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Showing results for tags 'tahoe'.
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Hey guys I am looking to start a new build in my 2008 Tahoe. I am set on 4 SA 15's. I was wondering if anyone could lead me in the right direction to get some ideas for an enclosure. I will have the whole trunk to work with. (Behind the rear passenger seat, third row has been removed) Any replies are appreciated !
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Finally finished the enclosure. 2 Sundown X 15s on a sundown SAZ-3000d. Running at 1 ohm. Box is tuned to 32 hz. Running 4 neo pro 6.5 in the doors and 4 sundown super tweeters. Sounds awesome!
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Hey guys, I am new to this forum and would appreciate all the feedback I can get! Decided to go with sundown because of all the positive reviews and great community! Anyways I want to build something that will give me the bump I am looking for in my daily driver. I had 2 15 kicker l7s previously with rated rms. This will be for a 2012 chevy Tahoe with alot of room to work with. After tons of research I have decided I really like the X series. I am thinking about ordering 2 x15's with an either sundown4000.1 or the skar 4500.1 (little cheaper) (student loan life) and building a custom ported box to spec. Now with it tuned correctly and installed correctly, do you guys recommend upgrading electrical for this set up? All feedback is greatly appreciated, and suggestions are welcomed.
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So I happened upon this clean blue beauty and for a price of almost half of all the others of similar year and mileage, I snatched it up. My build plans with it are to move my current system from the explorer into this since i will no longer own the explorer in a short time. The equipment being: HU- Pioneer DEH-80PRS Subs- Two SoundQubed HDS312D2's Amps- SoundQubed Q1-3500.1; AudioQue 90.4 Mids & Highs- CDT CL61A Wires- All Sky High 1/0, RCA's, 12ga speaker wire Power- Haven't decided on an alt yet, gotta contact singer, see what he's got. I don't think I'll go with anything over 300A on the alt. I'll have a D3400 under the hood, and I've got a D4700 i had bought for a cruze that I'll keep by the amps. Hopefully I can get started on transferring it all this weekend. I've got duty saturday so i'll have all day sunday to knock it out. The only things that need bought are the D3400 and the alt. I'll post pictures as i go through the install. edit: fixed the pictures
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First time posting in this thread. Looking for a reliable hard pounding card audio system for around $1k. It is for a chevy Tahoe. So far I am considering getting a pair of Sundown Audio 12" 750W Dual 4-Ohm with the sundown audio 1500.1 or going with the skar audio 2000.1 monoblock (200$ cheaper). Will custom build the box accordingly and have a solid aftermarket head unit. Does this sound like a good set up for someone looking to get some extra bass from using a pair of L7s in the past?
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Hey everybody. Within the next year I'm looking to put a system in my 2000 Chevy Tahoe. I originally planned on doing two Rockford Fosgate T2 12s and a T2500. Well i have been looking around quite a lot and I've become interested in Sundown Audio. Does anyone have any reviews on their x12 dual 2 subwoofer and the SAZ-5000D Amplifier? Also my budget is about 700-900 for subwoofers, and somewhere under the 2,000 range for the amp. So all suggestions are appreciated and taken seriously. But i would like to go with anything above 2500 watts. Any other Companies i should be taking seriously, companies with good pricing? (rockford seems to charge a lot just for their name) P.s Again, if you have any other ideas, please feel free to post them Thankyou, Jon
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Here's Rico's 2005 Hoe with an all Skar Audio setup. It ain't done yet but it's playing so, here she is.... Equipment List: Pioneer AVH-X2700BT double din 2 - Skar Audio SK-4500.1 bass amp (only one in now) 2 - Skar Audio SK-125.4 Mid Amps 1 - Skar Audio RP-75.4 tweeter amp 4 - Skar Audio ZVX-15" subs 4 - Skar Audio PAX 8" Neo Mids 4 - Skar Audio PAX 6.5" Neo Mids 2 - Skar Audio VXT-1 bullet tweets 2 - Skar Audio SPX 1" dome tweets 1 - Audiocontrol Matrix signal processor Mas db Link Buzzmatt sound deadener 2 - 250A HO Alternators 2 - Fucking huge ass D4 wet batteries.... don't know the brand, along with the underhood battery SHCA wiring Crimestopper SP-502 remote start/alarm/keyless entry I don't know what the fuck happened to all the build pics but here are a few and, some video. Next stage is doing rear door panels, adding a second 4500 and a floating tablet mount in the console. Some wirez. Big ass batteries... Amp rack... Door panels in prime.... New tie... Alternators... Quarter wave t-line tuned to 34Hz... Dat ghost logo.... Door panels based and cleared.... Tie matches the suit.... Subz in box in truck. Shit's heavy... Loading the doors.... Loaded... New lights and of course, my logo.... Team No Regrets baby!!! Video...
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- skar audio
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I merged 2 threads and things got a little screwed up lol So I added Johns first post to his right here : This is the official thread for the Tahoe build off we hope you enjoy these builds as much as we do! So we are doing a little friendly competition between Sky High and DC Audio. A few things fell into place and we ended up having GM SUVS dropped off at the same time so we decided to make some fun out of it. Rusty, his team, and DC Audios build will consist of the DC Audio Yukon 4 M1 LVL 6 18s with the aluminum baskets. 4 DC Audio 5Ks and a B pillar wall; just to name a few things. The Sky High's Tahoe will have 6 Lvl 6 m2 18s with aluminum cone and 4 DC 10ks in a B pillar wall. Rusty and I (Jon) will be both posting pics along the road to crushing every other Tahoe on the west coast. DC Audio and Sky High have a pretty good and close knit relationship if you guys did not know. This is a friendly build and we are only out to have fun and get some recognition out there for the amazing products going into the builds. So please enjoy the builds and your input is greatly appreciated. See you at Lake County Car Audio with both these builds for the finale!! And Mine starts here - So Alot of you might remember the DC Yukon, Well its at the shop and were going to wall it. Not 100% sure what the plan is but for right now I just removed everything so i can start to measure out the shell. its got for gear (well before I took it all out) (2) 175.4 (4) 5.0 (4) M1 Lv6's (2) Alts (2) Strong Stinger 2150's, The rest of the 2150s are dead and will need to be replaced. The Yukon sat for a while and the battery's are now toast So Im not sure if it will go flat wall, clam shell, 4th order, 6th order. Part of it will depend on the square footage we end up with. On with pics of my progress today
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Hey whats up everyone? I am looking to have everything for my big 3 ordered by this coming Wednesday and I was wondering if someone might be able to help me out with about the amount I need to order, what kind of ring terminals, help between 3 diff brands, and whether or not I should replace the stock wires or just add on to the stock wiring. I have read the "Big 3 Tutorial" over and over to make sure I am familiar with the process. Any help is really appreciated on this one. I am stuck deciding between Rockford 1/0, Tsunami 1/0, and Knukonceptz 1/0. Anyone have any preferences on these? I am going ot have to order my wire because the shops here in Rocky Mount just carry Q Power CCA 1/0. I am not a big fan of CCA or the performance of Q Power wire. Do you think I should go with one solid color under the hood or go "red for +" and "blk for -"? Maybe just blue Knu wire on the whole Big 3? I am guessing around 7ft for my batt-engine ground, 5ft for alt-batt +, and 6ft to run from batt-starter. I will post some pics below. The way the wiring came from the factory the positive from the Alt to the batt is in the same terminal (connector) as my positive wire running to my starter so would I have to replace both of these? How many feet would ya'll suggest I order and would 6 ring terminals be enough? I am planning on soldering the connections and not crimping them. Would ya'll suggest pure copper ring terminals? Also would yall suggest replacing the wire that stretches from the battery to my fuse block under the hood? Sorry for the nooby questions but money is kinda tight and I just want to make sure I order the right stuff and not waste any money. Thanks for any help also ya'll Best Regards, -James Alt to batt + lead: Back of Batt: Going to my engine block ground: The positive wire from the Alt and the Positive wire going to the starter are connected in one terminal: Overview: