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The above pic is Ohms law pie chart.

I will assume that you want to calculate for your system @ idle:

E = Volts on your batteries @ idle

P = Total RMS watts coming out of your amps

I = Alternator output in amps @ idle

R = Resistance in ohms between the power source & the destination

When you said you ran 5000 watts RMS for 15 minutes & the lowest your voltage dropped was 13.6, I can believe that with 3 D3100's. But if you would have played it for another 15 minutes, your voltage would continue to drop. An alternator putting out 150 amps cannot efficiently charge 3 huge D3100 batteries while they are being used to power an amplifier putting out 5000 watts. I'm not telling you that you can't hook up several batteries with 1 alt & play loud music. All I am saying is that your charging system (alternator) is not designed to handle that load, will not effeciently charge your batteries & if you play your stereo for more than a few minutes @ a time full tilt, you will damage something.

I don't know the specs on your amps, but my T3K's need 14.4 constant to run properly. anything below that & you are asking for trouble. Almost everyone in the car audio is "banging on a budget". Out of 100 systems out there, maybe 1 or 2 is actually done correctly. Don't get it confused, burping a system & playing music @ full tilt for an hour are totally different.

Ohms law isn't something that I just made up, it's fact.

basebalz13, I have noticed you have been posting some stuff about burning up a ton of alternators.

If you want to get 5000 watts out of your amps with no power problems & not burn up any alts, you will need 347.22 amps @ 14.4 volts for your shit to work properly & not blow up. Also that 347.22 amps does not include the amperage needed to run your car, that's probably another 60 amps or so. Adding batteries is only a bandaid not a true fix. If you have an adequate charging system putting out the correct # of amps, you don't need a bunch of batteries.

I understand that not everyone can run quad alts. In those cases, batteries are the only alternative, but that doesn't make it right. There are some batteries out there that are specifically designed to work like a capacitor & release energy very quickly. Kinetik & battcap are some top brands. The bottom line is if you have the option of 300 + amps worth of alts or 3 batteries, go with the alts.

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Jared Nixon  A.K.A. Jsmoke

My Car Stereo Website: 3rd Coast Customs

My Fishing Website: BigLake411.com

Add me as a friend: Myspace

Download: Check out my Audio Calculations Spreadsheet (Microsoft Excel)

ATTENTION ALL SMD MEMBERS: Do not under any circumstance buy anything from Chassistech! They do not stand behind their products & their customer service is horrible. They do not actually manufacture lowering springs, they drop ship them from Spring Tech. Chasistech.com also does business as Airbagit.com, Streetridepro.com & Truckinsuspension.com. They are all the same company! Do not trust these bastards! Their products are cheap & more often than not, you don't get what you actually order in the first place! YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!

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I understand that not everyone can run quad alts. In those cases, batteries are the only alternative, but that doesn't make it right. There are some batteries out there that are specifically designed to work like a capacitor & release energy very quickly. Kinetik & battcap are some top brands. The bottom line is if you have the option of 300 + amps worth of alts or 3 batteries, go with the alts.

Complete waste of money imo, especially in the long term. But if you can afford it why not...

im talking about a multiple alt situation btw

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91' Jeep Cherokee - The Heep

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Complete waste of money imo, especially in the long term. But if you can afford it why not...

im talking about a multiple alt situation btw

Actually its not a waste of money. if your gonna buy a nice system, pay for a nice alt setup as well so your system is less likely to be damaged

DD M4


Rockford Fosgate P500-4


SoundQubed HDC415 w carbon fiber cap


2 Rockford Fosagate T1675-S


XS Power D3400 Under Hood


XS Power D5100 in rear


Michael Singer 200A Alt


Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/153901-2012-veloster-update-842013-wall-build-4-15s/

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New gear:

Pioneer Premeir Avic F90BT

Kicker KS 5.25" coax in dash

Kicker SS 6" mids in doors

2 pairs of Kicker SS 6.5" Components

Kicker ZX 850.4

Kicker ZX 2500.1

Kicker Solo X 12 D4

Optima yellow top under hood

Kinetik HC800 in cab

Here are a few pics of the box & the CNC machine that cut it out!

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Gotta love a CNC machine!

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Jared Nixon  A.K.A. Jsmoke

My Car Stereo Website: 3rd Coast Customs

My Fishing Website: BigLake411.com

Add me as a friend: Myspace

Download: Check out my Audio Calculations Spreadsheet (Microsoft Excel)

ATTENTION ALL SMD MEMBERS: Do not under any circumstance buy anything from Chassistech! They do not stand behind their products & their customer service is horrible. They do not actually manufacture lowering springs, they drop ship them from Spring Tech. Chasistech.com also does business as Airbagit.com, Streetridepro.com & Truckinsuspension.com. They are all the same company! Do not trust these bastards! Their products are cheap & more often than not, you don't get what you actually order in the first place! YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!

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Posted Image

The above pic is Ohms law pie chart.

I will assume that you want to calculate for your system @ idle:

E = Volts on your batteries @ idle

P = Total RMS watts coming out of your amps

I = Alternator output in amps @ idle

R = Resistance in ohms between the power source & the destination

When you said you ran 5000 watts RMS for 15 minutes & the lowest your voltage dropped was 13.6, I can believe that with 3 D3100's. But if you would have played it for another 15 minutes, your voltage would continue to drop. An alternator putting out 150 amps cannot efficiently charge 3 huge D3100 batteries while they are being used to power an amplifier putting out 5000 watts. I'm not telling you that you can't hook up several batteries with 1 alt & play loud music. All I am saying is that your charging system (alternator) is not designed to handle that load, will not effeciently charge your batteries & if you play your stereo for more than a few minutes @ a time full tilt, you will damage something.

I don't know the specs on your amps, but my T3K's need 14.4 constant to run properly. anything below that & you are asking for trouble. Almost everyone in the car audio is "banging on a budget". Out of 100 systems out there, maybe 1 or 2 is actually done correctly. Don't get it confused, burping a system & playing music @ full tilt for an hour are totally different.

Ohms law isn't something that I just made up, it's fact.

basebalz13, I have noticed you have been posting some stuff about burning up a ton of alternators.

If you want to get 5000 watts out of your amps with no power problems & not burn up any alts, you will need 347.22 amps @ 14.4 volts for your shit to work properly & not blow up. Also that 347.22 amps does not include the amperage needed to run your car, that's probably another 60 amps or so. Adding batteries is only a bandaid not a true fix. If you have an adequate charging system putting out the correct # of amps, you don't need a bunch of batteries.

I understand that not everyone can run quad alts. In those cases, batteries are the only alternative, but that doesn't make it right. There are some batteries out there that are specifically designed to work like a capacitor & release energy very quickly. Kinetik & battcap are some top brands. The bottom line is if you have the option of 300 + amps worth of alts or 3 batteries, go with the alts.

lol maybe you should of read my other thread that you posted before posting :)

it was bad alternators that continued to fail because of the alternator,

everyone thats knows what they are doing knows how to control the volume knob,

also you never see full output on the amp during daily bangin, consider imp rise and music never hits full output(well rarely)

yes you keep statin "ohms law" lol i know ohms law very well in college for electircal engineering so i THINK i know what im doing :)

if you dont feel safe runnin that much power then maybe car audio isnt something for you?

also who plays full tilt at idle? your just asking to get a ticket because 90% of your average driving time is spent at idle

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lol maybe you should of read my other thread that you posted before posting :)

it was bad alternators that continued to fail because of the alternator,

everyone thats knows what they are doing knows how to control the volume knob,

also you never see full output on the amp during daily bangin, consider imp rise and music never hits full output(well rarely)

yes you keep statin "ohms law" lol i know ohms law very well in college for electircal engineering so i THINK i know what im doing :)

if you dont feel safe runnin that much power then maybe car audio isnt something for you?

also who plays full tilt at idle? your just asking to get a ticket because 90% of your average driving time is spent at idle

maybe where you live
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Well we got the back wall & roof covered with dynamat. We installed the Pioneer premier F90BT & ran RCA's, speaker wires & nav antenna. Hopefully we will get the bos put together tomorrow.

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dj2q.jpg

Jared Nixon  A.K.A. Jsmoke

My Car Stereo Website: 3rd Coast Customs

My Fishing Website: BigLake411.com

Add me as a friend: Myspace

Download: Check out my Audio Calculations Spreadsheet (Microsoft Excel)

ATTENTION ALL SMD MEMBERS: Do not under any circumstance buy anything from Chassistech! They do not stand behind their products & their customer service is horrible. They do not actually manufacture lowering springs, they drop ship them from Spring Tech. Chasistech.com also does business as Airbagit.com, Streetridepro.com & Truckinsuspension.com. They are all the same company! Do not trust these bastards! Their products are cheap & more often than not, you don't get what you actually order in the first place! YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!

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