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this would get down. would even have a bit left over to get a box built and a second battery. if you are feeling spicy you can add some lithium power and rock with the D1 sub at 0.5 ohm... might be a bit much power for that sub at 0.5 ohm. the safe way would be to get the D2 coil config and run it at 1 ohm

how many and what size subs subs would you prefer?

what all equipment do you have currently?

my price range is around 2-3k want it to be loud but also daily driveable

my price range is around 2-3k and i want it to be loud but don’t want to spend a crazy amount

the e series is more of a budget line from sundown. you could possibly make a pair of x or z 12s move some air.

what is your crossover set at on the dsp?

honestly if you want to play with the big spl numbers you are going to need a serious budget... think 6 figure range. you could always save up over time. if you are just wanting some good bass that's something we can for sure help with. I'd need to know a rough number for your overall budget and I can make some recommendations based on that to get you some good sound. you've got a good vehicle for what you want. that generation Tahoe is a proven platform for bass.

i have a 2004 tahoe and want to do a spl build but i dont have a huge budget what would be the best and most efficient way to do the build?

Hello all, I am new here and was wondering if anyone has used the XDSP66BT DSP by NVX. I had a taramps 2.6 dsp and it was fairly easy to use and it got loud and clear. I have my high pass on the amp set to off and im running skar components in the front doors and it doesnt sound as punchy as it did with the taramps. Should i adjust the eq on the dsp or the head unit? thank you

That's too little fire power to get windy or anything like that, you can put the same subs in a small car and improve just a bit. Vehicles that get windy are on the thousands of watts and many high displacement / cone area subs.

i have two sundown e series 12s in a ported enclosure in a 2004 tahoe and they move a lot of air in the very back of the tahoe but in the front and second row seats it doesn’t really do anything what is the best way to get them windier

no, i didnt plug in the rca's, just had the + and - connected to a car battery and one 4ohm old car speaker connected up. i like dabbling with electronics in my spare time so may give it a go at some point to see if it can be fixed. the gain knob being set at max was probably a good indicator of how the previous owner ran this amp.

If your only complaint is the tun on/off thumps that's 100% solvable and it hasn't anything to do with your wire gauge or your batteries, those problems are generally solved by at least two means: 1) delay the turn on signal going to the amp or amps. 2) delay the amplifier connection to the speakers/subs by means of the use of a relay. There are already commercial devices available to do the above fixes.

The kicker amp sounds great overall, not really looking for more on output just higher quality I guess in the line miss the Si, ZR , ZX KX lines . Been running kicker since mid 90’s just been fight to find away to stop and turn off and on pop. I have tried everything I can find . I took another amp different brand and used an old HU wired directly to my rear battery and would still get the same on and off pop. I guess I’m being way to ocd about this but I feel like this could be solved. The last thing I changed was I had two runs of 1/0 going to rear UGP 40ah and I made one into a ground. I still have a AGM xs power upfront underground told me to leave it . And not to use an isolator. Mornings my front Vm will go almost instantly to 14.5 but the Vm on the lithium slowly over about a minute will get to 14.5. During testing I even eliminated the lithium and still get the on off pop so I’m just ranting now lol.

Here are a number of options for a single amp 6 channel: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/ci45-5-channel-6-channel-8-channel-amplifiers.html?sort_order=price_asc&filter_f_op_42_237=1 The AudioControl LC-6.1200 will do 200 watts rms x 6 at 2 ohm.

Ok, that amps puts out nearly 2K at 1 or 2 ohm, it has been tested with the SMD AD-1 and is in the power range of your subs, Only if you have thoroughly checked your electrical, wiring, box design, gain settings to be perfect then you can look for another amp to see if your amp is under performing for some reason. To me your box is in the smaller side 2.25 to 2.5 net with 35 square inches per driver is what you should have.

I changed my mind a bit on the AMP setup. Currently I am planning on using 3 Fosgate T400X2ad 2 channel amps. That would give me all 6 speaker channels I need. That gives me my 180w minimum per speaker location I need. I am still hoping for a 1 amp solution to this though if anyone knows of one.

I'm using an audio control LC6i in my ford fusion that has had the "thump"/speaker pop issue on shut off since I installed it. Typically I think the LOC(if one is being used) is the culprit here. I'm using its GTO feature to turn the LOC on which turns the system on which is where my problem comes from. If memory serves what causes it would be the head unit turning off before the amp. I didn't have much luck fixing it so I decided to live with it. If you are having a similar issue, you could try wiring in a physical shut off switch to the REM wire on your amp then try shutting it off first before you turn the car/head unit off and see if the issue still persists. From there I'm not sure what to do since, like I said, I could not figure out how to fix this issue myself. Knowing your full setup, such as factory or after market head unit, LOC(if there is one) and such would help as well.

My current plan is 2 1000.4 amps to power 6 channels. I am looking at the B2 Rage MI 1000.4s because I love the one in my Ford Fusion. That being said I'm also looking to cut costs if I can by reducing the speaker amps to 1 if possible. I want to keep the factory setup of all 4 doors plus the center and rear deck. With that in mind is there a 6 channel 1500 watt door speaker amp that can fill my needs? I've googled around but I only seem to find amps that are built to power 4 doors and 1 or 2 subs(from what I can gather reading the power outputs of the channels anyways).

I have the newest model 46CXA1800.1T it’s 1ohm stable.

Your box is in the small side and I don't know how you connect your D4 subs since the cxa amp you have is only 2 ohm stable. On the E1500.1 it is a sound quality amp, you only have some daily subs, so probably it's abilities won't benefit you at all, to me you need more power, for example a skar rp-2000.1d which is only about $220 will move those subs like you want.