MotorCityFats13

I would measure the inside edge of the outside gasket and give the baffle a 3/8ths round over... make sure you leave enough wood to support the weight and there should not be any problems.... Its strange that nobody that has done inverted has posted an exact cut out diameter .... I dont know if you can use the Mounting Hole Diameter of 16.75" for an inverted install.... if anything it will be too small and you can remove more material

I will sign it for you if you would like to send it to me.... what color would you like me to use... LOL

thanks for the reply this answer could not have came from a better person than the DC Audio guy him self...

I bought a lvl3 12" AR cone back in may.... built this box 1.25 after displacements @33hz did it with a 3" port after a month it broke in and I started to really notice port noise so I did a little redesign for a 4" port and this would take away from the internal volume so I did it external so it jumped the box to something like 1.4 and then slammed in a $2.39 16oz walmart pillow and figured in the new displacement is around 1.6 so tuned it to 33hz again and just scape goated and called it my bass cannon... it sounds louder the lows are deeper "I love experimenting" now I built this box while my dc sub was in its 21 day build time so I didnt really know how much room my amps needed and such so I choose to err on the safe side but I can now squeeze more room out of this system with a new box... I like building enclosures so it is just another sunday task if it would yield a louder system... I run this at 1ohm final off a BE1700.1d that I bought with intentions in going dc which I did... steves dyno video sold me on this amp BTW... I have more power than I need so if I set this up right how much larger can I go over the recommended specs of 1.25cuft ported, how would this affect power handling and would tuning lower than 33hz help or hurt the amount of power it can handle... my propose of this build was to keep the 3rd row functional and be able to push it back If I needed to load something through the back that would not fit through the rear door opening by moving the amps more to the left and or changing the mounting orientation I could possibly go from anything between 1.25-2.0.... lets hear some ideas from the people that have become DC Audio experts and explain why here is my carwash demo video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zEL_iDMwWQ and my parking lot pimpin video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkPS_scJNtY or should I really just take it apart slap some carpet on it and call it a day?

this is old dont know if you ever built this enclosure but the math I ran on this puts it at a 40hz tune taking it that this box is either a single sub or multi sub shared chamber box..... 16.8" would be around 33hz, 28hz is 24.5"... using 4x4" round pvc ports...

from the looks of some of the hardware..... might maxxsonics be the builder of these amps? hmm I wonder!

I love equipment that belongs in the Smithsonian.... great buy

everyone knows a 6sec 1/4 would have been like 240mph.... he was only racing an 1/8th so he let up the 10sec part was the nhra wild guessing chart that is silly.... I would imagine that when the wrinkles are all ironed out this car should be a high 8 low 9 1/4 mile car.... not bad for a toyota

looks like the little R or TM was removed from the bottom right of the logo

I would love to see a DMM in AC mode along side the tests to see how they stack up.... ive never gotten what rootmeansquare ratings are even good for

I know that the OEM's are installing larger rims every year.... but +2 used to mean something for performance/handling.... pretty much anything over 18" just looks silly and downright cartoonish.... when the OEM's were going with 16-17-18" rims those were factory +1 and +2 designs, what could be any benifit of going +10..... but yes that is a nice front fascia

15,025

I would like to know how it fares up to the usb china o'scope computer wires and software for like $20.... LOL

It will peak at 911 for sure