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kalilac619

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About kalilac619

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    140db
  • Birthday 02/23/1980

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    Male
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    San D-LEGO MY EGGO

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  1. He's probably tuned higher than that for instance I have a 2 18 series 6th order and I'm tuned 22hz rear and 48hz front and my bandwidth is 12hz-73hz... the rear is the low tuned chamber and the front is the high tuned chamber rear chamber is always the low tuned chamber on a series 6th order rear chamber doesn't necessarily have to be the larger one but can be at times...mine is a 1.35:1ratio (14cuft rear and 19cuft front) and I've shrank the rear and front multiple times to see differences and this one just happened to be the best overall....there's a lot more to it then just ratios ..it's more about getting the turnings,port sizes and chamber sizes to play nicely together cause if ones off a lot of bad can happen
  2. Real magic happens when you get enough Alt power and ditch batteries and run strictly caps
  3. I did 6 banks and a 40ah juice box lithium for almost 2 years without issues
  4. They're not to difficult once you get your foot in the water before diving in....box programs,or on paper specs can be way off once in car....mine on paper/BB Pro and the term pro software has my rear port 7 hz higher then actual in car tuning...supposed to be tuned to 25hz actual tuning using the SMD IM/SG is 18hz .... I can do a 153+ from 16hz -62hz sealed on the dash with my best scores being a156.5 at 26hz and a 156.1 at 53hz....door open is where it really shines 155+ 18hz -65hz best being a 159.8 at 29hz on the dash door open
  5. Make them where ports can be played with i.e. Port sizes changed, tunings etc to get it dialed in....over the past 3yrs I've learned there's no one size fits all when it comes to 6ths...if I would've left mine the way it was with out changing port sizes etc based off the design I got I'd be about 3db quieter...luckly the guy who designed mine made it where I could do port swaps...it was loud and could hair trick when I finished BUT biggest gains were in playing with BOTH ports...3db gain just playing with ports...not sub swapping...not adding power
  6. Only time I tried 1vs 2 was Back when I had my Sundown Scv6000s I tried 1 @ .25 vs 2 at .5 each....the 2 @.5 was exactly a db louder then 1 @ .25....go figure Lol
  7. What @DiBo said....I have 2 NSv4 18s in a 6th order with a sundown SCV7500 on each wired at .4 each and they take it all day
  8. That's cause DC doesn't like to billet cases That aren't in high demand like Tahoes,Silverado,suburban etc cases....Singer and CES will....biggest DC offered was a 270 but got them to do a 320 slotwound for me back in 2011 by removing the rear mount.... Singer made me a 370 large case hairpin
  9. The NSv4 line has 46% more motor force over the Zv5...so a NSv4 12 would be louder than a Zv5 15....would it be audible to the ear? Probably not but would definitely show up on the meter
  10. Motors getting stronger as you move up the line ....Zv5 is definitely stronger then the X but would be a wash 12 to15 swap...the Nsv3 is 22% stronger then the Zv5 and the NSv4 is 23% stronger than the Nsv3 which is 46% stronger than the Zv5 so it would be louder 12 to 15 swap...NOW would you notice? Probably not,would definitely show up on the meter but probably at a db louder a best....I run a an SCV 7500 on each of my Nsv4s at .5 clamping a tad over 7k each and have been doing so since October with ZERO issue
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