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necromonster

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About necromonster

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    120db

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    billings, mt

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  1. looking for an subwoofer T/S param import file.... for a skar 18" ZVXv2 dual 1 ohm VC. the software will allow a subwoofer file import for the T/S parameters for plotting in the software. Anyone got one, or willing to export your own param file for me?
  2. how do i get 18+ access

    ?

    1. SnowDrifter

      SnowDrifter

      It's closed right now. But a good place to start would be to read the previous admittance threads to make sure you're not asking any previously answered questions

    2. necromonster

      necromonster

      I did a search for "18+" and got wayyy to many posts about 18in subs. After the 34d page of subwoofer posts I gave up and just asked

    3. SnowDrifter

      SnowDrifter

      It's the first forum section under misc stuff

  3. has anyone used or know of someone who has implemented a motorized adjustable round port? i have an idea, but was hoping someone else has tried it so i can learn from their experience. the port would somehow be able to lengthen or shorten from motor action to adjust enclosure tuning...
  4. So i pulled the trigger on a pair of ZVXv2 18's a few weeks ago. With that being said, what are everyone's enclosures they' ve used with these. looking for ideas. i have a recommended enclosure from skar audio. and just want to broaden my options. ill be using a Taramps MD8000.1 with appropriate electrical to push those puppies. so any ideas are welcome!
  5. i ended up getting 2 Skar ZVXv2 18's dvc1 ohm. took the excess 200 and bought some electrical connectors, battery terminals, fuses, and 2/0 wiring.
  6. I want the better of the two series for low lows. <20hz ill be giving them a md8000.1 amp with good electrical
  7. If you had $1000 for subs, what would you get and why?
  8. $1000 for subs... dont know what to get?!?!?!

    1. Kyblack76

      Kyblack76

      For 1? 2? 12 ?

  9. so after some testing the pin out is as follows. on the plug side there are 4 wires with different colors. (black, red, green, yellow) the green wire is the "CLIP" indicator signal the red wire is the "ON" signal the black wire is the "PROTECT" indicator signal the yellow wire is the "GROUND" signal
  10. You can get the same information most of the SMD tools can get you, much much easier on your pocket book with some math, and oscilloscope, and 1 or 2 multimeters. The prices of some entry level o-scopes are quite low in comparison to what they used to be... And about 20lbs lighter too... Learning how to use the o-scope can open your electronics knowledge up to many many other fields of interest too. I bought 2 o-scopes from a ham radio buddy of mine a few years agof for $30 And last year I bought a ds-nano pocket o-scope on Amazon for $109 Between my job as a copier tech, my ham radio hobby, and car audio passion I've found a lot of the knowledge to be interchangeable. As for the OP's question I've always thought if you could measure your current draw and output voltage you could calculate a rough estimate of power. Of course that would be at 100% efficiency, and we All know an amplifier like that doesn't exist. But it may be close enough for your application.
  11. Thanks Ron. I don't know why I thought I could get an 8ohm final load.... Talk about a massive brain shart... Id normally call it a brain fart, but that was so far into left field it qualified as a shart... Lol thanks. I decided just to wire to 1 ohm and used ohms law to figure out an amp output voltage target that exceeds my total subwoofer RMS by 25%. I then checked it out with my o-scope for clipping @ max normal listening volume. All was well. I installed a voltmeter in my dash to keep an eye on my system voltage to make sure my current output doesn't pull my voltage below 13v .I know the amps ratings we're measured @12.6, and with such a high "minimum" voltage I run should be ok on stock alt until next week when I get my 370amp installed. Now that I've gone an rambled a bit..........But thanks again for the reply
  12. So I bought the Taramps md8000.1 and the non premier version doesn't come with the m1 LED monitor. It's basically a remote LED indicator for the power, clip, and protect LED's on the amplifier. The jack for the monitor looks like it's a standard 4 pin phone jack (rj11) Does anyone know the pinout of the jack? I'm thinking about building a separate box with my own LED's instead of forking out the $50 for one from taramps. I'll probably just take a phone cord, cut it and strip a few inches off of each individual wire inside the cable. That way I can test the voltages with a multimeter as the LED's light up on the amp to map out the pins if anyone else on here hasn't done so already.
  13. hey there guys! im getting a md8k 1ohm. it is WAY more power than my subs can handle. i was wanting to wire the subs to 8ohms to limit power consumption and wattage output by the amp to run the amp a little easier. they are 4ohm dvc's. i have two subwoofers. they are capable of 1250watts rms each. any suggestions on how i should wire the subs or any info on taramps md8000.1 @ 8ohm? i also was thinking i could run 1 or 2 ohm setups and just back the gain down to match the rms of my subs. ??? im a n()()B so be easy on the banter please.
  14. Yeah I can get a skar that more accurately meets my needs for just a bit more than I spent on the pioneer. It'll be a nice trainer amp for my own repairs.
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