ROLEXrifleman

There is a huge diffrence between getting the job done right and just looking good. My tools are a mix between Hitachi, Dewalt and Makita. If i could afford it and they made all the tools I would use then I would go straight Snap On! Likewise in audio, one Mfg. doesnt make everything I'm happy with. And the ones that do I'm pretty sure I'm not willing to pay for Hope that made sense, its been a long day for me!

Oh... Pardon me. I must be in the wrong thread. I thought we were talking about this: Carry on gents!

Therer are several effective rounds out there. Speer is such a huge ammo company though you gotta wonder what type of $ break they gave agencies too! remember, it's not always teh best thing thats gets bought, usualy it's the lowest bidder!!!

180gr gold dots. I never take mentioning marksmanship for granted. Give a buster a glock and some ammo and he thinks he's Annie Oakley. kinda like every redneck with a Montecarlo thinks he's dale Jr.!

Here's what's in my magazines fwiw

You guys are funny! 1) SXT stands for Same Xact Thing when compared to teh old Talon rounds 2) Whats the difference between most of these rounds, MARKETING as 99% of them will get the job done if the following point is followed 3) NO ONE HAS MENTIONED SHOT PLACEMENT! I dont care what round you have in teh gun. If shot placement isnt right for the bullet to do its job it's all a worthless combination of equipment. 2 or 3 misplaced rounds of "self defense" ammo cant compete with 1 well placed round of anything! Regardless of whats in your magazine you need to practice!

If your running a stock alt youd better get that upgraded 1st. The 3 batteries will kill a stock alt with the load they will put on it. Sound like you need a good Alt and 1 good battery along with the Big 3 to make this work right. A 2nd bat is just insurance but 3 isnt needed.

Sorry for the late response man. I've been going nuts the last couple of days! As far as the Geissele goes, great trigger if you have that money to drop. In my opinion though, unless you are using thsi as a dedicated precision gun or a varmit rifle it's more than what you need. Even in 3 gun, its an awesome trigger, but ive seen guys win with others as well. I'm a big advocate in purpose built rifles. If thsi is our one and only AR and your trying to figure out what to get I wouldnt sugest this type of trigger as your big dollar purchase. There are other aspects of the rifle that will get you better bang for your buck results than this trigger. Building Ar's 101 isnt this thread so I leave that alone and tell you about triggers. There are 3 major parts of the trigger that deal with the pull weight and feel. 1) The Hammer Shelf 2) Sear 9 part of triger) 3) Spring weights Now these three things are different in quality by Mfg and Level of product. A pair of ported cylinder heads is going to have more attention to detail and build quality in a Lambo than a Camaro, get me? Here is a BRAND NEW RRA trigger group out of a LPK that I opened just for this. As you can see in this next picture a brand new Standard trigger does not have the attention to detail given to it as a higher end one. As you can see the front face of the trigger (the sear) has tooling marks all across it. It has a pronounced and sharp edge on top but it too will have the same marks on it. While this may be acceptable for a BATTLE rifle, a shooter who casualy uses his weapon on weekends for FUN NOT WAR will quickly become aware of it's faults. (Also remember, the SPIKES you were thinking of is this exact same trigger only with a finish coating on it. The "problem" isnt being truely addressed simple band aided, so to speak. Here is a complete picture of the trigger. The two red arrows show areas that should be polished to a mirror finish. But this isnt polishing you should do with a dremmel as the edge may become broken and issues with it's maiting to the hammer will arise. The more expensive teh trigger the more time is put into these areas. Simple bussiness, If i spend more money making a product it will cost more. This standard triggers are always within the $30-$60 range, Now the one thing not being address in the standard trigger pictures is the hammer. The hammer is no diffrent than the sear in regards to tooloing marks etc. The major diffrence though is that the hammer has what is called a shelf. This is where the sear sits. the longer (or taller) the shelf the less distance the sear has to travel b4 the trigger breaks. Now that we know that you can guess what type of shelp a standard trigger has..... yup a VERY long one. Why? For safety! A standard trigger is designed for a retarted HS drop out! Even in war the lawyers are present and safety plays a huge role in why some things are used over others. Anway, you combine a sear with tool marks to a long shelf with tool marks and what do you have? That "griity" "rough" "long" "hard" pull everyone complains about! And we havent even thrown springs into the mix. Actualy we wont even talk about those cause thats a bandage type fix for a bad trigger as well. Springs, in my opinion, should only be used in conjunction with some other type of trigger work NOT AS A STAND ALONE FIX. Anyway, lets get to what an expensive JP trigger looks like: This is a used one I took out of my rifle with 300 rounds on it. No tool marks, it has retained a sharp edge even after use and has a mirror finish. As a matter of fact you can even see the reflection of the words on my bore paste in it. Also, notice the set screws for take up and over travel. JP uses yellow to signify a reduced weight spring. Nothing standard about this trigger. And here we have a hammer. Again, notice where the differences are. No tool marks, polished and a sort shelf. All these things add up to determining what pull weight your trigger will be. The lower the weight, generaly the insafer it was in teh past. Not so anymore though, now we can have trigger pulls in the OZ that are totaly safe. Just make sure your bring a bid wad for that though. In the end i hope thsi info helps you make the decision thats right for you instead of going in blind. In my opinion your stock trigger with some work would put a huge smile on your face. If this rifle doesnt get shot that often i'd even say send me the FCG and let me work it over. Anyway, hope thsi helps. Sorry teh pics arent the best. i wanted to use my nikon with macro lense but since I sprung that leak the other day I've ben wrapped up. TTYL

I wouldn't waste my time with the spikes. It's a standard hammer and trigger with nothing more than a nickel boron coating. They rate it between 5-9#

are you proficient at taking your FCG out?

Who's trigger is that?

You have to ask a few questions to find out what your looking to do why/what do you want to change: ** does the trigger have a gritty feeling to it? ** is teh pull weight to much? ** is there to much take up or over travel? 9/10 most people are happy with a well worn trigger. If your gun has under 1000 rounds yo may benefit from simply putting lapping compund on the hammer and sear and speeding up the process of normal wear. I gotta make my kid lunch. I'll post up later about a few things

Again, I understand and agree with your thinking. The issue I see is the fact that: A) It doesn’t appear that this device is/was/ or ever will be designed or marketed as something portable B.) A proper DC power supply is needed to in home to properly test mobile audio amplifiers which adds another cost to the mix C) This device is designed to produce one measure: output power in Watts at a given load I understand what you are looking for in a product, it goes beyond what this one was designed to do. Could what you’re looking for be created, no question YES. Will it be; if so not by me. The point I'm attempting to make is I would not go about looking to have my idea come to fruition by dumping in a thread that's made to inform the masses of a product that is already in the works. It was even stated by Meade himself, a few things that should have caught people’s attention about this product back on page #1: Here's who's going to buy this product: A) Any car audio shop that has the funds available to build a proper test bench and will Dyno amps at a cost. Like a Hot Rod Shop: We'll dyno any amp for $XX in car set up, $XX bench set up and $XX per dyno pull. ( at least that’s how Id do it if I was still in a shop) B.) People like Myself, BigDWiz, HHR Ed, ETC... Who, for whatever reason, have the means and the desire for it Otherwise we already have test equipment that allows us to get the magic Wattage #. It's just not in a nice little package. Amp Clamps, VOM, Dummy Load boxes etc... we got it already Bottom line, is your product out there. Yup I just think you picked the wrong thread to post in about it. Even if you had started another thread in another sub forum some people might have jumped in just as they did here. Who knows?

I follow your train of though. And I agree with your assessment. I think though we are comparing two pieces of equipment with to completely opposite markets. The amp dyne fills the niche for those who are looking for a tangible measure of their amplifiers output under a controlled test so that they can show a number. Where as you are looking to collect dynamic data, in real time to monitor the performance of the system. I dont believe you fall into the category of the "average" car audio consumer thus you see the amp dyne as something that could be further refined to meet your needs. Again, I dont have a dog in this fight, I'm just trying to dissect both sides of the debate. As far as the bouncing lights go, again.... They fill a void in a market. They are accurate to an extent if properly used and that's great. But I'll stand by what I said earlier and claim the "average" ( for whatever that term is worth) consumer of that product it's accuracy is secondary when compared to its aesthetic attributes. Then again, what the hell do I know!

I think the debate comes in as music is a dynamic program what usable data can you gather while it is playing in car and what need is there for that data in a situation where you can't really tune. On the flip side who listens to sine waves, where this type of monitoring system does gave a purpose. Again, I'm trying to decipher where the conflict is and am concluding that the guys feel an instrument of this kind has very little value, not that it doesn't exist

thats a good one ill have to admit lol Thanks, I do my best to keep a high comedic value in my posts.

The old 2 piece units with the dash display!

^^^ He does now! lol

I think people noticed, it's just that no one wants to acknowledge s shit bag Luke that us amongst us.

1) Figure out what level you going to use. 0, -5, -10 2) DD-1 your deck 3) connect the deck to the 3sixty. Leave deck at highest uncliped level. Connect DD-1 to output of 3sixty and adjust the 3sixty gain till there is no clipping. 4) leave your deck at it's highest unclipped level. Leave the deck connected to the 3sixty, connect 3sixty to amplifiers(s). DD-1 output of amps 5) your done

^^^I have three of those too. LOL

Good luck! And by the way here come the leg humpers in 3..2........... LOL

DD-1 your radio output Connect to your 3sixty Leave your radio at it's highest unclipped level DD-1 output of 3sixty Connect to your amps DD-1 your amp output It's how I did the EPX2, time consuming but worth it. This thing has level LED's as well. With the tune everything was as it needed. The red clip light on the EPX2 does not come on. Not sure what your running but i was able to take a 4 volt out alpine and run it into my EPX2 and bring the voltage down to feed older Fosgate amps that only allowed for 3V in. Just sayin in case thats something your facing too.

If being a Douche Bag fir a hooker the day after prom was an Olympic Event I am sure we would be looking at the gold medal winner. Karma has a strange sense if humor and thatbike just might put him in this very place.