Nightshade

I doubt that the Jensen subs are designed to play midrange at all. It's already been said, get yourself some PA 10" woofers and use them as mid bass woofers. It's not smart to try and make a woofer play outside of it's frequency range, you will damage it.

I've also found out that the Sundown amps make more power and spl with the bass knobs unplugged. I've been doing this for almost a year on mine. Also try maxing out the crossover to 220hz and turning the sub sonic filter down to 10hz. This will let all signal pass through and will be louder than setting those to somewhere in the middle.

Actually if you beef up the triple joint and spider landing with some heavy duty epoxy those Konaki subs will do alright. The spider landing is the first part that will usually fail and if you can fix it and make it beefier than it is you shouldn't have any problems unless you are running tons of power on them. I'd do it too and there are several places to get recones at. fixmyspeaker.com is one of them.

For $200 plus shipping you both could do so much better on a component set. If you don't mind buying off the internet then check out the guys at onlinecarstereo.com They have very good prices on some of the best components out there. If it were me spending $200 on a set I'd go for another set of the Kicker RS65.2 comps. I have a pair of them and they are great. They have a new 09 model out, but I've never heard them so I can't give an opinion on them. The AQ comps just don't look like they're anything special. I've never heard them, but I bet that they aren't worth the price tag.

What kind of car is this in? Also any idea on the dash scores?

Sounds good man. Where exactly are you at? I'd love to have a demo of a loud trunk car sometime. I hear you on benefiting you more than a meter, but I addicted damnit. I can't help but want to make it loud on a meter.

If you wanna get technical then yes, but a t line is the same as a ported box with a really long port. How it acts is the difference. I don't really care for them myself unless your running under 1k watts. Anything over that I think that they lose their effectiveness.

Wish I could have been there to see that

It looks like it's pretty loud for a single 12. Any guesses to what it will do on a meter? One question, why did you put the port on the passenger side? I usually see trunk cars with boxes foward ported on drivers side to be the loudest.

A t line is just a ported box with a really really long port. There's not a whole lot special about them other than that and the frequency that your supposed to tune the line to. Which in most cases is a quarter wave length since the box would be rediclously large to fit otherwise.

If you don't mind me asking what amp was this anyway? 800 + watts at 4 ohms is pretty decent. Just think, if you can wire it down lower than you have it now I'd bet that you'll see at least a 2 db gain.

So you measured one burp to get the AC voltage and a seperate burp to get the AC current? If so there's nothing wrong wtih that. I've done it myself and then measured with two meters at the same time and there was only a 47 watt difference between the two calculations. I can tell you why there was the difference too, because of the loss of voltage after the first burp. The second burp didn't produce as much as the first and there was a little less power made. Unlike when measuring with both meters at the same time you won't get any loss in a second burp. You're good doing it this way, just remember that your probably making a little more power than what your calculating. In this case I'd say that you are probably over 800 watts and your rise is going to be a little less then what it is too.

First off you can't use an AC clamp to find the voltage of the amp. I've never seen one in my lifetime if there is one that can do it. I have a clamp meter that is also a dmm and I'm assuming that he has a similar one too. Just because he said clamp the wire for the voltage doesn't mean he acutally clamped it. It's a figure of speach that we use all the time in NSPL. We say that we are going to clamp the amp and that means that we are going to use a clamp to measure amperage and a dmm to measure voltage, but we just say we are going to clamp it. Based on his numbers I'd say that everthing is correct and he did do it the way he was supposed to. It would be bst if he were to jump in here and explain exactly how he went about getting the voltage and current readings that he got.

Yeah I'll definately help you out. I'll work on the design in the morning and pm you the specs that I come up with. Since you have an extremely odd shape for the box you'll have to come up with a cut list for the setup. Yes, to your using pvc and flaring it yourself. I have an 8" flared port that was done the same way as you described. It will work just as well if not better than an aeroport. For 3 12's I'd say around 6 cubes and a single 8" port would be 8.37sqin of port per cuft. It should work but is a bit small. If you could do a 9" port it would work out to be 10.59sqin per cuft and should be much better. I'm not sure if you'll be able to find a 9" piece of pipe though. Keep and eye out and let me know.

I'm not trying to impress anyone, just stating that he did nothing wrong with the way he measured. I compete in an organization that clamps your amps power to determine your power class. I've done it and seen it done over 500 times. Try not to take offense when someone is trying to teach you something. Since I really don't understand what your saying he did wrong please elaborate for me.

What are you talking about he got 60.7 volts AC from the sub wire and 13.1 amps AC from the same wire. That is the right way to test /story don't argue cause your not gonna change Ohms Law. He did nothing wrong except measure the battery wire going to the amp too which is useless for an rms power test.

Whoever said 795 watts is right. I don't know what your nominal impedence is but I'd have to guess around 1 ohm. You reactive or your rise if you will is 4.63 ohms and that is the impedence that you are making the 795 watts at. Sounds pretty right to me and I've tested a few amps in my day.

Kinda, but it's a little different than that. An active setup uses a digital crossover or head unit with a digital crossover to set the parameters for the speaker system. A passive is a built crossover with analog parts that work in the same type of way but are limited by what they can do. Active can be adjusted to the user's exact preferences and passive is prebuilt and determined by the crossover manufacturer. I may not be right on the money with my description either and I'm sure there is someone out there that can eloborate more, but for the most part it has to do with digital and analog. Here are some deffinitions for you that should sum it up: Passive Crossover: A crossover network dividing the frequencies without any active amplification or buffering components and which uses only resistors, capacitors and inductors. Active crossover: An electronic crossover which uses at least one active device for gain or buffering.

X2, fo sho. Also in some cases two amps will acutally cost less money than one larger one.

That's just it no one wants to get rid of their D3100's cause there just that good. If someone was quiting car audio then maybe, but very rarely do you see them forsale used. However I have 2 that I will sell you if your willing to pay

Nah, Chode's got the tiniest head ever man. That's actually a 10" woofer

I think that you can make the MX subs loud, but you may want to take some of the advice by Oldschool and maybe try another woofer. I don't think that it would be that hard to sell even 2 of them so you could try another type of sub. I'd honestly say that you have enough height for a pair of 15's in the truck. I would bet that a more spl oriented woofer in a 15 would work better for you. 1. You would have the space for some aeroports. Preferably a custom 10.5" flared aeroport in around a 7-7.5 cube box for daily but still able to to numbers. 2. Cone area is going to be a little less but only by about 100sqin and can be made up in the proper size box with the proper amount of port area. 3. Wiring options, do you have the Stetsom that will run at 1 ohm for daily? If so dual 1's would be your best choice. If not then obviously dual 2's will have to do for a 2 ohm load. One question is could you fit 2 15's butted up right against one another loaded on the passenger side of the truck with the big flared port loaded right up against the subs on the drivers side of the truck? It would need to be about 43" wide. If not you could just go with a custom 9.5" port that would still work out very well. It may also work to just run one sub on the drivers side and one on the passenger side with the flared port right in the middle of the two. It would look better this way, but might not be as loud on the term lab. I think that with the power that you have a pair of Nightshades would do the trick. If you sold only two of the MX's you should be able to even pick up a pair of used Nightshades to try out and if anything happens to them you can recone them so they'll be just like new. I'm not just trying to sell you on going with different woofers too, but in this case your trying to cram 10 pounds of shit in a 5 pound bag and it's affecting your spl dramatically. Give it some thought about doing 2 15's, and in the mean time I'd plan for 3 12's at most if you want to stick with what you've got.

If anyone has a used Alpine CDE or CDA deck I am interested in buying it from you. It can be a deck that just has the faceplate, harness, and deck. I need it for an external burp deck for my car. I am not looking to spend over $60 for the deck so if you have one laying around that you don't need let me know. I'm positive I can get one on Ebay for the price that I want to spend, but I'm going to look around and see what it out there first. Thanks in advance.

If you read the ebay ad the dude says it also includes the ground distro block. Go back to the ebay ad and reread it and see for yourself. Problem fixed /thread

It was 99 the other day here in Greensboro but with a humidity of 94%, so you figure it out. It felt way hotter than the 110 degree weather I've been in while visiting family if Phoenix. The humidity is what does it to you. Just ask anyone that lives where the humidity gets over 90% when it's 90 or hotter outside. It's way more unbearable than 110 degrees at 60% humidity.