All Activity

Make sure to go like the video and comment on the YouTube video - https://youtu.be/I7TZTvmzDcA?si=eloR83MgU6f4Atst

that rockville amp isnt doing you any favors there. on that ticket, neither are the e series subs. its all what i used to sell as entry level. (not the rockville... never that) the list i sent you would be worlds louder than anything those e subs can do

radio out to dsp. dsp out to bass knob and 4 chan amps. bass knob out to epi. epi out to bass amp. does your dsp not have a bass knob? if it does i would use that over a rca bass knob. just my opinion tho

there really isn't a best website... I learned a lot from this forum years ago and just started playing with design software. over the years I've learned A LOT by just doing it. a good place to start is with Torres box tuning calculator (there's a free link in enclosures section) and winISD (google has the link for this one) I start with measurements in the car and transfer those into Torres to see where I'm at airspace wise. if you are going sealed then the numbers it outputs there will be roughly what you'll have for airspace. if you are going ported id usually rough in 1/4 to 1/3 extra for port displacement at this point (you can fine tune this later). next is port dimensions. its more of a game trying to balance net volume, port tuning, and sq in of port area (generally shoot for 12-15 sq in per foot of port area as a basic guide) once you have what you like there you can use the cutsheet to build the box if you would like, or you could take it a step further and input it all into winISD to see a few graphs of what your box should perform like. there's a good bit of setup involved with winISD and I'm sure you can find all the info you would need here on the forum using the search bar for winISD. I'm not an expert on any of this by any means, but through the better part of the last 15 years I've gained a bit of knowledge on at least what not to do. experiment and explore with these programs and see what you can come up with. if you are stumped on something post it up with some screenshots and I'll be more than happy to give you a few pointers.

New Second Skin soundproofing video on our YouTube channel...get over there, like, comment, and enter to win a $500 shopping spree of soundproofing! https://youtu.be/I7TZTvmzDcA?si=eloR83MgU6f4Atst 1K giveaway details: (2) $500 winners for a Shopping Spree on the Second Skin Audio How to Enter: (1) Make sure you're subscribed to our YouTube (2) Comment on the YouTube video your vehicle build and noise issue Giveaway Terms & Conditions: Each subscribe and comment is (1) entry. So (2) entries max per person. Offer ends in 1 week (6/8/2024) Winners will be announced on 6/12/2024 1K giveaway social 1.mp4

i have a bass amp and a voice amp and i want to put a epi center and a dsp and i have a rca bass knob and i am confused on how many rca cables i will need and how to run them all.

what is the best website for designing subwoofer enclosures?

my current setup is 2 sundown E series 12s in a 2.5cu slot port enclosure running on a 2000 watt max rockville audio amp (db12) stock electrical pioneer double din headunit also have a speaker wall above my back seats with 2 rockville marine speakers and a ds18 pro 8” midrange and 2 skar 3.5” tweeters running on a rockville full range amp all wiring for amps is rockville 4gauge and rockville rca

how much air space does this subwoofer need?

this would get down. would even have a bit left over to get a box built and a second battery. if you are feeling spicy you can add some lithium power and rock with the D1 sub at 0.5 ohm... might be a bit much power for that sub at 0.5 ohm. the safe way would be to get the D2 coil config and run it at 1 ohm

how many and what size subs subs would you prefer?

what all equipment do you have currently?

my price range is around 2-3k want it to be loud but also daily driveable

my price range is around 2-3k and i want it to be loud but don’t want to spend a crazy amount

the e series is more of a budget line from sundown. you could possibly make a pair of x or z 12s move some air.

what is your crossover set at on the dsp?

honestly if you want to play with the big spl numbers you are going to need a serious budget... think 6 figure range. you could always save up over time. if you are just wanting some good bass that's something we can for sure help with. I'd need to know a rough number for your overall budget and I can make some recommendations based on that to get you some good sound. you've got a good vehicle for what you want. that generation Tahoe is a proven platform for bass.

i have a 2004 tahoe and want to do a spl build but i dont have a huge budget what would be the best and most efficient way to do the build?

Hello all, I am new here and was wondering if anyone has used the XDSP66BT DSP by NVX. I had a taramps 2.6 dsp and it was fairly easy to use and it got loud and clear. I have my high pass on the amp set to off and im running skar components in the front doors and it doesnt sound as punchy as it did with the taramps. Should i adjust the eq on the dsp or the head unit? thank you

That's too little fire power to get windy or anything like that, you can put the same subs in a small car and improve just a bit. Vehicles that get windy are on the thousands of watts and many high displacement / cone area subs.

i have two sundown e series 12s in a ported enclosure in a 2004 tahoe and they move a lot of air in the very back of the tahoe but in the front and second row seats it doesn’t really do anything what is the best way to get them windier

no, i didnt plug in the rca's, just had the + and - connected to a car battery and one 4ohm old car speaker connected up. i like dabbling with electronics in my spare time so may give it a go at some point to see if it can be fixed. the gain knob being set at max was probably a good indicator of how the previous owner ran this amp.

If your only complaint is the tun on/off thumps that's 100% solvable and it hasn't anything to do with your wire gauge or your batteries, those problems are generally solved by at least two means: 1) delay the turn on signal going to the amp or amps. 2) delay the amplifier connection to the speakers/subs by means of the use of a relay. There are already commercial devices available to do the above fixes.