chewie

awesome install

my experience with boat audio it focuses more on mids and highs than it does actual bass.. because you really cant hear much when your underway.. do some powerful mids and highs backed with a amp.. and you will be fine.. also some 6x9s in moveable boxes isnt a bad idea.. because he can place them on the nose of the boat if he is at a island docked so people around him can hear and he can place them back in the boat when hes underway. if he wants some bass while docked then go ahead and install a few 8 or 10 inch woofers around the back seat area.. (if you have some interior pics i can throw some ideas out .. but be sure to include a bass knob so he can turn it down while driving..

two words to describe those.. holy fuckballs..!!!!

rusty i think its awesome that your showing the different things that your trying.. and no im not just sayin that to gain brownie points but i think its important to share ideas so you can come up with a woofer that pleases alot of people instead of just normal looking woofers .. example.. thats what drew me to the stroker/stroker pro line.. feild reconable (no glue required) and adjustable voice coil.. adjust it for more spl or more sq. it was just downright cool. (and i have a hardon for cerwin vegas house equipment) and frankly i think that new cone looks awesome keep up the great work. and hopefully you continue to devolop great equipment

yeah the spiders are glued to that plastic peice that you see bolted in place. and the tinsils are sanwiched between the spiders.. but i really wish somone would make those wire terminals on their woofers... they are the bomb... the standard strokers no longer have recone kits available kinda sucks but im sure somone could fab something up.

possibly alignment pins stuck throught he bottom of the motor... much like the cerwin vega strokers. see the six small holes by the rubber magnet cover? the woofer comes with six spring steel aligment pins that are about 7 inches long that center the voice coil in the gap. also note the bad ass 8 guage wire terminals that work AWESOME!!!! strip off a inch of insulation.. twist.. insert and crank down on the grub screw.. i could literally pick my sub up by the power wires... someone needs to make these..

gotcha.. man i wish a was local for a demo..

your just gettin old.!!! jk im sure its friggin insanity in your car.. maybe take the high freqs down a notch.

cool beans..

do you guys sell bot repellant?

caps bro.. cmon now.. when homeboy was hookin it up he shoulda noticed a big spark or something.. im still thinkin no power back there

thats what suprises me at least i was expectin to see popped caps. im thinkin your gettin no power back there there shoulda been some activity did you try firing it up with the woofers disconnected

if you have a digital multimeter on hand you can just test voltage. if your getting +12 outta the remote wire and the power wires then your good to go.. and youll know the problem is in your amp. how did you wire up your subs? maybe theres a load protect where it wont fire up if it sees a certain load under 1 ohm

do you know for a fact your getting power back there? good ground and all? did you upgrade the big three?

a fuse in the car wouldnt cause that.. the battery should be grounded to the chassis via straps and wire and the positive running back is directly off of the battery.. check to see if your getting +12 outta the remote wire off the head unit.. (positive probe on the remote wire and then ground the negative probe to your ground cable. or a ground spot or if it was really cheap wire you coulda burnt up the wire halfway up before that monster 300 amp fuse popped.. what guage and brand wire are you using?

any chance you didnt hook up the remote wire nothing looks damaged.. re hook it up the right way and check the fuses if there are any on the outside of the amp also check to make sure your getting +12 back there .. he mighta chose a dead ground area. and there was no voltage back there to fry it.. if so smack the hell outta your freind for being a idiot.

well if your pushing on the hatch where its flexing and loosing pressure then your not loosing pressure anymore from that area so your lack of db increase is due to your voltage drop/box rise and your amp making less power.

if voltage is crap at full tilt then your loosing power on top of pressure.. take a buddy with you and have him press against the glass during metering.