Edited by soberbills, 10 May 2008 - 06:42 PM.
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!
Posted 10 May 2008 - 06:04 PM
Team DC Audio Midwest captain
Posted 10 May 2008 - 06:07 PM
A cap is only good if you have 0 voltage loss and want to clean up the power at the peaks of the ripples..
Boon: Don't get hung up on specs like xmax. It's probably the third-most lied about spec, after power handling and sensitivity.
"Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go."
was the fact I won't get to find out whats going to happen tomorrow if I die today.
Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.
The Destruction of a person builds character.
Hoo-Bangin' on the transformers
Getting my stalk on walk on "Skip skip"
Sack jacking purse snatching hoo-banging till I die
Posted 10 May 2008 - 06:51 PM
My general rule of thumb is, you get what you pay for.
It seems to work that way in alot of cases.
x2. im the type of person if im going to build something its got to be the best. i would say powermaster or stinger. go big or go home
i was thinking leave the 12 sitting in the box in the hole and duck tape from the bottom of the sub to the bottom of the baffle so the sub doesnt free air. would that work?
Posted 10 May 2008 - 06:55 PM
Team DC Audio Midwest captain
Posted 10 May 2008 - 09:54 PM
The duralast DEEP cycle means you can drain it down to zero volts and recharge it just fine...assuming you don't "abuse it".
you can discharge a optima a grip load of times, but i don't know about that durashit
It will however be OUTPERFORMED (i.e. more cycles per battery life, and quicker recharge/discharge time) compared to an Optima.
It's a "regular" deep cycle and is not inteded for ABUSE.
The Optima is a much more "over-engineered battery" much like a Stinger/Kinetik/Odyssey/Powermaster etc. Those batts are designed to PERFORM under ABUSE...therefore, they are overkill in your standard battery role (some folks live by overkill) and would be a better idea for someone planning on adding a lot of strain on ONE under hood battery (i.e. a large amp drawing mucho current).
The Duralast Battery would be fine "for now" ....but despite having MORE CA/CCA than an OPTIMA, it is not neccesarily "the better battery" for your application, especially in the LONG RUN/battery life.
Most over-engineered "overkill" style batteries that are better suited to an audio setup BECAUSE they are capable of PERFORMING even under extreme strain (high or Low temps, High or low voltage/massive drops, slow recharge rate via a stock ALTERNATOR, High resisitence "systems" with undergauged wire, etc) whereas the Duralast battery will show more CCA's...it is more likely to fail under "abnormal strain" (i.e. what I mentioned above)
The other issue is the Duralast is a Lead acid battery. The kind that have thick lead plates inside surrounded by sulfuric acid. They ARE NOT maintenance free...whereas OPTIMAs ARE maint. free AND you can mount them in any position you want without fear of SPILLING the acid out.
Not to mention, if you allow the acid level of a lead acid battery to drop too low (it will evaporate out over time and BOIL out under strain), when the battery is in USE the Lead PLates inside that are "exposed" HEAT UP more than normally ( plates not surrounded by the acid due to it being lower than normal and leaving the top part of the plates EXPOSED and DRY) and the acid inside the battery will boil, turn into Vapor... acidic vapor that will VENT OUT of the battery (they are designed to do this) and these gases smell like a NASTY egg fart due to the "sulfur gas". The gasses can cause headaches/nausea and just plain smells nasty.
I would say the DL deep cycle would be OK as a "for now" fix AS LONG AS IT'S UNDER HOOD OR IN THE BED OF A TRUCK....Not in the cabin with you...YOU DO NOT want to be breathing that sulfur gas all day.....but if you are going to be using it as the MAIN under hood batttery, I would recommend a DUAL PURPOSE battery or a decent starting battery under hood AND a deep cycle, along with an upgraded Alternator, that can keep up with charging them both.
Posted 10 May 2008 - 10:21 PM
how much do you have to spend on a battery?
Posted 11 May 2008 - 02:25 AM
well that answer isnt enough for anyone to help search for a better battery..if you have enough then go ahead get a power master d3100 for $299 instead of that duralast and call it a day..
Get THE BEST you can afford.
Next, don't force that battery to perform past its limitations and it should last a long time (4-5yrs is avge)
For the most part I agree that you get what you pay for (with exceptions of course, and only UP TO a certain point)
I have a Stinger battery in my car.
I would run a Kinetik or Optima Yellow or 2 or 3 as my next additional batteries.
I would look in to Paowermaster but I'm under the impression they are more $$ and thus out of my $$$ range.
Reply to this topic
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users