Ben Building

Good points, Boon. 2500 watts RMS per sub is an ungodly amount of power in a transmission line. However, I have played with many, many subwoofers that can take a lot more mechanical abuse than you would suspect. I say it would damage the coil eletrically before the mechanical limits become apparant. You will want to pay extra attention to your amp(s) subsonic filter though and be responsible with the volume knob. I say build it and see how it does. BOSE does this kind of stuff all the time. Let him builld his box; this probably won't be his last exotic box, so he needs to do this one.

Do you see that long end of your port? Imagine if you had a long peice of 1/2 inch mdf that is the same width as the port. That is your brace. Lay that peice inside the port. Got it? Ok, now raise it up halfway.... In reality, your brace would not need to go down the whole lenght of the port, but you get the picture. Then, you could glue two dowels (space them out) onto each of those fingers you have forming the wiggly shape of the port and have a very strong box that ties into the center braces. You're going to run 5000 watts in a transmission line and not double that front baffle, are you?

I have (2) BNIB New Hifonics Brutus BXi 1210Ds (1200 watts RMS each) that would work great on that sub. They are the 2010 strappable versions. I'll take $335 plus shipping for both.

It's killing the lows. That box is huge!

You will want to place the braces laterally (parallel to the top and bottom of the box) inside the ports. Round them over really well on their leading edges with a router bit and you're good. Actually, you will want to round ALL the peices inside the port. Also, have you thought of putting small 45s in the corners? You really need to do that, even if it's only a 1.5 inches from the inside. You need something to keep the air flowing through your corners since you have so many of them. This box should bang if you build it right. Just pay attention to AIRFLOW inside your port for maximum effect. The formulas that you used to predict this enclosure's behavior can't predict turbulence since turbulence is, by definition, chaotic. You can't predict chaos. Only when the airflow is smooth and even can we accurately model a port's performance before we make it! Good Luck! :hairtrick:

You might want to get a recone kit for that. LMAO The magnet would probably fall off.

Big 3, of course; but, how long will your power wire be? The longer it is, the thicker it needs to be. Second battery in the back: Nothing extreme on a stock alternator unless you want to replace it soon. Make sure all your grounds are on thick metal and CLEAN.

What are the Treos rated for? The manufacterers ratings are for a reason. You don't want to overpower a sub in an oversize box.

Your port is jacked up a little, but it looks nice. Try going more conventional if you can't accomodate all your design elements.

That looks brutal. I see five aeroports, which have (duh) five times more internal surface friction and shear stress as one aeroport. A square port with resin inside would have definitely had lower head losses than 5 aeros. This dude has power to spare though.

If possible, try experimenting with your current box before you build another one. You are running sub up/ port back right now, but what happens when you turn that same box around so that the port faces front? Left side? Right Side? In Explorers, I try to keep all the output as close to the back hatch as possible. Hasn't failed me yet.... :hairtrick:

Shaping your box on an angle is not going to adversely affect your bass as long as your volume is correct. In fact, your box may have less standing waves inside it than a square-sided box, so it will probably should a little better with the angle than without.

I would definitely do the square port as opposed to the rectangular one, if I were you. All things being equal between the square and rectangular port, the square port will be louder because it will have less surface friction inside the port. Also, if you can, move that port up so it doesn't share one wall with the enclosure. This will also make your port flow better. Other than that, make sure you brace on all 3 degrees and tie them together in the middle. Looks good!

Like this? The shirts are $20.

The 90 degree turn in the pipe will cause a lot of head loss from the initial impulse due to the null area in the low-pressure side (vena) of the port bend. The amount of head losses are inversely proportionate to the size of the bend radius. If you are going to bend your round port, use a very big turn, if possible. Otherwise, you should maybe think of building one large square port (rounded on BOTH ends). That way, you could keep your port surface area down by using only 1 port and bend the port a lot easier. If you decide to go with the square port, I would definitely recommend 45s (or kerfs) as well as strakes in the bend of the port. Expo Sport, you're the man for that enclosure program!

Isobaric bandpass?

$75 would have been a great deal on one of those, but you got two. Something like a slinky inside one? I don't like the sound of that. All subs have a slinky inside; it's called the voice coil. They can sound like that after they come loose from the former. If that was the case, your impedance readings would probably be crazy. Have you hooked it up to see if it works?

I wish I could come out there and work with you. We'd have a dryer converted into a subwoofer before you knew it!!

x2 Good work trying to establish an actual testing procedure (that's fun too). Your box should be larger. If you make it too big, you can always take up space in increments inside the box with stuff to bring the vb back down. As for the ports, a 45'ed slot port would have been louder, but 1 large square port would be better. :hairtrick:

The parameters can tell you everything about a subwoofer, especially if you get into manually calculating your enclosures. So many of us are waiting for the Thiele/Small numbers so that we can see how this radical new brute compares to normal subs. A lot changes with twice the motor force, increased coil mass, travel, etc., etc.. This is huge. Never before in Car Audio has an organic company like AA introduced a product with so much anticipation. I personally am so exited to see this. Nobody has really broken the mold in a while, so hopefully this sub will become an epic success. When these hit the market and videos of some double-baffled, Power Ported monsters hit Youtube, the demand will be incredible. BTW it would be awesome if production versions of these hit the Lanes this year.

I bought a whole bunch of these a while ago and these are the ones that I didn't get around to wearing, didn't match my stuff, or don't fit. They have been taking up space in my closet until the other day, so here you go. Actually, I have a few more that I will post pics of in a while. What size do you need?

One more down. Better get them while you can, guys. This is a great pricel on these!

Port shape. The following is a general description of the types of pressure losses involved with each commonly-used port shape: 1. Round Port= Low Head Loss (Drag) 2. Square Port= Medium Head Loss 3. Slot port= More Head Loss What this means is that, with a more efficient port shape, more of your enclosure's internal pressure finds its way into free-field as opposed to that same energy being dissipated inside the port. With your port more efficient at flowing air, the efficiency of your whole subwoofer system is improved. If your are currently using slot ports, you will definitely want to try one large round port (if possible). Since the round port is more efficient at flowing air than a square-shaped one, you will need less port area to flow an equal amount of air at similar pressures. Smaller port area makes your port shorter for the same tuning frequency, thereby saving your valuable box space. Since it is hard to find a 9 inch round pipe when you need it and it is hard to bend round ports, you may want to compromise and build a giant square port. Just make sure to build a 45 into it and smooth both the front and rear openings of the port (Tiger Hair or Bondo is better).

Yes, I still have that one.

Just noticing that you need more info for anyone to help you. You stated that you want the new box to ride the fender wells a bit while. This means you at least need the dimensions for the space between the fender wells and for the space on top of them (you would think it would be even, but sometimes it is not). You can probably design your own box if you do a little research. Try looking at ways to improve the efficiency of your port. Extra strength and bracing is always good, but your primary gains will come from how the port flows.