and i think the charging voltage at the battery was like 14.88

What I really mean is to check the voltage with music playing at every connection, see where it starts to go down.

the voltage from the battery to the fuse and across the fuse was around 40mV-60mV and the voltage from the ground on amp to the ground was less than 10mV and the voltage from the positive at the amp to frame ground was 14.34, just a 100mV from positive and ground at the amp

[DBz]

Get a nice battery in the front (Optima, XS <- if you got the money) , and get a Group 31 battery in the trunk. should be good to go. Throw that cap away too lol