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k58.cross

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k58.cross last won the day on February 20

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About k58.cross

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  1. Move outa your fucking neighborhood bro. No one should have to be that cautious. If you can afford a gun and a sound system, you an afford to go somewhere peaceful. Second, the less guns in the world the safer the world is, get rid of the bullshit.
  2. I am taking a very simple approach by setting my gain once with the bass knob at about 2/3, then using the bass knob with clipping indicator on it as a "variable overlap".
  3. If you can fit it in the amp's terminals! You might need reducers for that. Alternative, run the 1 gauge to the fuse holder, then 4 gauge out the other side of it to the amp (short distance between fuse holder and amp).
  4. Adding a second battery is adding another tank of juice, and the load will be shared among the batteries. All you need to do is plug them into a charger once in awhile, because the alternator isn't going to keep both batteries charged while you're hammering on your system. But like Ky said, if the drop isn't that bad you don't really need to add anything. You might want to put your starter battery on a charger once in awhile though. Just watch your voltage and if you see drops below 12 definitely charge up.
  5. Did your friend Graham make that? Glue job is kinda sketchy though. And it could use some chocolate bracing and marshmellow polyfill.
  6. Well that Audiofrog one says in the description "select a 2 or 8 ohm configuration" and it's DVC4 so yeah just a series/parallel switch. The JBL one is weird though, 2 or 4 ohms....It has to be switching in and out power components of some kind, that's certain because you can't change impedance otherwise and the components have to be able to handle the power. My guess is quad coils, 2 parallel sets of 4 ohm and 8 ohm, and the switch switches between the two parallel sets.
  7. You won't see 1000W due to impedance rise. You can use a test tone and measure volts and amps out of the amp while adjusting gain and set it for around 600W. Then as you play, get out every so often and check how hot the subs are getting. I think having more headroom in your source power than the load will draw is a good thing. You just need to set the source up to not kill the load.
  8. It just like died with no resolution and reading the story I felt compelled to reply lol.
  9. Can you elaborate? Why wouldn't it work? Another option is to make your own clipping indicator, for which there's plenty of tutorials on the web. You just need some basic electronics knowledge. Then set your gain backed off of clipping on the loudest volume you'll play your system at. From there, watch the indicator and make judgements if you need to tune the gain further. To be clear though, I'm not knocking the DD1. If you have the money, go for it because it will simplify the process and is cheaper than a scope. Steve's videos point out that although a scope shows you everything about the signal, you need to know what distortion actually looks like. The DD1 has a simple light that blinks and tells you to back off. Now, is it too sensitive and can a quality system handle some soft clipping and minor distortion in exchange for more output? That's a judgement call.
  10. Dude you must have a wire SPAGHETTI from what I have read so far. I feel your pain, this system should not be giving so much trouble like you are experiencing. I'm running two Sundown U-12 D2's wired to 0.5 on a Nendo 4k. Two XP2000 batteries paralleled to my stock car battery and stock alternator. Solid voltage above 14 almost all the time unless it's a big bass drop and I have the volume cranked. This is all in a little unibody Ford Fiesta. No real issues with the system. I used a scope to set my gain initially, and I watch the bass knob clipping light. I'm probably babying it because I haven't really smelled glue yet. The wiring though....One run of 1/0 between the back batteries (need to double check this, might have a double run here), double 1/0 from the back batteries to the amp, double 4 gauge from the front stock battery to the back ones. Same ground runs as power runs. Bing bang boom.
  11. Keep in mind that different songs have the bass EQ'd at different levels. Even though you set the gains once, you can still get clipping. Only way to know live is to use a clipping indicator such as on certain bass knobs. My Crescendo amps have them.
  12. Hey this brings up a question on power vs. port area. To calculate port area should you use nominal power or power after impedance rise at some frequency?
  13. Need port length too though mane. I am too lazy to put his subs in the program.
  14. I came out of lurking to point this out haha. Ain't gonna shake the earth with 500W Kickers. Even being 15's doesn't save the situation. Another huge variable is your box, that can make or break it all. You could be clipping to the sub and not even hear it too. My bass knob has a clipping indicator and when it goes off I usually can't hear a difference in the sound. If you actually hear it, you're clipping hard. Soft clipping can still build up heat and risk blowing your kickers.
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