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Found 73 results

  1. hey guys, i have a friend who has a Kicker ZX650.4 amp and in one of the channels it just started giving out a lot of static. or like white noise. it gives off the static even when the car is off, and it's like a steady tone, so it's not like an alt whine or engine noise from a bad ground. the amp is like 6 years old. anyways if anyone has any ideas or anything it's be a big help!! thanks!
  2. Okay so I had an old rockford fosgate power mono amp that was rated at 500w at 2ohms and i had two kicker comps SVC 4ohm subs wired to 2 ohms. Now i have a Hifonics Bxi2010d and two kicker cvr's DVC 4 ohm subs wired to 1 ohm and there is really no difference in sound i have also done the big 3 since i hooked up this amplifier up and my voltage drops from about 14.2 down to 13.5 or so. So my question is why is there no difference with atleast tripple the power i have read the the hifonics amp has been clamped around 1800w, I am still using the same box as before but with less impedance and more power shouldnt there be a noticeable difference?
  3. I have nothing for sale here because there are rules here.
  4. I'm not a pro in this area so please be patient. I recently had my sub installed at a shop in my area along with an amp and a lc7i. Whenever I crank the volume up I get this low rumbling sound from the sub. It makes this noise even when there is no bass in the music I'm listening to (i.e. intro, outro). However, it doesn't make this noise while the music is paused. When I looked in my trunk i noticed that they ran all of my signal cables with my power and ground, so I figure there's a ground issue. I went back to have it looked at and the guy told me that since my car is so small it will make that noise due to the amount of bass that I have, and if it was in the trunk of a small car instead of the back of an suv I wouldn't hear it. None of this sounds correct to me, am I correct in assuming that he was just being lazy? I also noticed that my bass knob does not turn my amp all the way off. When the knob is all the way down I can still hear my sub, just at a much lower volume. Is this normal? Oh yeah, due to my sub being a 2ohm and my amp not being 1ohm stable I am forced for now to operate at a 4ohm load. This is only pushing 750 watts to a sub that 1100 watts is recommended for. The instructions say that I can safely power it with 500-1200 watts rms. Could this be a contributing factor? 2009 BMW X3 single Kicker Comp Q 15 Kicker ZXS1500.1 Audiocontrol LC7i
  5. HELP! im looking to ugrade my subwoofers in my 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse (base). I currently have two Kicker cvrs pushing MASSIVE air. However i am getting a complete Soundstream makeover. In a previous post i asked about SPLXs and was told that there were better cheaper subs out there and DC Audio subs were mentioned. I really like the idea of all soundstream but if i can find a better DC Audio sub for around the same price or cheaper then i would be very inclined to get DC AUDIO subs instead. If it matters I was planning on buy the Soundstream 15" SPLX subwoofer ($350) and power it with the Soundstream Tarantula (TX1.1300D) amp ($179). If i get a better sub for cheaper (or same price) i would prefer it be an 18" but if its more expensive then ill get a 15". If anyone has experience with either one or both i would love to hear your story/advice. Also Tell me if there is a BETTER 18" DC woofer than the 15" SPLX for cheaper.
  6. Ok so I am new to the fourm, and joined to ask this question: I have 10 Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1's in a dual ported box. and a choice of a Kicker ZX1000.1 or a JL slash 500/1v1 to push them with. Feeding the signal to the amp is a Audiocontrol LC2i LOC, and it's tapping the stock subs line out. I just installed the system last night and went with the Kicker. Thinking that the 1000 would be better b/c the subs are rated at 350 rms and 1300 max per sub. I tried to tune it today and the gain in the amp is as far down as it will go and the gain on the LC2i is mid-way, and it is crazy loud!!! I was just wondering am I overpowering these??? or is the LC2i just that beast that it will push 2 Kappa Perfects on its own. Should I go with the JL??? anythoughts??
  7. Hello everyone, I just picked up 2 12 L7s 2 ohm dvc and Im in help of building my first box. I have a 2nd generation Lexus GS300. Im a noob to this but would love to build my own box. My trunk dimensions are Max Height = 15 Max Width=65.5 Max Depth = 10 I was planning to tune it around 33 Hz with one or two ports, if someone can help me out with calculating everything I would greatly appreciate it.
  8. I have 2 kicker s15l7's in a custom ported box on a zx1500 amp and i need to add a second battery under the hood. There is a place by the passenger side firewall but there also is a brace. My driver side brace is gone already and i was wondering if it would be okay to take the passenger side brace out too, but i dont want to wreck my car. Also i have the 2005 chevy tahoe.
  9. Alright, so I've lurked on these forums for quite some time, and im now in the process of building my first real system so I would love some input/advice. For starters, I am a fan of Kicker L7's, I know a lot of people may hate on them but that is what I would like to run. My vehicle is a 2004 Tahoe LT. Currently I have 2 stinger spv44 batteries, a kicker zx2500.1 amp, a JVC touch screen head unit, and 1 4 ohm 15" L7 wired to a 2 ohm load in a super bass pro box. Im running 4 powerbass 6.5's in my doors, and 2 unknown tweeters (friend owns an installation shop and gave them to me for free). Everything else is still stock. My current setup is I have my stock everstart battery under the hood, im running 0 gauge wire from that battery (which I will reference to as Battery 1) to a stinger spv44 in the trunk (Battery 2), and then that is connected the other spv44 (battery 3) right beside it. I have 2 200 amperage fuses on the wire running from battery 1 to battery 2, the first fuse less than 12" from battery 1, and the 2nd fuse less than 12" from battery 2. I have wire connecting both of the positive terminals between batteries 2 and 3 and wire connecting both negative terminals between batteries 2 and 3. Battery 2 and battery 3 are also both grounded in separate locations. Im running wire from battery 3 to the zx2500.1 amp with another 200 amperage fuse on that wire leading to the amp. The amp is also grounded in a different location than battery 2 and 3. I plan to upgrade my system to 2 2 ohm 15" L7's here shortly to keep them at a 2 ohm load, build a vented box with separate air chambers, 6 cubic feet of air space per sub. Now that I have explained everything to (hopefully) provide all of the information that you need, here are my questions. 1) Do I have both of the extra batteries and the amp all wired up correctly? All of the wire ran is 0 gauge and there are only the 3 fuses listed in the set up described above, is there anything that I need to change related to how its wired? Do I need to upgrade the battery under my hood and/or my alternator? 2) I dont want my box to take up all of my trunk, I am an avid paintball player so I still need room in the back for my gear bag and cases of paint. If I was to put the box as close to behind the 2nd row of seats as I could so I still had room behind the box for my gear, would there be any significant SPL or SQ loss? 3) My 2nd row seats are bucket seats and not a bench and I currently have the amp mounted on the floor between them, It seemed like a great Idea at first but now im worried about someone potentially spilling something on the amp and ruining it, if the box is built with 1" thick MDF, could I safely mount the amp to the box or would it receive too much vibrations and damage it? The box will be carpeted and mounted to the floor. 4) I listen to all music from country to classic rock, to deathcore, to rap, to dubstep, so pretty much anything and everything, what would be the best Hz to tune the box to for good daily listening, I want the system to be loud, but I want as much of a full range as possible. 5) I want to amp the 6.5's and my tweeters, all of the 6.5's are 75 watt rms at 4 ohm (im not sure if they are DVC or not, can't remember) should I get a 4 or 6 channel amp, and what amp would you guys recommend for them? Currently the 1 l7 already overpowers them tremendously when running off of the headunit alone and thats with the zx2500's gain at 5%, and 0% on the bass boost. 6) Should I put support bars inside the box for those subs or do you think the wood will be thick enough to prevent any vibrations? 7) If mounting the amps on the box is a bad idea, all of my seats are leather, could I mount the amp im getting for the 6.5's/tweeters on the back of a leather seat or could/would that cause me any problems or be a bad idea? 8 ) I keep my EQ on my head unit on flat but the subwoofer level at +10, the treble in the music starts to distort at alot lower volumes when playing music off of my ipod (its EQ is also set to flat) which is connected via USB when compared to listening to music off of a CD. To explain a little better, I have these same songs on my itunes list, I burnt a CD with 10 of the songs and can go to volume 40 before it distorts, but when listening to the same songs from my ipod, they start to distort at volume 32, what is causing that? 9) Sense space is an issue here, is sub and port both up fine? I've been told sub up port back is better, but if I load up gear behind the box, I don't want to choke the port of air space. 10) Once I'm running 2 L7's, do you think those 6 speakers, even after being amplified will be enough to have a good balance of lows, mids, and high's? I would like to keep my subs as loud as I can without clipping them, but I still want to be able to hear the words haha. 11) With only having the sub amplified, the sub is slightly out of phase/delayed with rest of the music, this will be my first set up amping my mids/highs, will amping the mids/high's fix the slight delay that I hear? 12) This may be a bit un-related as far as I know, but about 2 weeks after my so far system install I got a check engine light with the message, "reduced engine power" and im now getting 0 throttle response. I was told by a certified mechanic that it is an electrical issue, do you think this was caused by my system or is it just a separate problem? I know I asked A LOT of questions but I want to have this system done right and I know the brilliant people of the SMD community have the answers. Any comments, help, answers or suggestions are greatly appreciated, thanks everybody! *P.S. if I put this in the wrong section, please just move it instead of deleting it and send me a PM as to where it was moved to, thanks again!
  10. i just bought a kicker 550.2 from my brother for real cheap. and the fuses some how blew so he changed them to 30 amp fuses and just rode it out lmao. but i dont feel like messing something up which i doubt it would but also get the full power of my amp. the original fuses were 35 amp blade fuses i guess you would call them. and i was wondering if i could just buy some off ebay and put them in? or should i actually look for some kicker fuses. which i tried already but the lowest i could use was 50 amp and thats still to big. so if anybody could give me any help i would appreciate it.
  11. SQ beasts. Just want opinions on the Audiopipe Q12 I thought this sub looks great & probably sounds awesome. These are the 12 in models 44lbs while JL is 56lbs. Has anyone heard these Q series in action?
  12. So my 16th birthday is in 4 months. My car is an 06 Toyota Camry (clean and almost new!) My dilemma is that I want to find the best pair of 15 inch subs to install for under $300 and I'm deciding whether to put two Alpine type type r 15's or two Kicker L3 15's. I'm planning to wire the Alpines to a Hifonics BRZ1700.1D and then if I get the kickers I would wire them to a Hifonics 1400 watt amp instead. Any suggestions? P.S. I'm installing my whole system myself, so any suggestions for good wiring kits and etc are appreciated.
  13. so a fellow car audio bud of mine is selling off his setup to upgrade..... 2 15 aq hdc3s and 2 planet audio bb 2400.1 Ive heard they don't do rated but they can do close to rated... I don't need the 1700w claimed at 2 ohm I only need like 1200-1500 (upgrading from an old alpine mrx-m100) to power my sundown x 12 d4 im not making it a perm amp just something to give the sub more juice until tax time anyone got some info on these amps (I know he hit a 154.3 in a 8.4 cuft box tuned to mid 30s in a dodge caravan w/ 7 agm batts stock alt) but I don't have that much electrical I have 2 kinetic hc 1400s and 1 run of 1/0 on a stock Honda alt any opinions or info would be awesome (getting the amp for 200 w/ tool man dual 1/0inputs (going to be getting a nother run of 1/0 during tax time also)
  14. Ok so i have two cvr 12 and the surround is coming apart for the basket and i was wondering if there is a glue/adhesive that i can purchase from any hardware store or like homedepot that i can purchase? thanks for your help and may this help others.
  15. Im still kind of new at this so any help will be greatly appreciated. I just recently had both my 15's stolen along with my amp. I plan on upgrading to kickers new compRs dual 4 ohm 15s and there running 1200 rms. From looking around a little ive found the Lanzar Vibe292N 5k and its thing for dual 4ohm is 1250 x 2 channels. Would this setup work? Or would you have any other advice as far as a better amp to get? I want to keep it around the same price range but im willing to go a little higher.
  16. I have had my 2 15 inch cars for about 2 months, in a sealed box. The box however started cracking so I plan to build my first box, one that will be ported, and my goal is to make it 1 inch thick, and have a port tuned at 32hz. THe max width of my altimas trunk is 38inches and 18 iches in height. I cannot put both subs, side by side and have the port there as well, so my main question is, can i place one sub on top of the box, and the other on the side? Will it sound the same? or is there any way it could damage the subs? I figured if one sub sits on top and the other on the side, the box could be thicker, and the port could be wider, but i am not sure. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
  17. Okay Guys i am going to be puting 2 kicker compd152's (40CWD152) in my van that i already have the 3rd row seats out so theres plenty of room. http://www.kicker.com/CompD Just dont know where to get the best box to put these in i live close to louisville,KY not sure where to buy one locally or just get one online just want a really great sounding box. Thanks, Adam
  18. I was wondering if anyone could help me out. I have 2 kicker solobaric L7 15's with 2 planet audio bb2400.1 strapped together. i have the subs in a probox which is 4 cubic feet per sub plus port. i believe it is tuned at 45 hz. i know these subs get louder and kicker says to do 6 cubic feet per sub plus port but im new to port tuning and have no clue on how to do this. Also i want it to be musical cuz its a daily driver. i have my system in a 05 tahoe so i have room. i was told to face them up and the port towards the back. Can anyone help me with how to build the box, with measurements along with port size? i would appreciate any help you guys can give me.
  19. was just wandering if it was feasible to possibly trade my laptop for 2 15'' 4 ohm kicker cvrs... http://www.walmart.com/ip/HP-Charcoal-Gray-15.6-2000-bf69WM-Laptop-PC-with-AMD-E-300-Accelerated-Processor-and-Windows-8-Operating-System/21150613 thats the link for the laptop... only few months old i bought it from bestbuy like 6 months ago.. has windows 8 installed runs perfect never had a virus etc. i was wandering since the kicker 15'' cvr 4 ohm goes for 105$ a PIECE on amazon... 2 brand new would be 210... the laptop worth double that new.. but again were talking used cvrs and used laptop, just let me know something thanks
  20. Okay so its time to start writing up a build log for my F-150. Gonna be a bit slow, but it will get there. It'll be going through "stages" but eventually it will be full awesomeness!! Working part-time (if you can even call it that) The victim: 2000 F-150 5.4 Extended Cab (111k miles on body, 40k on motor) Current Equip: -Pioneer HU Single DIN -Front Doors: MB Quart Discus 6.5 (Not amped) -Rear Doors: Infinity Reference 6x9 (Not amped) -Subwoofers: 2 Kicker CVR 12" -Seperate Boxes: Birch built to 2.9 cu ft tuned to 30hz (Built them for the eventual upgrade The Planned: -Pioneer Double Din or Alpine Single DIN (Dunno yet, not too worried) -Samsung Galaxy Tab3 Tablet -Crescendo PWX 6.5 all around -Crescendo Super Tweets -Sky High Car Audio -FIBERGLASS EVERYWHERE -Crescendo Amps -Fi SSD Subwoofers
  21. I have two Kicker Comp 12s now and i was wondering if i upgraded those to two Kicker CompVR 12s but kept the rest of my system the same, like same amp same wiring and all that, would it make a difference or would my system still sound the same?
  22. New member, what's up. Thanks in advance, in case I forget to say it later. Anyhow, trying to figure the math on some tweaking of a sub enclosure and due to going from a pair of entry level JL Audio 12's to a pair of Kicker compR 12's. Model is 40CWR122 and I've looked everywhere I can think of, including pages of Google results, the model specific product manual and a slew of forum posts, but I cannot find a single mention of the unit displacement for these subs so I can factor them into the internal sq footage calculator to apply to my tuning. Anybody have any idea what the specifics on displacement are for these subs? BTW, if I've asked something stupid, that's ok too, I'm a long time automotive tech and I get asked stupid crap all the time. I let it slide. You can too. Open to recommendations as well and I don't know how you all feel about the Torres calculator, but I have the data text file to plugin to that if you want to see if anything jumps out at you. I think I have it almost pegged, with a single box that has separate chambers, one for each sub, each chamber consisting of Gross volume: 2.2 ft3 Net volume: 2.11 ft3 Port length: 11.5" Port size: 4" PVC Port volume: .09 ft3 Port area: 12.56 in2 Tuning frequency: 33.34Hz But I'm not 110% certain those are an accurate assessment as there are a few things such as port wall thickness of .237 x port length (4" PVC) that are or are not being taken into account. I've got them plugged into Torres but I don't see any change in the resulting tuning frequency with or without the port thickness specs and number of common port walls. Each sub chamber has an inside dimension of 14.5" x 17 1/2" x 15". Outside dimension of 16.5 (H) x 19 (W) x 16 (D) using 3/4" MDF. Distance to back wall from end of port is 4". Mostly I'm just looking for the sub displacement, but I know when to take advice, so I'm certainly open to any offered by experienced enclosure builders. Thanks again.
  23. I need help with a box for a 15" kicker comp, i want it to do the best it can possible do on the lows, around 24-33 Hz, and alright is ok up to about 55 Hz, so im thinking a bigger box it better, so around 4 cubes, but i cant get the port area and length right, its pissing me off. thanks
  24. I would like to do a 5 ch amp for my truck system, but heres something I wanna confirm. Is there any issue with running a DVC sub off the sub channel (@2ohms) and off the remaining channels my door speakers (@4ohms, components)? The amp is 2ohm stable. thx
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