jizazz12

that should sound good, lets know how you make out . good luck.

this ^, great roll off point and killer lows.but as said before depends on car/truck and personal preference.

it will help yes, have you done your big three upgrade? doing the big three is also a key component in helping your electrical system. if all your running in your system is what you have in sig. than the second battery and the big three is all you should need to help your voltage.

yes, for example if your box is tunned to 33 Hz you can set your amp to 23 Hz but like i said before every system is different just like everyones ear, so just tweak a little here and there until things sound good to you.

not bad for spray paint, and the logos look good to .

yes as a matter of fact you could tune 10 hertz below tunning and still sound good. it all depends on the set up, give a try and see what sounds best to you but i wouldn't go any lower than 10 Hz lower.

when you say good battery what do you mean? you want the XS in the back with your audio gear, keep the die hard up front as your stater. but here is some food for thought, even though your putting that XS battery in the back you don't want to throw it in the system with a very old week battery up front, if the die hard is old or not keeping a good charge you might want to think about getting a replacement for it because it may shorten the life of your secondary battery.

no they don't have to be the same brand just the same voltage.

good lord, wheres he going to put all those?

just run a + off of you starter battery to the + of your secondary,same for the - or you can ground - on second battery to chassis in rear of car/truck. make sure to fuse in between front and back batteries.

very very nice, was definitely gettin down.

this ^ subs back port back, you can also try subs back port to drivers side. there are other trhings that you can do as well that will help you gain some output for instance taking out your deck speakers and allowing some airflow in that way, but as said above subs forward and porting the rear deck is by far the best way to get max output out of a trunk set up that have seats that don't fold down.

you can do it that way but it's better to do it inside the box helps keep things tighty and neat.

stick with the 15's if you have enough space to do so, how about firing into the cabin and porting the rear deck.

welcome, truck looks nice man and it sounds like your off to a good start.

yes.

once you have figured out what subs you plan on using, take the specs of one of the subs and double it. for instance if one sub requires 2 cubic feet you are going to use four, after you have figured that out find a calc or go to psp.com and use theres to figure out how long your ports need to be.don't forget to factor all your displacement into the box size.

looking good man should be loud.

no fuse on the negative needed but you do need to ground the battery.

they make a good product, i use the crystal cable i have no complaints.

there a solid product, for the price and customer service you can't go wrong.

i use the psp 4" and 6" ports on my boxes great product. you will be fine with those elbows as a matter of fact i just usually go to home depot or lowes for the elbows. as far as putting both ports on the drivers side you could do that, but i don't think putting one on each side would hurt anything unless you plan on having your door open often.remember any time you open a door or window it's going to change your tunning regardless of where you put your ports. especially in the cab of a truck.

if it was me, i would grab a couple of elbows and put one on each side firing into the cabin. mounting depth on the lvl3 10's are 6.25 and your box kind of narrows some in the back, the elbows will give you the room you need to stay off that back wall and away from the bottom of the sub.

by the way he has that box built it looks like the seats are going back in. not going to be able to do an external port with the seat on top of the box.

if your on a tight budget in my opinion it would be better to see what's wrong with it and make a decision based on what you find out. most shops charge a bench fee and will add that to the cost of the repair should you decide to get it fixed. so if the repair ends up costing you 100.00 bucks lets say, your still ahead of the game versus kicking out lets say 250 or 300 on another amp.