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k58.cross

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k58.cross last won the day on February 20

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About k58.cross

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  1. k58.cross

    Subwoofer box way too small

    Well to give you an idea, my car is a little compact Ford sedan (the Fiesta lol). In that trunk I was able to fit a box 28"x24"x15" holding two 12's and a 19" long 8D aeroport, but the port stuck out half way of the box and I had to keep my back seats down. That box is over 5 cubic feet not counting the subs and port.
  2. Why is there risk of destruction though? I'm trying to ask for a technical explanation of what happens. Like here I will try to use some logical deduction: * Assume subs are completely in phase, because time delay between the two can lead to cancelling waves. * Two 2 ohm coils will get the same voltage as the series-combo of the 1 ohm coils, since all is in parallel. However, the two series 1 ohm coils will split the voltage they get. BUT since those coils are physically fixed to each other, shouldn't that split voltage combine back up anyway? * As long as the subs are in phase and cone displacement is roughly the same, there should be no electrical or mechanical opposition between the two subs and output will be normal. * IF one sub has different cone displacement than the other, will that negatively affect operation? This question goes into fluid dynamics I think, because you're dealing with air compression systems both in a chamber and in "open space". I'm looking for answers beyond people just saying it's "common knowledge". I kinda think people are just going off of what each other has been saying for awhile, which doesn't necessarily make it an absolute truth.
  3. k58.cross

    Subwoofer box way too small

    I don't know a whole lot about imaging, but I think Steve Meade generally says that mids and highs in the front of the vehicle is all that's needed, and back speakers didn't contribute a lot. I can't really say though because I haven't done a lot of that. My rear doors definitely add fill, but louder fronts probably would have too. My bro's car with 6x9's in the rear deck had a nice sound though. Let us know how that works out!
  4. I am necromancing this thread. I have a dvc 2 ohm and dvc 1 ohm sub of the same make/model. According to the manual the t-s params are essentially the same for both subs. I could get a final 0.7 ohm load by wiring the dvc 1 ohm coils in series to make 2 ohms, then that in parallel with the other 2 ohm coils (so parallel combo of 2:2:2). If I did this and put them in a 2x12 box I already have made and power from a monoblock that I know can handle the load, will it work or will I get cancellations? I know there's statements such as "they will get different power", but can I get the info from someone who has tried this or knows someone who tried it? I did do something similar in the past. Two Type-R 12's which were one generation apart. They were the same DVC 4 ohm, but different physical constructions altogether so the t-s params had to be different. I had no issues pounding the shit out of them.
  5. k58.cross

    Subwoofer box way too small

    I used these numbers in Winisd and got something that should work. It's not all the t-s parameters, but I think it was enough. I also used Triticum's port area calculator to get a ballpark for how big the port should be. The only issue with his calc is that the port areas get large for high power, resulting in the need for a very long port or very large box. So I cut a middle ground... Volume: 4 cubic feet (113.3 Liters) Port: 8 inch diameter, 22 inches long Tuning comes out to around 35 Hz. Response will be a little peaky at port tuning due to the extra volume, but you need the extra volume in order to compensate for the larger port, which is needed to minimize port compression, which results in dB loss. I can't provide dimensions for the box though because I don't know what your vehicle can fit sorry. That should be easy with some basic math though, just account for the used up volume of the sub and port. Cheers edit - But damn, 50mm xmax that's way more than my sub lol. That thing will slam dude.
  6. k58.cross

    Current/Voltage Help?

    Damn all this time I had not considered that aspect of current ratings vs wire gauge. I knew it was because the wire will heat up, but there's a whole dimension not being considered - time. Those ratings you see on a wire gauge ampacity chart are for continuous current. So even though 1/0 can be rated 300A for 13 feet continuous, it should be able to handle bursts of 500A without melting. None of us play our systems at full tilt constantly, but we still tend to size our wire like we do.... Sorry to hijack the thread, this is an interesting topic for another day though.
  7. k58.cross

    Subwoofer box way too small

    It looks fun actually and I'd try to model it, but I can't find all the t-s params for the 555 model. Do you have them? I can find the SPL model specs easily though.
  8. k58.cross

    Current/Voltage Help?

    The rectifiers themselves don't produce current, they only pass it along. They're one directional and will turn the AC into pulsed pseudo-DC. He must have been talking about changing out the stator winding. That could allow more current by changing the winding ratio between rotor and stator or bigger wire, yada yada. In any case, you're way better off buying a unit designed for a specific current than trying to upgrade a smaller unit. It's like if put a steel toe in a running shoe, sure your toes are protected, but the rest of the shoe is still soft and fragile.
  9. k58.cross

    Hds3.1 12 box help

    Do you have the sub's ts parameters? I couldn't find a manual in Google. Need those to properly model a box.
  10. k58.cross

    Subwoofer box way too small

    That is an insane sub man. 3 kW rms right? 50 liters is only 1.77 cubic feet, wayyyyy too small for that kind of power. Custom box build definitely. You might want like 3 extra batteries... Research your butt off and do this build properly, that's a lot of power to be playing around with.
  11. k58.cross

    JL AUDIO 1000/1 clipping

    Both signal voltage level into the amp and the amp gain setting contribute to clipping. Clipping happens when the output voltage capability of the amp is exceeded. That happens when you try to drive it too high via either a high volume, high gain, or a song who's frequency mix is too high in some region (bass EQ'd high for example). Recommendations: Flatten your EQ and turn off all "bass boost" options both on the deck and your amp. Using the highest volume you like to listen at and the music track you know hits especially hard, set your amp gain a little below the clipping point.
  12. k58.cross

    Current/Voltage Help?

    Since no one answered your question about the stock alternator amperage, I'll say it's very unlikely that a stock 80A alternator has secret potential to do 250A given a change of rectifiers. Output current of the alt is mainly limited by the output voltage of the alt, which is dependent on hard design elements such as number & strength of poles in the rotor, stator winding loops, spinning speed, etc. If more current was trying to be pulled than the rectifiers are rated for, they'd get hot and likely fail. They could act as a bottleneck yes, but one that leads to damage when it gets blocked up. One other note, you can't take a resistance measurement in a live circuit. A multimeter works by injecting a known current, measuring the voltage, and then calculating the resistance. So if there's already a power source in the circuit, your reading will be off. If you really want to know the resistance of a particular point on the car back to the battery, you need to disconnect the battery and then measure resistance from your point of interest back to where the battery was connected to the frame.
  13. Tuned in! Hella interesting, I haven't seen a concrete and steel build before.
  14. Crude diagram incoming lol. I was thinking about it and I think you'd want to avoid mixing grounds.
  15. k58.cross

    Ported box

    2kW max, it's a Walmart sub. Hope you did not pay the $290 retail price listed on their website my friend. If you want a sub for under $300 that can actually do close to 2kW RMS: https://www.down4soundshop.com/27-series-up-to-1700-rms/
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