CodyB

It looked like they used allthread and some pipe as spacers and to add a little stability to it too.

A camera *SHOULD NOT* read the autorun.inf since, you guessed it, its not an os. Also check to see if there is a physical lock on it just for giggles, some do have this and theyre hard to tell sometimes when its engaged...

Tried formatting the sd card in a camera?

Oh wow, Im in Jonesboro, AR, I might have to come find your shop some time, Whats the address so i can google it?

And two guys asking about the motors in this thread even.

I have a bunch of Northface gear, as in backpacks and camping gear, best internal frame pack Ive used except for those custom molded osprey packs.

Looked at Firefox extensions such as down-them-all or other downloaders?

Good luck with the fill. You got me out in my shop working on my cart again. Mine just needed a relay changed out and a tire fixed but I just let it set for a long time... Do you run the voltage regulator for your battery bank to drop it to 12v for your accessories or a separate 12v source batt(s)?

No its the one that had the Jeep frontend fabbed up to it. BGW Jeep Harley Davidson Link

I could not find any headlight relays in the engine bay, that doesn't mean there is not any under the dash, just figured I'd eliminate the worry of something going poof since my low beams are my drl's too. The only difference between drl and full on is my amber lights. With that in mind I felt better disconnecting any feed back to the switch. I just assumed that the full feed went to my dimmer switch in the column or close to there so *IF* it went poof, it would be in my lap... Less to go poof makes me feel easier. Sorry if I thread-jacked.

Buggies Gone Wild, sweet My '73 Harley is on there somewhere I believe. Could you not go with bigger round ports for a shorter port length and less port noise?

That was the way I wanted it setup, no diodes, pin 30 is usually the one you apply the B+ to. Well I put my accessory on pin 30 and B+ to 87, and on 87a I put the original wire from my low beam switch. Just felt better with the low beam not getting powered back to the switch/computer. I could have done it with a 4 pin but wanted to do it with the 5 pin. If you want it drawn out I can.

Just got mine done, $20 in plugs and $10 in relay (Long story, its not easy to find a true five pin relay in my town...) Having all four headlights on is sweet. Getting it hooked up and not cutting a single wire on my truck was about the only thing to not totally suck today...

Custom option for extra monies, One of those the customer would ask for kinda thing?

Raw then. Have the machine shop etch Sundown Z v2 around the outside? Just tossing around Ideas.

If anything anodized, powder coating does not look as good to me. Off topic, wouldn't the powder coating reduce heat transfer, act as an insulator?

Now I just need to find a 96-98 Chevy full-size that is being parted out to steal a part of the wiring harness to make my life easy.

Well, if it is like my '96 C1500 it doesn't have relays under the hood. They may be under the dash but there is a round plug about one inch big, it is on the drivers side and nearly to the firewall. On mine its got all the power and ground connections for the headlights and turn/park lights, a diode between two connectors could probably make all 4 beams run at once. I have not tried this yet, I'm planning on getting the pair of connectors and add a relay in line without cutting any of my harnesses. Good luck Mr Clark, if yours has this plug I can give you my pin out, or do like I did and just poke around it with a DMM.

Thats what I was thinking, I didnt think the LVL3 motor would be enough for an 18" cone. I had asked about it before but from what was explained to me it wouldnt be good for my application. Good luck with yours and I want to see how these do.

Well the way I was thinking was since there is some sort of AC signal going into your system since the introduction of your EQ, then maybe put diodes on its power wires to eliminate that AC feed from whatever it is and the better ground would be a good Idea too since your under there. When I posted my last couple of ones I was working on too little sleep so sorry if my posts were a little incoherent or hard to follow.

I will admit I didnt google RFBLD so I assumed it was some kind of device to cancel out static or sine waves? I was guessing it was a fosgate product... So news to me.

Maybe a stupid suggestion but what about putting diodes on the positive remote and negatives to the headunit and EQ? Let power only flow one direction to the sources and away from them too. They may already have diodes on the grounds but the engine or heater motor may be giving it just enough of a ripple to cause a problem? Might be on that end of the sources? Just trying to throw out a possibility.

Worst case youll have to go download them again but since you have them already theyll be free even if their paid apps.

Maybe get some pics of their rides/setups and add them beside the numbers?

With what 4 Sundown 8's?