chewie

^^ not entirely true.. and how would it even it out if the coil is wrapped around? not on one side..

i got mine in less than three weeks. you could hook it up as mentioned above but id rather see what voltage my amp is ACTUALLY getting. not the common voltage of the car. you could run a wire from the amp to the front where the volt meter is. and switch it or use a relay and wire it into your head unit remote turnon so it comes on when your head unit comes on.. its a nice unit VERY clear display.. the background glows blue not super bright or harsh and the letters are highly defined black large numbers.. you could litearlly read it 10 feet away.. the biggest plus is that its no where near as bright as the stingers. i would highly suggest them.. there is also an adjustment screw on the back just like on the stingers. so if you have a highly accurate way of measuring you can match it.

you spun out a fwd car? in the rain none the less?

great seller.. quick shipment and item is in awesome shape.

under...

Do the big three upgrade and get yourself one GOOD main battery.. youll be set.

if your offroading alot and have heavy woofers you might wanna look into a sub facing upwards configuration. specailly if it jolts around alot.

um you dont have a frame.. you would be better off running a full length of ground.

thats easy enough to do with a test tone and a volt meter.

no youll be fine after the upgrade.. do all your grounding to the frame.. your mids and highs amp would be fine off the schosche wire but i would upgrade your amp wire..

editied a few times.. might wanna re read ^^^

because the body is a horrible ground.. your body is spot welded together a thousand times and your curent is trying to travel through those which is highly resistive (is that a word? anyways upgrade your big three. and ground the body or better yet ground the alt mount to the frame up front.. and then ground your amp to the frame.. your voltage issue will be GONE .. because grounding to a nice thick peice of steel is better than on a thin peice connected by tiny little spot welds.. you really shouldnt need a battery for that amp. if your getting voltage drop somethings wrong.. aka not having a big three done. trust me and save yourself some money.. go to knukonceptz and get yourself some wire for the big three. what wire do you have for your power wire now? is it some cheap install kit? if so order some new power wire. and enough wire to do the big three and the frame ground.. youll be happy you did. if your amp doesnt accept 0 guage then theres no need for it.. go on knu and get the OFC WIRE get the size you need and call it a day.

dude.. buy more wire and do the big three before you buy another battery... if you add a battery without upgrading your electrical your just adding to your problem

big three> battery>cap.. that amp doesnt draw enough to require another battery he would just be adding onto his problem.

doesnt the redtop have a higher discharge rate? if so that is better suited since he isnt draining it to make use of the deep cycle

you shouldnt really need it for that.. do the big three upgrade and get some good wire unless you have it already.. also upgrade your grounds. sierra as in truck? if so ground your up front battery to the frame and then ground your amp to the frame as well your gonna have to drill a hole though..

i would assume you could hook it up to a switch. just hook up a relay to trigger off your ignition and then run the power in off your amp and then the power out to the meter..

stinger meters are known to get vibrated outta spec but you can adjust them.. i always read directly from the amp inputs.. that way you see exactly what your amp is getting.

clean freq is cool it can be used either way.

they look promising for the price.. we shall see http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270687292731&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123 thoughts opinions ?

I still like the Sine Metering Device OR Sine wave Metering Device.

when you get a new battery get new terminals.. ebay shuriken bt100 get it lol

you need to get rid of those sorry ass battery terminals when you do the big three. and i suggest you take it easy on that amp. its not gonnna like that 11 volts for too much longer..

I see what you did there but what good is a device that only measures sine waves? its job is to detect square waves cause it measures sine waves and if there is a square wave it tells you.

this does not replace a dmm it replaces a oscope. i highly suggest investing in a dmm I was just on a topic about dmm's and when I switched over to this topic I was still thinking dmm when I meant to say oscope. Damn I'm thinking slow today lol you dont need a super expensive one.. a decent 30 and up dollar one will suffice.