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k58.cross

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k58.cross last won the day on February 20

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  1. It just like died with no resolution and reading the story I felt compelled to reply lol.
  2. Can you elaborate? Why wouldn't it work? Another option is to make your own clipping indicator, for which there's plenty of tutorials on the web. You just need some basic electronics knowledge. Then set your gain backed off of clipping on the loudest volume you'll play your system at. From there, watch the indicator and make judgements if you need to tune the gain further. To be clear though, I'm not knocking the DD1. If you have the money, go for it because it will simplify the process and is cheaper than a scope. Steve's videos point out that although a scope shows you everything about the signal, you need to know what distortion actually looks like. The DD1 has a simple light that blinks and tells you to back off. Now, is it too sensitive and can a quality system handle some soft clipping and minor distortion in exchange for more output? That's a judgement call.
  3. Dude you must have a wire SPAGHETTI from what I have read so far. I feel your pain, this system should not be giving so much trouble like you are experiencing. I'm running two Sundown U-12 D2's wired to 0.5 on a Nendo 4k. Two XP2000 batteries paralleled to my stock car battery and stock alternator. Solid voltage above 14 almost all the time unless it's a big bass drop and I have the volume cranked. This is all in a little unibody Ford Fiesta. No real issues with the system. I used a scope to set my gain initially, and I watch the bass knob clipping light. I'm probably babying it because I haven't really smelled glue yet. The wiring though....One run of 1/0 between the back batteries (need to double check this, might have a double run here), double 1/0 from the back batteries to the amp, double 4 gauge from the front stock battery to the back ones. Same ground runs as power runs. Bing bang boom.
  4. Keep in mind that different songs have the bass EQ'd at different levels. Even though you set the gains once, you can still get clipping. Only way to know live is to use a clipping indicator such as on certain bass knobs. My Crescendo amps have them.
  5. Hey this brings up a question on power vs. port area. To calculate port area should you use nominal power or power after impedance rise at some frequency?
  6. Need port length too though mane. I am too lazy to put his subs in the program.
  7. I came out of lurking to point this out haha. Ain't gonna shake the earth with 500W Kickers. Even being 15's doesn't save the situation. Another huge variable is your box, that can make or break it all. You could be clipping to the sub and not even hear it too. My bass knob has a clipping indicator and when it goes off I usually can't hear a difference in the sound. If you actually hear it, you're clipping hard. Soft clipping can still build up heat and risk blowing your kickers.
  8. Crescendo Symphony S1 Monoblock! 1500Wrms for $300, footprint the size of a Brazilian amp, and you can wire lower than 1 ohm as long as your sub is near the rating of the amp. I ran a DB-SA2712 at 0.5ohm nominal on this amp with absolutely no problems. Crescendo ALLLL day man. I am trying to sell mine because I upgraded to the Bassclef 4k, but I can't post it for sale yet because my post count is too low. On a different (completely unrelated) note, I noticed my PM box here is completely functional.
  9. There will be specific frequency band in the bass spectrum where power draw is highest. You can download an app on your phone that's a signal or tone generator and just go through the frequencies until you see highest power draw. That's actually your worst case. The loudest bass notes are typically at port resonance and power draw will be low there (which is a good thing). Your voltage dropping to 12.5 just means you used your alternator's current up and now you're drawing from the batteries as well. Adding another battery won't bring you back up to 14+ just FYI. Three batteries for 4kW...I don't know if that's excessive, but extra juice is always good. Each battery has a limit to how much instant current it can let out, so more batteries will let you handle those bursts better. It's up to you how much money you wanna spend and what you have room for.
  10. These cells say 3C continuous, so does that mean 3*60=180A continuous discharge rating? How about short duration discharges? Could it safely discharge 300A over say 1 second?
  11. Seems like nowdays people only really use caps for burps in SPL comps. Difference between cap and battery is that a cap discharges and charges much faster, so good for those hard and fast BUUURRPPP uses. But on a daily driver, I think you're way better off just supplementing with batt power.
  12. Ah so you want to have your port coming out of the top of the box? That's possible with aero ports, and maybe you don't need to bend, check this example pic: My system is in dissaray right now because I'm renovating it a bit and making things look better. I got my box done though and this is how I have it set up: It's a compromise though. I know I need more port area for the power I'm trying to run. It's a small car though so just doing what I can for now.
  13. OP, use what you got and focus on making a good enclosure. Instead of trying to throw a ton of power at it right away, figure out how to get the most of your system first, and then move up in power, otherwise it's wasted potential. Stop flex wherever you can in the vehicle, it's lost SPL. That's why the loudest SPL vehicles are built like tanks. Put in a dedicated volt meter and watch how much your battery voltage drops during normal use. If you regularly dip under 12, you need an extra battery.
  14. Impedance changes greatly by frequency, and so does power draw. Low power draw doesn't always mean low SPL, because the system draws less power when it's operating efficiently and/or resonating. When you clamped, did you do it at the frequency where power draw is highest? If not, go back to low-medium power and sweep frequency while watching power draw. The highest power draw will probably be at a frequency that doesn't sound very loud, like 65 Hz or something. Clamp there.
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