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DizzleDizzle

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DizzleDizzle last won the day on January 9 2021

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  1. Sorry Joe I'll get those measurements as soon as I can don't mean to keep someone waiting who is taking time out to help me. Been having some pretty bad back problems lately and haven't been able to do much hoping to get my issues figured out tomorrow but I'm still all in on this haven't given up just yet. Thanks for the patience friend.
  2. While you are right about the rms being below what I plan on feeding if you are familiar with sundown they are fine with being fed way more on a clean signal. The U series in particular take way more than rms rating. As far as the JP33 I looked into it a little and from what I understand they fixed the overheating problem by wiring the fan to be on all the time instead of after reaching a certain temp. I'm not really leaning towards this amp anymore though I think I'm going to go with surge amps. I am still really not decided on any particular amps but I am researching thanks for the sounds advice on choosing a amplifier that I will be happy with in my particular circumstances. This is definitely something to consider. I only plan to run the subs at half ohm until I can buy a second of the same amplifiers but knowing me I may never actually get around to buying the 2nd. Since I try to go all in when first building a setup but then interest tends to fall off the longer I run something, and I sometimes don't end up doing everything I had planned. Batteries may be a problem since I won't have any extra room in the cab. The truck is setup now for 2 batteries one under the hood and one in the bed. I'm not sure if I will run agm or lithium but I am considering redoing the rear battery rack behind the axle to hold 3-4 batts and deleting the underhood batt since lithium won't fare well in the engine bay. Definitely going with the biggest alt I can find if I remember correctly that was a 450amp but it's been a minute since I've looked into it. I have most of the underhood wiring upgraded to GP audio 2/0 the rest I used SHCA 1/0 I had laying around but still haven't started stocking up on power and ground cable to do the runs into cab and to rear batteries. As you can tell I still have a lot of planning to do. You seem the type to stare death in the face and laugh. 😈
  3. Looks like I keep getting a error and having trouble uploading pics I'll just wait until I get the better pictures tomorrow.
  4. I went ahead and grabbed a work light and went out to grab pics. I'll get better ones tomorrow though.
  5. Getting ready to redo my fiberglass door panels. To fix cracks etc. Looking for ideas for door pulls either homemade or aftermarket bolt on since I won't be able to use tweeter holes anymore once I get some components in. 😂 I was thinking something simple like these but not sure if I'll like these. PZRT 2-Pack Black Aluminium Alloy Handle Rectangular Industrial Pull Handle for 30 Series Aluminum Pics of current panels
  6. Sure. It's a 1994 Silverado Dually with extended cab. I'll grab pics in the morning since the sun is already down here. Thanks for all the help Joe. 😂
  7. Thanks. I got the truck back together and wired up but didn't get a chance to take measurements pretty bad storm and high winds here I had to get it out from under the tree that kills all my cars so it's at a buddies house for a day or two. It looks like my efforts didn't buy me much extra space though. As far as the enclosure i wanted the port to fire forward above the center console and the subs firing upwards but inverted. Now I just don't know what the enclosure is going to looks like probably just basic sealed box. Until I can figure something else out.
  8. Sure I'll get the interior back together so I can mock up seat positions and get all my max measurements done. I got the dash back in and started getting some of the wiring done so I can get the console in and where it needs to be. Hope to finish that up tomorrow so I can get these seats back in and some temporary spacers made to get them raised up to where they will sit when I get the frames built. Really the reason I asked for a quick sketch is I'm wondering how you are picturing the enclosure subs and port firing guess even for that we will need to know if it's going to need a wall or not. If walled I'm assuming both port and subs would need to fire forward? I do have a question for you though. When building a regular old ported enclosure is there any downside to making a slot port extra wide or big as opposed to having a longer port?
  9. Hmm. I'm not sure I can picture that design can you do a quick SketchUp to show me how you are picturing the enclosure? If I need more volume I hoping to go deeper instead of taller I absolutely hate losing visibility and the dimensions I took were with the seats all the way back and somewhat reclined once I put the new frames under them they will be raised a bit with more clearance. I also can do double wall thickness to the outside without going bigger because I did the measurements with all curves in the body in mind leaving extra wiggle room for clearance and for making wooden floor base and side panels. As long as double wall reinforcements will still be effective without going all the way to the top and bottom in certain areas. Like the rear wall of the cab has a big hump at the top, I can run double maybe even triple wall thickness up to that hump for example. The truck has no interior panels they were all stripped with the previous setup where the truck had a half wall I believe the installer called it. As far as port displacement I am still hoping to run a big ass square or rectangle port external. With all that being said I don't want to be unrealistic if I am just grasping at straws while trying to stuff 10 lbs of crap into a 5lb bag here let me know. If I must wall I will but really don't want to. Already have the subs though can't really back out just because I'm resisting a wall. The show must go on.
  10. Well the dimensions I have to work with are 25"(26 to window line)x63.75"x20" this gives me a little over 15.6 cubes to work with. I still plan to invert the subs when running ported to gain some airspace, this buys me a full cube so let's say I have to make up for 3 cubic ft instead of 4. Well that's still a lot but I'm also thinking the subs will still do ok being in a slightly oversized enclosure when sealed. Maybe .25 cubic ft per sub oversized not sure if this is too much. So that will leave 2 cubic feet I have to take up when running sealed. Still a good amount but I think I can easily make an adapter to take up 2 cubes no biggie. The port problem may be a bigger deal though. I don't have a lot of space to vent. I have the area above the center console between seats. Not sure how much while staying below window line. I also can vent through the center console I don't have any problem redoing it to accommodate for a port if that's possible. Then I have the space behind each seat towards the floor which would be more of a wedge shaped area. I have no idea what 200 sq. In. of port looks like but I'm thinking I can definitely make this work. Unless it's just something so impractical it's not worth trying to make it work. In which case I'll just build a quick sealed box to get the subs out of the house and into the truck beating. Then I'll work on figuring up a ported box to run with.
  11. So the local shows where I compete don't really have any rules that I'm aware of. It's kind of a free for all. Highest spl wins mic on dash and last time I was in one it was off music. There was another one I participated in don't remember much since it's been a couple years. I believe it was db drag style and on test tones but also pretty much a free for all. I planned to try to keep it below window line and that's about it. If I do travel to compete which I doubt will happen I will probably build an entirely new enclosure. Just want to be able to get loud in local shows. I'll be honest with you here my real goal I'd like to aim for with the ported section of the box is to move the maximum amount of air. I had 2 DC lvl3 15s I could float a paper towel in the window. I figure since I'm going in a little bit smaller cab and effectively doubling cone area I can get closer to that hair trick I've always wanted. If this is unrealistic well that's ok but I still want to do a box that I can play sealed and also throw a port on to get a little louder/move some air.
  12. So I think I've settled on an amp. https://www.down4soundshop.com/surge-audio-ps-4000-1-4-000-watt-monoblock-car-amplifier/ I plan to get one for now and run at .5 ohm which it benched at over 7k watts at half ohm of I remember correctly. This is just to get me up and playing and once I get more money saved up I will get a 2nd and run them strapped at 2ohms. Does this sound like a sound plan for my 4 dual 4ohm 15s?
  13. That's a great idea I thought about making some cubes to go inside of the enclosure but didn't like that idea at all. This idea I like. I was thinking similarly that's about how I would want the external port to go on. So I would make one adapter to take up space for sealed and the other would be for ports. I figure I can build several ports to fine tune and find what works best. (I may need some help calculating my ports Joe.) Thanks for the great idea. I'm going to start drawing some plans and crunching some numbers so I can have an idea of how much MDF I need and hopefully soon I can get a day off to travel for supplies.
  14. That's what I did with my last enclosure I bought the thin walled pvc and appropriate sized end cap plug the rubber kind with the bolt to tighten. I then extended the hardware with a long carriage bolt used the plug with extended bolt to mount the PVC to a drill then I spun the PVC while heating the end and got perfect flares. I also used PVC piece that had the bell end that slide overtop of another piece to make a joint. So I could then flare both ends separately and still fit the PVC into the enclosure cutouts once flared, before pairing them up. Then it's up to you if you want to glue the PVC together to make it permanent or just use some tape to make it adjustable and tunable.
  15. Ok so let's say the enclosure is optimized for being ported. Instead of splitting the difference I make the enclosures to ported volume specs. Does it still sound good being .75ft3 oversized per woofer and sealed. The displacement of the woofers is about .25ft3 and they want 3ft3 for ported 2ft3 for sealed. So I run the subs regular for sealed that gives me an enclosure that is only .75ft3 oversized per woofer. Then run inverted while ported and external port that gives me a true 3ft3 per woofer. Then it's just about tuning which having external port I can make multiple ports and see which frequency my cab peaks at and optimize from there. Does this sound like it could work? I really do trust you judgement. I think you've designed like 5 enclosures for me in the past from my first sa8 enclosure to my enclosure for dc lvl 3 15s that I took first place with so I know you know what your doing. Thanks for all the help in the past btdubs appreciate you Joe X
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