95_1500

It means more power for your system Perfectly safe.. Which batt are you considering, d680?

Depends on your budget, stock battery size and how big of a system youre pushing...

Damn... More of a tease than padded bra.. I will say if i took her pants off and saw one of those i would die laughing

I would disconnect and remove the battery.. Filling it with water would probably be fine but i wouldnt risk it spilling again. Just disconnect it, tape the terminals and remove it. Worry about it after you get back from the party, that battery could potentially drain your starting batt and you not be able to make it home tonight Just what I would do...

Not positive but sealed vs vented probably has an impact on impedance rise... Dont have experience with the 5002 but like said before do it at your own risk and don't be surprised if it blows

Some amps can handle .5 but not sure about the T5002... Your rise will most likely be above 1 ohm so you should be fine but its always at your own risk running less than stable ohm loads. If you do it do like Jared said, go easy on the gain and absolutely NO bass boost

http://www.mcmaster.com/#metals/=52udsp

No risk at all... Power stops at the input terminals unless the remote wire sees 12v If the amp was on that would be a different story

Pretty sure how you described is correct.. It switches the polarity for say if you have your sub inverted, instead of switching the + and - at the amp you can just turn phase to 180.

LMAO thats awesome

LAWL.. Theres only three words to describe people like this... Waste of sperm... Mom shouldve had an abortion

Just means youre really reading 2 ohm.. My meter reads .3 with the leads touching so when i measure my amp load it reads .8 instead of .5

Agreed the second would probably be much better. I have a special kind of blowthrough with 2 15's in the window- my first box laid back with the port at the top and i wasnt impressed with it at all, current one is much louder. Id go with the wedge

Dammmnnnn... Wonder how much power they wouldve taken had that not happened.

Detaillllllssss????

No problem man. PM me if you have anymore questions later on

Word.. I see DC power Kyle in here so maybe he can answer some questions better than I did

Yeah mine is at about 90k right now... Lets just say your 33" tires robbed you of way more power than the alts will lol. Like people are posting about DC power.. Id give them a call and ask about a bracket before building one unless its just something you wanna do. I wanted to make one and since i have 2 alts with mismatched mounting ears i didnt think id find one from a company.

Easiest way to measure is use a piece of string that doesnt stretch. Make sure you run it through the same groove on all the accessories and mark it then measure. You can get idler pulleys from autozone advance napa w/e. I chose to use the bearings like Iraggi because of the limited space between the alts. Honestly i dont notice any power loss. 5.7L 350 can run 2 alts no problem without noticing a difference

You would

In a sense but your alts are smaller in diameter with larger pulleys so you may need about a .5" shorter belt but yeah it should be close to that. Also depends on the diameter of the idler you use

These are for 99+ which have the vortec with the alt on the passenger side

Mine was 109" but it all depends on how the alts are mounted, where your idlers are and how many.

Alright gotcha... Well if your alt is on the driver side then it shouldnt be a problem to copy mine to fit your alts. Mostly the way its mounted to the stock alt mount. Youll obviously have to design the bracket to fit your small case alts.

You have a 95 k1500 like i do. I built mine its not really hard to do. Check out my build log in my sig go to page 16. I dont know what 2 alts you have but mine are both CS-144 large case with 2 diff style mounting ears.. If you have a vortec the engine was either swapped or its not a 95. Vortec didnt come out til 96. Your alt should be mounted on the pass side top whereas mine is on the driver side