Car Audio 101 - The Big 3 Upgrade

[Maxxsonics-Mike]

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So you've decided to upgrade your car stereo system? A great deal of research and planning should go into this purchase since there is a lot to consider. Do you desire a nice upgrade of your factory speakers, are you looking for a Sound Quality overall of speakers, subwoofers and amplifiers, or are you designing a vision-blurring SPL machine? It is important to make a list of exactly what you are looking to replace or add to your audio system so that you can prepare your electrical system for the investment to come.

Many people do not realize that their vehicles factory electrical system was not designed for aftermarket audio equipment. In fact, most factory electrical systems can only handle an audio system of 600 to 1200 watts. The lower end of the scale being the smaller vehicles and most foreign rides, and the upper end being large trucks and sport utility vehicles. As you increase demand, you need to look at upgrading your battery, alternator and most importantly your Big 3.

THE BIG 3

The Big 3 consists of upgrading three wires under the hood of your vehicle. You can completely replace the three wires detailed below, or simply add additional wires to existing factory wires, the choice is yours. The existing factory wires are generally 8 gauge or smaller and are not designed for the high current demands of an aftermarket audio system. It is recommended that you use a nice insulated 0 gauge wire so that you only have to do this series of upgraded once.

The first of the Big 3 is the positive charging wire from your alternator to your battery positive. This wire must be fused within 12 of the positive battery terminal connection. The fuse value should be equivalent to the maximum amperage your wire can handle, which is based on the size and distance of the wire. If you have an upgraded, high output, alternator you will remove your factory alternator charge wire altogether and use the replacement described above.

The second upgrade for the Big 3 is the engine ground to chassis or in some cases, engine ground to battery negative. This is extremely important because this ground is also what ties the alternator ground, through the engine block, to the vehicle chassis. For this step, you want to add your 0 gauge ground to the existing ground. Just clean the area thoroughly and secure the two grounds using the same bolts and locations if possible.

The final upgrade for the Big 3 is the ground wire from battery negative to chassis. If you do not have access to the frame of the vehicle, dont settle for a piece of sheet metal under the hood, but rather locate the strut tower, remove a nut from the thread, sand all paint and debris, connect the 0 gauge ground using a ring terminal on the thread and tighten the nut down. This strut thread has direct access to the vehicle frame and will provide far less resistance than using sheet metal and relying on spot welds. Leave the factory ground in place and clean any dirt, rust or debris from this connection using sandpaper or a stiff wire brush. Through these three steps, you have successfully made huge progress in improving the electrical systems performance, decreased resistance, and enhanced the ability to supply power to your aftermarket audio system.

[Cr@sh]

Good post Mike, well explained!

[Torres]

i like those battery terminals. what kind are they?

[thehoe92]

op your channel is the best to search around on.

so many slammin systems http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/hairtrick.gif

[enemyofsilence]

nice vid mike! it will help those who need it http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/hairtrick.gif

[Maxxsonics-Mike]

i like those battery terminals. what kind are they?

Hooker Audio. Really nice taps. All wiring and connections used in this vid are Hooker Audio.

[Maxxsonics-Mike]

Thanks thehoe92 and enemyofsilence.

[JZeFF]

Awesome video man!

quick question... main battery is under the back seat (stock location)

Is it really going to be as big of a pain to do the Big 3 as i think it is?... lol

[Maxxsonics-Mike]

That doesn't sound fun. BUT, your BIG 3 would mean even more of a difference to you than someone with their batt under the hood since you have a longer distance for the charge wire etc.

The Scion xB was the easiest Big 3 I have ever done. My 96 Neon was tough for me because the alt was impossible to get to. Under the car and had to remove a tire to access it. LOL

Just give yourself a day to do it and your equipment (investments) will be thankful.

[R_Mac_1]

My battery is under the back seat as well. So, you should fuse the alt. to battery + wire within 12 inches of the batt, or 12 inches of the alt? I was going to do it closer to the alt. but it looks like you did it closer to the battery in your video.

By the way, when it said "do not loose the factory nut" when you unscrewed the nut on your alt. in the video, it should say "lose" not "loose". If you want it to look a bit more professional.