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Bought a kicker L5 8 that turned out to be burnt up, So with a spare magnet off an old MTX and time I found some soft parts that fit reused the surround+cone, basket and dust cap! Double stack MTX magnet gives it a little more height tapped new holes for the basket bought a variety of spiders so I can feel which ones I like best before I glue them in, Everything here is from Lord Of Bass, Including the 4 gauge spring terminals. Coil is rated for 1500+ watts! turns out a ziplock container was the perfect spider ring to apply pressure while the glue dried. Braided 3 tinsel leads together per coil lead aswell cause why not? lookin good ports on point just add glue getting jiggy with the saw with the help of WinISD, it says with all six ports I'm tuned to 55hz, 5 ports is 50hz 4 ports is 45hz 3 ports is 38hz 2 ports is 32hz 1 port is 22.5hz Cant wait to hear it tomorrow when I put power to it

does any body know were i can get a spider for a 2'' voice coil ??? im trying to fix my kicker solo baric l5 10" sub but i cant find any spiders that will the 2" voice coil ??

lookin to see if anyone has any box ideas for a single cab f150 `63 inches long 9 inches at the bottom 4-5 inches at the top 25-30 inches tall about 60 inches long at the top of the box got 2 kicker compvx 12 dual 2 ohm 750 rms 1500 peak got a concept cd-2410 amp to power them it can fit 0 gauge wire into the power ports and what not, was wondering if any of yall had a box idea or somethin or if yall could deisign somethin it would be greatly appreiciated more then you know, ill help out and supply as much information as yall need whatever yall need.

im in the process of building a ported box housing 2 15" kicker comps. goin in the back of my s10 ext cab. goin 7 cubes @ 33hz. and im stumped. this will be my first box build so i need ideas on designing this. so far this is what ive got, box width: 41 box height: 24 box depth top and bottom : 18 wood thickness: 0.75 square port height 22.5 square port width 4.3 square port L1 12.95 square port L2 12.95 total port lenght 32.4 square port diameter 11.09 square port area 96.75 box vol. (ft3) 6.662 tuned freq: 31.7 id like to be able to have the port firing forward on the passenger side and subs firing up. but this calculator im using isnt givin me any option but to fire both either up or forward together. what i need to know is how the inside should look or how to direct my air to the port ass efficiently as possible. and is my port to big for these subs. if so please give me any advice you can. thanks

nothing here please read the rules you had to scroll through to post this.

Hey errrrrbody. I am very close to locally purchasing a ZX350.4 for my first mids & highs amp for a great price in my city up here in Canada. the reason the deal is good is because the amp is supposedly not working properly. What the seller has said in his ad, and as well as through text messages is that it "Works great but won't turn off. The technician said the FAT must have been fried (whatever that means) other than that it still works." and.. "it turns on the moment you hook it up to the battery but it won't shut off even with the car turned off. It was bought brand new but I just shorted it when I installed it." Has anyone ever dealt with a problem like this? Is it repairable? I personal had my bass amp repaired at some circuit board repair company in town so that may be an option for me as well. Please advise!!!

Hello everyone- I'm fairly new to here, so.. go easy on me. I'm looking at downgrading my system. (Or upgrading from a sony xplod..) I currently have a 12" Sony Xplod, which sucks horribly. It was free, so I can't complain, and my amp is a Hifonics HFI1500.1d -mono. I'm looking at a few different subs, mostly 8's and 10's. Right now, I'm comparing a few different ones. Rockford P3 - 10" Sundown SA-10" (or two 8") Alpine Type-x - 10" What is everyones thoughts on these listed three, for a beginner audiophile, on a limited budget?

im going to have a saz-50.4 , with 4 6x9s 2 3.5s 4 tweets http://www.audiosavings.com/products/6x9-Car-Speakers/2-Pairs-Kicker-11DS693-6x9-3-Way-Car-Audio-Speakers-Totaling-560-Watts-DS693/%282%29+11DS693.aspx http://www.audiosavings.com/products/3.5-and-3-Car-Speakers/KICKER-KS35-3.5-2-WAY-KS-SERIES-2-WAY-SPEAKERS-11KS35/11KS35.aspx http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Car-Speakers/2-PAIRS-OF-NEW-RE-AUDIO-TW-1-SILK-DOME-1-CAR-TWEETERS/%282%29+TW1.aspx my question is all this equipment what ohm and type ( 2way 3wayetc..) that im going to need and is this amp going to be enough to get my moneys worth out of these speakers

Hey guys! So I'm new to the whole SMD forums as well as car audio in general. For years I've been watching bass videos and always aspired to get my first setup and finally accomplished this goal. Today I worked for almost 12 hours installing my first setup which consists of one 12" Kicker L7 and an RE Audio XT2000 amp. I wired everything but was disappointed to see the sub was barley even hitting. Even when I cranked the volume the sub was barley moving and you could only tell it was by touching it. Also, while I was filming the "i need help" video, for whatever reason the sub wasn't even playing at all. I need help! What could be going wrong? I made sure everything was properly connected, could it be a setting on my aftermarket headunit? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks guys :tup: Video I just took a new video this morning, but this is the one from last night (figured out the reason it wasnt even playing was because i had the switch on slave) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQ52kCBQ-08&list=UUzfYGV3CBu7X7ooQrEkbRgA&index=1&feature=plcp http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ih0vPOJEXuM&list=UUzfYGV3CBu7X7ooQrEkbRgA&index=1&feature=plcp

Hey ya'll, I'm looking for some advice. RN I have four 8" kicker Solo-Baric L7S (https://www.kicker.com/solo-baric-l7s-8-4-ohm-subwoofer) under the back seat of my truck, powered by a Soundigital 3300.1D Power (https://soundigitalusa.com/products/3300-1d-power/) The box has a total volume of 2.5 cu.ft. (https://subthump.com/Chevrolet-GMC-Custom-Subwoofer-Boxes/Silverado-And-Sierra-Crew-Cab-Custom-Subwoofer-Enclosures-by-Subthump/20142018-Crew-Cab/20142018-GM-Crew-Cab-Dual-8-Ported-Front-Fire-Box-Lift-Kit-Req39d-New-clone.html?osCsid=d501294e1c960bk0tsdc01fct4) and I have a 2.5" lift on my back seat for more room. My issue is that over the last two years I've had two of the subs fail. Both times one of the voice coils stops working while the other is ok when tested independently. I'm thinking of changing them out but wanted opinions from people who have more experience than me. I'm looking to squeeze as much bass out of the space under by back seat as possible but I want it to be reliable. I don't feel like I'm overdriving the subs or anything but want to know what y'all think. I'm open to different boxes and even considering going ported if I can, also willing to go to different sized subs if they'll perform better. I'm looking at some options myself and have a couple ideas in mind but want to know what y'all think. I don't mind spending money if it means awesome performance with great reliability. Let me know that ya'll think will work good for me. Thanks in advance, any help is greatly appreciated.

This is my first system and build. I am in high school so i do not have much money so everything comes in installments. I have it pretty much close to being done. System includes:(2) AQ SDC2.5 15 d4 (1) hifonics hfi1500 (1) kicker 550.2 (temporary for front speakers) (1)shuriken BT-20 battery (1) 20FT strand of kicker 0 gauge (2) EFX distrobution blocks (1) kciker afs/anl fuse block (1) kicker 200 amp fuse (2) RF prime 6x8's (1) RF prime tweeters (2) streetwires zn1 rca's(speakers) (1) streetwires zn9 (sub) 80+FT of EFX 14 gauge wire HU- sony mex-bt39uw about 3FT dynamat/expansion foam (1) volt meter Other mods done to my car: (1) ledglow multi color led's under front dash (2) cupholder lights (1) satellite radio (3) switches for led's and cupholder lights Sketchup of my box [/img] Got me some wood!(no homo) [/img] [/img] Angles were tough to screw together [/img] Got one on! [/img] Got the other one [/img] Decided to build an amp rack. Turned out pretty good for a noob. [/img] Waiting for evrything to dry so here are some of the the lled and volt meter install pictures. [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img] Here are the rest of the install pics [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img] zn1 [/img] [/img] check back for a video hoping to have it up soon! Hope you like my build.

here is the btls closing doors for me...whats cant these things do..lol

Okay so i have a 2002 chevrolet suburban with blown door speakers. I have been looking around for door speakers that fit 6-3/4" and have been getting very mixed reviews on a ton of different speakers. Any on advice on some great quality speakers that are in 250 to 350 bucks range, looking for quality not just loud. I have a 6 channel amp that i could possibly use too. Setup: Jl 500/1 amp 2 Jl 12" W3V3's Pioneer DEH-3200UB Headunit 4 gauge wiring

I've got a 2000 Nissan Pathfinder and right now I'm on my second system, running a Power Acoustik LT1440/2 bridged for a Kicker L7 in a Kicker custom box that they discontinued with the metal grill on it all on stock electrical with a new head unit, 2011 Pioneer DEH-6350SD. The box is pretty big, but im looking to upgrade and found Audio Queue. i live in an area where the only car audio store i know of reps Z-Stat and thats really about it. I tend to stay away from most of their other products and only have a pair Z-Stat woofers in my front doors because i blew my bose up there before i knew much about car audio. Found what ive got now online. Wondering if i were to buy two AQ SDC2.5 12's and throw them in a generic ported box with an MB Quart ONX 1.1500D, if it would be worth the change, or if i would even notice the difference. Should i find a custom box? ported or bandpass?

Here's one we've been building off and on for over a year. Jason is a lot like me... he's an old, long haired basshead who was out of the game for a while but a mutual friend brought him by my shop one day and that all changed. After a demo in the Evil Goat he had to have big bass back in his life so he brought me a pile of old gear he had stashed away at home. Since then he's become a great friend and supporter of the shop as well as a really good customer. He's also a Ghostbusters fanboi (his nickname is Slimer), which will become apparent when you see this build coming together. This is stage two of ??? of this build so the equipment list I'm providing isn't all in the truck at this point but.... Pioneer DEH-80PRS 2 - Skar Audio SK-4500.1 bass amps 2 - Skar Audio SK-125.4 or maybe a couple of the new v2 amps. Currently has an Art Series A1200 on the mids 1 - Skar Audio SK-85.4 again, or one of the new amps on tweets. Currently an Art Series A204 6 - Skar Audio PAX-10 Neo mids... currently two 8s and four 6.5s 2 - Skar Audio VXT-1 neo bullet tweets... currently some db Drive bullets. 2 - Skar Audio SPX-1 1" dome tweets, not yet installed 4 - Skar Audio ZVX-18s in a ¼ wave t-line back glass blow through Lots of Buzzmat deadener Lots of SHCA 2/0, 1/0, 4g and speaker/primary wire. Epic Lighting RGB lighting kit 2 - HO Alternators (1-OG 300A and one locally built 250A) Custom Audio Anarchy alternator bracket 6 - Xpower (not XS) 110AH AGM batteries and one Diehard Gold AGM starting battery First, a few pics of the first build I did in the truck. This was straight outa 1995, lol. Four 15s in a sealed box that we later ported, two PPI A1200s and an A600 on the front stage. It sounded nice and all but it just wasn't enough. :-D Out with the old and.... Go big or go the fuck home! Mood lighting... More to come...

I am awaiting the arrival of my new sundown audio x-12 that should arrive any day now. I have a couple questions if anybody has the time and is willing to help me out a little. 1) The box I have isn't built to spec. I am going to be limited on funds after these next purchases, so I would rather just use it unless I absolutely have to get another one. http://www.atrendusa.com/atrend/pro-series/vented-enclosures?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=229&category_id=35 I know it won't perform to peak potential but as long as it doesn't sound like total poo or have the potential to hurt the sub somehow then I'll deal with it later, thoughts? 2) The amp I have is a decent one I think. It is the Kicker CX1200.1 (seen here: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_64241_Kicker-CX1200.1-12CX12001.html?SearchClickout%5Bquery_id%5D=22023689&SearchClickout%5BIgnore%5D=1). The birthing sheet that came with it says at 2 ohms it is throwing out 1297 watts constant. It is pushing the hell out of a Fosgate T2 d4 12" right now and has barely gotten even warm to the touch.... The x-12 is rated at 1250, which on paper would look perfect for this build. However I realize that it could take much more with no problem. My question is, approx. at what power does the sub stop producing tangible benefits. In other words, once I reach "x" watts being pushed to my x-12, raising that amount anymore is a waste of money and/or will def harm the sub woofer. If I end up getting another amp, I can trade mine out plus a little cash and score a Rockford Fosgate t1500-bdcp. It's birthing sheet says at 2 ohms it does over 1600 rms. How much better would that be over my amp?? Thanks in advance for any CONSTRUCTIVE criticism that is offered. Please don't even bother to reply if u are just saying something like "Kicker sucks, get a Sundown amp." or "Your brand is awful you are wasting your money." And I know I am stupid so no need in telling me because my wife has already beat you to it. I already have 1/0 guage wiring through out and my deck is a Pioneer DEH-80PRS that I run active with my Rockford T2 6.5" component set. It's powered by an Image Dynamics 4 channel amp @ aprox 75w @ 4ohm. All this in a 2004 Mazda Tribute that is a daily driver (got an 18mo old son so I only get to bump sometimes Thanks again.