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About Kennyy

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  1. The biggest ground I can run through is a true 4 gauge, the car already comes with stock 4 gauge with very thin insulation, so using a regular 4 gauge like sky high or Rockford wouldn’t fit due to the insulation size. If I don’t run an extra negative to chassis, what would you suggest as far as upgrading the grounds? Does adding more engine grounds or fender grounds help in this case or am I stuck running a “Big 2” instead of “Big 3”?
  2. Yeah I figured since my issues only came after bypassing it, that the ground has to go through it. I’m just afraid of a check engine light coming on from unplugging the current sensor because after some researching I noticed there is a check engine code related to the malfunction or removal of the current sensor, so I’m assuming unplugging it will cause some sort of cel. Are there any couplers I can use to split the 0 gauge and run maybe a thinner coupler through the current sensor, kind of like a 0-4 gauge reducer that couples the wire back together once the thinner portion has gone through? Or is there any other grounds besides the alternator that I should beef up since I cannot do the battery?
  3. Unfortunately the new ground wire is way too thick to go through the current sensor
  4. This is almost identical to what my car has and what my voltage is going through. I had actually thought of putting the new ground wire through the current sensor because I figured it was there for a reason but unfortunately my 1/0 gauge is wayyy to thick for it to go through the sensor hole, the sensor hole allows maximum a 4 gauge with thin insulation which defeats the purpose of changing it because the stock ground is already a 4 gauge. In this case, what would be your recommendation to beef up the grounding considering I cannot ground the battery anymore than it is? I want to prevent my interior and exterior lights from dimming when my sound is playing I also have air suspension so the compressors kicking on while my bass is hitting also creates light dimming and voltage drop. I appreciate your research on this topic greatly as well.
  5. Hey guys before I get flamed, I have gone through the entire big 3 thread, done countless searches on this forum and as well as g37 forums (that pertain to my car) and I can’t seem to get the answer I need yet, figuring there’s more people that deal with high output here I figured I have better chances of getting an answer here so please bare with me. So currently I’m doing the big 3 upgrade on my Infiniti G37 sedan and have ran into a bit of an issue. On my car the negative battery cable uses a “Battery Current Sensor”, it’s a little box with a hole through it in which the factory ground cable runs through (I have attached a picture). This tells the alternator when the battery needs charging or is fully charged. Once I added another ground (RF 1/0 OFC) without removing the factory ground, I noticed my car won’t go past 13.3V when it’s usually above 14V before doing the big 3 *battery to chassis* step. This is because the added ground wire bypasses the battery current sensor making the alternator think my battery is fully charged, when it’s not. now I have a couple of questions, 1)Running the new wire through the battery current sensor is not an option, it only allows about a 6 gauge wire through it and no more. Is there anyway to do the “big 3” without adding an extra ground to the battery to frame, I’m assuming this is the most important step in the big 3 so is there any other grounds I can add to the car that will give me the same benefit, or does this mean that my cars electrical engineering won’t allow me to do a proper big 3? I have asked on the g37 forums to see if unplugging the pigtail harness on the battery current sensor will cause ant check engine lights or overcharging/undercharging issues, but yet to have an answer. I won’t be driving the car until later this week, so finding that out by doing so physically isn’t an option yet AND I do not want to damage my alternator by making it work overtime in case the current sensor affects over charging. 2) is it more important to ground the alternator to the frame, or the engine block to frame? From my understanding the g37 front frame is all aluminum so I’m not sure which route to take when grounding the “Engine to Chassis” 3)from my understanding, on the positive battery to alternator wire, the fuse is supposed to be closer to the alternator correct? i appreciate any help in advanced, I really want to get the proper grounding and electrical in my car to run my audio at full potential.
  6. Hey guys sorry to revive an old thread but I have a question. For the engine to ground, it says to grab a bolt from the engine and ground it to the frame. Does it matter which bolt on the engine it is, or is it better if it’s from a certain part of the engine (timing cover, actual block) etc?
  7. appreciate the response, any reason as to why the bxx 3000.1 is a better choice than say the skar rp2000 or american bass 4800? id assume its a lot more power hungry and won't give as much RMS output as they claim
  8. hey whats up guys so recently I've been wanting to upgrade my amp. Im currently running a hifonics brx1516.1 at 1 ohm to my Skar VVX 12 v2's but looking to get more power to them, Ive heard they're very conservatively rated so I want to push a good 900-1000 true RMS to each sub. Below i have listed which amps are in my budget and power category, if anyone has experience with any of this please chime in, or if there is anything better I can get thats not on the list please share your input, thanks!. Please keep my electrical in mind to consider amp efficiency. I currently have the (big 3) 1/0 Rockford Fosgate OFC Wire XS Power D3400 1/0 OFC NVX wiring for amps AudioControl Lc2I for Signal So far I have looked into: ($200-$260) Skar Audio RP2000.1D- 2000 Watts RMS https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SKAR-AUDIO-RP-2000-1D-2800-WATT-MAX-POWER-CLASS-D-MONOBLOCK-SUB-AMPLIFIER/182305169370?epid=3027548546&hash=item2a723c1fda:g:oXQAAOSwwSJb9ui5 American Bass VFL Hybrid 48001D - 2400 Watts RMS https://www.ebay.com/p/American-Bass-VFLHYBRID48001D-VFL-Audio-Hybrid-4800-Watts-D-Class-Amplifier/1073530865?iid=293045071176 SoundQubed S1-2250- 2300 Watts RMS https://www.ebay.com/i/253982676870?chn=ps Hifonics Brx2416.1D- 2400 Watts RMS https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hifonics-Brutus-BRX2416-1D-Car-Amplifier-2400-W-RMS-1-Channel-Class-D/233218273654?hash=item364ce47176:g:mIwAAOSwxixc5BMg Audiopipe APM2000- 1944 Watts RMS https://www.ebay.com/itm/Audiopipe-APMI2000-2000-W-Max-1-Ohm-Monoblock-Stereo-Class-D-Car-Audio-Amplifier/222090937348?epid=28030524163&hash=item33b5a6c404:g:WpQAAOSwVghXFR8D:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!91775!US!-1
  9. Figured it out guys. If this ever helps anyone, the G37 Bose system stock subwoofer provides a low signal already, meaning without a line out converter you can just splice the rca +/- into the subwoofer inputs. With a LOC passive or active, I found that pins 16 and 17 were hi output signals that my lc2i was able to bring back down to a low signal. Reason i I used the lc2i over splicing RCA into the already low level is that the Bose amp only provides a clean 1.5v-4v signal. My lc2i provides 6.4v before clipping so I decided to keep my lc2i. I have tried both, same exact setup and the lc2i still provides a much cleaner signal than the already clean signal the Bose amp feeds meaning my amp gains are much lower, so if anyone is ever in this debate. Definitely go with the lc2i if you’re willing to put all the extra work and wiring. Hope this helps someone out in the future
  10. Hey guys so I just finished up wiring my lc2i. I’m having issues with it though. So basically my subwoofers are reading extremely low voltage, I’m running 2 skar audio vvx12 with a hifonics brx1516.1 at 1 ohm. My target voltage (level on amp) after doing the math is 38.72 volts on the multimeter (1500 rms at 1ohm). When I play a 40hz test tone at full volume I’m reading only 3.0 volts even with the gain maxed out when hooking up to the speaker leads on the amp. My lc2i seems to be wired up fine and turning on fine, Positive fused, ground, acc 12v remote (not using gto remote), and my factory subwoofer leads into the speaker inputs. If I max out the lc2i (bass and accubass knobs) the Bass kicks in but at extremely low volume. At max volume of both lc2i and Headunit as well as all the gains set on the amp I’m getting very low sound from my subs. my lc2i BASS adjustment knob is adjusted to a notch before clipping at max volume which is about 75% turned clockwise, the accubass at about 25% clockwise and the accubass threshold on the side is fully clockwise considering I have no bass roll off. Amp Gains are: level: 3/4 up subsonic: 24hz (box tuned to 32hz) phase: 0 bass eq: 2DB LPF:65hz Also noting that the amp does NOT go into protect mode or anything, everything seems to be okay with the amp and wiring, everything worked perfectly before the lc2i install. Could it be that the subwoofer leads from my factory BOSE subwoofer are already low output and it’s feeding a low output into the lc2i instead of a high signal being fed? I had a line out converter hooked up to the same leads and had no issues at all so I’m super confused as to how that worked! I have an Infiniti G37 with stock Bose if it matters, Any help?
  11. Awesome, thanks guys for taking the time to clear this up for me.
  12. Ahhh got it! So if it says 200mv-9v, I can feed it all 9v? I’m assuming since it’s not cea certified anymore that’s not very accurate. So I’m assuming a 6v signal is okay? Thank you for your response.
  13. Hey guys quick question. I Was wondering what the proper way to find out what my amps max rca input voltage can be? I’m going to be running an audiocontrol lc2i and want to give the cleanest possible signal to my amp but don’t want to overfeed or even possibly underfeed rca input voltage to my amp by turning the lc2i gain too high on the bass dial . I understand the lc2i has a distortion detector built in but I’ve read that It will only prevent distortion to the lc2i input signal not protect the amps input signal from distorting amp is Hifonics 1516.1D gains are set at: Level: will decide after max rca output V Subsonic:24Hz Phase:0 Bass EQ:8DB (with bass knob normally at 1/4) LPF:65HZ running 2 Skar Audio vvx 12 @ 1ohm 3.8 cu ft tuned to 32hz I checked the manual but doesn’t say anything about max voltage that can be fed to the rca inputs of the amp but I’ve read 4-6v is usual the rating but want to make sure I get max signal considering the lc2i can go up to 8.5v, that way I utilize the gain as least as possible. Can anyone help me out! Thanks in advanced!
  14. Hey guys I’ve been on the fence of getting a bandpass enclosure . Unfortunately for my subwoofers the space required for my enclosure won’t work in my trunk due to weight and size that most quality enclosures use. So I found an enclosure that fits that’s not too off on specs required for my subs the only thing is it’s a Bandpass enclosure and a prefab as well. (Ground shaker pbb12b) I’ve checked the EPB of these subs and they are in range to be used sealed or ported with the power I’m feeding them. They are getting a true 750 rms each and are rated at 600rms each. Currently they are in a prefab it’s 3.3cu tuned to 32hz with an aero port. It doesn’t sound bad for a prefab but I want to maximize my net space with the max dimensions I can run 33”x15”x18”. The Bandpass enclosure I found is 3.8 cu tuned to 34hz with a slot port. I know that regular aero port vented is audibly different than a Bandpass but in terms of the specs would the bandpass sound better than my current prefab in terms of hitting lower frequencies? I know my current enclosure port tuning is tuned lower but there is less air space in the box, would the added space makeup for the higher tuning on the bandpass or how exactly does that work? Oh and I know how frowned upon prefabs are but like I said a proper enclosure would take up too much of my trunk (full air suspension setup in trunk as well) so I have to sacrifice sound quality for space reasons alone. I’m familiar what a true to spec enclosure can do in terms of sound compared to prefabs. Fortunately for me that doesn’t bother me too much on this car builds priorities. Current setup 2 12” skar vvx v2 dual 4ohm wired to 1ohm rockford fosgate t1500 XS Power D3400 Battery 1/0 gauge OFC NVX amp kit with Rockford RCA’s audio control lc2 with factory bose headunit on Infiniti G37 sedan.
  15. Yeah currently they have been wired to just the dome light harness and only had the function of turning on/off with just the doors opening or unlocking. I want to add the option to turn them on with a switch to stay on as well while keeping the original function of turning on with the doors. I think I’ll run a relay regardless just to protect my electrical since it’s already tapped into the main dome harness. Thanks for you response
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