Dafaseles

Welcome!

I was thinking the same thing about the port, but I don't know a much about box design. I didn't want to say anything about it and be wrong lol

That's a lot.... Well, there could be many different reasons why you're not getting the output you want. How many cubic feet of airspace do you have inside the box? What is your box tuned to? If it's tuned too high, or too low, that can hinder output. How did you set your gain on your amp? If the gain isn't set right, you'll never get the output you want. What are your crossover settings on the amp? If your subsonic and low pass filter (LPF) isn't set correctly, you could be cutting off frequencies you need. How many amps is your aftermarket alternator? And what brand is it? I see the cap (which you should ditch to be honest) but what battery are you running? 1 or 2? The big 3 is upgrading your positive cable from your alternator to your battery. Then battery negative to the frame or chassis (depending on where your amplifiers are grounded) and then from battery negative to the engine block/ alternator. Not your starter. So you could have bottlenecks in your electrical, causing voltage drops. My buddy has a mega cab, behind the backseat he has a single JL W7 in a 2 cubic foot box (net). There is a lot of space back there, so building a box big enough should be doable. He has his single 12 firing sideways toward the drivers side, along with the port firing the same direction. No, you can't hear him blocks away (which is kind of impossible unless you have way more subs and power) but you can definitely hear him pull up.

Abuse, regular use..... tomato, toe-mah-toe

So clean!

I can't wait to see that done. I wish my mind had style like that

Yessir

Yes, just make sure your speakers are disconnected or you run the risk of damaging them

Those 3 ways look so good.

Damn those look good!

Dude, absolutely perfect. Fits right into a luxury vehicle. Top notch work. That aluminum really pulls out all together in my opinion. I'm sure it will sound as good as it looks.

I want one of those shirts! (Along with the black license plate shirt on the website.... I'll order one soon, been busy)

Looks like it could be stock. So clean!

I don't think you where bottoming out. That sub on a 1500 watt amplifier playing regular music shouldn't be an issue at all. If you want to get technical, after impedance rise, that sub was lucky to see 1000 watts, if it even ever saw that. With the gain way below the distortion point, the sub should never get warm and smelly. That's your coil getting too hot and working towards failure. I don't think your box is too big. On average, seasoned box designers I've spoken to say they have no problem going 20% bigger than the manufacturers specifications. Your box is almost perfectly 20% bigger than the manufacturer recommendation. There's something else going on. Have you checked your amplifiers ground with a multimeter to just double check to make sure it's a good spot? There are tons of videos on YouTube explaining how to do so. How far away from the enclosure is the back of the motor off the sub? If it's too close, the subwoofer won't be able to get air into the voice coil to properly cool it. Hand you checked the impedance of each voice coil separately to make sure they read near 2 ohm each, and read somewhat similar?

Just the shape of it looks so good! I'm fucking jealous!

Poly-fil is really only used to "trick" the subwoofer into thinking it's in a bigger enclosure than it is. I don't think you'd need that

The reason I asked about the big 3, and if the problem happens after listening for a while is voltage drop. The fact that you say it happens immediately leads me to believe it's not the case. It's a good thing you grounded to s nice, steel piece, but it's more about the path of getting that spent energy back to the alternator. You want to get rid of bottlenecks. That's why the big 3 is such a big deal. Especially the grounds. At the very least, I would add a nice thick wire from the battery negative to the chassis, and another from the negative to the engine block. This probably won't fix your problem, but it's just s good idea. So, there's a couple other reasons you might be hearing a sound that sounds like the subwoofer is distorting or bottoming out. I don't think you're overdriving the sub and I don't think that enclosure is too big to the point the subwoofer suspension is losing control of the cone. So I don't think it's bottoming out. There's a thing called lead slap or tinsel slap. It happens when the leads that connect to your speaker terminals on the subwoofer actually hit the cone when in motion. It's usually a factory defect. I've heard of people using those little felt sticky circles people use on the bottoms of their kitchen chairs to fix this problem. Another is the enclosure itself is bad. Maybe a loose corner or edge that has a leak, and/ or is vibrating against another part of the box, making a terrible sound. Unfortunately, it's a hard thing to pinpoint.

That's good that it sounds good to you. That's always the number one thing, but you should be able to run your gain at where the DD-1 tells you with no issue. Some things come to mind. What kind of vehicle is this in? How do you have the amplifier grounded? Are you using OFC wire? Or CCA? Have you done the big 3 upgrade? Can you play full tilt when you first start the vehicle, but then start clipping later in the drive? Is this a prefab box? Did you build it? Did a shop build it?

So.... are those speakers going to be sticking that far out where the cardboard is? 🤣 just kidding. Dude, they already look good! I wish I had somewhat of a decent vision for my doors like you do. I like how they tuck a little behind the template (I know, that's subject to change. I think it looks cool though... but then again, who am I 🤣) keep up the good work!

How do you know you're clipping after setting the gain? Are you setting your gain with the bass knob turned all the way up first? You're not adding any extras after tuning are you? Like bass boost, or a different setting on the head unit?

So, I just actually went through this an hour ago in a coworkers truck. Set up the DD-1 to find the head unit max volume. He listens primarily to pandora and youtube through his phone. I told him to turn his phone all the way up, then down 1 click. We went on YouTube and used a 40 hz -3db track. His pioneer deck went 100% without distortion. I asked him, just for shits and giggles to give it that last click on the phone. He did, BOOM, red light. Went back down a click, no red light. So if I would have just set his amp and head unit up using just the DD-1 CD, it wouldn't have made a difference, because when he started listening to music through his phone, he would have been clipping.

I think the signal from your phone is where you're getting distortion. Try getting a 40 hz -10db tone from Spotify or at least youtube, then set your gains using your phone and Bluetooth. See if that helps And set your gains with the bass knob all the way up, or at least close. Turning it up after you set your gains can introduce distortion as well. It shouldn't make a difference while tuning, but LPF should be set around 80 hz while the HPF or subsonic filter should be set a half octave below the tuning of the box. So if the box port is tuned to 32 then that filter should be set at 24 hz. Unless it's sealed, then go ahead and turn it off/ all the way to the left. Also, are your mids on an amp as well?

Yeah, 1 ohm isn't going to happen. But if you wire each sub to a 4 ohm load each, then connect each sub to the amp, the amp will see a final 2 ohm load. You don't have to connect the 2 subs. If each sub is 4 ohm each, then because it's a single channel mono block, so connecting both 4 ohm subs to the amp will give the single channel a final 2 ohm load. To install all that stuff, you first should start with what's called the big 3/4 upgrade. You need to upgrade the cable from the alternator positive to the battery positive (preferably for the power you're running, a high amp hour AGM) to at least 4 ga OFC (or 1/0 depending on your alternator amperage). Then upgrade The cable from the battery negative to the engine block/ alternator to preferably 1/0 (everything should be OFC cable or at least pure copper. No CCA cable). Then from the engine block, a nice thick cable going to a spot on the frame that you have cleaned. I usually recommend a nice thick one from the battery negative to the chassis/ firewall as well. Then from the battery positive, 1/0 to a 350a fuse as close to the battery as you can. Then from that fuse, back to I guess the cap. I've never used a cap, and everyone that I've spoken to that used to use them, won't ever again. I guess they cause more problems than they fix. So in my opinion, I'd ditch it. But if you want to use it, go ahead. I ain't ya daddy. Then, take that 1/0 into a dual fused distribution block in the general area of the amplifiers. (There's different ways of fusing, but this is how I do it) One slot will have a 120a fuse. That will be for the 4 ga going to the subwoofer amplifier. The other will have a 60a fuse with 8 ga going to the 4 channel amp. Any other questions, don't hesitate to ask bud!

So you have a speaker terminal for each sub? So 2 speaker terminals? In that case, for the amplifier to see a final 2 ohm load, you would wire each like this so each would have a final 4 ohm loadand then once you hook each sub up to their respective speaker terminals in the amp, the amp would see a final 2 ohm load.

As far as the mids and highs go, I'd set the HPF at about 100 hz, and that's it. Set your gains with a DD-1 (best), an oscilloscope (good), or digital multimeter (better than nothing). There are videos on YouTube that will teach you how. I'm not going to tell you to get rid of the caps, but I've never had good luck with them. I would just keep the subs flush personally, but you can invert them and see which sound you like better. If you invert them, just make sure you wire them 180 degrees out of phase. I'm not quite following how you wired the subs. Are you connecting both subs to a single quick connect? Or does each woofer have its own?