The Performer

Just now seeing this bro. You're going to need a good filler primer, when you see my PM later you'll see about the duplicolor filler primer works pretty good. If you decide to get me to help you with your pods I'll check out the box as well.

Don't put on a clear coat after 2000 grit or you'll have a hard time getting it to stick. Wouldn't even worry about a clear coat, just polish.

I know we won't be getting these in the US, but just for curiosity purposes how well did these work for you guys that have them? From the looks of them they seem like they've got alot of umph to them.

Kevin Hart is hilarious. I saw his special on TV and the comedy central presents. "Let him go devil! Take me instead"

I'm all for bass and everything and I can understand that when I'm driving around playing loud music then they can deal with it since I'm only going by for a second anyway. However when it comes to neighbors who are going to be in the area for as long as your playing then I usually try and keep it down to a minimum. Not telling anyone what to do but for fucks sake if you don't want to hear your neighbors complain and bitch, then don't give them anything to complain about. Consider this, yeah loud bass isn't all that big a deal, and maybe to you "it's only on volume level 10" but it's noticable obviously to them and maybe it's a type of music they just cant stand. For all you hardcore rap fans doesn't it give you a headache when someones blaring the most redneck gospel country crap and you have to listen to it? Might be the same situation for your neighbors with your music, so consider that. Put it this way, if I had a neighbor that played even if it was BARELY turned up, as long as I could hear it, I would go straight over and saw the bastards head off. So put yourself in their shoes and imagine the music you're playing is THAT song and see if you don't kinda see where they're coming from.^That was the worst song I could think of now so that's why I used it.

I'm still a bit curious with my situation. I've been doing quite a bit of research on the situation and I've found that alot of people say the reason tinsels break is they "whip the cone" if they are too long, and they break if they are too short. I'm pretty sure when I got the subs that the leads were not too short, because the excursion was fine, and I would have noticed right away just by looking at them. So I can maybe see the leads whipping and that causing it to break, however that doesn't explain why it seems like the lead has been pulled into the cone? I'll just have to just do a full inspection when I pull the dustcap I guess. Atleast now I know why there's the felt above the tinsels now. I'm assuming now that this was what was causing my "popping" sound when that sub was reaching full excursion? Can't wait to get my soldier back on the battlefield. EDIT: Forgot to add that I was reading and one guy suggested putting heatshrink around the tinsel to make it last longer. Is this true or ?

I like it, but hate it. The whole new "rock" hype that he's trying to build up for his next cd just sounds like he's running out of ideas for new stuff to sing about, even though he's got like a billion songs and only about a handful are good. Forgot to mention as well, this track has terrible bass for a rock track, I think I'm going to boost it so I can feel like I'm getting the "Metallica" bass effect. I'll save my opinions though until that cd comes out, you never know what can happen now a days.

That was what I was thinking when I first saw that!

I wouldn't waste my money on that screw gun with the screws on a belt. Those are pretty expensive, and are for hanging drywall and unless you do so everyday of the week I wouldn't see that thing paying for itself. I say keep buying more makita and rigid stuff, you did good on those!

No joke! Thanks for replying so quickly rusty, If you're thinking a tinsel replacement would be sufficient then by all means I'll take your word for it. I'm just confused about what would cause the tinsel to tighten up like it did? If it would be less of a hassle for me to take care of it then you guys then that's fine. I'd rather not go through the trouble of shipping this heavy bastard off unless the problem is more severe than I can handle. Maybe some of you guys on the forum here can give me a run through on what is involved in replacing them beforehand? For instance, how do I go about removing the dustcap, and re running the tinsels, then how do I replace the dustcap? And most importantly what about glue do I need? Rusty I'll PM you my longitude and latitude and that would be great if you could send me the items I need! And when about are those great looking DC shirts going to be available?

That was my first assumption because I've had a sub in the past that the voice coil had unwound inside and pulled the tinsels tight. So I've seen a similar situation before, However, from what I can see the voice coil looks superbly fine, no signs of burned at all. It looks like it's darkened at the ends of the tinsel in the picture, but I assure you it's just broken, with no signs of burn. Now on the other side I just now took a real close look at it and where the first turn of the tinsel is off of the terminal it looks a little weak, but in no way does it show signs of burning. It appears almost like it's just been wearing due to it being in motion constantly. I am 100% certain this cannot be because of overpowering of any sort, because I've been powering them the exact recommended specs since the day I got them. Just a really strange situation.

Looks like it's an add on. In the description it says you put it with "existing bass setup" so I would assume it just gives vibrations to accompany the sound? I would just spend the money on the real deal and reproduce sound like it was intended to be reproduced. (With good ole fashion multiple subwoofers)

Here's the pic of my fallen soldier. You can kinda see how the tinsel appears as if it's been pulled into the cone because it's shorter. This is the ohm reading of the broken voicecoil tinsel side. Then this is the side that is still fine. I sent a pm to rusty so now I just get to wait for a response.

So comes to find out I've been hearing a strange almost popping type sound coming from my right sub and I couldn't figure out where or why. Today I pulled out the sub to take a look and low and behold I've got a COMPLETELY broken tinsel lead. So my sub has been running on 1 voice coil. Might I add running on 1 voice coil with almost NO signs besides a TINY popping sound that I had mistaken for a corner of my trim panel. So to say the least my satisfaction of DC audio's subwoofers is beyond amazing, I've never seen a sub do such a thing and still work like a true soldier. Now my main concern is what do I do? It appears that the tinsel is broken because of it being pulled or stretched from towards the cone of the sub, however the others are fine. There are no indications what so ever of it burning or over excursion or any of the likes, I'm just curious if there isn't a flaw beneath the dust cap that over time allowed this to happen? I can see the coils in the motor and they look just the way they did the day I got them, and the subs have never been overpowered, They are two DC lvl2 10"s with DVC 4ohm (300w rms, 600w peak), ran together to give the amp a 1 ohm load, at which the amp supplies 600watts rms. (The perfect scenario you could put these subs to). Another reason why I'm surprised at this situation is that I can test the resistance of the voice coils with my fluke and I'm getting 4ohms average on each coil even though the tinsel is broken which is another reason why I'm stumped at what the problem is. It's a strange situation because it's nothing like a simple fix where the tinsel just needs to be resoldered to the terminal, because it seems like it has been shortened and when the speaker would extend it would just break again. I'm gonna PM rusty and see what he says and if he'd take a look at it for me, as well as post up some pics here and see what you guys might know about what exactly happened. I'm kinda sad but I'm atleast glad I went with DC hearing from how well customer service is. Again I must say I've never seen a sub take a handicap like that and keep on going like nothing happened.

Me and my brother listen to Rush Limbaugh and Sean Hannity everyday we're working, does that count? Reason I say is because I think those two tell it how it is as well, plus they're beyond entertaining.

This forum now has everything except the kitchen sink. Steve what are you going to do once you've conquered all of the internet?

My friend, my friend... You've just been kicked in the nuts...

See that alpine is the bomb right?

Lately I've been enjoying keystone. Look around for the red can, it's the bomb! This is the only pic I could find, cant embed it... http://community.webshots.com/photo/fullsi...063959667Zbenzm Either way, it's the shizzy!

Lol turns out I have no class friday... Actually I haven't had class for a good while now, I had to drop my only class. But no drinking until the weekend for me.

That could be a pack of smokes I guess... I say that now, watch them skyrocket up in price even more... I just dread the future when gas jumps way back up.

As soon as I saw this I decided I'm going to do it myself on something eventually.

I use just cheap harbor freight chip brushes with the ends snipped short so that you can dab the resin with the bristles more stiff.

Don't use acetone, just rough it up with a sander. To the original poster. If you're fast enough, then by all means put as many layers as you can before the resin begins to cure. Put resin down first, lay the mat, dab it into the resin, lay more mat, then dab more resin, and continue UNLESS the resin begins to cure then begin to wrap your laying up and let it cure, then hit it with a sander before laying more mat. If you're working on something small and you're experienced with glass then you can usually finish the whole part with one batch of resin and have all your mat layers done in one run. If you're doing something big, i would just focus on one layer at a time.

He might be right, as any kind of electrical component I can only assume that if you throw an amp into protect ALOT of times, I guess it could be possible that the thermal sensor could have gotten weaker over time and simply cuts into protect easier and with less heat than it should.