creyc

Gorilla Zoe - Juice Box is about as close as you'll get to a perfect 37Hz tone for and EXTENDED period of time.

Got mine in the mail today, the things a beast! Dropped right in to my '01 Blazer, easiest upgrade ever, and one of the cheaper upgrades as well!

Not the ring terminals, but the connector plug correct? I will try this. As for the ring terminals, they are brand new so I doubt that would be the issue. By the way these readings are also "cold". Actually right after installing...

I just installed my MechMan Rhino alternator in my '01 Chevy blazer and changed the belt out at the same time. The old stock CS130D was on its last leg but still putting out decent power despite visibly burned copper inside and a slight grinding noise from the bearing. Idle voltage was a somewhat steady 14.3v however. With the new mechman alt in place I'm reading around 13.5v, regardless of RPMs. (800-4000) The Dyno sheet that came with the alt says Voltage set point: 14.3. Why am I seeing mid 13's if it's set to 14.3? All these readings are without excessive loads, just interior lights and fan running, SAZ-3000D on but not playing, and Kinetik HC1800 in the back.

bumppp. Anyone have any you want to part with? Or know if the new ones have different T/S properties from the old ones? (with the RE style tinsels and felt pad)

Oh efficiency! The SAZ-3000D is awesome in that respect. Going from two SAE-1000D's to one 3000D (running at 2-ohm) is so much easier on my electrical system. And even though its 'technically' 400 watts LESS rated power, it definitely sounds louder to the ear.

Edit: This guy clearly does know what he's talking about! (I just checked out some of his builds, very nice ) Miscommunication strikes again. I added the word in boldface which would have originally solved everything. Cheers!

Sadly it looks that way, no offense. "Monoblock" simply means 1 channel, as opposed to a stereo amplifier. A monoblock amp can be 1-ohm stable, 2-ohm stable, 8-ohm stable, etc etc... "Mono" merely makes reference to the number of channels, or 1, and has NO bearing whatsoever on the minimum ohm load the amp is stable to. Just trying to help keep the misinformation at a minimum. I know all this stuff can be confusing enough for people just getting into the hobby, throwing questionable terminology around doesn't help anyone. Please don't take it personally, I'm just trying to help.

I think I'll just add two more dual-2 havocs, dropping the load from 2-ohm to 1-ohm AND putting less strain on each individual coil, since it was brought up these aren't really SPL subs. Best of both worlds IMO. 750 per Havoc should sound great, too.

It depends on the line. From what I've seen and heard, the SAE line seems to be rated at 14.4v while the SAZ line is rated at 12v. This means the SAE line does just about honest power while the SAZ lineup (1500, 3000D) are a tad underrated. I don't have an o-scope so I couldn't tell you exactly how much mine is putting out but I can tell by ear it's louder than most amps i've used of identical power rating. As far as Sundown vs Rockford, I think you'll hear both sides. It also depends on WHICH rockford amps you compare. The old Power series with the big gray cases are beasts. Watt for rated watt I think Rockford takes the edge over the Sundowns. The new small chassis power series aren't as bad ass as the old amps they replaced, and given the choice between a new Power series or a Sundown, I'd probably go with Sundown, cost not a factor. Usually cost does play a factor though, and for the same price you can usually buy more Sundown watts than RF. But that's often the case with boutique brands...hope this helps

Between 625 (minimum rated) and 700 watts per woofer. Each amp is a little different, it will come with a birthsheet which confirms it actually does 2500+

magnet looks larger than cutout?

So the Kicker ZX2500.1 isn't a monoblock? lol News to me.

Funny, I'm left handed as well which made looking for a good self defense pistol quite fun. I went with a Smith and Wesson M&P compact 9mm. One of the cool features (apart from fitting my hand amazingly well thanks to interchangeable palm swells) is that the gun is completely ambidextrous. I've got the mag release on the right to use with my left thumb, and the slide release is on both sides. Now go take that thing to the range!

It's a very nice handgun, interesting choice with the .40. Ever shot a .40 cal handgun? Some people (including myself) don't like the recoil in comparison to a 9mm or .45 ACP. That glock will give you years of reliable service, very fine weapons.

hehe I think keeping the gains at 1500 would be just about identical to getting two 1500Ds! (and cheaper) I suppose it's my bad experiences running these sundown amps to their max which makes me hesitant about going for the 1500s...I wonder how long they would last at full output? (1500D's)

I HAD two SAE-1000D's and bridging them was a miserable experience. I'm not sure if it was bridging related but I also had some bad noise issues in that setup. Efficiency was crap, they got quite warm during use and the stronger one ultimately ended up killing the other one. (or something to that effect, Chris at dB R fixed it up for me) I was never happy with that setup. Now running one amp I have none of those issues, the amp runs COLD all day long, piece of cake to wire up, and voltage doesn't so much as drop even slightly. Plus I just bought the 3000D, so I'm not ready to get rid of it just yet. I could however grab another 3000D and just keep the gains at around 1500 RMS each, which should be quite a bit louder and still quite efficient.

12g is a bit hardcore imo. I use that on my subs. 16 awg is perfectly fine for that mids/highs amp. It'll save you some $$ too.

haha exactly. I've been following this thread on and off since it first started (when I was a lurker ) but must have missed any reference to the nitrogen part. And good call on the 40 posts per page, cut the thread size in half! (man I feel like an idiot. nitro bottle explanation was a page back. I first saw it a few weeks ago when he got the cover made for it and thought hmm?)

Call me naive but what's the nitrogen tank for and where does it go? Is it for something with the airbag system? Seems like and awfully big tank to try to stuff somewhere in the car..

Not every amp is 1-ohm stable, you do know? Whomever mentioned the Kicker ZX2500 was smart, that amp does rated power at 2-ohms, which is perfect for his application. You're looking for an amp that does between 2000-3000 RMS at 2-ohms. You COULD run two 1000 watt strapable mono blocks at 1-ohm, but that just seems like more of a bother than it's worth. I used to to run two SAE-1000D's strapped and I'm much happier now running a single 3000D, even though I'm putting out less overall power.

Army Guy's picture just shows the exact same thing except using short "jumper wires" to connect both + terminals of the sub together, as well as both - terminals. In your drawing both + wires are internally connected in the amp, as well as both - wires. Electrically it's the same thing. You're fine.

I didn't even consider fusing higher, but that makes sense given that it will put out a bit more power AND run quite a bit less efficiently = more current draw. I DO plan on running this amp conservatively, heck I already am running at 2 ohms, but I would love to get more out of it SAFELY. I don't have the funds to replace equipment by continuously pushing it to its limit, and I'm not a competitor. I'm looking for long term reliability, at or around 3000 watts. From what most of you have said, it sounds like 0.5 is really pushing this amp for long term reliability. That's not what I'm after.

I just put a clamp meter on the speaker wire from the amp and a DMM on the output terminals of the amp and recorded the readings from 20-70Hz, at 1Hz increments. Then you toss it all in an excel spreadsheet (with the help of ohms law) and let it calculate your impedance values, (voltage/amps) and finally graph those new calculated values.

Not if I don't set the gain for more than 3kW I don't have an O-scope so I don't know exactly how much the amp could put out at 0.5 ohms, thus I would stick to what I KNOW it will do at least, 3000 RMS. Not sure if this helps explain my situation, but here's an impedance graph I made at 2-ohm nominal. Even though its 2 ohm, with box rise the MINIMUM my amp sees is 3.5 ohms, slightly below tuning frequency in the low 30's. I'm sure if I kept the volume way way down I could safely create a new impedance chart at 0.5 ohms just for testing purposes. If the results were that impedance never dropped below 1-ohm, would I be fairly safe? As for not being able to keep voltage up, I find hard to believe. The alt does 250A conservatively (not at idle of course), and the amp is only fused 50A higher, at 300A. The battery suggestions posted here seem quite over the top for 3000 watts RMS on music. But you guys have more experience with this than I, so I guess I'll stay with 2-ohms.