02Blazer

im gonna go to this shop that is also a full machine shop , they pull your engine and fully rebuild your engine and warranty the engine and work , for around 1200.00 , i think thats a very good deal !!! . it's what i should of done in the first place when the original engine blew ......... but thanks , i think if i had a good size budget to work with , i would of got a built 22re from LC ENGINEERING .COM , they put out some badass engines , they also are very costly , too much for me ..................

yup , i recently put a used engine i bought of craigs list and had it installed in the toy ( in my sig ) , well it had a significant oil leak and some other undisclosed problems that i later found out the hard way , it lasted for about a month and a half (maybe less) and was runnin good , was draggin the shit out of it , thought you guys knew !!!! , went fishing all day and when i went to leave it was making ALOT of engine noise , kinda like my last engine before so bottom line is im gonna do it right this time and get a rebuilt engine and have them install it , YES , with a mother fu-kin warranty ..... hopefully within the next month or sooner , btw , before the engine blew i was getting ready to make some draggin video clips , as soon as i get the new engine in , i'll make some ............. :

well i don't need the RTV any more , THE FUCKIN ENGINE TOOK A SHIT ON ME !!!!!!! so now im gonna do it the right way and take it to a place where they put in a fresh rebuilt with a 3 year/ 30,000 mile warranty !!!!! so i just wasted close to a grand on that used motor and installation , i guess you live and learn ... so now im back to the drawing board ..........................

that looks like a major headache !!!! , the front end looks like it's not even there much less been modded with an updated front end . pass this one up .......

see if they (after market spring companies ; eibach, sprint , h&r , etc....) have a stiffer spring that has a higher weight load rating ..........

are those VIAIR 380's or 480's , or even if they are some other model , for instance , my 2 VIAIR 380's only draw 32 amps . so i think you have some other electrical issues , cause thats not that much of a draw on your battery ( equal to about a 300-500 watt audio amp ) . hope that helped........ btw , do not let your compressors run while the car is off , that can drain your battery some . if you have upgraded your electrical for a system (audio) , im pretty sure your getting a decent battery , right ? ,if you say yes , then that battery should be fine...................

you would have to be between 5'-5'5'' to fit and be able to drive that truck , im 6' 1'' , and i barely fit with the seat ALL the way back and nothing behind the seat . i couldn't even imagine having the seat up 8'' , i would be hugging the wheel .........................

ha ha , haven't seen a z-rack in quite some time !!!!!! back then that was the shit , that was truck dancing , with the heli-copter ( 360 degree rotating bed for all you young bucks !!! ) bed and a diamond ( scissor lift ) lift and a z-rack , hitting corners , front back , side-to-side , damn that seems like just yesterday , damn , im getting old !!!

air hopper yup , i keep telling everyone that im a die hard minitrucker ......................................

i seen those , they are for hydraulics ( or were made for a truck that had hydraulics ) they plated the shit outa them !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

check the date of last post before yours ..............................

i was gonna do the swap for my 84 s10 blazer , the one guy everyone was telling me to go to wanted like 10-11,000 , fuck that !!!!!

yes , it's alot more work than most people think . 3500 is actually a good deal , cause as the saying goes ,'' YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR'' . plus the hours put into doing it correctly and not hacking it or cutting corners is ALOT , and time is money !!!!!!!!!!

I checked into that (v8 swap) and they say there's alot of rules to doing it , you have to put in the same year or newer engine , not like an old hotrod , where you can throw in whatever you want , but here in california , we got strict smog laws and then you have to have it pass an inspection from a referee from the dmv , not just smog ..........

you know with the 6's , you will require more psi to acheive the same amount of lift of the 7's . that equates to a rougher ride . have you thought about taller cups ?? that way you dont have to compensate by putting higher psi to acheive a certain ride height , the cups will make up for it and you can go with lower psi , equaling a softer ride . i just think you can't get a better ride quallity by going smaller in bag size ......................

im runnin RE6's up front with 7's out back , i imagine my truck is alot lighter than yours !!! when driving i have 75-90 psi up front , to get full lock is about 110 psi . on the highway i run about 75 psi . out back i run 20-35 psi normally , with 20-25 psi highway . but take into account that i got a little 4 banger and a stock floor bed thats been sectioned a good 7-8''s !!! also , i was thinking about getting a 145-175 pressure switch , but it will only save me about 45 seconds (tank fill time) , so maybe not but i might want that extra psi for when i put in the parkers (3/4'') .just got to get some $$$ to do it , the fuckin fittings are gonna run about a hundred or so !!!!! I will only use the parker brass PTC's , i love those things , they are solid and heavy duty . so anyhow , all us minitruckers are some broke motherfuckers , so one of these days ....................... oh yeah , if you got the 4.3 in your s10 , i would not go for the RE6's , if your spring pocket is already cut for 7's , use them ( the 7's ) . the 6's have 10'' of lift , the 7's have 11'' , you know that extra inch seems like a lot when it comes to lift !!! hopefully, one of these days when i get a super lift ( bags on bar ) setup , i might try the RE8's ( 12'' of lift ) but that seems like it might be awhile away .................

yup , time to call nick !!!!!!! get them RE7's up front , RE8's out back on them bars ...............................

they dont make RS bags anymore ( excuse BIG P , he's riding on some OLD ass bags , j/k bro ) they are either RE ( single port , 200 psi ) HE ( dual port , 400 psi ) or XS ( dual port , 600 psi ) definitely go with the Slam Specialties bags , they are THE best you can get ( no, the dominators are not better ; less lift and not as good of ride ) don't worry about them holding up the weight of your engine , they use these bags all the time on crew cab duallies with heavy ass 454 big blocks !!!!!!.....................

x2 !!!!!!

like i said in the other thread , you need to not post things that you obviously do not much know about ............. btw , slam specialties does not have a 2500 or a 2600 , you are a little confused ................

$2000 is CHEAP for a body drop , even a traditional bodydrop starts at around $3500.oo , a stock floor bodydrop starts at around 5k ... but the thread starter has a uni-bodied CAR , with mcpherson struts , so installation is a helluva ot cheaper , but the parts are gonna be more expensive than say a minitruck , cause of the strut bag assemblies costing way more than bags and cups !!!!!

they sell alot of shit !!!!! and then try to rip you off if you try to return it cause they charge you a 35% restocking fee !!!! straight bullshit , NO BODY SHOULD EVEN THINK OF BUYING ANYTHING FROM THEM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i think your talkin about A.I.M or JUSTBAGIT.COM , cause those companies ( actually the same just different names) ARE A FUCKIN DISGRACE !!!!!!!!

to me bagging a truck is ALWAYS a good idea but if you go to 7'' out back im pretty sure your gonna have to notch it ( unless it already is notched ) i must assume you are gonna eventually bag the rear at a later time . my opinion is that anyone that static drops there truck wishes to or wants to bag it but cant unless its a leased vehicle that they dont plan on owning eventually or they dont have the money, time, or a shop that can do it right the first time and it be road worthy and dependable and SAFE!!!! so , my opinion is bag the front now and when you get more $$$ , do the rear . and dont put in some bolt in notch for the rear axle , cause if you do the front, YOU WILL WANT TO DO THE REAR so do a step notch , i know ,your gonna have to cut into your bed !! so think about it , take all things into consideration , and GO FOR IT