Forevrbumpn

Well, no pics of carpeting, but one thing you can do, is just concentrate on carpeting the sides that actually show, like the face, top, side, and screw the back or bottom of the box, if they are not seen, nobody really cares. And also, the seams where you think people can notice pretty good, use a hair brush, and brush over those seams, it will help hide the seams a little better.

T-lines I build, when useing Low Qts drivers drop to about the next octave down. I usually build 40hz t-lines, and see them drop in the 20's pretty easy, and stay strong up to 60-80hz. If you run a T-line with a eq/bass boost, it really gets the output kickin hard. Thats why I stay around 40hz, just cuz my pioneer deck, ofcourse has the 40hz bass boost. So, it all works out fine, and sounds flat enough for me.

Steve, is it me, or is your Honda Civic bounceing faster.. haha

I have always absolutley sucked at carpeting, serious. I have tried and tried to cut corners, and also, try new carpeting techniques. If you ever use a router, I have a pretty cool trick. Since I suck at seams, the sides, I get 1/4" mdf, or even 1/2", use the router to copy the shape of the sides, then use a half round bit, and round the edges, then paint these with rhino liner paint, and clear coat... As for the front, if the port is on the sub side, I would use the same thing, 1/4" or 1/2" mdf, rout it to the shape, cutting out the woofer, port, and edges, then that piece I would carpet that alone, or paint it with rhino liner again. The rest of the box I would just carpet, and tick the seams under the front baffle, and side caps. The box end up looking sick at the end. Here is an idea of what Iam talking about. dual12painted.JPG_thumb

There was a BD1501 amp in the pic? I didnt see it :^

Yeah, that calculator is pretty boring. I will stick to my Bass Box 6.0 program

working on that... all I have is a Creative wired web cam, Iam not ballarific enough to buy a real digi cam. But here are the pics of the box, before install. The box will be wedged behind the seat/hatch area, should wedge in nice and tight... It is 2cf, with a 2"x12"x 20" long port, that fires in to a large opening, as seen on the side. All this does is help re-direct the port air flow, with out changing the tunning to much. final tunning is about 36-38hz. Tested it on the home test amp, and it was knockin good. Image205.jpg_thumb Image204.jpg_thumb

Sound Great tuned at 38hz, with a 250watt home sub plate amp, the house was shakin good.

SINCE IVE INSTALLED FOR ABOUT 13YRS NOW, THE PAST 6YEARS, THERES BEEN ALOT OF HYPE IN THE SQUARES, MAINLY L7s, THEN L5s, AND OTHER COMPANIES POPPIN OUT WITH HEX , TRIANGLE SHAPED SUBS. I ALWAYS THOUGHT ALL OF THESE DIFFERENT SHAPES WERE A BIG JOKE. THEN I HAVE INSTALLED A FEW OF THE X18s KICKERS, AND WAS IMPRESSED WITH ITS SIZE, AND ABILITY TO PRODUCE HIGH SPL AT LOW FREQUENCIES, BUT OTHER SUBS CAN COMPETE AND EVEN KILL THE X18s, AND COST AN EASY HALF THE X18s PRICE. THEN I CAME ACROSS, (BUDDY OF MINE BROUGHT IT OVER FOR ME TO BUILD A BOX FOR IT) THE HIFONICS ATLAS SQUARE SUB. I AALWAYS THOUGHT THIS SUB WAS A POS, SINCE THE DEMO VEHICLE IVE SEEN , THE DOMES WERE ALL LIT UP, FIGURED IT WAS ONLY A COSMETIC SPEAKER, NOT A GREAT SOUNDING WOOFER. I ASKED HIFONICS TO SEND ALL THE TRUE T/S PARAMETERS, AND I WAS IMPRESSED WITH THE NUMBERS I SEEN. EVEN THOUGH THE DOME LIGHTS UP, THE WHOLE CONE ASSEMBLY IS SOMEWHAT LIGHT, NICE STRONG BL, PERFECT FS/QTS/QMS FOR SPL PORTED BOXES. THEN FINALLY, I HAD THE WOOFER IN MY HANDS, (OBVIOUSLY A CHINA MADE SUB) LOOKS PRETTY COOL, A LITTLE ON THE FLASHY SIDE, LOTS OF CHROME, A CARBON FIBER CONE, RUBBER SURROUND, I WAS ABLE TO SEE THE VOICE COIL THRU THE FRAME, LOOKED NICE, I WAS SUPRISED, IT WAS A 3" VOICE COIL, AND THE WEIGHT OF THIS THING, DAMN, EASY 45LBS, ALOT MORE IMPRESSIVE WITH THE BUILD QUALITY THAN THE L7, L5, HART, AND PYLE SQUARE SUBS. AND THE MAGNETS, THEY WERE IN A ARRAY OF STACKED MAGNETS, 8 ROWS, TOTALING 180+ OUNCES. SO AFTER INSPECTING THE SUB, AND LOOKING FOR DEFECTS (COULDNT FIND ANY) I WAS IMPRESSED... NEXT STEP IS THE BOX BUILDING. ITS GOING IN A CORVETTE, RIGHT BEHIND THE HEAD RESTS, SANDWICHED IN THAT HATCH AREA OF A C5 CORVETTE, SUB AND PORT FIRING STRAIT TO THE WINDOW. WILL BE TUNED AT ABOUT 40-38HZ, IN A SOMEWHAT SMALL BOX, 2CF, BUT WITH A LARGER PORT. 12"X2.5 X20". WE WILL SEE HOW IT SOUNDS, SINCE IAM ALREADY IMPRESSED WITH THE BUILD OF THE SUB AND AT ONLY $139-169 EACH, THATS NOT A BAD PRICE- IF IT SOUNDS AS GOOD AS IT LOOKS, MINUS THE GAY ILLUMINATING DUST DOME. HERES THE SPECS IF ANY ONE WAS INTERESTED... THIS THREAD DOESNT REALLY NEED TO GO ANYWHERE, I JUST DRANK A FEW MONSTERS THIS MORNING, AND NEEDED TO BABBLE ABOUT SOMETHING. BOX SHOULD BE DONE TODAY. OH YEAH, AND THE WOOFER CUT OUT IS TO LARGE TO FIT ANYTHING WITH THE KICKER SQUARE TEMPLATE, THIS IS AN EASY 1/4"-3/8" OVER SIZED SD: .0598 sqM Revc: 1.55 BL: 17.21 T x M Vas: 21.5 liters Cms: 42.34 Mms: 417.7 Fs: 37.85hz Qms: 3 Qes: .52 Qts: .443 SPL@1w: 85.55db Xmax: 22mm Image199.jpg_thumb Image200.jpg_thumb Image202.jpg_thumb

I hear the BL on those things is insane, like a 80 or 90, but ofcourse cant find any specs on these things anywhere

got a date scheduled yet? I really wish I could get some action too!!! no amp tho :'(

Sup Cali, hows San Heezy? go to any shows lately?

If you like RE, but dont like the prices, go for the SSD line of Fi audio, prices are killer for a retail woofer, and very good in quality, hell the Q line is thier second woofer down from the top, and they go for only like $250 or something. I dunno about that SI brand, looks to common.

People say even adding body kits can destroy SPL, or atleast drop there spl by a whole point (seen that somewhere in this forum) I have even heard of simple things like carpeting a box ( I think is BS, but who knows) can lower a score some. But I bet a high, wind velocity from a port can be damaging to a score. Personally, when I do ported boxes, I try and keep SQ boxes, the port area I keep as close to 1/4 the area of the cone, per sub, and go for longer ports, then SPL set ups, I go for 1/2 cone area to port area ratio, so a 12" with about 90square inch cone, I would do a 45 sq inch port, and round the port on the inside, and outside. When I worked for the speaker company I rescently left, we even decided to stay with ports with all even sides, like square port, or close to square, and aero ports to keep wind noise down (for home audio applications) if you notice, doing a larger port, will reduce the wind velocity alot. Also, what I have learned is that a port , dont think of it as a vent, pressing, and sucking air in and out, think of it this way, "A port is where the air atoms resonate inside the port, at the tunning point, not moving in and out, but just vibrating in place- the larger the port, the more atoms vibrate inside the port, hence a louder, higher spl you should acheive" This is why I use transmission line enclosures all the time, all that air inside the transmission line, vibratating all those air atoms, easy way to gain high SPL gains, with barely even getting the speaker moveing at all. that was my 5cents on ports ;D

www.Ficaraudio.comnice stuff

Pioneer DEH- 6800Gotta love Pioneers sound adjustments, and Q settings

Hey Meade you like em'? I have 1-18 on order from Scott over there.. Great priceing!

Sometimes its fun, and well worth it to try and build your own components. Like I go to www.solen.com, or www.madisound.com and pic out some nice high end drivers for cheap. Vifa, Peerless, Aura, Eaton, ScanSpeak, SEAS, and you can run some basic cross over programs online, play with the inductors, caps a little bit, imageing, and with only about $200 spent you can come out with a bad ass $400 plus retail component system! Its pretty fun, and a great learning experience. check those sites out if you want to save money, for great quality.

I have so many 6.25"s mid basses, some 8"s and other 6.5"s. I got lucky and came across all these when I did engineering. What I have most of is the 6.25" free air mid bass/sub drivers, they are single 6ohm, and about 120watts handling, a few 4" SS Exact mids, from thier high end components, probably about 50 speakers in total, and Iam asking dirt cheap prices for them, like $10 each of anything

If I remember right, that trunk area is the same as my 84' Monte Carlo I had. The space was something close to 35wide (between trunk hinges) 14 tall, 11deep on top, and 14 deep on the bottom. I ran some Bass Box 6.0 runs, and that would be about 1cf outside ported sides (firing thru the 4x10" locations) a .6cf center sealed enclosure. But would be tuned about 70hz per side, Keeping a band pass in that location is pretty hard, so probably the ported box, built back there, ports firing up would be best, you get about 2.6cf back there, if flush with the trunk.

Sup guys, Iam Ken, also from Sac. Sup Meade, Bill, and anyone else who was at Alta Mere. Ive been in the car audio field since 94', went on to speaker business 02'-06' for a small company, subwoofer design, prototyping, component system, home, car, marine, and theater audio. Now, well, I really want to utilize some talents in to a dbdrag car. would like to attempt a 150 in a street A on a first attempt, and jump up from there. Nice site Meade!!

looks sweet, lots of cone area, and looks like it can make some loud noise

I love this topic. 1/4 wave enclosures, t-lines, folded horns. I have personally tested, and tested, on t-line design, folded horn is pretty much the same, but if the horn was laid out, it would be a horn where the subwoofer side is narrow, and as the horn exits, it opens up. Some people do this backwards, I never have, and dont see how it would benifit really. The best part about t-lines, and horns is the efficiency. But lacks maximum power handling. I have tested, over and over again, with about 5 box designs, and LEAP/LMS software, and have seen huge gains at low power with horns and t-lines. Woofers Older style Kove Armegedons 2-12s Boxes- 1-2cf sealed dual sub 1-4cf sealed dual sub 1-1.5cf ported dual sub 38hz 1- 4cf ported dual sub 38hz 1- 38hz 1/4 wave transmission line single 12" sealed boxes with 500w @4ohms didnt see more than 132-133db ported, smaller ported box actually seen about a .5db increase over the 4cf box ( I assume it was due to port location) 137-138db Then the transmission line, well with 1-12" I seen up to a 3db increase. 141db with 250 watts (ran at 8ohm) same amp, all sub tests I used a 3db gain at 40hz. But after awhile, swapping amps, I noticed the transmission line box couldnt handle the power the ported boxes, or sealed boxes coul handle, but the benifits, is higher efficiency, increased low bass output (the tline was putting out lows like a 18") the ported were more punchier, even thow all tuned the same freq, with the same subs. Tlines, and folded horns are definitly the way to go for high dbs, with low power, but box sizes are usually a little bit longer/wider, This isnt from one or 2 tests, I build t-lines for almost all my customers. Once I can sell a 10" in a t-line, tuned at 40hz, using a 40hz bass boost, and a small amp, and charge the customer an arm an leg in box design, the customers usually get mad props for the spl output.