mbaty1

This is all I could find, need to know the program name that Pro.7 played this on.... Pro 7, or ProSieben, is one of the largest privately owned German TV station. Their slogan is "We love to entertain you." be interesting to see which one they showed and stuff.... grats!! EDIT: LOL, looks like decaf beat me to the punch there.....

Anyone able to provide some input by chance? Here is a little bit more info if it helps..... This speaker (Punch HX2) has an Qts of 0.39, so it is pretty close to spot on the mark for an "ideal" speaker to utilize (wish I had the other T/S specs of the speaker to verify), but since it was right at or slightly above the desired Qts, I wasn't sure if there would be any adverse effects to tuning slightly higher. I am going to run with this design and see how it works out. Figure it might not dig down quite as low as I would like, running slightly high tuning freq. should help prevent any damage to the speaker from over excursion and such. I wish I had a few extra inches of width to work with, but really limited to 34" wide..... Current box works out to roughly (at work, don't have exact specs) 34" wide x 22 1/2" deep x 13 1/2" tall with a port/line area of 6.5"x12". The HX2 measures right at 10" from middle of surround to middle of surround, so working that out, I went 5x5=25 - 25 x pi = 78.53981.... (rounded down to 78) 78/12=6.5 which gave me my final port/line area of 78sq in so I went with 6.5"x12" to keep things simple. If it is critical to reach closer to Fs of the speaker, I can try and modify the port dimensions (making it taller and skinnier) allowing me to possible get an additional line if I were to increase the depth of the box by another few inches. Just trying to get this hammered out before start construction. Thanks for any input you may have!

I was coming up with a plan for a t-line box for an HX2, and have a couple questions.... The Fs of the speaker is 26hz, and I know you should generally tune to the speaker Fs, but is it OK to tune a little higher? Reason I ask is that I would need a length of about 10.5 feet to get down to a 26 hz tune; however, when working with the dimensions I had, I could only work out about 8.5ft in line length... tuning to roughly 32hz by my calculations... Would there be any adverse effects of making it this way? Would it actually help from bottoming out the speaker since it shouldn't dig down below it's capabilities? Any input would be truly appreciated. I created a t-line for a couple 7 kv.2's and was amazed by the output, and the tuning was right around 35hz, so I'm thinking this should work out nicely and still be able to dig down fairly low. I guess the only true way to find out would be to make it and see how it sounds, but trying to get any info about effects of tuning higher than the speaker Fs when making a t-line. Thanks for your time and assistance!

I take it you are running each channel seperate to and active front stage? Would/Could it be better and allow you more power if you were to bridge the channels, and use an active crossover instead of utilizing the individual channels to each speaker? I love me some Xtant goodness!!! My eventual setup I am looking to either go all Xtant (1001x and 604x's) or Diamond (D7 series).... they have been my go to amp for SQ (not to mention all underrated to boot since they used 12v ratings), especially considering their price point versus other "SQ" oriented brands.

EDIT: sorry for the double post... must be something up with my internet again....

When you say it doesn't work on 14v, only 12v, what exactly do you mean??? Most people's charging systems are 12v rated but charge at 13.8-14.4 regularly.... What is the actual issue with the amp is really the question I am asking I guess... I am interested, just need a few more details before I could commit....

oh come on guys... you all talk as though you have never seen a van before with the engine housing/cover in between the front two seats.... usually has cheap plastic/wood "accessories" on it..... but I'd LOVE to see a couple of these in action inside a van, biggest cargo area I've seen them in is an extended Expedition.....

Man... you don't know HOW jealous I am right now... lol I still have my original Season of da Sickness CD... all scratched to hell and still playing like a BEAST!!!! Just something SOOOO raw back in the day, heck, most artists now days won't even touch rhymes on that level!!! He is definitely an old school legend!! Props to chillin'!!!

I remember following these liek a year ago when they were making them.... CRAZY subs for sure!! :hairtrick:

A couple buddies have done it that way and worked but I personally have had no experience in that area...

well, to begin with, that was a 1200 watts amplifier, 2400 watts is it's "MAX" rating which is nearly never reached unless you severly clip the signal to that thing... you should utilize the "RMS" wattage ratings when asking questions like these, which in this case turns out to mean you could get away with using 4 gauge wire; however, probably best to run 1/0 from your battery to your amp, then run into through a fused distributin block and use a 4 gauge from the distro block to the amp. Hope that helps some...

Hey Meade, Beautiful seats man (saw the pics in your other thread) I'm sure... but just curious, what who do you use to host your pictures that you post online?? The only reason I ask is I used to be able to view nearly all pics/vids before from work, but now I only can see a few posts pics..... Example given, I was looking at the Group 31 battery For Sale thread and can see the batteries he has, but I am not able to view your current pictures of yoru seats. Can't wait to see your actual ones, only saw the "demo" version in your previous thread.... Thanks for the input, just kind of wondering what site my work is starting to filter now and which ones aren't..... Fricken work internet filters!!!!

well... just not enough info to go on here.... Do you have the ability to draw a sketch of the box that you have in mind so others can have a visual of how it would look when constructed? There are ways to not get cancellation (if there are partition/walls nlocking part of the trunk) and then some setups have crazy cancellation. All depends on the setup, obstructions that would redirect the sound waves, dampening materials to absorb some/certain freq's, etc....

I'm trying to think of the product, but there is an AWESOME (yet older, possibly disontinued) product that you spray in your engine bay, and it literally takes all your black rubber/plastic back to that nice dark, factory look. Man... I want to call id CD-4 or something like that. I used to get it at my local automotive store years ago, but then I could only find it online after that. I haven't even thought about it for quite some time, so give me a little bit. If I think of or verify the product name, I will let you know.... Nice thing about this product was, you spray it and leave it, no need to wash off. If your bay is all sorts of dirty, it's suggested to use a degreaser before use to get the heavier stuff off.....

there are plenty of places that are able/willing to have you ship it to them for testing and review, and then they can provide a decent estimate on repairs. Most of these places that my friends have used charge a base rate per range of wattage the amp produces (e.g. $79 for 100-500 watt amps, $119 for 501-1000 watt amps, $200 for anything larger) so it all depends on the actual repair shop you use. This specific amplifier can be had for as much as you will be spending to get it repaired possibly, so your best bet might just be to pick up another one (or look for better in the for sale section), but again, it could be something simple that someone would be willing to resolve for cheap.... personal preference it looks like...

Yeah, after doing the math in the initial post, I noticed that it is actually 4 times the power instead of only twice the power as the original title suggests. I think I've convinced myself that I'll go ahead and do the single 10" sub running at full power. Now the choices begin, because I'll have an extra 10" sub available to use in the wife's car, but I was originally going to make a box for 2 of the ED 7kv's in her little saturn, but now maybe I'll have to save those for another project and give her this sub. 2 - 6.5" subs versus 1 - 10" sub, I'm thinking the wife will enjoy the 10" more...... Sure glad I haven't build her box yet... hehehe

Hello everyone, I just had a quick question that I am having troubles being 100% confident I have the answer figured out. I have been doing research on this topic and most places you read state that doubling your power to your sub generates roughly a 3db gain. These same places state that adding a second sub using the same power (1 sub with 500 watts or 2 subs using 250 wats each) would add 3db of output due to the increase in cone area. So here's my situation: I am redoing my car, and in the process I am working on getting the wife a little thump in her trunk. I currently have 2 10" subs (dual 4ohm) wired up to a 4 ohm load and was debating on switching my setup to only have one sub in my car, wired at 2-ohms (doubling power to sub). This would in effect nearly quadruple the power the one sub is receiving (250 watts x1 at 4 ohms, running 2 subs = 125 watts per sub. 500 watts x1 at 2 ohms to one sub if I change). With this being said, should I actually hear more output from single sub running at 2 ohm versus my 2 subs running at 4 ohms? Or would I not feel the "impact" as much since there is not as much cone area moving the air? Any help/advice would be truly appreciated!

I'd be tempted just for the logo... had an old shirt with a similar logo on it... hehehe Website is a little on the "light" side, but would definitely love to see some of these in action some time!

I have run a few Diamond subs and they are a pretty nice sub overall.... I have had my 10's for almost 8 years now, and they are slamming as hard now as they did back then. If I were you, I would go for the Diamond subs since they are generally pretty good quality built items and you'll be able to pick up 2 for the price of 1 of many other brands. Just my $0.02...

Doing the Big-3 will ensure that you are passing as much amprage as possible from the alternator to your batteries in an effecient manner. It ALWAYS helps your car, no matter if you have a system or not, or whether that is a 500 wat system or 5,000 watt system, I would do the big-3 on most any vehicle...... Also, your last diagram was ALMOST right.... forgot the one fuse from the 2nd battery positive to the amp.... total of 3 fuses will be needed in total.

Interesting situation to say the least.... not generally something that the big-3 would cause unless you knocked something loose when you were getting all the wire hooked up and tightened down. Either that or you might have some wires crossing somewhere, and if it's a power wire, you could be sending a constant current to whatever wires might be crossed like your horn and such. Kind of doubt this though, since you usually don't get this lucky and just have your horn go off constantly, generally causes something to get fried and the wonderful smoke/smell of electrical..... Wish I could be of more help but never run into this situation personally. My best guess is still that you knocked something loose or maybe cracked a different wire when installing and tightening everything down.

Well, not sure on the overall sound honestly, I try and stay away from iTunes as much as possible. I use a program called Audacity to convert, cut, mix, etc and it has options in there that WAY exceed the normal bit rates, but not sure how well it works when going above 128 bits, starts to create HUGE files anything higher than that. Also, not sure how the software works with these types of programs, but is it really all that plausible that you could take a song that was recorded at a lower bit rate and "up convert" in into a 256 or even a 512 bit rate?? I mean, how does the program know what was "originally" recorded and how to recreate all that lost data??? just something that always kind of confused me. But you guys might want to try Audacity as well, pretty nice little program....

Thanks for that input Kandiman!!! Was not aware of any issues like that (kind of why I posted this thread)!! worst part, don't have any voltage meters, guess I should get some before I proceed with my current plans just to ensure no issues arise and so I can finally see how my electrical system is actually doing. Keep the advice/input coming guys if you can think of any other issues that might arise or anything else you can think of that might be useful to myself and others on the forum.

Trully appreciate the quick response guys!!! I kind of figured as much, but figured it best to triple check with you guys before I do anything stupid with the electrical.... all it takes is one bad connection to fry the car, and all that would do is cause a WHOLE lot of :censored: :censored: :censored: ... hehehe