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Kennyy

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About Kennyy

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  1. Hey guys so I did some more diagnostics today on the setup. a couple things I came to conclusions on I did some research on my amp “NVX VADM2” and I read that the inputs are ONLY “high-level”. From my understanding the lc2i is putting out “low-level” signals to both “main” and “bass” outputs so I’m assuming that’s causing an issue to the amp. Now, I tried wiring up the high level speaker outputs coming from my factory amp where my lc2i is tapped into, straight to the amps “high-level” molex, but I still got only some mid-bass playing and a static tweeter sound. I want to say the amp might have gone bad from getting a low signal? But I’m confused as to why it works perfectly fine with my iPhone aux to rca adapter. I tried measuring the rca voltage AND the factory amps high level playing a 1000hz test tone but my multi meter wasn’t picking any voltage up? The only time it measured voltage was when I played a 40hz test tone. Is there any reason for this?
  2. I honestly thought about that, yesterday to do a quick RCA test I wired an rca cable from the output on my sub amp to my mids/highs amp input. I still got frequency noise and suspected that it’s always been there, I just don’t hear it through the subs. Because what I noticed is only my tweeters make noticeable noise, my midbass plays music fine for the most part . I want to assume that the lc2i is causing signal issues but before I purchase another one I want to test it out on another amp. Is there anyway that the lc2i could be feeding a low level signal to my high level amp? I feel like my components are playing low frequency notes fine, it’s only the high frequencies it’s having trouble with. I know the lc2i has its “main” channel, strictly for high level but I want to rule this out regardless.
  3. Double checked, crossover is not on bi-amp and I’m using the “TWT” input which the manual says to use when not using bi-amp mode.
  4. Hey quick update. you were absolutely right! after countless hours of diagnosing everything from top to bottom, I came down to the conclusion that the lc2i “main” channel, which provides the high level signal is malfunctioning. I have the amp relocated, power, ground, remote and speakers wires all hooked up, when I use a different audio source (ie: my iPhone) the speakers work flawlessly. So I know there aren’t any issues with any of the wiring aside of the RCA’s, I swapped out the RCA cables with a freshly opened pack of sky high cables and it still did the same thing verifying that my original cables are good. , so I’m assuming the lc2i “main” channel is fried causing issues via RCA’s. before I purchase another lc2i, is there any safe way to test if my lc2i is malfunctioning ? I was thinking of running an rca cable from the lc2i main channel to my other cars amp to see if it causes my amp to malfunction but I don’t want to damage anything on the other car. Tomorrow I’m going to use an actual head unit wired up on the test bench to verify everything works with a second audio source other than my phone with the amp wired in it’s new spot to verify everything continues working. thanks so much for all your help, I extremely appreciate it.
  5. Okay got it so I moved my amp away from that spot again. I used a jumper of brand new wire from the amp in the trunk to the component on the door, still hissing. So I’m ruling out the speaker wire being damaged. I’m typically extremely careful when running wire so I knew it wasn’t the speaker wire. The weird thing is that for the most part, my RCA’s are unplugged from the LOC. I tried changing the source and used my iPhone again and it made an even worse static sound so I’m going to assume it’s not the LOC? im running out of ideas, I know for a fact that -the amp is good = tested with power supply and iPhone - (tweeter,midbass,crossover) are good = tested with power supply and iPhone -REM wire good= tested using jumper from battery to REM input on amp (still hissed with new REM wire) speaker wire going from amp to crossover is good= tested with a new jumper cable from amp to crossover (stilled hissed) -Amp is not mounted anywhere that has metal anymore= tested -even with RCA’s unplugged, speakers continue hissing
  6. So I put the amp back in the car. what I came to the conclusion is the remote wire!! I mounted it back in the exact same spot using the same screws to backtrack everything, with the ground UNPLUGGED on the amp and the REM PLUGGED, the amp turns on. if I leave the ground UNPLUGGED, with the REM UNPLUGGED as well, the amp doesn’t turn on. does this mean the remote is grounding out the amp?
  7. UPDATE: I hooked up the amp via power supply to the components that are installed on the car and glad to say that my components are working perfect! I was afraid they would be damaged but they’re screaming nice and loud. so this leaves me to rule out a bad amp and bad tweeter/midbass/crossover. is it safe to say the main speaker wires going from amp to crossover is grounding out somewhere? I unfortunately don’t have an extra RCA long enough because I wanted to try hooking up an rca from my lc2i to the amp, right now I’m using my iPhone with an rca splitter as my audio source to test it out
  8. Okay so quick update. I have the amp on the test bench right now. Luckily for me the amp is working perfectly fine, I took out my other components out from the box and both tweeter and midbass is playing flawlessly with absolutely no static. so I’m ruling out the amp for sure. im going to try and put a short wire to the passenger door to see if those components are working fine as well, I’m going to go ahead and assume the speaker wire is pinched somewhere and being grounded? the way it’s wired on the test bench right now is: -positive from power supply into positive of amp -negative of power supply to ground of amp -wire jumper from the amps positive to the remote (for turn on) -crossover wired to amp normally this way, my other set of Rockford components are playing perfect
  9. I tried the power supply with the amp still inside the car, only using the positive and negative from the power supply while keeping the remote wire and speaker wires from the car hooked up. Today when I get home I’m going to completely remove the amp from the car and put it on the bench with new speaker wire to see if the amp is still hissing. I’m hoping it’s neither the amp or components and that there is probably a pinch in a wire somewhere
  10. Awesome, I will test it out separately when I get home from work on my work bench. Thanks SO much for taking your time out of the day to help out, I will update later when I’m home with work to see what I’ve come up with. Enjoy your day!
  11. Is there anyway to safely test the amp? I have a 12V power supply on my work bench that I’m going to test out when I get home from work with the amp completely out of the car using the speakers that are still in the box. I have my driver side components still in the box, would it be safe to wire these components up to the amp to test while powered on by my power supply? Or will I risk damaging my speakers? What would be the best way to test if my amp is bad? also what could cause this ? The only issue I’ve found so far is that the amp was turning on even without the ground wire plugged in so I’m assuming the amp has been grounding itself out this whole time.
  12. Here’s a picture of the current setup on the passenger door as well, in case needed, tomorrow I’m going to wire up the other tweeter/midbass/crossover inside the trunk directly into the amp with no speaker wires running into the car to see if I still get buzzing. The only things left for me to think are either a small damage somewhere in the wiring from the amp to the crossover (which I highly doubt) or a bad amp...both components and amp were purchased brand new.
  13. So in that picture the RCA’s were NOT plugged in. I dismounted the amp and the grounding issue was fixed, once I dismounted the amp it did not turn on without the negative plugged in BUT the buzzing and lack of sound from tweeters stayed once I grounded it and powered it back on. so I decided to try a few other things. -I tried turning the amp on dismounted with no ground, it did not turn on..so that means my amp is no longer grounded to the vehicle and only using the actual ground wire. -Second I plugged the ground back in and turned the amp on *dismounted* with the speaker wire molex on the amp plugged in...buzzing and no sound from tweeter was still there. -Third..I decided to completely get rid of both power and ground coming from vehicle and wired in my dedicated 12V power supply to the amp, keeping only the speaker wire molex and remote wire plugged in from the car. The buzzing and lack of tweeter sound stayed. -so since I’ve ruled out positive wire, ground wire and RCA’s...what could be causing this? so far what I have is, the amp dismounted from any metal, both positive and negative hooked up. Buzzing and no sound from tweeters continue. The only thing that has stopped the buzzing while the amp is ON, is disconnecting the speaker wire molex on the amp. currently I’m running 14 gauge OFC sky high car audio wire from the amp in the trunk to the crossover on the door. Both tweeter and midbass are also wired from the crossover to each speaker using 14 gauge sky high wire, soldered and heat shrunk. I have my passenger SPEAKER wire running with the same positive wire for my amps, and air suspension management/compressor...but I’ve ran speaker wire along side power wire before and never had any issues, let alone absolutely no sound coming from tweeters. ALL RCA wires are in the trunk away from any power wires, my LC2i is tapped into my factory amp In the trunk, so no RCA cables come near my positive wires nor inside the car. I noticed that when I put the volume half way up, I start getting nasty distortion or cracking from both midbass and tweeter even with the amp and lc2i gain below half...any ideas? i attached a picture of how the amp is currently sitting, for testing purpose I have it floating held on with zip ties so it’s not mounted or near any bare metal.
  14. I appreciate all your replies. the only thing grounded to the battery is my loc. Super weird, right now I just unplugged the ground wire on my amp and it stays on???? Does this mean the amp is being grounded somewhere else?? (You can see the ground wire with reducer unplugged on the lower right of the picture) the ONLY thing that has stopped the new components to buzz is unplugging the speaker wire molex on my NVX mids/highs amp. Does this mean somewhere in that wiring it’s grounding out? Because my amp is still turning on even with the ground wire removed.
  15. I found this factory trunk ground, would this ground be sufficient for my NVX VADM2 if I want to relocate the ground to see if that helps? And if I don’t use that exact bolt can I ground on that same surface just about 1 foot to the left of it? I want to keep my ground wire less than 3ft and that factory ground is about 4 ft from where my amp is mounted. UPDATE: I just unplugged my lc2i power/ground plug to elimate it sharing a ground and the static still pertains. Can I rule out the lc2i and focus on the mids/highs amp?
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