Dafaseles

dude built this. He's an electric engineer I think.... even he won't go near the back when he's going full tilt lol. He has a bunch of other videos on the install as well

I agree with you, but I think the days of huge SPL systems will be gone. I feel like with electric cars come ultra efficient, decent wattage (not super high wattage) SQ oriented systems. Especially how auto makers are integrating everything through these gody huge head unit screens. Also, you have to convert (at least right now) the 400 volt battery system down to 12 volt. That's no safe task. For smaller systems, not a huge deal. I just want my alternator 🤣

I'm not buying an electric car until I'm too old to enjoy myself.... so like....75?

The same way. Find your head unit max volume with a 0 db overlap. Any EQ's or whatever before the amplifiers, also with a 0 db overlap. Your highs amp, use your -3 db overlap. Then use your -8 for the sub amp. You can even double check if it's done correctly. Set your highs and sub amp up using the -3, then re-setup your sub amp using the -8. There should be a slight difference in the amount of gain you can give it between the -3 and the -8

Any aftermarket amplifiers?

Welcome!

I was thinking the same thing about the port, but I don't know a much about box design. I didn't want to say anything about it and be wrong lol

That's a lot.... Well, there could be many different reasons why you're not getting the output you want. How many cubic feet of airspace do you have inside the box? What is your box tuned to? If it's tuned too high, or too low, that can hinder output. How did you set your gain on your amp? If the gain isn't set right, you'll never get the output you want. What are your crossover settings on the amp? If your subsonic and low pass filter (LPF) isn't set correctly, you could be cutting off frequencies you need. How many amps is your aftermarket alternator? And what brand is it? I see the cap (which you should ditch to be honest) but what battery are you running? 1 or 2? The big 3 is upgrading your positive cable from your alternator to your battery. Then battery negative to the frame or chassis (depending on where your amplifiers are grounded) and then from battery negative to the engine block/ alternator. Not your starter. So you could have bottlenecks in your electrical, causing voltage drops. My buddy has a mega cab, behind the backseat he has a single JL W7 in a 2 cubic foot box (net). There is a lot of space back there, so building a box big enough should be doable. He has his single 12 firing sideways toward the drivers side, along with the port firing the same direction. No, you can't hear him blocks away (which is kind of impossible unless you have way more subs and power) but you can definitely hear him pull up.

Abuse, regular use..... tomato, toe-mah-toe

So clean!

I can't wait to see that done. I wish my mind had style like that

Yessir

Yes, just make sure your speakers are disconnected or you run the risk of damaging them

Those 3 ways look so good.

Damn those look good!

Dude, absolutely perfect. Fits right into a luxury vehicle. Top notch work. That aluminum really pulls out all together in my opinion. I'm sure it will sound as good as it looks.

I want one of those shirts! (Along with the black license plate shirt on the website.... I'll order one soon, been busy)

Looks like it could be stock. So clean!

I don't think you where bottoming out. That sub on a 1500 watt amplifier playing regular music shouldn't be an issue at all. If you want to get technical, after impedance rise, that sub was lucky to see 1000 watts, if it even ever saw that. With the gain way below the distortion point, the sub should never get warm and smelly. That's your coil getting too hot and working towards failure. I don't think your box is too big. On average, seasoned box designers I've spoken to say they have no problem going 20% bigger than the manufacturers specifications. Your box is almost perfectly 20% bigger than the manufacturer recommendation. There's something else going on. Have you checked your amplifiers ground with a multimeter to just double check to make sure it's a good spot? There are tons of videos on YouTube explaining how to do so. How far away from the enclosure is the back of the motor off the sub? If it's too close, the subwoofer won't be able to get air into the voice coil to properly cool it. Hand you checked the impedance of each voice coil separately to make sure they read near 2 ohm each, and read somewhat similar?

Just the shape of it looks so good! I'm fucking jealous!

Poly-fil is really only used to "trick" the subwoofer into thinking it's in a bigger enclosure than it is. I don't think you'd need that

The reason I asked about the big 3, and if the problem happens after listening for a while is voltage drop. The fact that you say it happens immediately leads me to believe it's not the case. It's a good thing you grounded to s nice, steel piece, but it's more about the path of getting that spent energy back to the alternator. You want to get rid of bottlenecks. That's why the big 3 is such a big deal. Especially the grounds. At the very least, I would add a nice thick wire from the battery negative to the chassis, and another from the negative to the engine block. This probably won't fix your problem, but it's just s good idea. So, there's a couple other reasons you might be hearing a sound that sounds like the subwoofer is distorting or bottoming out. I don't think you're overdriving the sub and I don't think that enclosure is too big to the point the subwoofer suspension is losing control of the cone. So I don't think it's bottoming out. There's a thing called lead slap or tinsel slap. It happens when the leads that connect to your speaker terminals on the subwoofer actually hit the cone when in motion. It's usually a factory defect. I've heard of people using those little felt sticky circles people use on the bottoms of their kitchen chairs to fix this problem. Another is the enclosure itself is bad. Maybe a loose corner or edge that has a leak, and/ or is vibrating against another part of the box, making a terrible sound. Unfortunately, it's a hard thing to pinpoint.

That's good that it sounds good to you. That's always the number one thing, but you should be able to run your gain at where the DD-1 tells you with no issue. Some things come to mind. What kind of vehicle is this in? How do you have the amplifier grounded? Are you using OFC wire? Or CCA? Have you done the big 3 upgrade? Can you play full tilt when you first start the vehicle, but then start clipping later in the drive? Is this a prefab box? Did you build it? Did a shop build it?

So.... are those speakers going to be sticking that far out where the cardboard is? 🤣 just kidding. Dude, they already look good! I wish I had somewhat of a decent vision for my doors like you do. I like how they tuck a little behind the template (I know, that's subject to change. I think it looks cool though... but then again, who am I 🤣) keep up the good work!

How do you know you're clipping after setting the gain? Are you setting your gain with the bass knob turned all the way up first? You're not adding any extras after tuning are you? Like bass boost, or a different setting on the head unit?