raytard

original packing ftw, maybe some extra peanuts to fill gaps i usually put an extra layer or two of cardboard over the cone just to keep it safe.

have a factory upgrade alarm? ive seen a few cars with factory upgrade and a bad hood pin that falses and sets the horn off randomly.

yea, its not that powerful, and at 1ohm it will def get hot, all the hifonics i've ever seen get egg-frying hot at 1ohm and like james said it will maybe put out 400-500 at 1 ohm i know the 1000 watt ones rarely do over 600...but what do you expect from a 60 amp fuse? im such a hater of hifonics...there's more of them on the return shelf at the shop i work at than any other brand, and we dont even carry them...people just come in and buy new ones from us and leave those paperweights in our garage, or we send em to get repaired and they sell them off to their friends.

ive used my trusty radioshack one for quite a while, i was kinda pissed when i found that a 2-pack of batteries costs more than the multimeter but whatever =P that looks like it should have most of the basic functions you need, but usually the cheap ones arent as accurate as you need

600 watts true rms is enough fro cvr's that hifonics 600 watts isnt enough imo i blew mine with about 800 watts, but that was when i didnt know much and had it full blast for two hours straight, probaably clipping alot with the shit signal from an alpine 9870... the infinity 611a, and newer 1600a are really good amps, my 1600a (which i had on my cvrs for a while before selling it to a friend and then he sold it back to my cousin, and its still going great like 2 years later) was a little tank.

not to thread jack, but is there anywhere online you can get the pre-molded carpet? the carpet in my car is shot, everything else is fine, but 2 liters of oil and a gallon of red koolaid does a number to tan carpet... 95 avalon xls...i looked high and low but couldnt find a pre-molded carpet

http://www.jbl.com/car/products/product_de...COM&ser=POS come with power series components, they sound nice, nothing special, but its kinda nice having a loud, solid, sublime tweeter also have whip audio version of these http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=272-120 dumb loud, crystal clear, and piercing, its like painful to listen to with 50 watts going to em

downside is you HAVE to do it through bluetooth so when you're driving along and decide "hey, i think i should put my crossover 10hz higher or so" you have to break out a laptop with a bluetooth dongle and the program, or a windows mobile bluetooth phone with the program installed, or a palm device with bluetooth and the program audiocontrol, you can turn a knob or push a button depending on what model you have and some people will debate that hardware and wired devices like an audiocontrol sound better than an all digital thing like a 360.2 the 360 is amazing though, definately worth it, and packed so full of features you can make any system into an sq setup

yea, i "picked it up" too to their credit it is very well recorded...a whole lot better than most mixtapes and stuff i get and every time i hear t-pain go "never thought i'd be on a booooaaat, its a big blue watery roooaaaddd, poseidon loook at meeeeee" i burst out laughing

some places out there, while they may be a car audio shop, and may have been around for a while, dont hire the best installers, because bad ones are cheaper in general, box stores like circuit city, bestbuy, etc hire kids off the street and give them a crash course in installations before they get set loose on your car. some audio specific shops are the same or not much better, almost all are head and shoulders better. their techs being MECP is nice, but doesn't really say much. see if they have a display of work they have done, ask friends and such about the shop...you should be able to find someone through the grapevine that has dealt with them before as long as everything is done right you might as well get it done, there is obviously better stuff out there, and it obviously will cost you more money, but you can always think about that down the line if you want to upgrade.

so its a videogame where you dance so later on you can kill stuff better? and then someone organized it and put music and edited it someone had way tooo much time on their hands, and then found a whole lot more. who still plays mmorpgs? i thought everything got taken over by the 8-14 year olds who hadnt found out about drugs and alcohol yet.

get on the ebay bit the bullet and pay the 30 or whatever

sounds about right as long as you trust them to work on your car, why not, its a start atleast

just make it work my car an hc1400 fit with room to spare, i just put it back in with the standard 2-bolt and crossbar setup screwed down tight, never budged on 07sonatasp.ed's car we put in a d5100, placed it on the stock tray and used the standard mounting bolts to hold down plumbers tape, with the bolt through a hole in the tape. we then put a spare sock between the battery and plumber's tape to ward off scuffs. again, its never budged. basically, get creative and make it work.... where there's a will there's a way

i have kicker 8in l5's, in my application they are respectably loud, but going with a different box design they can spund very good and get pretty loud, you can def find them around 300 a pair throw a 600 watt ish amp on them and you're set, ive used infinity 1600a amps, 600rms at 2ohm, never had a problem with it, you can easily find them for under 300, so that should easily be in your budget, even including wiring the 8in comps/ cvrs are ok...i dont like them, they just dont have the area or excursion to get low.

my .02, the rockford mids are nothing special, they work and handle gobs of power, but they dont have strong midbass, or clear midbass, its just like....fine tweet is a beast though, dumb loud and crystal clear, and the mid keeps up volume wise, but again, the sound that comes out isnt anything special, its just a loud clean set that takes a lot of power...what more could you ask for?

you can trust the dudes at proline they're really good at what they do, but like everyone else said, bigger is better, maybe consider losing some of the visibility out the rear window to get some extra space

jbl a6000, and most crown/jbl amps make more power at higher impedances 8110 Watts RMS x 1 channel at 4 ohms, 14.4V supply and ≤ 1%THD+N 7400 Watts RMS x 1 channel at 1 ohm, 14.4V supply and ≤ 1%THD+N it has to do with how the voltage is handled at differing impedances afaik, like it steps the voltage on the rails up when it sees a higher impedance or something. idk diddly about amps.

i had a dog that used to do that, it was funny as shit, you could watch him like go for a stroll while sleeping on the living room floor and my one cat would like hunt, it would like curl its legs up and get low, and then pounce and stuff, only it was asleep and laying on its side never had one of them run into a wall flat out tho, that was hilarious.

run a brace from the inside of the port wall straight across to the other side, tying it in to the other two braces if you can assuming you dont have like a heated garage or whatever fiberglass wrapping them together wont work, and glue will take days to dry, but put it there anyway and run a bigass screw straight thru glue is stronger then screws, remember that, gob that shit on there and throw a screw in the end just to hold it in place while the glue dries, def bring it inside and maybe throw a heatlamp or whatever on it so it cures before you bring it back out

i mean, the only one i see listed on ebay is 200 bux theyre def worth it for 100

if you got a set for 100, and can get the rest at the same price, then do it i wouldnt doubt them selling for 100-200 apiece if they are in good condition and you found someone who has a clue what they are

if you have a pair, consider yourself one lucky man, those are arguably some of the best subs ever made they may not put up any astronomical numbers, but throw something like a t1500 on them and they will definately get down and sound fantastic doing it.

if you're willing to do some cutting and nuts stuff, do a blowthrough. otherwise, see if you can fit like kicker/rockford/pioneer truck boxes under your seats and a good set of components. personally i'd say get a strong amp and 2 sets of components in there some how.

1 farad=72 watt seconds once a cap is drained, it doesn't recharge until the draw is brought down to a level where a reserve is created, its obvious that you cant start to charge something until there is current available, so if the amp draws more than the alt can provide, it drains the cap fiirst, and then the battery 72 watt seconds@12 volts...so thats like 6amps for a second...if you have 600 watts, call it a 60 amp draw, you get .1second of current from the cap, the rest just comes from thee batt and alt and the capacitor is just sitting there until the bass stops, then it recharges. a friend of mine ran 20 of those rockford hybrid 40f caps...so 800 farads. with 4 zx2500's. The caps were drained after a 3 second tone. get batteries, caps are beyond useless