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BEEKAY

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About BEEKAY

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    125db

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  1. Ya I coulda swore I was gonna the auction but someone came in right at the end. The guy offered to sell them to me for $1800 plus shipping before the auction. Kinda wish I would done it now. $1000 per amp including shipping still woulda been a steal.
  2. I talked to the guy and it seemed legit. He sent me a bunch of pics of the amps. I bid on them but got sniped at the very end. They ended up going for $1599.90. What a steal.
  3. Leaving it disconnected doesn't tell much. I'd load test it and see how it performs.
  4. I used screws that are designed to attach wood to metal. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Teks-12-x-2-3-4-in-Phillips-Drive-Sheet-Metal-Screws-40-Count/3316526 Those are the type I used and they worked very well.
  5. Now it was time to start inside of the box. Got the back port in and supported with angle iron on the back side. Also got some 2x4s in on the side to slide the baffle in and have something to attach it to. Sub baffle pieces were then cut and sub holes cut out. Baffle is only 3 layers thick but there will be plenty of bracing under and on top. Finally got the sub baffle installed in the box. Still needs some bracing but its in place.
  6. Decided to get my alternator bracket and alternators installed and some wiring done under the hood. Secondary alts are currently not connected to the pulley system and Singer replacement for stock alt is not in. Once I get closer to being done I'll install final pulley, put Singer alt in stock place, and get the belt on all 3 alts. Added a couple grounds to engine block going to the back. Connected a couple grounds going to the back to alt cases. Added my SMD fuse 8 way fuse holder and connected the runs going to the back. Only 5 runs for now but gives me room to add more down the line. The big girls just sitting patiently waiting to be installed lmfao. They sure are dusty. Went back to the outside of the box and screwed some 2x4s in between the cage for added strength. This will all be covered up and look nice soon.
  7. Next it was time to fiberglass the pillars and make them strong. The Tahoe seats have a slight hump on one side of the seat for the seat belt assembly that came into contact with the cloth. I didn't want to be limited to leaning back just a little bit because of the pillars. So what I did was wrap the humps in wax paper and leaned the seats back into place to stretch the fleece to where I would want the seats to be. Once the seats were in place I put a few layers of fiberglass so it would keep the same shape and position. Now I can lean my seats back without any limitation from the pillars. You may notice the slight hump on the back side of the pillars now. Final layers was about 12 mixed with cloth and mat. Obviously this stuff will be cleaned up eventually. Next I just used some bondo to start smoothing the inside for paint or carpet. Just a start, still needs to have some sanding done. Got some goodies in the mail during this time. These Singer alts should be a nice power addition to the build. Excited to have these. Now I was planning to run a bank of super caps and lithium. So I started off by getting 6 banks of Maxwell super caps from a car audio company. Plans changed very quick when multiple of the caps started leaking without me even giving them power. I won't mention the companies name but I sent them back and got a refund. At this current moment the new plan is just a big bank of lithium. Here's a pic of the caps when I did have them. Now it was time to start with wiring. I decided to go with 250ft of EB flex 2/0 welding cable for this build. First 5 runs of the positive side. All runs in place. 5 positive and 5 negative.
  8. Both sides in and attached. Last back piece in place and attached. Now I started working on the roof in front of the b pillar. Started with one layer of 3/4" MDF. Then a second layer of 3/4" MDF. Then finally a 3rd layer that covers everything up and makes it look like one roof. This will be prettied up eventually. Now I decided to start sealing off the box from the b pillar. Started off by just stretching some fleece from the door seal to the box where I stapled it to keep it in place. In the future I would have used a thinner cloth because the fleece soaks up so much resin to get it stiff.
  9. It has been a while since I've updated this build so I figured I'd upload what I have done. I'm not as far as I would like to be but other hobbies and just being busy in general has taken a lot of my time from the build. I've really started to get back into gear in the last 2 months so hopefully I'll have it playing later this year though. So to pick up where we left off; after the cage was done I got to work on getting the wood up on the walls. I started with the roof which I cut in two pieces to make it easier to foam the gap from roof to cage. Foamed first half. Then got second half of roof connected. Foamed second half of roof to fill any gaps. Now it was time to get the floor done. Looking back I think I should have had a steel floor also. I had the steel to do it but I was impatient and didn't want to send it back to my buddy again for more work. I really don't think it will make all that much of a difference though. Getting one of the sides cut. One side in and attached. Man was that a pain in the ass!
  10. Brian is your guy for AA, been going through him for AA/FI subs for the last couple years.
  11. That's dope you build with your boy. I loved working on anything with my dad when I was his age! I learn a lot from my old man.
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