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Everything posted by Dafaseles

  1. Knowing those RP amplifiers will do their rated power, a DMM will do the job to tune the amp. It's not the best method, but it's better than tuning by ear. 4 channel amplifiers for mids and highs don't take as much current as bass amps, so really, adding a simple 400.4 wouldn't stress your electrical out to much. In my opinion 1500 watts is already pushing your stock electrical. But I get it. Being in a tight budget is hard. You just have to do it one step at a time. Though keep in mind, the big 3 upgrade is huge! So I would look into at least upgrading that as soon as you can. You'll get it though. Just know you'll never know everything and always have a mind ready to learn something new.
  2. Thanks for going through my thread! Any questions, don't hesitate to ask. Can't wait to see the center console! Staining it should be really good looking! 3 things... That much power to your sub, you're probably going to want to upgrade your mids and highs sooner rather than later. As you're planning and building your build, plan for it. Even if you don't end up doing it, if you plan for it, you won't get stuck having to redo everything because you decide that you want more. Also, if you're going to build a center console, (if you don't know how to already) watch some videos on how to "kerf" your edges. If anything, it'll just be another weapon in your arsenal to building a cool looking enclosure. Also, depending on how in depth you want to get, maybe even look into getting someone to design your enclosure/ console for you. They'll model the sub on that power in different configurations to give you the best sound possible. Usually you'll get a cut sheet as well as detailed plans that will help in the build process. Just some things to think about. That's all, can't wait to see it!
  3. Some fuses are plastic, which are usually between $4-$10 a piece. Then you have ceramic fuses which can jump up into the $20 a piece range. The ceramic style is better because of its tolerance to heat as opposed to plastic. In my opinion though, if you're not running some crazy huge system, that can generate a lot of excess heat, plastic ANL fuses work just fine. Sky High Car Audio has their own fuses. I want to say they're $4 a piece. Maybe even less right now. I think they're running a sale
  4. I think if I didn't already spend a G on a battery, I'd go LTO. I bought it on a knee jerk reaction to a sale lol.
  5. I don't know. The thing started smoking like crazy then poof I already ordered another. I can't lose a weekend to not working on the truck. I have to get this done. I'm starting to consistently lose sleep
  6. I have that voltage regulator in my truck. The voltage will fluctuate on its own because the RVC is telling the alternator it doesn't need it right now basically. What I had to do, because I went with a LifePo4 battery (they don't like being charged above 14.8v, and that RVC can tell the alternator to charge above 15.3v at times) is buy an older alternator with a 4 pin mount. GM hasn't changed their alternator mounting since 1986 I believe. But changed to a 2 pin plug setup and added the RVC in 2006. So I bought a Mechman alternator for a 2005. Mechman also makes a stand alone 4 pin plug that you plug into your alternator, and just hook it up to a switched 12v source for the exciter wire. Now, it'll stay at 14.7 no matter what. Mechman also sells a plug you plug into the stock 2 pin plug that tricks the computer into thinking nothing has changed with the RVC, so you don't have to share at a battery light on the dash. That, or I would think you'd have to go externally regulated on your alternator so the voltage will stay constant. LTO's can change a lot higher than LifePo4 cells, so I don't think you'd end up damaging LTO cells charging upwards of 15v. But I don't know half as much as @SnowDriftereither lol.
  7. Knukonceptz is legit. I don't know who told you that. They do sell both OFC and CCA, but as long as you make sure you get the OFC, you're good. SHCA has really good cable, so does Sundown. HiFi Vega has a whole series of videos on YouTube comparing different brands of 1/0 cable. Pretty interesting
  8. It's hard to tell, but the bottom piece is a little bigger than the top, so the insert will fit nicely. Again, the router is winning on this one
  9. You could have fit 6 more on there easy! Looks good though! And still have room for groceries
  10. If the batteries are wired in parallel together, then essentially, you have 1 big battery, so I don't see anything wrong with that.
  11. If you're asking can you ground the amp to a single battery, then yes, you can. Just make sure the batteries are grounded well themselves
  12. You have 2 grounds from your amp, with a single ground going to each battery?
  13. Poly-fil is really only used to "trick" the subwoofer into thinking it's in a bigger enclosure than it is. I don't think you'd need that
  14. Nice, neat, straight router lines! I should have bought one a long time ago! 
  15. Remember it's not dumb if it works! Looking good
  16. The reason I asked about the big 3, and if the problem happens after listening for a while is voltage drop. The fact that you say it happens immediately leads me to believe it's not the case. It's a good thing you grounded to s nice, steel piece, but it's more about the path of getting that spent energy back to the alternator. You want to get rid of bottlenecks. That's why the big 3 is such a big deal. Especially the grounds. At the very least, I would add a nice thick wire from the battery negative to the chassis, and another from the negative to the engine block. This probably won't fix your problem, but it's just s good idea. So, there's a couple other reasons you might be hearing a sound that sounds like the subwoofer is distorting or bottoming out. I don't think you're overdriving the sub and I don't think that enclosure is too big to the point the subwoofer suspension is losing control of the cone. So I don't think it's bottoming out. There's a thing called lead slap or tinsel slap. It happens when the leads that connect to your speaker terminals on the subwoofer actually hit the cone when in motion. It's usually a factory defect. I've heard of people using those little felt sticky circles people use on the bottoms of their kitchen chairs to fix this problem. Another is the enclosure itself is bad. Maybe a loose corner or edge that has a leak, and/ or is vibrating against another part of the box, making a terrible sound. Unfortunately, it's a hard thing to pinpoint.
  17. That's good that it sounds good to you. That's always the number one thing, but you should be able to run your gain at where the DD-1 tells you with no issue. Some things come to mind. What kind of vehicle is this in? How do you have the amplifier grounded? Are you using OFC wire? Or CCA? Have you done the big 3 upgrade? Can you play full tilt when you first start the vehicle, but then start clipping later in the drive? Is this a prefab box? Did you build it? Did a shop build it?
  18. So.... are those speakers going to be sticking that far out where the cardboard is? just kidding. Dude, they already look good! I wish I had somewhat of a decent vision for my doors like you do. I like how they tuck a little behind the template (I know, that's subject to change. I think it looks cool though... but then again, who am I ) keep up the good work!
  19. How do you know you're clipping after setting the gain? Are you setting your gain with the bass knob turned all the way up first? You're not adding any extras after tuning are you? Like bass boost, or a different setting on the head unit?
  20. So, I just actually went through this an hour ago in a coworkers truck. Set up the DD-1 to find the head unit max volume. He listens primarily to pandora and youtube through his phone. I told him to turn his phone all the way up, then down 1 click. We went on YouTube and used a 40 hz -3db track. His pioneer deck went 100% without distortion. I asked him, just for shits and giggles to give it that last click on the phone. He did, BOOM, red light. Went back down a click, no red light. So if I would have just set his amp and head unit up using just the DD-1 CD, it wouldn't have made a difference, because when he started listening to music through his phone, he would have been clipping.
  21. I think the signal from your phone is where you're getting distortion. Try getting a 40 hz -10db tone from Spotify or at least youtube, then set your gains using your phone and Bluetooth. See if that helps And set your gains with the bass knob all the way up, or at least close. Turning it up after you set your gains can introduce distortion as well. It shouldn't make a difference while tuning, but LPF should be set around 80 hz while the HPF or subsonic filter should be set a half octave below the tuning of the box. So if the box port is tuned to 32 then that filter should be set at 24 hz. Unless it's sealed, then go ahead and turn it off/ all the way to the left. Also, are your mids on an amp as well?
  22. Love a big box! Looking good bud! Can't wait to see those subs mounted in it
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