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Dafaseles

SMD Bronze Member
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Everything posted by Dafaseles

  1. If you don't know exactly what you're listening for, tuning your gain by ear isn't a good idea. If you use a DMM to set your gain, it might seem daunting, but it'll yield you better results that are safer to your equipment. Just take it step by step. Also, those Q's work best in a huge box. Do you know how many cubes your enclosure is? Also, are you using a stock head unit and LOC?
  2. I didn't get to work any yesterday, so I did as much as I could today, which didn't seem like too much. I made a bunch of templates of my 8" speakers. One is too small to do anything with, so that will go into the archives. 3 are just the exact size of the 8's including the mounting holes. And one is just a 16th of an inch bigger than the one that's too small. It's perfect for the flush mount fitment of the 8's. 20211205_161627.mp4 Nice and tight, but good and loose, all at the same time. It came out really good. This cut was made on a junk piece though. I had time to lay out the speaker fitment on the top piece And that was it for tonight. Time to clean up I made an absolute mess!
  3. Thanks for looking through it! I don't know about taking it to the moon, but it should be nice when I'm finally done. My doors will be way more than I need, but it should be fun. I wish I would have nutted up and joined this forum 10 years ago when I bought the truck. I would have gained the knowledge much earlier and been able to build and afford the system I'd really want. Building a full on 50,000+ watt demo system would be amazing! But I don't know enough (yet) to do something crazy like that, not to mention now having a family, I don't have the dough to accomplish something like that either lol.
  4. If you can, take a tape measure and measure the length, width, and hight you're OK with losing to an enclosure. When figuring the system you want to run in any vehicle, the first step is to decide how much room you're willing to give up. Then matching the sub(s) to that space. That's how you will yield the best sounding experience you can. It looks like that might be a decent amount of space. You might be able to run 2 10's. Maybe a single 15. 2 12's, a single 12 maybe. But we won't know for sure until you measure the space.
  5. Do you happen to have measurements for the space available? How many cubic feet are you willing to give up?
  6. I was looking it up, and yeah, that's pretty interesting. I think because of its power management system and thermal control, it's made for 2 ohm. It will play and handle 1 ohm, but to make sure the amplifier doesn't over draw what it can handle, it limits the current flow at 1 ohm. I've seen JL amplifiers do this same thing on amp dyno videos. They do more on a run to clipping than they do a dynamic run, and if it doesn't go into protect, will do less at impedances below 2 ohm. If you go to the alpine website, they don't even advertise that amp below 2 ohm. As far as subwoofers go, do you have a price in mind? 1 sub or 2? Size?
  7. I think it looks really good so far. Everything looks like it fits really nice and really tight. The little things to really make an install look sharp! I wish I lived in an area where I could show off my equipment. I have to hide everything as much as I can
  8. First, LPF should be at around 80 hz. That will let the subwoofer play everything below 80 hz, as it should. Your subsonic should be a bit lower. Should be a couple hz below the tuning of the box. Being that it's a prefab box, do you know the port tuning? Seeing your gain by ear is a recipe for disaster unless you are a seasoned vet and know exactly what you're listening for. Using a DD-1 is best, an oscilloscope is good too, if all else fails, use a DMM. There are videos on YouTube explaining how to tune with one of those. Problem with that is, especially using a brand amplifier that the manufacturer has no problem lying to you about output, is you're hoping the amount of power your putting out isn't clipping the Soundwave. You need a new amp bud. I hate to say it. Something around 2500-3000 watts RMS would do those subs well. Also, for smooth bass (which that's what it sounds like you're looking for) a bigger box, with lower tuning usually will accomplish this. Like @Ron36said, electrical is number 1. Always. You can't make power without having power first
  9. I've learned this as well.... it sure does take a long time to get it done the exact way you want it, doesn't it?
  10. I don't think you where bottoming out. That sub on a 1500 watt amplifier playing regular music shouldn't be an issue at all. If you want to get technical, after impedance rise, that sub was lucky to see 1000 watts, if it even ever saw that. With the gain way below the distortion point, the sub should never get warm and smelly. That's your coil getting too hot and working towards failure. I don't think your box is too big. On average, seasoned box designers I've spoken to say they have no problem going 20% bigger than the manufacturers specifications. Your box is almost perfectly 20% bigger than the manufacturer recommendation. There's something else going on. Have you checked your amplifiers ground with a multimeter to just double check to make sure it's a good spot? There are tons of videos on YouTube explaining how to do so. How far away from the enclosure is the back of the motor off the sub? If it's too close, the subwoofer won't be able to get air into the voice coil to properly cool it. Hand you checked the impedance of each voice coil separately to make sure they read near 2 ohm each, and read somewhat similar?
  11. How do you know they're clipping? Do you have any upgraded electrical in the vehicle? How is your amplifier grounded? Just some starter questions to try to get to the root of the problem
  12. I'm going to use this Sikaflex 1a Polyurethane Sealant, 10.1 fl. oz. Ca... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00461KMIY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_2PFG7RMVQE0W7H88XBWG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 It's what my cousin recommends, and he's an industrial waterproofer by trade, so I trust his recommendation on some legit, industrial caulking
  13. You can do that, it just makes it a pain in the ass of you ever want to remove the box temporarily. Just make sure you seal it up TIGHT! Any leak can screw up all your sound
  14. That box is massive back there! Looking good so far! I bet that setup will sound amazing!
  15. Bought my truck new, bought my wife's Explorer new, still miss my 99 Tahoe. I wish it didn't blow up on me lol. I'd have 6 15's on 40k right now
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