bassman619

Also you could wire them to 2 ohms by strapping the two amps together and wiring the subs in series

Hahhahaha..man its so funny how everybodys being a dick but what theyre saying is the truth ..in my opinion ..the t2 subs are more susceptible to clipping because clipping will cause excesive heat and those subs have an aluminum cone and dust cap. Well aluminum holds heat more than paper but ur lucky that they are aluminum because with paper cones and caps at that amount of power clipping could possible start a fire..ur past sony xplodes and boss amps..you need to invest in a smd dd1 distortion detector you cant trust ears to set those gains anymore..I burned a t2 cause I ran it 2 months with the gain set by ear and then I bought a dd1 found out I was clipping and set the gains right and guess what 4 months later still blew out..so get that tool asap hopefully theyll cover u on the warranty

Im betting you have speaker wire grounding out sucks cuz theres a whole lot to go thru ..

What I would do is wire to 1 ohm ..turn up your volume to max undistorted volume play a 40htz tone use a dmm and crank gain up until it reads 50 volts..cant go wrong with that..

Either poor ground connection or the cheap/ wrong wires.. you can get noise from rca wires that are not meant for your amp. Theres two kinds differential and single ended . Most high end amps like sundown need differential rcas..the way to know the difference is if you have the rcas with two twisted wires inside each wire javket its differential..usually if u cant see more than one wire in the jacket its single ended..another thing is I found sometimes you can get that noise from the prefab box terminals..if you absolutely have to use prefab what I like to do is pop the terminals out remove the metal connection and run wire straight through the holes of the plastic terminal instead of having an extra connection..and then I put thw terminals back on. Or it could also be a poor headunit ground..I like to ground mine to bare metal instead of grounding to the black wire on the cars harness

Either poor ground connection or the cheap/ wrong wires.. you can get noise from rca wires that are not meant for your amp. Theres two kinds differential and single ended . Most high end amps like sundown need differential rcas..the way to know the difference is if you have the rcas with two twisted wires inside each wire javket its differential..usually if u cant see more than one wire in the jacket its single ended..another thing is I found sometimes you can get that noise from the prefab box terminals..if you absolutely have to use prefab what I like to do is pop the terminals out remove the metal connection and run wire straight through the holes of the plastic terminal instead of having an extra connection..and then I put thw terminals back on.

Alsp those 2 channels on that amp are really one channel..so if you hook kne sub to each channel itll be the same just different leads to the same conn3ction

If you still dont get it watch this video Subwoofer Wiring: Two 4 ohm DVC Subs in Parallel:

I see you say theres a wall in the box that separates them..ok..wired in parallel doesnt have tk be done exactly how diagrams show it..you can wire eeah sub +to+ to the boxes terminal and same for negative and either run wire out side the v Box from one terminals positive to the other terminals positive then one wire from there to the amp..and same for the negative..or you can run the positives and negative from both terminals to the same channel on the amp..both these ways would result in a 1 ohm load

They can only be wired to 2 ohms individually... so one speaker + to + to amp and - to - to amp..but with two 4ohm subs you can wire them in parallel to make 1 ohm.. wire from + to + on one sub then connect that to the next subs + and to its other positive then from there to the amp. Same with negative it would reach 1 ohm...and you need to set gains properly with an oscope or dd1 you should be getting louder..if not you have a problem with your power or ground..either connections arent tight enough, gnd isnt connected to bare metal surface and bolted down ..or bad battery or bad alternator..you should have an h/o alt for that many watts tho

Hahahaha

Nice I'm gonna do that ASAP. Noticed my music is lower with the iPod than cd

Usb connection

So I know the dd1 is designed for use with the cd that comes with it to detect distortion at the normal recording level of a cd..but I normally use my ipod as my music source and I was wondering if I could rip the tracks of the smd tone cd to my itunes, sync them onto my ipod and instead of using the cd toplay the tracks to do gain setting just use the ipod. Is this possible? Would it be safe for my amps and drivers? Any downfall of doing it this way

I think you just want to get louder..why dont you save yourself some money and just build a larger enclosure with some good bracing n resin the indide and do some sound deadening to the trunk and cabin. Maybe some deadener and then sound barrier on top of it. Mdf isnt too expensive and sound deadener will only set you back a few hundred if you take advantage of a sale promotion. Better than sepending 1200 just for a new amp. Also whenever your batteries die on you think about getting all same brand and same group size batteries..different batteries of different group size and brand cycling charge between them can cut down on battery life for all of them. Just tryna help out

Hey what's the specifics on the box height width depth and about the port how wide is it ?

just for looks. nicer for ppl who want to mount the sub reverse style.

If none of that works theres something wrong at the headunit or rcas pull the head unit and check out the connections..just cuz theyre good quality wires doesnt mean nothing can ever go wrong with them. If nothing looks bad or loose at the headunit follow the rcas and check for issues along the whole wire..

Use track 2 to test from the rca.. ..make sure all crossovers and hpf on the head unit are off or set to flat.. plug in the turn on the dd1 ..play the track and start turning up the volume till u see the signal..then keep going up til u see distortion...then once you find the max undistorted volume you set the volume to that max undistorted and play the track for testing the amp..trak 4 or 6.. ..make sure filtwr on amp set to flat ..put positive on the probe to positive on speaker output and negative aligator clip to the ground of the amp..turn up gain til it distorts the back off till its gone..

What kind of rcas do you have ? And are you setting a bass amp or 4ch amp. It is probably the rcas not grounding to the dd1 right or you could be using the wrong track..track 1 is 40 htz to test head unit clipping from rcas for bass.. track 2 is 1k htz to test head unit clipping from rcas for highs..I had a problem like this from my jl audio rcas..they were either too loose on the grounding ring of the rcas or too big...is the device turning on? It doesnt come included with batteries..u gotta remove the rubber case and put a 9v batt in the back..testing the head unit you have to turn the volume on the head unit up until u see a signal.then until u see distortion..If you have done all of this and still no signal I would suggest buying a cheap 3ft rca wire and pulling the headunit out..connect the 3ft to your preouts on the headunit and then from there to the dd1 and see if you still dnt see a signal. Its not very often the dd1 will be defective..they test them before they sell them.

What kind of rcas do you have ? And are you setting a bass amp or 4ch amp. It is probably the rcas not grounding to the dd1 right or you could be using the wrong track..track 1 is 40 htz to test head unit clipping from rcas for bass.. track 2 is 1k htz to test head unit clipping from rcas for highs..I had a problem like this from my jl audio rcas..they were either too loose on the grounding ring of the rcas or too big...is the device turning on? It doesnt come included with batteries..u gotta remove the rubber case and put a 9v batt in the back..testing the head unit you have to turn the volume on the head unit up until u see a signal.then until u see distortion..If you have done all of this and still no signal I would suggest buying a cheap 3ft rca wire and pulling the headunit out..connect the 3ft to your preouts on the headunit and then from there to the dd1 and see if you still dnt see a signal. Its not very often the dd1 will be defective..they test them before they sell them.

What kind of rcas do you have ? And are you setting a bass amp or 4ch amp. It is probably the rcas not grounding to the dd1 right or you could be using the wrong track..track 1 is 40 htz to test head unit clipping from rcas for bass.. track 2 is 1k htz to test head unit clipping from rcas for highs..I had a problem like this from my jl audio rcas..they were either too loose on the grounding ring of the rcas or too big...is the device turning on? It doesnt come included with batteries..u gotta remove the rubber case and put a 9v batt in the back..testing the head unit you have to turn the volume on the head unit up until u see a signal.then until u see distortion..If you have done all of this and still no signal I would suggest buying a cheap 3ft rca wire and pulling the headunit out..connect the 3ft to your preouts on the headunit and then from there to the dd1 and see if you still dnt see a signal. Its not very often the dd1 will be defective..they test them before they sell them.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/172918-z-v4-12-15-18-parameters-and-photos/I posted them back in July in this post. Our site will have all the info shortly. Thx I see them there now but now what I wonder is are these gonna be like the death penalty subs where they never tell you the fs , qts ,vas or any other spexs besides the rms power rating?

but whats up with the builds that i see that people have their whole roofs or trunk lids or even entire floor of the car matted with cld?

Just a side note..DO NOT try to test amperage with the dc or ac amps setting on a digital multimeter..most dmms can only read currentin the miliamps range..meaning less than 1 ampere..if u try to read alternator amperage with a dmm you will fry ur dmm and possibly catch it on fire..just wanted to mention in case anybody gets that bright idea..haha