Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Kennyy

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

1489 profile views
  1. appreciate the response, any reason as to why the bxx 3000.1 is a better choice than say the skar rp2000 or american bass 4800? id assume its a lot more power hungry and won't give as much RMS output as they claim
  2. hey whats up guys so recently I've been wanting to upgrade my amp. Im currently running a hifonics brx1516.1 at 1 ohm to my Skar VVX 12 v2's but looking to get more power to them, Ive heard they're very conservatively rated so I want to push a good 900-1000 true RMS to each sub. Below i have listed which amps are in my budget and power category, if anyone has experience with any of this please chime in, or if there is anything better I can get thats not on the list please share your input, thanks!. Please keep my electrical in mind to consider amp efficiency. I currently have the (big 3) 1/0 Rockford Fosgate OFC Wire XS Power D3400 1/0 OFC NVX wiring for amps AudioControl Lc2I for Signal So far I have looked into: ($200-$260) Skar Audio RP2000.1D- 2000 Watts RMS https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SKAR-AUDIO-RP-2000-1D-2800-WATT-MAX-POWER-CLASS-D-MONOBLOCK-SUB-AMPLIFIER/182305169370?epid=3027548546&hash=item2a723c1fda:g:oXQAAOSwwSJb9ui5 American Bass VFL Hybrid 48001D - 2400 Watts RMS https://www.ebay.com/p/American-Bass-VFLHYBRID48001D-VFL-Audio-Hybrid-4800-Watts-D-Class-Amplifier/1073530865?iid=293045071176 SoundQubed S1-2250- 2300 Watts RMS https://www.ebay.com/i/253982676870?chn=ps Hifonics Brx2416.1D- 2400 Watts RMS https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hifonics-Brutus-BRX2416-1D-Car-Amplifier-2400-W-RMS-1-Channel-Class-D/233218273654?hash=item364ce47176:g:mIwAAOSwxixc5BMg Audiopipe APM2000- 1944 Watts RMS https://www.ebay.com/itm/Audiopipe-APMI2000-2000-W-Max-1-Ohm-Monoblock-Stereo-Class-D-Car-Audio-Amplifier/222090937348?epid=28030524163&hash=item33b5a6c404:g:WpQAAOSwVghXFR8D:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!91775!US!-1
  3. Figured it out guys. If this ever helps anyone, the G37 Bose system stock subwoofer provides a low signal already, meaning without a line out converter you can just splice the rca +/- into the subwoofer inputs. With a LOC passive or active, I found that pins 16 and 17 were hi output signals that my lc2i was able to bring back down to a low signal. Reason i I used the lc2i over splicing RCA into the already low level is that the Bose amp only provides a clean 1.5v-4v signal. My lc2i provides 6.4v before clipping so I decided to keep my lc2i. I have tried both, same exact setup and the lc2i still provides a much cleaner signal than the already clean signal the Bose amp feeds meaning my amp gains are much lower, so if anyone is ever in this debate. Definitely go with the lc2i if you’re willing to put all the extra work and wiring. Hope this helps someone out in the future
  4. Hey guys so I just finished up wiring my lc2i. I’m having issues with it though. So basically my subwoofers are reading extremely low voltage, I’m running 2 skar audio vvx12 with a hifonics brx1516.1 at 1 ohm. My target voltage (level on amp) after doing the math is 38.72 volts on the multimeter (1500 rms at 1ohm). When I play a 40hz test tone at full volume I’m reading only 3.0 volts even with the gain maxed out when hooking up to the speaker leads on the amp. My lc2i seems to be wired up fine and turning on fine, Positive fused, ground, acc 12v remote (not using gto remote), and my factory subwoofer leads into the speaker inputs. If I max out the lc2i (bass and accubass knobs) the Bass kicks in but at extremely low volume. At max volume of both lc2i and Headunit as well as all the gains set on the amp I’m getting very low sound from my subs. my lc2i BASS adjustment knob is adjusted to a notch before clipping at max volume which is about 75% turned clockwise, the accubass at about 25% clockwise and the accubass threshold on the side is fully clockwise considering I have no bass roll off. Amp Gains are: level: 3/4 up subsonic: 24hz (box tuned to 32hz) phase: 0 bass eq: 2DB LPF:65hz Also noting that the amp does NOT go into protect mode or anything, everything seems to be okay with the amp and wiring, everything worked perfectly before the lc2i install. Could it be that the subwoofer leads from my factory BOSE subwoofer are already low output and it’s feeding a low output into the lc2i instead of a high signal being fed? I had a line out converter hooked up to the same leads and had no issues at all so I’m super confused as to how that worked! I have an Infiniti G37 with stock Bose if it matters, Any help?
  5. Awesome, thanks guys for taking the time to clear this up for me.
  6. Ahhh got it! So if it says 200mv-9v, I can feed it all 9v? I’m assuming since it’s not cea certified anymore that’s not very accurate. So I’m assuming a 6v signal is okay? Thank you for your response.
  7. Hey guys quick question. I Was wondering what the proper way to find out what my amps max rca input voltage can be? I’m going to be running an audiocontrol lc2i and want to give the cleanest possible signal to my amp but don’t want to overfeed or even possibly underfeed rca input voltage to my amp by turning the lc2i gain too high on the bass dial . I understand the lc2i has a distortion detector built in but I’ve read that It will only prevent distortion to the lc2i input signal not protect the amps input signal from distorting amp is Hifonics 1516.1D gains are set at: Level: will decide after max rca output V Subsonic:24Hz Phase:0 Bass EQ:8DB (with bass knob normally at 1/4) LPF:65HZ running 2 Skar Audio vvx 12 @ 1ohm 3.8 cu ft tuned to 32hz I checked the manual but doesn’t say anything about max voltage that can be fed to the rca inputs of the amp but I’ve read 4-6v is usual the rating but want to make sure I get max signal considering the lc2i can go up to 8.5v, that way I utilize the gain as least as possible. Can anyone help me out! Thanks in advanced!
  8. Hey guys I’ve been on the fence of getting a bandpass enclosure . Unfortunately for my subwoofers the space required for my enclosure won’t work in my trunk due to weight and size that most quality enclosures use. So I found an enclosure that fits that’s not too off on specs required for my subs the only thing is it’s a Bandpass enclosure and a prefab as well. (Ground shaker pbb12b) I’ve checked the EPB of these subs and they are in range to be used sealed or ported with the power I’m feeding them. They are getting a true 750 rms each and are rated at 600rms each. Currently they are in a prefab it’s 3.3cu tuned to 32hz with an aero port. It doesn’t sound bad for a prefab but I want to maximize my net space with the max dimensions I can run 33”x15”x18”. The Bandpass enclosure I found is 3.8 cu tuned to 34hz with a slot port. I know that regular aero port vented is audibly different than a Bandpass but in terms of the specs would the bandpass sound better than my current prefab in terms of hitting lower frequencies? I know my current enclosure port tuning is tuned lower but there is less air space in the box, would the added space makeup for the higher tuning on the bandpass or how exactly does that work? Oh and I know how frowned upon prefabs are but like I said a proper enclosure would take up too much of my trunk (full air suspension setup in trunk as well) so I have to sacrifice sound quality for space reasons alone. I’m familiar what a true to spec enclosure can do in terms of sound compared to prefabs. Fortunately for me that doesn’t bother me too much on this car builds priorities. Current setup 2 12” skar vvx v2 dual 4ohm wired to 1ohm rockford fosgate t1500 XS Power D3400 Battery 1/0 gauge OFC NVX amp kit with Rockford RCA’s audio control lc2 with factory bose headunit on Infiniti G37 sedan.
  9. Yeah currently they have been wired to just the dome light harness and only had the function of turning on/off with just the doors opening or unlocking. I want to add the option to turn them on with a switch to stay on as well while keeping the original function of turning on with the doors. I think I’ll run a relay regardless just to protect my electrical since it’s already tapped into the main dome harness. Thanks for you response
  10. Hey Guys! Just wanted to say how much I appreciate this forum and all the info/help found on here! Was wondering if someone can help me out with a little project I’m doing. So I have some exterior LED’s on my car that turn on when the doors are unlocked or opened (wired to the dome light harness) positive is wired to the dome positive and negative is grounded. Now, my question is in order to keep that function BUT also be able to turn the lights on with a rocker switch while the car is either on or off (doors not unlocked or opened), I would need a relay to prevent back draw right? So my question is. Using I assume a 5 pin bosch style relay here’s what so far I’ve came up with searching the net...someone please correct me if I’m wrong or guide me in the right direction because I feel I’m off somewhere. 5 pin relay will have pin 30- Wire to LED’s positive wire pin 86- wire to battery negative pin 87- wire to battery positive with fuse pin 87a - wire to dome light positive pin 85- wire to rocker switch positive (with rocker switch grounded to battery or frame) And again this will keep my function of the lights turning on when the doors open as well as being able to turn the lights on with a switch without having to keep the doors open while the doors are closed and locked (ie:parked at car show) or unlock them right? Also will a relay help if I have the lights on with the switch and I accidentally open the door (sparking the new power source to the lights) without damaging anything right? Here’s the link to the relay I’m using if needed https://www.amazon.com/Absolute-RLS125-12-VCD-Automotive-Relay/dp/B0002KR9GG?keywords=5+pin+relay&qid=1533953137&sr=8-12&ref=mp_s_a_1_12
  11. Yeah bro when I first read about it I thought it was nuts! Luckily I read about it before just installing it like I normally would. I’ll most likely do the “big 2” in this case to avoid any issues later down the road, last question. Is doing in this case the “big 2” still Beneficial for my current flow somehow ? Or does the lack of upgraded ground defeat the purpose? P.s I appreciate your replies!
  12. Yeah the factory ground has the current sensor. I had originally wanted to do it this way (leaving the factory ground with the sensor) until I learned how the sensor works , apparently people have done it this way and have had tons of battery dying issues which I’m trying to completely avoid...I have copied and pasted a response that I found on the Infiniti forums to better explain why I can’t add a secondary ground. “Battery current sensor is installed to the battery cable at the negative terminal, and it detects the charging/discharging current of the battery and sends the voltage signal to ECM according to the current value. By performing the power generation voltage variable control, the engine load due to the power generation of the alternator is reduced and fuel consumption is decreased.So when you ground the battery directly to the car chassis, you are bypassing the battery current sensor. This sends a signal telling the ECM the battery is full, so the alternator is turned down. This normally is a feature that would help you save gas, but it is working against you when you modify the system with the grounding cable. The car is not charging the battery.”
  13. Hey guys so this might be a little different than normal Big 3 questions. Did some searching and couldn’t find much info on this. my question is. I have an Infiniti G37 sedan, currently running 1500 watts rms along with a full electronic air suspension system. I’ve upgraded the battery to a xs power d3400r and now want to do the big 3. Only problem is that on these specific cars we have a sensor (Battery Current Sensor) that connects from the battery negative to the chassis ground. If I run a 1/0 wire to ground the negative battery to chassis I will bypass that sensor and will give battery issues. So my question is, is running I guess what you’d call in this case a “Big 2?” Beneficial? Meaning just running a 1/0 wire from Alternator + To battery + and running a 1/0 from the engine block to chassis. I don’t plan on grounding the battery to the chassis with any additional wires but I know that grounding the battery is the most important part of the big 3? So is it worth doing the “Big 2” or should I just not run any additional wires for juice. I just want to make sure my charging system is getting as much juice as possible without hurting the vehicles charging system due to the Battery Current Sensor. (Also there’s no way of not running the sensor it’s been confirmed). Any info would be greatly appreciated; thanks!
  14. It's not the actual set screw that backed out or that I worry about backing out bro, maybe I didn't make myself clear enough in my first post I apologize. Reason I said I hate set screws is because I feel there could be a better way to input 1/0 into an amp, the actual set screws didn't back out it's the wiring that backed out of the input due to the set screw not holding all the wires strong enough inside the amp input even after tightening it down as firm as possible
  • Create New...

SMD Chat Room

SMD Chat Room

Please enter your display name