Armoredhaulin

Those are great cables. I would stay with them if they are in good condition unless you want to get new ones.

The Matrix will help alot. It is a great piece. I am putting 4 of them in my truck, so I guess that says something...haha! By boosting the signal before any kind of processing is the best way to go in my opinion.

Right...the distortion would be the hard part on the speakers...not the actual volume level....should have clarified I guess.

All these damn abreveations....can't keep up with half of them...haha!

You can't series/parallel 2 6x9's....it would be either series or parallel, so either a 2ohm or 8ohm....8ohm would be pointless because the power would be so low you would most likely blow the speakers trying to get some decent volume out of them. 2ohm would work as long as the HU can hancle that low of ohm load.

What the hell does that mean? LOL!

It should sound fine as long as it has the Monsoon system in it. It is decent on the upper end but needs more on the low end. My GF & Bro had the same car so I can relate.

I assume that you only need a 2ch line driver? I would go with the Phoenix Gold LD....nice piece and not overly pricey... http://cgi.ebay.com/PHOENIX-GOLD-TLD22-CAR...%3A1%7C294%3A50

That's assuming that the speakers that are in there are 4ohms & the new ones are 4ohms also. Factory speakers can have all different ohm ratings so unless you know for sure I would suggest against it. I wouldn't run anything lower than a 4ohm load off of a HU anyway.

You got it....use the un-waxed resin for any layers other than your last. It doesn't cost much more or can be cheaper than the "bondo" gallons you can get at Lowes or Home Depot that alot of people use depending on where you get it from. Any fiberglass supply houses can supply you with what you need. Then use the normal "waxed" resin for your final coat before sanding. To me it's crazy to spend alot of time in between coats sanding the waxed resin just to apply another coat. I always do just one layer at a time. The thicker you make the curing layers the hotter it will get and you can have distortion or warpage issues.

Yeah, you want the holes to bigger than the OD of the screws your using. You don't want to be screwing into the plexi. Regular drills work fine on it the first time through, if the holes need to be opened up, when you try to re-drill the hole the drill will grab and might crack the plexi or your wrist...whatever one is weaker...

Headunit/source: Always been a Pioneer fan, had Alpine & Eclipse units in the past but always end up back with a Pioneer unit. Amps: Soundstream. Specifically Oldschool first gen Tarantula series. I've had many others in the past but these are by far my favorite. Others include: Alpine, Pioneer, Kicker, Jbl, Xtant & Macintosh. Subs: Such a wide range of great subs it's really hard to choose a favorite. Right now going with Soundstream Reference R1-15's Speakers: Same responce as with the subs. Processors: Audiocontrol...'nuff said. Wire/cable: Tsunami Interconnects: Monster Cable Power distro: Whoever has what I need, as long as it's not crap. Sound Control: Second Skin Batteries: XS or Kinetik...both are great in my opinion.

You could, but it's not needed if you just connect a relay in to the remote path. If you connected a switch and forgot to turn it off, the amps would stay on until your battery dies.

Just think of it as if you were connecting a relay. Same thing here. When the amp recieves the 12V from the head unit, it closes the internal circuit to power on the amp. Voltage/current is usually a non issue as long as it recieves enough to cycle, it will be fine. As mentioned above, if you try to power on to many amps, the current demands of the amps will excede that of what the H/U is capable of putting out so you will need power a relay from the remote wire to send a higher current to the amps.

It can be done if the application is right for it. I am mounting 16 15" Soundstream R1 subs in the roof of my truck...haha! I was able to do it with my truck so I figured why not...I had never seen it done before and neither had anyone else I talked to about it. If your creative enough to be able to pull it off I say go for it. Good luck!

I was thinking the same thing but I'm not one to make suggestions about others not operating the gear they have properly because you jusy never know.

I don't know what else to teel you other than calling or e-mailing Grizz and see if he has any info as to why all these XXX amps are failing. It could something very simple and they have already corrected the problem.

I wouldn't worry about it. Grizz will take care of you 100% if you should have an issue with it. Anytime I have an issue with any of my SS gear, which is hardly ever by the way, Grizz swaps it out no questions asked. He definatly stands behind us Team Soundstream guys and is more than willing to go to bat with the company owners if he feels it is needed. Anyway, I would talk to him and express your concerns and see what he can tell you.

I try to keep my enclosures within +/- 10% of the reccomended enclosure volume for sealed specs. I would think that because of the enclosure being over 1 cube larger than reccomemded that it is not playing to it's full potential and be extra "boomy" sounding. I would suggest that before you start cutting up the enclosure that you just temporaraly add some wood inside to reduce the air space and see what it does for you output. 1 cube is alot of space to fill up but it should give you a good idea as to what's up.

Hey Caddy, I'm not sure where you are getting that info from but it is way off. Epsilon Electronics is the parent company and they own: SOUNDSTREAM PRECISION POWER FARENHEIT ELITE POWER ACOUSTIK SPL - KOLE The new products are 1000% better than they were after the buy out years ago due to staff changes etc. A lot of people knock SS because of their knowledge of what was years ago and are unaware of what is going on in the company today.

It is a 3 to 1 ratio that is needed. Typical engine RPM for alternator specs are measured at 2000 RPM as this is typical driving RPM in most vehicles. So, for max output from your alternator at the 3 to 1 ratio, the alternator needs to spin at 6000 RPM. In order to get this to work to full potential, you would need a 10 HP electric motor which would be 3 phase. Not worth the time or money involved. Just buy a decent 12 power supply instead. It is a better way to go than a battery charger.

Agreed!