Eskii

Not that it applies to you, but i use alpine diesel when i head to the mountains. Think it's got wax or some shizz to stopp it from being too cool

Pretty sure the car don't have EFI let alone computer!! As for turbo... 1990 stock eninge internals.... 2 PSI it up!!! Stay practical, not crazy! lol

No deal X .... That shit ain't funny. Kids a effin camera whore tryin to get famous. They never get far

x2 Not many amps are purely producing that much power straight out, most are internally strapped

Subs up, port back....

That shits crazy! Who thinks an equalizer roof lining would look sick ME!

With bracing it's be one clean soundin trunk!

This things is lookin better all the time mate!!!! It'd drive ya nut drivin that thing down my way! Australia... the land of dust

Question is do the subs you want to get have a good reputiation for overpowering?? Quality brands can most likely take the 250Watts each due to impedence rise with temprature and line loss in the wires etc... But if the subs are Mega Boom Boom super Dooper "600WATT!!!" subs from ebay etc, then no, under power them. SO vote is overpowering, within reason

Order straight from scott with a wallet full of cash for shipping! lol

Sold the Nissan Patrol today... FUK THAT!!! (And fuk yeah !$!$!$!$!$!)

"This new option adds a machined aluminum compression plug to the pole which helps channel all of the air under the dustcap around the coil for better cooling. To aid with this increased airflow we also add 6 axial cooling channels in the top plate. Along with increased thermal capacity comes the addition of an extra spider and a changed spider pack for a little extra mechanical ability. All of these new features increase power handling from 200-500 Watts depending on the application."" BP option

Firstly, you'll need to fuse ya amps so they don't cook. No offence but seems like ya pretty new to the game, we'll help ya out but! Secondly, you won't be able to run 2000+RMS of ya stock alternator... You're problem is that ya engine is pretty small, so H/O alternator is gonna be a struggle to install. As for batteries, you'll need atleast a big ass deep cycle (100 A/Hr +), which will putt a fair load on ya stock alt. My tip is to stay around 1000WRMS if you don't plan on some serious electrical upgrades. Focus on making a solid box for what ever sub(s) you decide to go with, ditch those JB prefabs!!

IMO, not really worth putting much money into an old camry. If you want cheap horse power; cold air intake, exhaust and aftermarket ignition system... Welcome to SMD by the way! Representing Australia!

Don't be a road toll statistic and drive under the limit junior

I'd say that volume should be alright if you're pretty much maxing the subs power wise. LEt me know when you're gonna go ahead with this so i can pop you out some sorta enclosure design. Lookin at Aeros or just square port...

Just look at a max 100Amp reputable brand MIG. If you're only doiung brackets, 100Amps is plenty. If ya doin H/D like 1/2 plate, then you'll need a bit more. D'you have CIG weld in the U.S? I've got a CIG 220Amp and it's best investment ever.

3 Speed fan... Huge heatsink... Chunky MOSFETS... Under-rated... Line her up with a power hungry 1Ohm sub and you're laughin mate!!

def go some 12's, more cone area! and good choice by emat for the amp, will run very nicely i'd think so!! Thoughts on enclosure?? gonna go sub, port back??

You should be able if you build the box solid enough and put close to 2.5Kw on each sub... Perhaps external port(s) could be an option? You're putin this in a SUV yeah???

defs go for 1 15" if you've got decent sapce, but if you need a thin enclosure, 10s'll suit you better. Oh and 10's don't necassarily sound more punchy than 15's, all in the build!!

welcome dude, SMD is the place to be if ya lookin at building an off tap sound system

My worst is a 4AM call from my buddy. Pretty much same deal. He actually lives over your way now

Vid from one of my adventures... Enjoy! http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...ideoID=27843628

x2 classic!