MECHMAN

See my comments above in capitols

Do not change the pullies, it is supposed to be that way. There is nothing wrong with having an extra rib on the pulley, it will still line up perfectly. We set it up that way for alignment purposes.

Yes, you can use any alternator you want for a multiple alternator setup.

That wiring will work fine. If you are using a chassis ground, make sure you go through the floor and go to the frame rail. Use the same side frame rail in the front as you use in the back.

Upon further inpection, the end of the motor appears to be very similar to the Northstar, the same bracket kit might fit with modification. You could look at the pattern of holes on the end of the cylinder head and the belt routing, and compare it to a northstar, the northstar kit might fit.

The 300+ comp series does about 60 amps at idle on a Honda/Acura crank pulley.

Not that I'm aware of. There wasn't anything for Northstar until about a week ago, LOL.

Awsome, glad you like it!

The best all-around unit for that setup would be our new 250 amp large case conversion kit for Hemi and Cummins diesel. It mounts in the stock location, and give you 165 amps at idle with 280 amps peak. That unit, with two D2400 or larger XS power batteries would supply those two amps easily. The kit is $499. 1-888-MECHMAN [email protected]

The doors arn't finished yet (I'm not doing the audio install) but I've heard there is going to be some SERIOUS mids in this thing. It's also going to have an inverter and tons of TVs. I'm sure there are quite a few Northstar Caddy owners out there that would be interested in one of these kits. It turned out looking pretty clean, I wish I could get the stuff back faster, I'm excited to post up some pics.

Well I just thought I'd throw out a little teaser on a project that I've been working on personally for the past couple weeks. I have a customer's vehicle from Houston that is having (4) 13W7's put in the back of his Deville. His current draw will be around 12,000 watts, and he just HAD to have dual alternators, even though I told him it would be quite an undertaking, as there is virtually NO room on that engine. Here's a pic of the accessory end of the engine. Believe it or not, I have developed a dual kit that bolts on in about an hour with basic hand tools. The kit will work with twin 250 amp Rhino series units, OR twin OEM units. BEFORE AFTER

It usually get one shipment per month. I still have some 3100's in stock.

Send it back and we will inspect it. If it is a component failure, we will repair it under warranty. Just from what I read though, I would be willing to bet that we put it on the dyno and it works just fine.

You need a Zero gauge cable running from the positive output stud from the alternator to the positive terminal of the battery. You need a Zero gauge cable running from the negative stud on the alternator to the negative terminal of the battery. The vehicle's stock plug plugs into the pigtail on the alternator. That's it. You can leave your stock positve alternator wire hooked up the the output stud also, it really doesn't matter either way. Leave all your factory grounds in place. Disconnect all the other batteries to simplify the situation for troubleshooting. Place your front battery on a PROPER charger overnight, it should rest out around 13.0 Volts. When you start the vehicle, take a handheld multimeter and measure the voltage at the positive and negative studs on the alternator. With the engine running, the voltage should come up from 13.0 volts (engine off) to 13.8 - 14.2 volts (engine on) Your voltage readings in either case should be almost exactly the same regardless if you measure them at the alternator, or at the battery. If they are different by more than a tenth of a volt, you have a bad connection poor cabling.

I can do D3100's for $349 shipped each, that is the lowest shipped price you will find ANYWHERE. Let me know ASAP, as I just got a pallet of them in, and I only have 8 left. They sell out quick, and because of the demand, I end up waiting forever for my next shipment to come in. I have a very stong Rhino 250 alt for the 2003 GM, they do about 270 amps peak with over 160 amps at idle. They are $399. Two 250 amp alts and the dual bracket, belt, idler and hardware kit is $998 shipped. Buy it all together and I will throw in the extended service plan for free. ($138 value for both alts) There is a 3 year free replacement sevice plan on the batteries. Thanks Matt 1-888-MECHMAN [email protected]

If it sounds too good to be true, it usually is.

Holy crap. Does anyone use puntuation anymore? My head hurts from reading these posts.

Right on. Glad you were able to make the comp. We can easily set you up with a twin voltage system, that's what I run on my truck.

We got your unit in today, looked about as I had expected. If your batteries were fully charged, and you truly had the voltage set at 14.5 volts, set at 2000 rpm under light load, (not at idle with no load) I would say there could be something wrong with the regulator. Whatever caused it, the unit was obviously running at 100% output for well over an hour to discolor the internals as badly as they are. I didn't realize you were running it externaly regulated untill I spoke to you on the phone. You have to be VERY carefull about how you set your regualtor, otherwise you will experience what you saw in the video. Also, anyone with a multiple battery setup should be placing their battery bank on a high quality computer controlled battery charger overnight periodically. This is just a common sense, easy way to make life easier on both the batteries and the alternator. (and increase your overall voltage at the same time) We have some used 1005 XS power chargers on special right now if you don't already have a good charger. If you have any questions about how to set the regulator, feel free to give us a call. I would really hate to see another unit burn up like the one we got in today.

Just added some more stuff, check out our E-bay store to find some good deals on Powermaster, all of them are 40% off closeout.

Any highoutput alternator will eventually overheat if it operates at full output for too long. You either had the setpoint of the reulator set to high, (causing the alternator to run wide open even though there is no load on it) or you have a bad or discharged battery somewhere in the bank. It is also important to note that the big bank of batteries you run in that truck will draw 60-80 amps by themselves just to maintain them at 14.5 volts, before you ever even turn on the system. Send it in and we will turn it back around to you the same day.

I replied to your e-mail. Also, the included instruction sheet will have all of the info as well. Thanks Matt

Yup- We have a great 150 amp DynamoXL kit, almost full output by 900 rpm, KILLER output even as low as 500 rpm engine speed - $375 200 amp ProPower series, 125 amps by 800 rpm, - $449 Both are complete bolt in large case conversion kits, includes the alternator, adpater plug, and adapter bracket. Thanks Matt

Awsome- I'm glad we met your expectations. Matt