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Dafaseles

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Everything posted by Dafaseles

  1. That's bad ass! No particular reason behind it, and not that it matters at all, but I'm a 12" guy. This build is going to be sick! Just out of curiosity, what impedance load will you be sending the amps? (I don't know the proper term for what I'm trying to ask, sorry lol) Will you strap them? Or just run 3 subs with the 2 channels bridged? Just curious how you'll be running those bad ass amps.
  2. I can't guide toy through it as I have never used an oscilloscope, but for highs, people usually use 1000 hz tone to set the gain
  3. The 4 channel RCA's are 4 for head unit, 4 for amp. So, you should be able to use the 4 channel RCA's. The 2 front head unit outputs to channel 1 & 2, and the 2 rear head unit outputs to channel 3 & 4. Hopefully this drawing makes sense
  4. It looked like in the picture, the head unit has 3 sets of RCA's. 1 set for the subs, 1 set for the front mids and highs, and one set for the rear mids and highs? Or is that third one a video input? Anyway, if you only have 1 set of full range outputs on the head unit, you'll have to use a regular set of RCA's, then use 2 single female to dual Male RCA's ( https://skyhighcaraudio.com/sky-high-car-audio-premium-y-splitter/ ) to go into the amp. Or 2 single Male to dual female out of the head unit to 4 channel RCA's
  5. I think I read that correctly, it has separate RCA outs for front and rear speakers? If so, you can either get 4 channel RCA's ( http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/rca-cables/krystal-rca-kables/sp/krystal-kable-4-channel-6m-twisted-pair-rca-cable/ you don't have to get these ones, just figured I'd show you) just pay attention which color goes to the fronts and which goes to the backs. Or, you could just run 2 separate 2 channel RCA's to the amp, just make sure you remember which is front, which is rear.
  6. This might sound stupid, but I've seen this work with other problem posts with the CC1 and DD1, put a brand new Energizer battery in it. For some reason, even sometimes people using them for the first time send having issues, they change the battery to a good, brand new, name brand, strong battery, and it works. If that doesn't work, yeah I'd contact WCC Audio
  7. Yes. The goal is to not use those settings at. But if you wish to use them, before finding the max volume of your head unit and setting the gain, turn them up. Then after you set the gain, you can keep them where they're at or turn them down. You never add to the frequency, you only cut or, like you said, you'd add clipping
  8. If you figure out a way to find the max volume without distortion on your phone, let me know please. I have an I pod that I use for music in my truck and that's what I'm going to use to set my gains using the bluetooth (also using the DD1). It would be nice to know the max volume of that thing while tuning.
  9. Since you mostly listen to things via bluetooth, I'd set the amps via bluetooth. I don't know how you would go about finding the max volume of your phone without distortion, so if it where me, I would just have it 3 or 4 clicks from max volume and when listening to it in the car never turn it up past that
  10. Well, the way I see it, the SVR would do fine on that amp, or use the EVL; break it in on that amp and if you want as little more, that sub can handle more.
  11. Yeah, this whole money and time thing is really keeping me from achieving my car audio goals as well. Just chipping away at it a little at a time. Learning as much as I can
  12. Granted, I don't know everything about the DD1 or the DD1+, but I looked into both and I'm just going to get the DD1. It's cheaper and the extra things the plus did and came with, didn't seem like it was a must have for someone just trying to dial in the head unit and amp gain, and then use the CC1 along with it to match the gain on my 2 bass amps. There only major differences I could see was the plus will do gain overlaps all the way up to I think 15 db (don't quote me on that) and the regular only does overlap 0, 5, and 10 db. And I think the plus comes with a better way to link whatever you're trying to meter to the plus, and an updated software and internal board that I'm sure are better and more accurate. But, in my own opinion, I think the DD1 will do exactly what I need it to do, without fail and with enough accuracy to accomplish what I'm trying to do. Though i am curious to hear from someone who has actually used both.
  13. No lie, this fool doesn't even have aftermarket door speakers... just the subs. He said "he got a good deal" lol. You can't hear anything else but the bass. It's embarrassing to ride in. I'm the only one in our group of friends that actually cares about the electrical, the correct box size, you know, actually making the stereo sound good. My friends just slap some shit they picked up into their ride and call it good lol. I'll have to play with the DD1 and see what I can do with it.... and read the owner's manual twice! Lol
  14. Lol I should just send those things lol. With my new setup, it shouldn't be a problem. 4 FI Q Neo 12's on 2 DC Audio 3.5k's. But I've got friends that just piece together stuff they buy off of craigslist and I was just curious if I could use the DD1 on their crappy setups. Like my one friend who has 2 18" Kicker Comps in the back of a Monte Carlo running off a Hyphonics Brutus amp.... turned way down I'm assuming. I'm not touching that one with a 10 foot pole lol. Thank you for your time and your reply sparkymedina! I appreciate it!
  15. But I'm talking just straight up using the DD1 to set the gains, up until the the red light comes on, then backing it off just a tad. Head unit, then EQ, then the amps, then just blindly slapping them. Or am I not understanding something completely? I know it's kind of a dumb question. I think the answer is yes, you'd end up blowing the subs, but I figured I'd ask so I could get the right answer from someone who actually knows what they're talking about. I'm just guessing lol
  16. I'm planning on upgrading my system soon and planning on also buying the DD1+ to tune it. It shouldn't be a problem with the new system. Thinking about it and watching the you tube videos, I'm thinking I wouldn't be able to properly use it on my current setup, along with some of my friends pieced together systems. My question: if I'm running 4 12" JL Audio W6's with 4 JL Audio JX1000/1's, if I properly set the gains, would I be giving too much power to those 600 watt RMS subs and end up blowing them up?
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