The Performer

Don't think there's anything you can do about it on the alpine itself, however sounds like a problem with the way your computer is writing the files to the drive. Are you positive that the folders are strickly as names when you added them to the drive? A possibility you could try is adding a number to the beginning of the folder name such as "01 *folder*" That might organize them better for you.

Desoldering braid. Will work for a while, but will most likely fail after some time. Great for temporary.

College Station. A little north of Houston. But I don't think I'll be doing anything extravagant anytime soon with my $300 stereo too loud ticket.

Hypnotist...

Was seriously about to buy some components from them. Good thread.

A few weeks ago my 9887 was playing an mp3 cd and it just stopped about halfway through the track it was on and went ahead to the next one. First strange thing it's ever done, and I was bewildered at first, but then pulled the cd out and noticed a massive scratch. Plast-x FTW. No more cd scratch.

Ya know that's funny because I've now got a buddy who cant register on it either. Wonder what the deal is? Maybe it's an exclusive only site now.

Personally I say the hell with glass cloth, it's more of a pain in the ass and when you use chop mat correctly it's just as strong. Use chopped mat and after time you'll see why it's much better. A side note to that don't cut your mat into pieces, instead TEAR them into strips and pieces you'll use. Don't use fleece if you can help it, use ponte, it wont soak up and waste as much resin thus not being as heavy in the end. Kitty hair? Depending on what you're filling you shouldn't need. Most likely your design will use mostly glass to form the shape you're going for. Kitty hair is for building your shape when something does not need to be built up, but instead needs to be filled. (specific tweeter pods in A-pillars for example) You will most likely need some sort of body filler, but your main goal is to use as little of it as possible. You want your glass work to be the most of the build. Use your filler to smooth out your low spots and fill pin holes only. If you're going to be painting, look into working with a milkshake to work out all of the pin holes. Other things you will want are ALOT of cheap chip brushes that you wont feel bad about throwing away. (Cut the bristles shorter to give yourself a stiffer brush to work with) Get them from harbor frieght or so, pick up a box of latex gloves to wear when working with the resin. Look into some heavy grit sand paper while you're at it. (32 for knocking down the glass and filler, then up to 200. 400-800 if you're going to be painting them) Also pick up a few paint quart cups from home depot (the plastic kind, to mix your resin in. After the resin cures in the cups you can peel it out and reuse the cups), some acetone, and a few paint stirring sticks. Save a few tin cans to set your brushes in acetone. Buy or borrow a respirator from someone for when it comes time to sand on the glass. *CA glue and activator can be a lifesaver when it comes down to attaching your ponte to the panel or speaker rings, but dont forget the age old stapler as well. *You're working with plastic and glass together if I'm understanding correctly. Drill 1/8 holes around the areas where you want your glass to meed the plastic to give the resin a better chance at gripping. Even at that, dont depend 100% on it, try to work the glass to where it will be 100% attached as itself around the panel or else over time it will separate. *Never brush your resin ONTO the glass, instead stipple it INTO the glass. *Catch the body filler at the right stage while it's curing to roughly shape it and you will save yourself from alot of over excessive sanding. *Use baby powder on your skin before you sand glass, and it will prevent alot of itching. *Even more important than everything here, read and watch as many threads as you possibly can from others who have done it before, and especially note what the pro's are doing. There's a reason their work comes out the way it does, and just because they've been doing it forever, doesnt mean a newbie can do just as good as long as you plan out your process and know the right tips and tricks. Glassing is something you have to be fast AND even more precise with at the same time. Take a look at my build. That's my very first time working with FG, and I must say it wouldnt have came out half as good if I hadn't looked at every picture there was about glassing from guys before me and learning tips and tricks. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=26547 www.fiberglassforums.com (Sign up and absorb the knowledge before hand) Am I forgetting anything epicenter???

No just lame.

Bass eq setting is what's killing you I would bet. I'd be willing to bet because you're driving that sub with all that extension control you're heating up the voice coils therefore allowing them to lower their resistance. Then with that being presented to the amp it's causing it to over work and in turn over heat. Protection mode. Good point someone else mentioned is check your grounds.

Yep found it. http://www.tequipment.net/Velleman_hps10se.html

Adjust your amps? Really man, wouldn't be worth it if you're just needing it for that purpose and a one time use. A good one like a fluke will run you between $80-300. Seems steep right? Well think of it like this, if you plan on using it on a day to day basis and it's an essential tool that you use to put bread on the table, then the money is well worth it. If you just plan on using it for the amps, then losing it at the bottom of your tool box, don't waste the money. Oscilliscope is the way to go for adjusting your amp gains. It will visually show you where you are clipping as you're adjusting. The DMM way is pretty iffy. Now you can get a DMM/ocilliscope for about $150 I believe, I want to say steve got the exact one I'm thinking. (velleman maybe?) The cool thing there is that not only is it a oscilliscope but, a reputable brand of DMM which will give you many usefull features and yet again I'm talking as if it's a tool you plan to utilize on a daily basis. Tuning by ear is what most people do, there's advantages and disadvantages to it. You get someone who doesnt know what they are listening for and you could have an amp clipping, you have someone who does know what to listen for and you got the job done without any expenses on any tools to do it.

Oh I know... I'll even say it once more. Fiberglassforums.com

That doesn't bother me as long as you see me stopping in front of you and not look up at the last minute when your grill is in my ass and try and lock your brakes up. Anyway, so I've been jamming this track in the truck all day and yes, I like it it's got that blues/rock/rap feel and it seems to work very well together. I'd say a good track to jam.

Not sure if I like it yet, but very creative with the rap/rock aspect. name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>"> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350">Just a lil side note, houston is not all that bad ass, I just got back from there and you bastards cant drive for shit. I see now why txting and driving is such a big problem. I swear if I had a ranch hand rear bumper one of you ass holes would have your piece of shit toyota corrola's totaled after I break check you. End of rant, enjoy the song.

Fiberglassforums.com

00 silverado? You forgot a few things buddy, singlecab? ext. cab? Double layered? Kind of some good details to have.

No I see what you mean, you just completely eliminated the low feed from going to the switch as the high beams are on. There's nothing wrong with that, however if your low beams are controlled through a relay from the stock, then it wouldn't feed there anyway. If it was a non relay system powering your headlights, then yes you would have feed going to the switch. I highly doubt it would matter, and or hurt the system, however either way works. So anyway, lets hear when you get it working.

Heres a few pics I got today from those installs I did. This is from a 94 silverado, This one is from the 83, which is not mounted in place at the moment as the guy is re building his front end after a collision.

You had to have a 5 pin?

Heres what I'm describing by adding the relay.

I'll try and draw out a diagram real quick for you.

Ok to clear a few things up, here's whats happening with the diode vs relay. Both do the same exact thing, one just uses an extra relay. The problem that is being fixed is that most vehicles have a system in which the high beam headlight setting only affects the high beams, meaning when the high beams are activated, the vehicles low beams are no longer switched on. I have 3 diodes in the pins of my 03 silverado BCM harness plug, that's DRL's>Fog lights Fog lights>Low beams Low beams>High beams This means, when the truck turns on at night, because of the auto feature the lows turn on, which cause the fog lights to also get a trigger, which cause the DRL's to get a trigger. Whenever Highs are turned on, it causes Lows to turn on, which cause fogs, which cause DRL's. That's what's called the high 8. 8 lights on whenever High beams are triggered, now the reason for the diode is it allows current to flow only one way. Hence being in the day time, the DRL's are on, but cant accidentally feed back to trigger the Fogs on, then on to the lows, then to the highs. Technically you could tap your wiring from the high beam switch to the low beam switch, however what would happen is whenever you turn your lows on, it would feed to your highs. But that's not what we want, we want our high beams to trigger our lows, and not the other way around. This is where diodes and relays come into play. The reason this is the same, is that most newer trucks are running off a ground switch system, meaning the relay is getting power to the coil, which is not grounded. Whenever the light switch is activated, it presents a ground to the already positive relay coil, therefore activating the relay to turn on the switch. Technically even older vehicles that use a relay to feed it's headlights, can be triggered in the same sense. Find the two relay switch trigger wires, add a diode that will activate the relay you want to stay on and there you have it. With even older vehicles, such as my buddies '83 chevy, I had to add the relay. In his truck there are no headlight relays, the headlight switch itself is what went straight from the battery to the headlamp. What happens here, is I find the two feed wires that come from the fuse box/switch for the Low beams and high beams. If you catch the wiring before it splits to the passenger side you will only need one relay, alot of people use 2, (1 for each headlight, but that is unnecessary) decide which of the two wires control what. (Low/High) You will then tap into your low feed with the same gauge wire as the factory (never smaller) because this will be the 12v feed. Now you will connect this to pin 30 or 87 on your relay (we will use 30 for this explanation purpose) then you will run another lead of wire from 87 to a constant 12v source (EX:+ post of the battery) Be sure to fuse this with the same value of fuse as the factory Low beam fuse. (This will be the secondary feed to your low beams, so just think of copying the original run to the low beams) Now onto the rest of the pins. Use a wire to tap into the High beam wire feed (this wire can be smaller because it will only be used as a trigger for the relay (EX:200ma) Connect this to pin 86 or 85 of the relay (For example purpose we will say 85) Then from pin 86 you can use a small gauge of wire to run to a suitable ground source. Usually when I install these I use a self tapping screw to mount the relay to a grounded spot of metal under the hood near the driver side headlamp, and using the same screw I attach the ground wire with a ring terminal. Anyway, I hope this helps, I really wish I had taken some pictures from all the installs I did. I might have another one coming up and Ill be sure to take some good pics.

On your 03 you should have been able to do that under the dash at the BCM. Not sure if he can do the same being a '98. To the original poster, if you still are having the problem send me a PM and I'll make a write up on how you can do it just with the relay you have and the rest on your own. Those kits with the relays are rediculously overpriced, when you can do the same thing for cheap.

Some people believe that it's an unfair statement to say "use condoms when you have sex and don't have kids" Personally I didn't see what the guys problem was, as if it was too late to stretch a trojan over the kids head or something. He would have quit making noise and running around after a minute or two of it...