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Found 49 results

  2. So I happened upon this clean blue beauty and for a price of almost half of all the others of similar year and mileage, I snatched it up. My build plans with it are to move my current system from the explorer into this since i will no longer own the explorer in a short time. The equipment being: HU- Pioneer DEH-80PRS Subs- Two SoundQubed HDS312D2's Amps- SoundQubed Q1-3500.1; AudioQue 90.4 Mids & Highs- CDT CL61A Wires- All Sky High 1/0, RCA's, 12ga speaker wire Power- Haven't decided on an alt yet, gotta contact singer, see what he's got. I don't think I'll go with anything over 300A on the alt. I'll have a D3400 under the hood, and I've got a D4700 i had bought for a cruze that I'll keep by the amps. Hopefully I can get started on transferring it all this weekend. I've got duty saturday so i'll have all day sunday to knock it out. The only things that need bought are the D3400 and the alt. I'll post pictures as i go through the install. edit: fixed the pictures
  3. Finally finished the enclosure. 2 Sundown X 15s on a sundown SAZ-3000d. Running at 1 ohm. Box is tuned to 32 hz. Running 4 neo pro 6.5 in the doors and 4 sundown super tweeters. Sounds awesome!
  4. First time actually posting a build log but this year, I guess I will. I have done This will be the 3rd build in this Tahoe and I'm designing a C pillar wall with my wife (who actually has a ton of creative input.) I wish I could post some pictures!! First I am going to log a tear down of my initial build. This weekend I will start the tear down .
  5. Equipment: Sound: (4) Custom 18s (6) Supertweeters (4) 10in midrange (4) Tweeters (In the headliner) (4) 6.5in midwoofers (2) 5500s (1) 1100.4 (1) 550.2 (1) 600.6 Electrical: 6 Group 31s Quad alternator Bracket Rebuilt 250amp alt (3) 370 amp alternators SMD Temp and fan controller Suspension: Hellwig airbags Gabriel Airshocks Big Brake Kit, forgot brand YT:
  6. Recently I cracked the hinge that connects the glass to the rear gate on my 04 tahoe. I never open the glass opening, so I'm exploring my options on making the hatch one solid piece. my current idea is to silicone around the rubber gasket and fill in the massive void between the glass and the actual hatch with expanding foam. has anyone here sealed up the back window on a tahoe? if so, how did you do it, what did you use? any tips on what to do/what not to do? any problems you encountered? i apologize in advance if this is already a topic. im new to this site and forums in general. I tried searching and i cant come up with an answer. Thanks!
  7. Got my hoe coming along nicely
  8. I merged 2 threads and things got a little screwed up lol So I added Johns first post to his right here : This is the official thread for the Tahoe build off we hope you enjoy these builds as much as we do! So we are doing a little friendly competition between Sky High and DC Audio. A few things fell into place and we ended up having GM SUVS dropped off at the same time so we decided to make some fun out of it. Rusty, his team, and DC Audios build will consist of the DC Audio Yukon 4 M1 LVL 6 18s with the aluminum baskets. 4 DC Audio 5Ks and a B pillar wall; just to name a few things. The Sky High's Tahoe will have 6 Lvl 6 m2 18s with aluminum cone and 4 DC 10ks in a B pillar wall. Rusty and I (Jon) will be both posting pics along the road to crushing every other Tahoe on the west coast. DC Audio and Sky High have a pretty good and close knit relationship if you guys did not know. This is a friendly build and we are only out to have fun and get some recognition out there for the amazing products going into the builds. So please enjoy the builds and your input is greatly appreciated. See you at Lake County Car Audio with both these builds for the finale!! And Mine starts here - So Alot of you might remember the DC Yukon, Well its at the shop and were going to wall it. Not 100% sure what the plan is but for right now I just removed everything so i can start to measure out the shell. its got for gear (well before I took it all out) (2) 175.4 (4) 5.0 (4) M1 Lv6's (2) Alts (2) Strong Stinger 2150's, The rest of the 2150s are dead and will need to be replaced. The Yukon sat for a while and the battery's are now toast So Im not sure if it will go flat wall, clam shell, 4th order, 6th order. Part of it will depend on the square footage we end up with. On with pics of my progress today
  9. Would like help . Need a box design for 3 sp4 18s dual 2 On a asdssa warlord 5k I have 49 width Can go 22 or 23 height 42 depth puts me about 2 inch for back gate 38 puts me 6 inch away from bake gate Never built a box so I need good plane to work with can pay if need it.
  10. Looking for some advice on setting up a good front stage in my 12 Tahoe. This is what I have to work with so far: HU: Pioneer 4100 NEX Front: Rockford Fosgate T2652S comps in Q-Logic kick panels (love to build my own but no skills/time right now) Back Door for rear fill: Alpine SPR-60 coax Subs: 2 x Alpine Type R 12" SWR-12D4 Front/Back amp: Alpine PDX F4 Sub Amp: Alpine PDX-M12 Concerned that the kick panel solution will leave a hole in the mid-bass range due to the lack of air volume behind the Q-logic Kick panels. Should I add some dedicated mid-base to the front doors such as RF PPS4-6 and use a dedicated active crossover with bandpass capability (such as Audiocontrol 6XS) to amp the fronts separately. Believe I need another amp to do this though. Thoughts? Also, truck will have damper and Luxury liner installed on all doors and floors to quiet reduce resonance and road noise. Thanks! Bandit400
  11. Frank Seaton-Gilford

    Audiopipe TXX-BD3 12 (2)

  12. darryl2727

    sp4 18s box help

    49 wide 20 high 36 deep need help with box and port area
  13. I have had a love of car audio ever since high school when i had my first real subs, a pair of Blue Thunder 12's. Because of this love i have spent umpteen hours reading magazines, books and on forums just like this reading and learning all I can. Over the years i have designed and built alot of decent stereo systems for friends and family but never have i had the chance to build myself that cranking stereo system i always wanted. Until now. My build will be a never ending learning process with my end goal to have a vehicle that every time i am in it and i hear and feel the bass it puts a grin on my face. I also think it would be cool to compete just to meet people with the same passion i have and pick their brains. So i was in the market for a new ride to build up and i have always liked Tahoes so i have been watching the Canadian Gov Auction for a deal on an ex RCMP one. Well i found one bid 6 grand and won.. here she is a 2009 Special Services Tahoe for 6 grand.. It needed some tlc and a center console (which i bough a silverados fold down jump seat instead). The first thing i did after i picked it up was pull over a block away from the compound and smake a fat joint to christen it. Now since i had the vehicle i could go about getting all the gear i wanted... Deck - Pioneer avic8000-nex and reverse camera Processor- Arc Audio PS8 Amps- Arc Audio KS 2500.1, Arc Audio XDI v2 1200.6 Front Stage - CDT audio ES- 06 6.5" mids, ES- 03MB 3" mids and ES- 010 26mm silk dome tweeters Subs - 2 x Sundown Audio 12" Z v.4 D1 Batteries - 2 x Kinetic HC 1800 Alternator - Singer 270 amp Alternator Sound Deadening - Aprox 210 square feet of dynamat extreme Deck: Amps and Processor: Front Stage: Subs: Batteries: Power Wires : Speaker Wire: Now a couple things all my pics are taken with my iphone and i am terrible at remembering to take pics So we begin the fun part to follow....
  14. Hi everyone I'm New to the forum and need help with designing a new box for my Tahoe. My current setup is a folded or fluted horn with 2 12 dvc 2ohm Alpine type r. Amp is a Kicker cx1200.1 running @ 2 ohm bridged. I recently blew 1 of my subs and since the box is a horn enclosure and i cant access my subs easily it stime to go bigger. So I'm thinking 2 type r 15 dvc 2ohm same amp if it will work. I have done the big 3 or 4 kit, Dual batteries with a 270 amp alt. My dimensions for this enclosure are 48 inches wide, 38 inches deep and 20 inches high so i dont go above the windows so i can trim it out
  15. Here's a link to my Tahoe pics (Wall Design thanks to Robin Butler!) The ISSUE that I'm having is the company that I had build my Wall did NOT "seal it off" properly at all. My Truck is getting a LOT of air movement to the REAR (which shouldn't happen at all...), and as Robin Butler has told me, I'm losing quite a bit of pressure in the front due to this issue. Also I realized they left my entire Roof Panel up on the Tahoe, which I thought was supposed to be removed and put MDF and Spray Foam or something up... I'm at a loss of SOUND QUALITY more or less. Yeah, 4 18's in a 4th is smashing pretty hard, BUT with panels still up that frankly should've been taken out I don't feel that I have a system that is both Clean and Loud. Still rattling when loud. Yes, the entire truck is 2-layers sound deadened with Damplifier Pro and Alpha Damp... ** I'd like to know how I can remove the Headliner off the Roof and fill it in with MDF or whatever and connect it to the wall, as well as Fill in gaps in the Front / Sides / Rear of the Wall so there is absolutely NO air leaks whatsoever. Id like the front of the interior (wall, panels, dash, etc) colored somehow too. Robin mentioned using Vinyl for that. Of course I also realize I need Fiberglassed door panels too. Whatever it takes to get a much more solid sound and clarity while still being loud as heck! - Any Advice is greatly appreciated, thanks guys!
  16. sicrides6

    Tahoe wall

    anyone ever built a wall behind the rear seat of a 96-99 4 door tahoe . Trying to figure if its possible to to do a proper wall in the rear with either 4,6, or 8 15s if any one knows if this is possible please chime in I'm pretty certain that a 4 sub wall can be achieved behind the rear seat but not sure about six or eight . Subs of choice are soundqubed hds315
  17. Some pics of the dash I built for my SMD meters and RF 3sixty.3 remote. CHECK OUT THE VIDEO HERE: Planning it out... Metra Double DIN dash kit and Factory lower piece. Then I molded a piece of acrylic to make it 1 piece. Everything molded from the backside... CA Gel FTW!!! Mock up after I body worked it. 3 coats of a automotive 2K primer All DONE!!! The 2 billet buttons are for the amps. 1 for the Sub amp and 1 for the mid/high amp. I got them from here:
  18. Hey everyone, this is my first post to SMD, so bare with me as it might be a little sloppy. But right now I am trying to build a ported box for my 2 Alpine SWR-12D2. I've lost so much sleep reading about porting because I really don't want to go through the time, effort, and wood to have a crappy ported box come out. As of right now I have them in a custom built divided chamber sealed box with 1.76 cubic feet per sub in the back of my 03 Chevy Tahoe. I've done all the research I can and I have some ideas in mind for a build. I read up on port area, port tuning, cuffing, you name it. I just would love a second opinion. (Keep in mind thsee specs are for only half of the box with one woofer, as the other side will be mirrored, I just did this to save some time and math) Enclosure 1: Box Dimensions H:15" W:25" D:20" Port Dimensions H:13.5" W:3" L:37" Box Stats Gross Vol: 3.40 ft3 Port Vol: 1.06 ft3 Physical Port L: 33.25" Port Bends: Yes Port Area Range: 27-36 in2 Port Area: 40.50 in Port Area Per Foot: 18.08 in Net Vol: 2.24 ft3 Tuning Freq: 33.36hz Enclosure 2 Box Dimensions H:15" W:25" D:19" Port Dimensions H:13.5" W:2.5" L:28" Box Stats: Gross Vol: 3.21 ft3 Port Vol: .70 ft3 Physical Port L: 24.75" Port Bends: Yes Port Area Range: 29-39 in2 Port Area: 33.75 in2 Port Area Per Foot: 14 in2 Net Vol: 2.41 ft3 Tuning Freq: 33.28hz Thanks for any feedback you might have! Open to ANY ideas!
  19. All, I am in the early planning stages of walling my Tahoe right behind the B Pillar so I can still have the leg room I need to drive (Will be my daily driver). It will be 4 18s on 12K, details are ever-changing currently since this is very early on in the project, but it will be a straight ported wall, no 4th or 6th. I have heard many walls before and have my own opinions but I'd like to know what other bassheads think. I will not be competing, this is purely for my enjoyment and for badass demos. So in your opinion, Where should the port be placed in order to get the best demos? (Loud and clean to the ear, Nasty, nasty hairtricks, air movement etc) Across the top?, Driver side?, Middle? Other? P.S. If it all goes well, the new and improved [email protected] Hoe will be not only be done but also looking pretty by next year's Heatwave.
  20. Alright guys I'm finally starting to work on the Tahoe and figured I'd post all of what I'm putting in it and keep everyone updated with the Build Progress. SYSTEM: - 1 Fi Team15 (Dual 2 Ohm) - BOX: will be designed by RamDesigns (blueprints), not sure the specifics yet. Most likely 7-8 Gross Cu.Ft. for a single 15. - AQ 3500.D Amp (4300 Watt RMS @1ohm, may be wired to .75 ohm sooo more watts?) - Pair of AQ Pro Audio 6.5's - Pair of AQ Supertweeters - AQ 4-120 Amp - VooDoo 0-Gauge Wire (50ft Red / 50ft Blue) - SMD DD1 Distortion/Gain Indicator - Second Skin Alpha Damp - Second Skin Damplifier Pro B-Stock - Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro - 1 XS D3400 (in front) - 2 XS D3100's (in rear)
  21. MaxStanden

    Which Kicker 12" subs?

    New to here but have been watching SMD videos for a while and love them so thought this would be the perfect place to ask this. Almost time for my first car and the number one thing I cant stop thinking about is which subs?!! I really like Kickers and have never heard about or seen anything wrong with them but Im little confused as to which ones I should buy? I was leaning more toward 2 12"'s but kicker has a few different ones and I was wondering which ones would be best for me? From what I have read the COMP 12" is the entry levels and from what I have seen they just dont have enough punch for me so which ones will give the best kick? As for car I havent decided between driving our 2010 Equinox LTZ or I have been looking to buy either a TBSS or a Tahoe. anybody have any suggestions as to which subs and amp I should get or if there are any other brands you would recomend? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Cheers from Canada!
  22. Been over seas thought I take a quick shot of my Tahoe . White interior coming soon
  23. So im looking to put together a system that bumps. My price range is about about 3,500. I had some ideas on some stuff i wanted to get. This is most likely going in a 2000 chevy tahoe. Here was my first idea. im open to any and all sugestions just please read everything before posting. 1. 2 sundown audio SA-12's with an Sundown audio SAZ2500d v.2 (the subs and amp would run about 1500 altogether) Obviously i can get better quality things, but the only issue is i have to factor in box costs, battery upgrades and a new alternator. i already know im going to have to do a big three upgrade. Does anyone know what alternator i should buy? Im also in the market for a kick ass component speaker system for the rest of the truck so it isnt all bass. It would really be great if i dont spend all that money but at the same time its not a huge issue.
  24. Hey everybody. Within the next year I'm looking to put a system in my 2000 Chevy Tahoe. I originally planned on doing two Rockford Fosgate T2 12s and a T2500. Well i have been looking around quite a lot and I've become interested in Sundown Audio. Does anyone have any reviews on their x12 dual 2 subwoofer and the SAZ-5000D Amplifier? Also my budget is about 700-900 for subwoofers, and somewhere under the 2,000 range for the amp. So all suggestions are appreciated and taken seriously. But i would like to go with anything above 2500 watts. Any other Companies i should be taking seriously, companies with good pricing? (rockford seems to charge a lot just for their name) P.s Again, if you have any other ideas, please feel free to post them Thankyou, Jon
  25. As of lately I've been having doubts about my system in regards to installing/putting more into it or just stopping and leaving it the way it is. I have a 2003 Chevy Tahoe with 2 Fi Q 15's on 2K watts. An under-sized Ported Box tuned to 30hz (probably is 4.5 cubes on 2 15's...really small). Stock alternator. 2 Batteries (still dips voltage though). Stock Bose mids + tweeters. Have NO sound deadener installed atm. Anyway I'm just going to list out the things i'd LIKE to do to the truck soon, but don't know how worth it it would be to do so, here it is: single or double layer Murder Mat in the entire truck, get clean+loud mids + highs, get a 7-8 cu ft Ported Box tuned to 33hz (have NO IDEA where port(s) should be - still facing trunk lid OR facing roof? - not to mention id like to keep my middle row seats), and possibly upgrade the alternator to a 250+ amp. My problem is if I decide to do even ONE of those things in that list, I figure i should do ALL of them just to have my system "perfect" as much as it can be and possibly compete hopefully one day soon. You can imagine to do all that it once would cost a decent amount of cash. There's a nerve-wrecking issue I'm having with the overall Sound Quality of my build atm. That would be the front 2 doors + windows rattling / making a heavy amount of unwanted tones. I figured 2 15's on only 2k wouldn't make that much bad noise, but it does in my truck. I literally have to press my leg against the door panel to bring those noises down to a cleaner level of sound. The lows arent as bad as the highs, but it still irritates the heck out of me. Well guys I know this is a pretty lengthy post but if anyone has any advice about sound quality, the box design + space in the vehicle, etc id really appreciate it. I'd HATE to just say that I'm done with the whole bass system after i put quit a bit of time and money into the truck already, but its almost coming down to that. Would anyone with sound-deadened systems be able to tell me how much the deadener helps with door panel and especially window noise? I appreciate whoever can offer anything, thanks in advance.