HHR Ed

did you seal the gap around the ports?

you can paint the bed liner grey. or any color you like

Got any pics of said box?

Got any pics of said box?

Why not bedliner?

check out at 4:10 on my video. my car with 4)12s in a ported box off a 10,000w amp. did 153s and double basses like no other.

BUT!!!! a 4000 watt rms 18 sure the hell is much stiffer then a 600 watt 12 so giving the 4000 rms sub 1200 watts will be under powered and not move as much as the 12's with the same power.. you could run a bigger more effecinet box but that will only go so far in all my testing the subs getting there rms was allways louder and less peaky then the under powered sub Just because a woofer can handle more power, does not meant that it will be stiffer. In fact, it shouldnt be. Some are, yes, but it depends on the woofer. The stiffness of some woofers is a side effect of the adding lateral control to the suspension. You can say. But you are saying that your woofers get smelly from 600w rms each? I think you may have another issue at hand and that distortion. Have you attempted to adjust gains and level settings with an O-scope or any clipping meter? Or the help of a knowledgeable gain setter? Proper tuning can be your solution. Also, if you are looking to upgrade, a higher end single 18 does have the potential to perform better. I would suggest an efficient woofer but also set your gains right or you may have the same issue. The sub im looking at is an SMD 18 The gains were set buy an authorized JL audio dealer. as for clipping the headunit never goes above 24/35 and the ipod is on 80/100 i check all my songs on audacity for clipping as well. if i see one clipped note, it doesn't play ever. to much money in this system with little to no bang That sub is a beast that can handle a ton of heat. But has been shown to shine at power levels above 3000w. If your gains are correct, the enclosure and choice of program material can be another issue if you play songs below the tuning frequency. If all that is good, maybe you do just need (and I feel you want) to upgrade the woofers. The easiest upgrade is just a beefier pair of 12s. But going to a single beefy 18 does give you the chance to upgrade to higher power in the near future.

BUT!!!! a 4000 watt rms 18 sure the hell is much stiffer then a 600 watt 12 so giving the 4000 rms sub 1200 watts will be under powered and not move as much as the 12's with the same power.. you could run a bigger more effecinet box but that will only go so far in all my testing the subs getting there rms was allways louder and less peaky then the under powered sub Just because a woofer can handle more power, does not meant that it will be stiffer. In fact, it shouldnt be. Some are, yes, but it depends on the woofer. The stiffness of some woofers is a side effect of the adding lateral control to the suspension. true im just use to my monster stiffies i guess lol and im a competetor MORE POWER!!! lol Monster woofers have given me monster stiffies. Wait... What....?

BUT!!!! a 4000 watt rms 18 sure the hell is much stiffer then a 600 watt 12 so giving the 4000 rms sub 1200 watts will be under powered and not move as much as the 12's with the same power.. you could run a bigger more effecinet box but that will only go so far in all my testing the subs getting there rms was allways louder and less peaky then the under powered sub Just because a woofer can handle more power, does not meant that it will be stiffer. In fact, it shouldnt be. Some are, yes, but it depends on the woofer. The stiffness of some woofers is a side effect of the adding lateral control to the suspension. You can say. But you are saying that your woofers get smelly from 600w rms each? I think you may have another issue at hand and that distortion. Have you attempted to adjust gains and level settings with an O-scope or any clipping meter? Or the help of a knowledgeable gain setter? Proper tuning can be your solution. Also, if you are looking to upgrade, a higher end single 18 does have the potential to perform better. I would suggest an efficient woofer but also set your gains right or you may have the same issue.

BUT!!!! a 4000 watt rms 18 sure the hell is much stiffer then a 600 watt 12 so giving the 4000 rms sub 1200 watts will be under powered and not move as much as the 12's with the same power.. you could run a bigger more effecinet box but that will only go so far in all my testing the subs getting there rms was allways louder and less peaky then the under powered sub Just because a woofer can handle more power, does not meant that it will be stiffer. In fact, it shouldnt be. Some are, yes, but it depends on the woofer. The stiffness of some woofers is a side effect of the adding lateral control to the suspension.

Unforfently i am not allowed to post about any specific brand because it will bring rager's ill get banned ill PM you the brand i am looking at and have atm. You can post your brand of subs if you want, If you want proper help from posters, you have to. I am a mod, I will allow it.

I think by "Air movement" The above posters really mean displacement. At 1200w total, how much air can 225 sq inches of cone area displace at its given excursion at that power Vs. 250 sq inches of cone area at it's excursion at that power level. Depends on what woofers you are talking about.

I see more and more misunderstandings about this subject. Power HANDLING has just about nothing to do with how loud a woofer will play. Just how much power the sub will handle. You can have a 10,000w rms woofer get just as loud on 100w as a 100w rms woofer. It's other factors in the woofer construction that determine its loudness. And no, an 18 is not "Stiffer" than 12s. that is not a factor. What it can come down to is the materials used and construction of the woofers. If all that is equal, a single 18 has about 250 sq inches of cone area Two 12s have about 225 sq inches of cone area. This means that the single 18 does have a greater Potential to be louder. Another factor is that the greater power handling of the single 18 would mean that it will run more reliable and more efficiently due to staying well below it's thermal limit. However power being spread over multiple coils can also exhibit that effect. Ultimately what it will come down to is the enclosure, a pair of 12s may work better in smaller trunk cars due to the enclosure techniques and the single 18 may work better in a larger hatchback for the same reason. It's up to you and your enclosure design and building capabilities.

yep, steel, concrete, all types of wood, plastic, fiberglass resin, granite, acrylic, and yes even tiles have been done before. The point in any of that is for a rigid, smooth surface, but using some materials can add an unwanted resonance at certain frequencies so for SPL that can work well, but for SQ not so much. I use the good ol fiberglass resin/sand/portland cement mixture for a solid, resonant free material. Oh and also hexagons and octagons have also been widely used with just OK results. Believe it or not, simple rectangles and squares have performed the best in cars, with some key angle shaping on the interior corners.

with a 160A stock alt? 120A or 140A is the largest stock alts I have ever seen. If its a true 160A thats awesome

160A STOCK Alt? What kind of car do you have?

Actually, the 151 to 171 was with my MTX 81000Ds. I added power from show to show but also they didnt switch to the TermLab till 2003 so the meters could fluctuate from show to show. So to me, the changes in 2003 were more impressive and accurate.

Holy crap that's a huge gain! Yup, those were the days I experimented a lot and didnt have a meter, so I found out things at the show. And I remember the one on April of 03, 1 show on a saturday I thought I'd have thin competition so I showed up with 1 woofer running off a 400w amp. And a guy beat me, so I showed up the next day for the next show with 2 subs and a 1500w amp whats subs and amp that a huge increase from that change none the less a 151 on a single sub with 400 watts It was my old walled car with 2) 15" MTX RFLs. Built for burps in SS 1-2 class. 400w amp was a RF 200.2 from 96. Then I started using my MTX 1501Ds from 2002

Holy crap that's a huge gain! Yup, those were the days I experimented a lot and didnt have a meter, so I found out things at the show. And I remember the one on April of 03, 1 show on a saturday I thought I'd have thin competition so I showed up with 1 woofer running off a 400w amp. And a guy beat me, so I showed up the next day for the next show with 2 subs and a 1500w amp

My 3 largest increases from show to show, in the same car and class are as follows 1. 06/30/2002 - 151.2 dB to 07/28/2002 - 171 dB 2. 04/19/2003 - 145 dB to 04/20/2003 - 155.1 dB 3. 06/21/2003 - 150.3 dB to 07/13/2003 - 167.5 dB

yeah WMM is the last resort, its kinda glitchy on transitions too.

What program does he use already? I use Adobe Premier Pro but it can cost a lot if you arent pirating it, and it takes a lot of learning to use it right. You can also look into Sony Vegas Pro and even Windows Movie maker allows you to add music and output HD as long as you add the plugins.

Damn man, I wish the family well, seemed like a nice guy.

looks very nice

Ive been around. Ive been building up things to get my own business off the ground. And crap, I couldnt find that transparent video screen, I was looking cause I knew they were there, but too many people all over and I didnt get to see it.