brewer_brewer

if you want to stick with that amp, then GO WITH THE DC SOUND LAB LEVEL 3. get a dual 4 ohm level 3 and wire it at 2 ohms. that will give you your 500 watts. you can check them out at www.dcsoundlab.com, email rusty at [email protected] if you don't have a dealer in your area then you get dealer prices. i'm not going to tell you the prices on here because rusty likes to keep them hush hush. just shoot him an email with your zip code and he'll let you know. i would chose DC over FI anyday. rusty has amazing customer service and you will not be disappointed in any way.

does anyone remember those old candy cigarettes? i used to love those!

you can't wire a D1 to 1 ohm. and if you're talking about wiring two D1 coil subs to 1 ohm on a 1000 watt amp that would put him in the exact same position with 500 watts per sub. maybe you meant. get a dual 2 ohm. and wire it to 1 ohm on a 1000 watt amp. i had a AQ 1200D on a 15" SSD with bp option for a couple months, it took it like a champ.

i have had a couple ssd's. if you are going to upgrade your amp then i would say go for it other then the fact that i only suggest using different amps for different coils if you use one amp for the master and the other for the slave. don't try and set them up seperately unless you know what your doing if you are pushing 500 to each coil then step up to the flatwind coil and bp power option. or just get a dc level 4. if you don't upgrade your amp then go with a DC sound lab level 3 Dual 4 ohm. you'll be happier with that because you will be able to give it enough power if you wire it to 2 ohms.

i've use a couple. why?

he just wants a design. if he thinks he can build it then more power to him. where is this box going? in the back? what do you want it tuned to? FI's specs? do you want double baffle? give me some idea of exactly how you want it and i'll help you out. pm me. edit:forgot the pm thing :censored:

i'm the same way. just because my car says SVT on it my rates were 450 a month when i was 18. now at 20 it's 275 a month, but going through a local agent. find a local insurance company and you will save alot. i use corker associates, it's a local lawyer that does car insurance and it's full coverage just the same a progressive, geico, etc. saved me alot a month!

well after weeks and weeks of waiting on a reply from multiple emails to FI (nick, recone and sales) and RE i decided to shoot rusty from DC an email and got a response instantly. I ordered a recone for an RE SX 12" D2 from DC (not even their sub and he helped me). Got it today and reconed it. works perfect and looks great with the DC dust cap and now i am only buying from DC SOUND LABS. THANKS AGAIN RUSTY! KEEP UP YOUR GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE!

what frequency range are you trying to eliminate?

are you talking about drilling out the baffles in your muffler? or just drilling some random-ass hole in the exhaust? if you drill out the baffles properly it will make it alot louder, it is hit or miss on how good it sounds though. trial and error. i drilled out the baffles on my dad's cbr1000rr and it made it sound like a ducati. so it could make it sound better or could make it sound worse. it'll be def. be louder though.

DAVID, so are you owner/co-owner of the company? or just helping get the work out for them? SMD group buy? i want to build a wall that will "put two in the pink and one in the stink" or in otherwords just shock people. lol

1" blocks on top of the leaf springs. if you have leaf springs! idk what year you got (oh never mind you have a 2003) edit: i'm dumb

DC.

if you do the port 15" H X 2" W it will extend into the box 20.25" for 28HZ do you already have this box built?

3cu ft. at 33Hz. you wanna sell any of those?

what are the actual dimensions of the box?

funny shit

jeez. new style XXX's. expensive. you selling those?

are you using prefab boxes? if not then in plain english. dimensions = how wide is your trunk? how tall is your trunk? how deep is your trunk? if you want to do 3.5cu ft. per sub and tune it to say 35hz then we need the max dimensions of your trunk or hatch or whatever you have so we can help you figure out what you want to do. "I think that they are 17" height/ 30" depth/ and 33" width i have to make sure" 17" x 33" x 30" = 16830 divided by 1728 = roughly 9.7cu ft. thats over 4.5 feet per sub. i'm gonna give you some dimensions just because you sound really confused. build your box 17H x 24W x 33L and it'll give you roughly 7.7cu ft. once you take the port area out of that and the sub displacement you'll have about 3.5cu ft. separate the chambers and on each end (or in the middle) have a port for each chamber. now your port for each chamber will be 15.5" tall X 2" wide and will extend into the box 16.32". this will give you a tuning frequency of roughly 33 HZ. i hope this kinda clears stuff up for you. if you will draw up a picture on paint or something of how you want your box i'll help you out some more.

a bad battery will sometimes show a good voltage until a load is put on it. that might be the sign that your batt is about to say "Fu@# you mr. car owner"

get it. then sell it to me for $105 and you just bought yourself a taco or hamburger!

what dimensions? what type of hifonics? ported or sealed? give more information.

go here. this will give you some good ideas. he has a really nice single cab system. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=26547

i've got a hatch and i personally like a my ported box on the driver side facing the passenger side fender. sounds the loudest and cleanest to me.

ported is gonna be louder. but you'll always get a db or two louder with the windows down or cracked. there are some freak installs that get louder sealed though. what size is your box? i'm assuming the pic in your avatar is your sub, so with that, you'll gain a lot by building a bigger ported box because that is one small box.