kickass audio

I watched my co-worker on Tuesday get the guy to walk on one knee and move just one foot to get the guy to move like .2 meters every key press. it took him up to the end of his shift to get to 100 meters between calls. lmao!! The first time i played it i got the guy to do a cartwheel backwards and i had him walking backwards like a champ but you can only go so far before you hit the concrete wall lol My record so far is 55.6m.

Damn thats freaking badass. I bet the chicks love him in bed. lmfao!!

Its not needed to get a sound processor UNLESS you want to get controls over your equalizer and x-over settings. Other than that its not like you need one without a doubt for your car. Just like Ray said a high-low adapter would be sufficient for your system as long as its a good adapter. I had a friend of mine on here with crappy adapters that had a TON of distortion on them and when he went from the high-low adapter to the audiocontrol he had no distortion.

I havent used it but have seen reviews on people using it and knu wire is the best bang for the buck. Like their power wire its over spec for the actual gauge of the wire plus if you get the knu karma or kl3 wire, you will have extra sheeting over the wires that are run. Basically you have the normal positive and negative wires that have their sheeting on them throughout the wire AND you have a clear jacket over both pieces of the speaker wire so its an extra bit of protection to help from shorting out or cutting the wires. The kl3 would be the best thing you could run as it is OFC speaker cable but if you are like you said in the post the karma which is cca would be just as good. With my truck i have 14 gauge theinstallbay wire for all my mids and highs and its over sized with a pretty good jacket on it and its OFC as well. Plenty of people hate install bay wire but i got it for dirt cheap from a local shop and i checked the gauge of the wire before i bought it.

Damn bro thats awesome!! Glad you are alright with only minor burns. Now it makes me wish i held onto the old batteries i had and toss them into a fire pit lol

Ugly chicks lol. Sad thing is that it works too o.0. Yeah, I still haven't figured out why ladies are more attracted to "taken" guys... Quite simply put it like this. Women like to cheat. Ive been through it so many damn times with all of my ex's. But OP just play it cool, dont get weird around the ladies or act too different. Just be confident in yourself, look decent enough to not be an eye sore (lmao), be nice to the ladies unless they are a total bitch to you and ppl will see that and really like it. If you walk up to a chick and she doesnt look in the other direction or not at you when you are talking or have the "ooo look at that guy" facial expression then keep the convo going. If she does do that then try to get a convo going and if it doesnt work move onto the next one. Dont keep chasing the came chick because that comes off to be like a stalker and unless you have a crazy psycho on your hands they wont like that. Also one thing to keep in your mind as motivation is to think "i deserve that" and go after it. Dont give up just because one chick hurts you either, keep moving. Trust me i used to get all worked up when i broke up with my first 2 ex's but once you realize that there are bigger and better things out there you will move on and they will realize what you had that the other guys out there didnt and will run back begging for you.

Hey bro. Just want to give you some advice that my co-worker gave me and its actually working. lmao. He advised me to play it like baseball and have your starting 5. Get one chick so that she is your main chick and if she screws up put her to the back of the line and take the next chick. When they realize you are doing that they will start to act right around you and toward you. Im only 20 and just started doing this and its working like a charm. Im like you in the aspect of always making people want to laugh. One thing that ppl say and is 100% true is that if you crack a lame joke and she laughs then the chick is digging you. Just dont limit yourself to just chase one chick and dont go stalker on them. Like what you really need to do and what my co-worker also told me is that most chicks like to have you wait a day before you text them. For example if a chick gave you her number and said to call/text her today, dont do that until tomorrow. It gives chicks the vibe that you arent the kind of guy who just jumps in and out of things in a flash. Im not sure how you start up a convo with your ladies but try to start up a convo to see what they like and talk about that. Dont be the pussy who says "do you like shopping" and talk about that, hell to the NOO on that one. lol. Just like ask them if they like doing something that you enjoy (i tend to not tell chicks about my system cuz tbh the word spreads like wildfire and ppl know mine is loud as hell and scares everyone so they dont want to get in the truck with me for the fear of it killing their ears. lmfao) But just play it out and play it cool with the ladies and you will get it. Plus remember women are like their own facebook. If you get one chick that you treat right or are great to the word will spread around like wild fire and all the gang will know. lol. And just a little tip from me, dont let them know you are doing this if you do it but see if the one girl you like has a fb that is somewhat public. DONT add her, just look up her profile and see what she likes and stuff and strike up a convo about it. And chicks LOVE confident men. Dont talk down about yourself or anybody for the matter. Even if you dont have it made in life dont make it seem like that but dont make yourself look like king shit.

I did read that it was a power supply but it also said on the kinetik site that it was a battery charger too so i didnt know what would be the best way to wire that to my amp i want to run. And to carshateme, you still dont see what i mean by using a tiny toy battery charger to run the amp. Those toy chargers only made to trickle charge the battery they are intended for and will not put out more than a half to at the very most 1 amp of power to charge the battery. How will a 1 amp charger work for a 1400w rms amp? It wont, you will 100% blow that tiny ass transformer and overload the wire.

No offense but how would a remote control car battery charger provide 80+ amps of current to power the amp? It may have the voltage but it damn sure does not have the amperage.

The home amp would be wayy more expensive from what ive been looking at plus i used to run my old amps in my room and i thought they sounded so much better than home amps. As for power inverters those are mainly for dc>ac conversion not ac>dc which is what i need.

Computer power supplies wont provide half enough amperage to run that amp. I had a 1000w psu for it and it kept tripping the protection circuit on it from overloading it. Im over the computer power supply crap as they arent powerful enough plus they are always at 12v, thats not enough voltage, i need to have it in the 14's to keep the battery good.

Mods: please forgive me if this is the wrong section. I figured it would be geared more toward electrical as its pertaining a battery charger in which you normally would use for your vehicle Anyways i have a project i am working on to get my two 12" kicker cvx subs in my bedroom and run them off my old precision power pc2350 amp that was originally used for the stock cvx's when they were installed on my old car. Im not sure what the normal amperage load of that amp is but i would say its probably like 90-120 amps. I was talking with CJ18 on here and he brought up the idea to buy a Kinetik KIPS12-80 (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34482_Kinetik-KIPS12-80.html) to run the amp off of but im wondering if that can take the constant load of the amp. I was thinking to get that charger and connect it to the amp directly but thought that it might be bad as the amp would be surging the hell out of that power supply and i could burn it or the amp out. Then i was thinking maybe to get the charger and a tiny xs power battery like a d545 or maybe something else that is a sealed AGM battery that i could buy fairly cheap from on here and run that to the amp and have the charger act like the alternator and help keep the voltage up. Would this work or would i burn that unit out quick?

Thanks for the tip ill shut off the vertical sync on mine later today. I know this is obvious but did you clean the heatsinks on your processor and gpu? It kinda sounds like its overheating somewhere and is causing the lagging since it works fine for a few seconds and then starts lagging. And are these games that you are playing mainly LAN games or can you play like a single player mode on your local machine? If its a LAN game maybe your nic speed isn't working at its peak. Try to manually set the nic speed as high as your network can support (100mbps full or 1000mbps full) and I'd also try what everyone else said to install all the new drivers for it on all the hardware and see how it works otherwise maybe try a new graphics card.

Ok, to optimize every setting you need to go to control panel and there should be an option for nvidia control panel. Once you are in there you would want to look at the top left underneath "3d settings" and click on "manage 3d settings". For my new laptop im using right now (it has an nvidia geforce m555 with 3gb dedicated video memory) i set my settings accordingly. Ambient Occlusion: performance Anisotropic filtering: off Antialiasing gamma correction: on Antialiasing mode: override any application setting antialiasing setting: 2x antialiasing transparency: multisample cuda gpus: all (you may need to check the box if you have multiple graphics cards installed) maximum pre-rendered frames: 0 multi-display/mised gpu acceleration: single display performance mode (idk how many monitors you are using on your computer, since mine is a laptop i just set it to single display as im mainly using just the internal screen) power management mode: prefer maximum performance texture filtering anisotropic sample optimization: on texture filtering negative lod bias: allow texture filtering quality: high performance texture filtering trilinear optimization: on threaded optimization: on Triple buffering: on vertical sync: force on I set it all like that and my computer gets a 6.9 aero score for the graphics and gaming graphics. I have a 7.5 for the processor, 7.6 for the ram, and sadly a 5.9 for the hard drive until i go from dual 500gb drives to a dual 2tb and 256gb ssd drive setup.

Have you tried to go into the nvidia control panel and adjust your settings for optimum performance for EVERY setting? Also try to go into the control panel> power options> look for the plan that has the radio button selected and then click "edit plan settings" then click "advanced power settings" and scroll down to processor power management. Make sure the "system cooling policy" is set to active and that the "maximum processor state" is set to 100%. The maximum processor state will actually change the clock rates of your main processor so if its less than 100%, you arent operating at the full clock rate of your processor.

I am looking to sell my massive audio db8000 amp i have. Its 4kw at .5 ohms, 2kw at 1 ohm, and 1.2k at 2 ohms. That amp is a beast but i fried the other one i had since it was mounted on my box and vibrated so bad it cracked a few fets.

The warranty i believe is 1 year. Futurevision is a great company so im not trashing them at all. In fact im very pleased with the help i have received from them with everything i did to my lights. I had a capacitor mod to help boost the voltage of my drl's but that didnt change a single thing so i disconnected it. My relay is hooked to the stock wire to trigger it to turn on but its still getting raw power from the battery. I only had one other problem with my futurevision hid's where the one bulb had a hard time firing no matter what the temperature was or what ballast i used. It turned out that the wire had a break in it but Bruno at futurevision hooked me up and sent me a replacement bulb for no charge. They stand behind their product and have excellent customer service for it as well.

Just incase anyone has this problem i thought i would post the fix to this. I went out and swapped hid's, ballasts, and relays to find out one ballast is bad. So this problem is caused by a bad ballast, not wiring or the bulb.

Its really weird. I do have a tiny capacitor wired to my drl's but that would be bypassed when i turn the lights on my dash. I will try to disconnect the cap tomorrow and re-check all the wiring. I am not going to swap bulbs though because the light on my passenger side the clip that holds it on is broken in half so the light is barely held in with the busted bracket and im not cracking it in the cold. edit: it is not a cheap ballast. Its all futurevision hid.

Heres my little dilemma that i still need to troubleshoot but needed to see if anyone else incurred this with their hid's. What i have going on is that when my truck is running and i attempt to start my low beam hid's the driver side will not ignite but the passenger side does. They are both seperated for this exact same problem so both sides have a seperate relay, ballast, and obviously bulb. I can hear both relays clicking so that shows it is getting the signal to turn on the relay and provide power to the ballasts to ignite both lights. I had this problem yesterday when i was going to class but i was able to resolve it by turning my low beams on and off several times to fix it. Today that didnt work. It was 40 degrees outside yesterday but 20 today. I did the same thing as yesterday where i remote started my truck (it keeps my hid's off the entire time until i unlock the truck and it flashes them on and off fast then stops, i tried to find a way to disable this or cut the wire with no help), but when i get in my truck and take it off remote start mode and put it into normal mode the driver side light wont ignite. I tried the same thing i did yesterday with turning the lights on and off several times with no success. I tried for 2 minutes with no success so i said fuck it and put on my fog lights and drove home with one low beam and 2 working fogs. When i got home i tried again with the same failure. So i turned my truck off and turned the lights on and like magic they both worked without a glitch. I turned them on and off for over 2 minutes. So i then tried to turn my truck on and thats when i noticed that the driver side light would get slightly dimmer after the vehicle was on and running but would get brighter once i shut it off. So i decided to turn on the truck and get both lights working, turn the lights off, and try to turn them back on and the driver side failed to light. So pretty much to sum up this huge ass post when my truck is running and i attempt to turn on my hid's the one light will fail to fire. I didnt get into details of troubleshooting this yet as it was midnight and im not working this late at night in the dark to break something off. Do you think this could be the ballast or bulb? Im really thinking its the ballast that has a problem since the light will work without any problems if the truck is not running or its warmer out. Let me know what you guys think!!

Maybe its port noise? My smd's enclosure makes a TON of port noise when it gets really low but i am dealing with it. I would double check your port if it has one and make sure no parts of the box have cracks or leaks where the air can escape. It sounds like port noise or a leaky enclosure to me. edit: since it sounded ok in the vid of it being in free air i would try to turn the sub on its side in free-air to see if it does it to you then since thats how the sub is orientated in your enclosure.

Yea this glass didnt have the button glued on before they installed it. In fact i know it wasnt on because the button for the mirror had a cut in it when i took the mirror off before to clean the whole window easier and it had a dent in it where the screw held into the button and a little stamp on it. The first time it fell off the adhesive that was on there was almost like taking a piece of bubble gum and sticking that behind the button and holding it on. That one fell off when i adjusted the mirror. The other times it fell off when i had my music up. The part that surprised me about the new windshield is that the black area that supposedly blocks uv radiation from weakening the adhesive was between the glass panels. The oem window had it on the inside so if you were to feel the black strip for the mirror and those stupid dots across the top of the window it would be almost like a matte finish and to me would hold the glue on better.

They definitely did not set it up too high as if you look in between the defroster vents that are on the outside of the window between the wiper arms there are two stop blocks below them that the stock window rested right up against the bottom lip. The new windshield is far from that spot by about 3/4 of a inch. Im going to bite the bullet and see how much my dad bitches me out for it but maybe we can get something better than the shitty window they put on there. If i get the window replaced (i really think i am going to) what would you recommend i use to put that damn rearview mirror on and keep it there? I tried the same adhesive they use to hold the windshield down on the track with, the extreme strength windshield adhesive from advance automotive, and recently krazy glue. The glue sticks to the back of the button with no problem but all the other times it never stuck to the damn windshield except for this time where about 1/2 of the mirrors button stuck to the window and cracked a piece of the glass off and the other half did not stick to the window.

Ok, the one i have looks super thin when i looked at it from the side. Would you think if i put glass epoxy on it and put it back up there that i would have any problems? Also what if i put my mirror up there in the event that my outside mirrors either cannot defrost fast enough or fog up too heavily? you will have problems. I can almost say 100% positive. if theres a chunk missing, the structural integrity of the glass is now confiscated. won't be long till you hit a bump in the road or flex it too hard and it just spiders out. wonderful. i hope my insurance doesnt go up for getting another windshield when its barely been a month since it happened. this is bullshit, maybe if they actually used a good quality window it wouldnt have any problems like the pile of shit that was installed on my truck. some glass installers let you request a glass company (Pilkington, APTECH, etc.)...but it just can't be from a dealership unless your truck is within 2 years old....or unless you want to pay the difference that insurance won't cover. let the insurance company know what happened and they might cover it....also, laminated glass won't shatter, just spider and crack. Something has to be strong enough to get through both layers of glass + the laminate for any actual pieces to break off. i really hope they do cover it but my dad is going to have my ass for this happening. "you listen to your music too loud, whats the point in listening it that loud" smh. I loved the stock windshield that came with my truck. My truck is an 04 and the windshield that was on prior to the replacement had wiper blade scratch marks and tons of little nicks in the glass but it was fine. Last month a pretty good size pebble hit my windshield and put a tiny crack on the glass that is about the size of a rca connector so me and my dad called it into the insurance company. the part that sucks is that my dad called the insurance company before i could hit the windshield with a rubber mallet to try and make the micro crack bigger than a dollar bill so that they would have to replace the glass. Well we hit the spot on the glass really hard, in fact we hit it so hard that it made the inside mirror fall down and you could see the glass bending in and out but it never cracked out any further. The windshield that is on there now sounds a lot thinner than the oem one that my truck came with and it also doesnt go down as far on my windshield as the stock one did. I am by no means happy with this shitty glass repair job.

you're such a wuss. i wear shorts and short sleeve shirts all year round. Even when its snowing outside i still wear them when i go out for a little bit.