David

Isnt the Dd 9510 a 10" sub?? if it is I would say the solo x 18 kills it. now I dont know much about the DD Subz but people are having good results with them, so maybee thats something to look into. and if you have 1300 dollars you can get 2 BTL 18's and still have some money left over, yea they havent proven much yet, but someone has to be the guinea pig. lol I havent counted out the RE MT's yet, Im still debating

local shop quoted me 3grand for the box i did in my mustang, so yea thats abit to cheap.

microsoft.com

anyone else using this? its still in beta, beta 3. I like it but definitly makes the things funky, text's are now blurry for some reason, it even affects the lay-out on the main page of this site, and a few others I have viewed( cant give up my porn sites ) if your using this, can you confime that text's on the forum has become abit blurry also ROE's Forum does it too, so I know it's not my webdesigns skills being imcompetetent LOL David

hmmm just what are you guys upto????

Cool, Im glad it helped someone out besides myself, it was just my way of trying to get louder, I thank my good bro meade, because all but the sealed test's where his suggestions.

ya my wife told me i couldnt lower the Tahoe or take up the cargo area with woofers.... LOL LOL LOL yea mine wasnt to thrilled about what I did to the mustang, but the couch wasnt too bad

since 18's hit the lows better than a smaller sub what does it lack vs a smaller sub? IMHO A smaller sub can, (Depending on conditions) have a better reaction / recover time then a larger sub. You can get a tighter sound with a smaller sub. A smaller sub can give you more of a punch. I would agree with that. I cant say one is better than the other, its all listner prefrence.

yea that was alil bit on the extreme side, but It sounded fantastic and got pretty loud for thee amount power I gave it. on glass work, practice makes perfect. before I did that I had only done it one other time and that was the box that had the 2 L7 12's in it, I need more practice thats for sure, I never made anything that was suppose to be pretty, I will be doing some door panels for my van soon so we'll see how that goes.

I used a couple of differrent configs in my mustang. L7 12's First I did sealed firing into the middle of the trunk with 2 L7 12's= very loud (never metered it) Next I tried sealed under the package tray(rear deck) firing into the trunk towards the tail lights, not as loud but sounded cleaner.(agian never metered it) Then I built a box ported it through the rear deck subz firing towards the tail lights. seemed quiter than sealed but much better sq (metered a 133.1 bassrace. burped a 134.9 @37hz) Then I glassed in a box that fired into the cabin ported through the rear deck, completely sealed off the cabin from the trunk. never metered it because I killed the subz LOL but it was REAL FREAKING loud with a modded BD1501 pushing I mean hands down the loudest setup yet. my good friend told me repeatedly turn it down or Im gonna puke. Then I upgraded Subz to 2 SoundStream SPLX154's rebuilt the box but using the same method ported through the rear deck and sealed from the cabin and it did 143.3 burp, 141,1 bassrace, was extremely violent on the lows. did 138.3 @ 28hz (with around 600 watts on each sub) So from my experience it was way louder cabin firing port and sub sealed from the trunk, if you can do this, this will net you much more loudness

18's pound the low bass better than a smaller sub. so 18>15>12>10, on the low's

good luck, I glassed a 00 GT and it was a pita you can get about 12 cubes if you use the whole trunk and spare tire well. here is a link to look at what I did http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e202/SacMustang/

Well, I have nothing against RE, I know what the MT can do I have heard them in person and absolutly LOVED getting my head blown back by Steve's hoe. I got nothin but Respect for RE, and I may end up running them still, I havent decided agianst them at all. The Atomic's are a great sub as well, I have never heard them play music like the RE MT's but I have seen them Burp a 161.1 while taking a shit load of power in a SS 1-2 car. both subz are just a tad out of my price range, But I havent decided agianst them, Im just looking at all of my options before I spend some serious cash on some subs

I have been talking to them, I really like the way they took time out of there day to answer all of my questions. the more I hear about the product and how they can make the sub fit my needs the more I really want to try them, they are brand new to the market, but the people behind the company are not new to making subz which nullifies some of my fears on buying a new product. for the price they win hands down, as for performance no one will know untill we see them in a vehicle. and Im seriously thinking about giving them a shot. I can get 2 of thier 18's custom made to fit my needs for $1018 shipped to my door. thats cheaper than both other companies I have been looking at. what to do, what to do, I have time to figure it out before my rebuild starts as I wont be rebuilding anything untill after the west coast finally, but I have to say these subz have really piqued my interest.

looks good.

my van will be next HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAlmao

the florida finals are comming up goto that, theyw ill be using the T/L meter, there are lots of DbDrag events in florida, you just have to find them on the calendar http://www.termpro.com/dbdrag/ David

Currrently Im on a mission to find some new subz for next season. I'm looking For 18's. Whatever I choose needs to be able to handle around 4kw on music so far my search has led me to the RE MT 18, I know for a fact that they will handle 4kw on music as I have seen it in person in Steve's Tahoe, now we all know they are not designed for music but Steve doesnt have Issues with them. I found a new company that makes some impressive looking subz http://www.ficaraudio.com/ they say on the site 2kw RMS but every sub is custom made to the customers needs you can get them made to handle more power and they intrigue me. this is the description for the sub im looking at the BTL18 I have also been looking at the Atomic APXx 18. so I have some options, so what do you guys think?? would like to hear some of your opinions

ahhh very good question. probably would be better to do it closer to the alt, since it is making the power for the batt to charge.

on a air-conditioning line you would silver solder the lines, because you need the joints to stand upto good amounts of pressure and the bead you lay over the joint is actually 5% Real silver and95% silver alloy (no flux needed, its basic brazing) "Sweating" is the same thing as Soldering. lets see if I can explian it. ( Im a PipeFitter I work with copper alot!) Soldering actually uses heat and a chemical reaction to make it work. applying heat to the flux creates a reaction, the acid in the flux when heated up reacts with oxygen. when soldering pipe you apply flux to the inside of the joint, apply heat and solder, when the acid reaches a certin tempature it will literly try and pull in more oxygen into the joint so it can burn, thus creating a vacum. while applying the heat to the copper you let the copper melt the solder and the vaccum created by the flux trying to get more oxygen will pull the solder into the joint. now electronics solder is abit differrent, it has flux allready in the solder, so how does it work?? very similar actually, depending on what you use as your heat source (IRON, pencil tourch, and so on) on a ring terminal like we use for Car audio, I heat the terminal and wire up being carefull not to melt my insulation jacket, then I touch the solder to the wire if it melts I keep adding more while giving it a little more heat close to the insulation jacket to "pull" the solder downa s far as I can. the solder because of the reaction of the flux to heat will follow the heat. To pull a properly soldered terminal apart you would have to be put at least 150#'s psi on the ring and the wire at the same time, and I dont see that happening in the car audio world unless the wire got tangled in the Engine or Driveline all right class dismissed

Woooo hoooo you are a [glow=red,2,300]MADMAN[/glow], that is looking FANTASTIC!!!!!

The pictures dont do it justice, you should see it in person its just jaw dropping.and it sounds Sooooooo Fn awesome, the lows are just teeth rattling. I didnt wanna get out after sitting in it.

those RE amps are Sexxxxxxxxxxxxy nice job on the build, I will tell you from experience SEAL that fugger offf and you will ;D ;D

Congrats now get a JOB if ya can goto college if not get off your lazy ass and get a job hahahahaha

My homie had a 300z with a Twin-Turbo setup, a 54mm turbo for the low rpms, then the 76mm turbo kicked in at higher Rpms now it deffinitly had the twinz but I wasnt all that convinced that it worked like he said, it was fast as hell but it had turbo-lag something fierce at times.