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About Kennyy

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  1. Hey guys I’ve been on the fence of getting a bandpass enclosure . Unfortunately for my subwoofers the space required for my enclosure won’t work in my trunk due to weight and size that most quality enclosures use. So I found an enclosure that fits that’s not too off on specs required for my subs the only thing is it’s a Bandpass enclosure and a prefab as well. (Ground shaker pbb12b) I’ve checked the EPB of these subs and they are in range to be used sealed or ported with the power I’m feeding them. They are getting a true 750 rms each and are rated at 600rms each. Currently they are in a prefab it’s 3.3cu tuned to 32hz with an aero port. It doesn’t sound bad for a prefab but I want to maximize my net space with the max dimensions I can run 33”x15”x18”. The Bandpass enclosure I found is 3.8 cu tuned to 34hz with a slot port. I know that regular aero port vented is audibly different than a Bandpass but in terms of the specs would the bandpass sound better than my current prefab in terms of hitting lower frequencies? I know my current enclosure port tuning is tuned lower but there is less air space in the box, would the added space makeup for the higher tuning on the bandpass or how exactly does that work? Oh and I know how frowned upon prefabs are but like I said a proper enclosure would take up too much of my trunk (full air suspension setup in trunk as well) so I have to sacrifice sound quality for space reasons alone. I’m familiar what a true to spec enclosure can do in terms of sound compared to prefabs. Fortunately for me that doesn’t bother me too much on this car builds priorities. Current setup 2 12” skar vvx v2 dual 4ohm wired to 1ohm rockford fosgate t1500 XS Power D3400 Battery 1/0 gauge OFC NVX amp kit with Rockford RCA’s audio control lc2 with factory bose headunit on Infiniti G37 sedan.
  2. Yeah currently they have been wired to just the dome light harness and only had the function of turning on/off with just the doors opening or unlocking. I want to add the option to turn them on with a switch to stay on as well while keeping the original function of turning on with the doors. I think I’ll run a relay regardless just to protect my electrical since it’s already tapped into the main dome harness. Thanks for you response
  3. Hey Guys! Just wanted to say how much I appreciate this forum and all the info/help found on here! Was wondering if someone can help me out with a little project I’m doing. So I have some exterior LED’s on my car that turn on when the doors are unlocked or opened (wired to the dome light harness) positive is wired to the dome positive and negative is grounded. Now, my question is in order to keep that function BUT also be able to turn the lights on with a rocker switch while the car is either on or off (doors not unlocked or opened), I would need a relay to prevent back draw right? So my question is. Using I assume a 5 pin bosch style relay here’s what so far I’ve came up with searching the net...someone please correct me if I’m wrong or guide me in the right direction because I feel I’m off somewhere. 5 pin relay will have pin 30- Wire to LED’s positive wire pin 86- wire to battery negative pin 87- wire to battery positive with fuse pin 87a - wire to dome light positive pin 85- wire to rocker switch positive (with rocker switch grounded to battery or frame) And again this will keep my function of the lights turning on when the doors open as well as being able to turn the lights on with a switch without having to keep the doors open while the doors are closed and locked (ie:parked at car show) or unlock them right? Also will a relay help if I have the lights on with the switch and I accidentally open the door (sparking the new power source to the lights) without damaging anything right? Here’s the link to the relay I’m using if needed https://www.amazon.com/Absolute-RLS125-12-VCD-Automotive-Relay/dp/B0002KR9GG?keywords=5+pin+relay&qid=1533953137&sr=8-12&ref=mp_s_a_1_12
  4. Yeah bro when I first read about it I thought it was nuts! Luckily I read about it before just installing it like I normally would. I’ll most likely do the “big 2” in this case to avoid any issues later down the road, last question. Is doing in this case the “big 2” still Beneficial for my current flow somehow ? Or does the lack of upgraded ground defeat the purpose? P.s I appreciate your replies!
  5. Yeah the factory ground has the current sensor. I had originally wanted to do it this way (leaving the factory ground with the sensor) until I learned how the sensor works , apparently people have done it this way and have had tons of battery dying issues which I’m trying to completely avoid...I have copied and pasted a response that I found on the Infiniti forums to better explain why I can’t add a secondary ground. “Battery current sensor is installed to the battery cable at the negative terminal, and it detects the charging/discharging current of the battery and sends the voltage signal to ECM according to the current value. By performing the power generation voltage variable control, the engine load due to the power generation of the alternator is reduced and fuel consumption is decreased.So when you ground the battery directly to the car chassis, you are bypassing the battery current sensor. This sends a signal telling the ECM the battery is full, so the alternator is turned down. This normally is a feature that would help you save gas, but it is working against you when you modify the system with the grounding cable. The car is not charging the battery.”
  6. Hey guys so this might be a little different than normal Big 3 questions. Did some searching and couldn’t find much info on this. my question is. I have an Infiniti G37 sedan, currently running 1500 watts rms along with a full electronic air suspension system. I’ve upgraded the battery to a xs power d3400r and now want to do the big 3. Only problem is that on these specific cars we have a sensor (Battery Current Sensor) that connects from the battery negative to the chassis ground. If I run a 1/0 wire to ground the negative battery to chassis I will bypass that sensor and will give battery issues. So my question is, is running I guess what you’d call in this case a “Big 2?” Beneficial? Meaning just running a 1/0 wire from Alternator + To battery + and running a 1/0 from the engine block to chassis. I don’t plan on grounding the battery to the chassis with any additional wires but I know that grounding the battery is the most important part of the big 3? So is it worth doing the “Big 2” or should I just not run any additional wires for juice. I just want to make sure my charging system is getting as much juice as possible without hurting the vehicles charging system due to the Battery Current Sensor. (Also there’s no way of not running the sensor it’s been confirmed). Any info would be greatly appreciated; thanks!
  7. It's not the actual set screw that backed out or that I worry about backing out bro, maybe I didn't make myself clear enough in my first post I apologize. Reason I said I hate set screws is because I feel there could be a better way to input 1/0 into an amp, the actual set screws didn't back out it's the wiring that backed out of the input due to the set screw not holding all the wires strong enough inside the amp input even after tightening it down as firm as possible
  8. I believe the wire I'm running is actually over sized. (Rockford Fosgate 1/0)...I thought of using the distribution blocks but figured it would defeat the purpose of not soldering considering my Rockford fosgate blocks use set screws as well. Another reason for wanting reducers is to make connecting and disconnecting super easy since it defeats having to twist wire etc to try and fit in the input. Aside of a solder that big breaking in the future is there any other issue I can run into soldering the reducers? I'm only running 1500 Watts rms so my bass usage isn't going to be too crazy. For the member that asked if it's the 1/0 pulling out the reducer, yes..the reducer sits very secure on the amp once the set screw is tight so I want to secure the actual wire not coming out of the 1/0-4/0 reducer
  9. Thanks for the replies guys! Anyway, yes the amplifier has a SS for the reducer, I honestly wouldn't want to solder it but after what happened last week (power wire came loose and made contact with the ground wire right next to it). I guess it's kinda of a dumb design on the amps part as well, being that the 1/0 power and ground inputs are about 3mm apart... but I made sure to tighten the heck out the Set screws and somehow enough wire backed out to spark the ground right next to it. I'm very OCD when it comes to my wiring so I made sure the wire jacket was cut back only the amount it needed so no bare wire stuck out the input, but like I saidsomehow it still came loose so I want to do my best to prevent that. As far as not being a good idea to solder the reducers, what problems can this cause down the line and what causes those issues? I want to make sure the connection is solid so I never have to worry about it again. Set screws have never given me issues until this time so I'm kinda paranoid and figure soldering will give me peace of mind
  10. Hey guys I've been doing research across the forum and around the web. I can't find an accurate answer so was wondering if you guys can help me out. Long story short I switched amps and my new amp only takes 4 gauge wiring for power and ground, I'm running 1/0 OFC and I do not want to downgrade, so I got some gauge reducers. My question is, I hate the little Allen screw that secures the power wire on the actual gauge reducers so I want to solder them. I used to think that the little screws held the wire a properly but recently I had a connection come loose which resulted in my old amp dying. So with thatt being said, can anyone recommend the best type of solder for this application? I read through the soldering big wire thread and it looks like some use 60/40 rosin core, is this the best option to do? Using 60/40 rosin core will I have to use flux or will that not be necessary? I don't mind taking the extra step of using flux but I just want to make sure I can use 60/40 with it. If I can't use 60/40 what solder type should I use to solder 1/0 to 4/0 reducers. P.S. if anyone can give me soldering tips on soldering reducers that would be awesome! I've soldered ring terminals but never reducers, is there any difference?
  11. Hey guys can anyone help? I'm gonna be soldering some 1/0 gauge reducers. I'm gonna be using 60/40 rosin core solder with a torch. Is there any specific brands of solder that I should be using and if I'm using 60/40 rosin core do I still need to use flux paste? If so, what kind? Preferably something I can find locally at a store thanks!
  12. Yeah that's what I'm afraid of, so the ANL fuse holder will require both ends of the power wire coming into the fuse holder to have ring terminals right? Looks like just what I need, that way I can solder some terminals on there and call it a day. Edit: I just did a quick YouTube search and saw how the ANL holder works. Just what I need, thanks so much!
  13. Hey fellas how's it going. Quick question, not sure if people do this or not but came here wondering if I can get some insight. So I wired up my car a few days ago with new 1/0 gauge copper wire. When I put my fuse block by my battery the Allen bolt that "crimps" the wire inside the fuse block, I feel doesn't hold the 1/0 gauge tight enough. Or maybe it's just my OCD kicking in and want to secure that it never comes off with the vibration of the car/engine.. So now for the golden question, has anyone ever OR is it okay if I melt some solder into my fuse block 1/0 wire insert and put my power wire in it to lock in the connection and make sure it never comes loose like you would with a ring terminal? Thanks in advanced for any input!
  14. hey guys i need help trying to trouble shoot the cause of my tweeters making a static noise. Long story short my car has air suspension and the other day i switched out the power wire that runs to the pac80 relay to power my compressors on. When i first installed it i used 10 gauge wire which is what they recommend using, so one day before work i turned my car on to warm it up and my compressors weren't going on, so first thing i did was check the fuse and it was blown, the wire had melted and kept blowing fuses because of it contacting metal. So that same day i came back and switched the complete wiring to 4 gauge power and ground. When i finished changing the wires everything worked until i realized that once my air compressors shut off due to the tank being at full psi my tweeters for some reason crackle. I never had this problem before, but what confuses me is that its only my tweeters and none of my other speakers/subs are making this crackling static noise. I checked all the wiring just now to see if the speaker wire might of made contact with any ground or wires but they didn't, so i don't know what to do now. any input? information about system Audio: pioneer avhx4700bs rockford t1000 mono to skar vvx 12's (2) using 0 gauge rockford fosgate wiring rockford fosgate 4 channel to polk audio db5601 components using 4 gauge rockford fosgate wiring all speaker wire is rockford fosgate as well air suspension details pac 80 relay : ground 4 gauge, power to battery 4 gauge, accessory wire to cigarette plug with 20 gauge wire (1) viar 444c compressor (1) 140-250psi pressure switch
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