kickass audio

I would totally get some right now if i can get it at my door before the week of the 29th since thats when i start college again (fml) if i can get it by then, i will sure as hell take up on getting some of your great deadener for my truck. Let me know if this is possible and i will do it, if not then it will have to wait until the spring/summer until i have more free time and am not in classes or in the freezing cold trying to work.

Evan, I would pay Ryan anyway. i had his help with my box for my ascendant audio SMD 18 and it turned out great. I love how low it gets and how musical it is as well. Great job Ryan. If theres anyplace i can leave feedback for you i totally will (i didnt know if it should be on the sale feedback since it wasnt much of a sale on here) i pretty much had the box figured out on my own but i had the port too small so im glad i had his help with figuring it out. Also his drawings are very detailed and easy to follow, granted i took an autocad and DDP class in high school so i know how to read things like that it was still detailed and perfect to build.

Alright, that sounds great. I will have to get some of this next year though since i know i cant get it installed before i go back to school and ill be damned if i will do this in the winter, lol. Thank you for your help with this guys, i appreciate it.

I just didnt know if i kept this sitting in my room for half a year if it would do anything bad to it. I could buy them right now actually, money isnt always a problem with me. As for the deal, i dont have much of a need for the speaker tweaker pads as there is no base behind my door speakers and my door speakers sound good as it is, just gotta end the rattle in the doors near where the panel rests on the mount for the speaker (easy fix) and depending how well my truck performs after 2 years of me keeping it, i may deaden the entire truck but i will wait on that since ss is by no means cheap and im not going to throw money at something i cant transfer into another vehicle. lol. My envoy has 106k miles on it but is in great shape so i dont see any problems coming up with it but you never know, it is a gm vehicle we are talking about. rofl!!!

Ok yea i figured damp is very stick just wanted to make sure. And yes it is right above my rear window. I will have to order that up soon but idk how i can get it installed since i am going back to school in 2 weeks f-college. lol. So it will probably sit in my room until i can install it. Would this be bad to do at all or should i just wait until i am ready to get it and then do it.

My smd is only at 2 ohms getting about 4kw of power (i didnt clamp it yet tho) and it gets pretty loud. They do push air like a fan though, my entire truck is an air tunnel, even with all 4 windows down. For a single smd setup it is pretty good in my opinion and this is my first ground up build i have done too so im very impressed with it. And last question, will damp pro stick to plastic surfaces along with plastic that is on the exterior of my truck? The exterior part is just the high stop bar and it is black so i can apply it and let it sit in the sun or on the roof to get nice and hot and adhere to it.

CJ: i will get vids of it soon, just gotta find time, im still tuning it a little at a time. Im going to try to clamp it tomorrow. I had to change it from .25 ohms strapped to 2 ohms strapped because the amp kept going in protect. But im not too disappointed with how loud it gets on the low end. Toad: Alright i will get 3 door packs for it. Also like i said, the high stop light and the rear panel on the exterior shakes a ton, do you know how to fix these without breaking anything? Can i take them all off and put like one layer of damp pro on it even with just the high stop light being on the exterior?

Thanks a ton man, i saw about the competition deal you have going on. Also, from what i was messing with tonight, the high stop light and the plastic insert (where the licence plate screws in) rattle the most and make it sound like shit. The plate isnt rattling at all since i put rubber washers behind the screws. Do you think damp pro would really help it out? And one last thing, will this weigh down the liftgate so much that it wont support its own weight on the shocks i have? I have brand new shocks for the tailgate as one of the stock ones had a leak and wouldnt hold the gate up so the new ones are stiff as hell but i wanted to see if they would hold damp pro. I didnt know if this stuff is really heavy or not, i never used any deadener before so excuse me for my ignorance.

Yea it was my mistake, the other one is for the really old units. I believe its just because of the voltage difference in the generation ipods. Also from what i heard, apple started to change out what pins perform what activity. I heard that the one pin that charges the ipod was switched to another pin in the newer ipods so maybe thats your problem. I would check your ipod to see if it reads the message of "connected, charging not supported" mine reads that out to my sisters ipod nano, my old ipod touch, and my friends ipad.

i may have posted the wrong adapter so forgive me if it is wrong, the manual says to get this adapter: http://www.windycitysoundshop.com/popup_image.php?pID=159 Sorry for any confusion.

I tried to find the adapter for your unit but couldnt find it, nor could i find out which ipods are compatible. Alpine had that with my unit. The reason for it is that the older ipods charged at a full 12v of power, and the new ipods (5th gen and newer) charge at 5v. Your unit will play them just fine but since the voltage is so low it wont charge it one bit. The adapters for them look like this: http://www.techronic...ripherals-.html The red needs to be hooked to a source that either has constant 12v of power or is switched when you turn the key on to accessory or on. The black is ground. I would check to see if yours is hooked up or not, chances are it isnt hooked up or maybe a fuse blew or the wire came loose. Doesnt hurt to try ya know simple stuff can happen. edit: just remembered what i had happen to my sisters new ipod nano (4th gen i believe?? it has the camera in it) Anyways, when i hooked hers up to my radio it would play but not charge and i know it charges my ipod video 30gb i have. If you read the screen on the ipod, hers said "charging not supported" along with the alpine logo. Perhaps try to look at your ipod to see if it shows the same thing.

What generation ipod are you using? I know for my system (alpine iva-w205) if its an ipod newer than the classic 120 gig units, it will not charge them unless you get some special adapter. Also for mine it needs what alpine calls "high speed ipod connector" to play and charge the ipod. I just ordered one earlier since the one i have was modded to work in a dock and when my bass hits, the ipod jumps out of the dock, lmao. Tell us what model ipod you are using as this may be the problem. IDK if the bypass module would affect it charging as they are not related components at all but i cant say for sure since my unit came with the PAC bypass module and was already hooked up for me.

Alright, so i really need to get some sound deadener for my 2004 GMC Envoy. I installed my 18" AA SMD in my truck today and it rattles the shit out of my rear hatch since it is a sub and port back setup. I wanted to stop this as much as i can but am not sure on how much to order for it. I was thinking maybe two or three layers of damp pro will help?? If you could please tell me how many square feet i should get that would be helpful. Also, i need to have the wooden roller for it and it will be shipped to 14150 (Tonawanda, New York) If you could please tell me how much to buy and about how much it will come to it would be greatly appreciated. Thank You!!!

You sir nailed it on the head. The knobs on amps are made to adjust it if you bounce them off something or are at a certain angle from your ears, for example if they are right infront of your face, and are directly flush with your ears then the phase knob should be at 0. If the tweeters are turned lets say 30 degrees from your ears, then you would set the knob to 30 degrees. This is ONLY for amps with a phase knob. In case of a passive crossover with a on and off axis, it is just reversing the polarity of the speaker completely. This is considered to be a full 180 degree phase.

I realize that, tweeters NEVER have an on and off axis setting written on them since they are intended to be setup ON AXIS (as i previously stated, means positive to positive, negative to negative) Now if you have it wired like that with a crossover that DOES have the axis setting switch, then you can switch it on the fly by flipping the switch. If you DIDNT you can simply reverse the wires on the tweeter so that the negative wire connects to the positive terminal on your tweeter. Re read what i posted before and try to understand it. please stop posting. now, as for on or off axis, you have to try it for yourself, see what way you like the sound of the tweeters the best, some people have them pointing at the front window to increase stage depth and width as well as to effect frequency response, others may have them facing at opposite side headrests, or even at the centre console. it all depends entirely on your gear, setup, and car, you may even end up with each tweeter facing very different directions if you're not overly concerned about SQ, I'd just be facing them at the opposite side headrests. changing the phase of the tweeters will effect the sound slightly, and effect the frequency response where the tweeter crosses over to the mid, but it has nothing to do with on or off axis. why dont you read this: http://www.richardfarrar.com/are-your-speakers-wired-correctly/ phase is just a matter of you swapping positive and negative wires around, THATS IT. nothing more, nothing less. An easy way to tell if its all in phase (wouldnt do it on tweeters tho for risk of blowing the coil) is to take a small battery for a split second and touching it on the leads of the speaker. The cone will slightly move to one direction since you are applying a DC signal to it. Dont do this for longer than a second or two tho. Then what you can do is to perform the same test to all your speakers to make sure the speakers move in the same direction when the battery is powered to the speaker. For example take a AA battery and connect the positive of the battery to the positive of your speaker, then take the negative of the battery to the negative of your speaker, when you apply the power and complete the circuit the cone will travel one way, either down to the motor or up toward you. Note which way it moves and once you figure if it moves inwards or outwards perform the same test to all your other speakers to see if any of them change directions. If they do, just reverse the polarity of the wires to make it back to the same phase you figured out earlier. Now you dont have to worry about the phasing affect if your equipment is all setup correctly, positive to positive, negative to negative. But as previously mentioned for some reason idgaf to know your tweeter phase means a lot. If your tweeters are not directed to you set the phase switch to off, if they are directed to you, set the phase to on. Your mids you dont need to have a concern about the phase as long as you wired them up correctly. I have done a lot of reading up on this and it doesnt affect the sound response as long as you have everything set to the right phase. For example if you have a tweeter hooked up correctly but another one has the reverse polarity, you WILL lose some frequency response as they will cancel eachother out. To better explain this, if you play a frequency, lets say 1KHz and make it a mono track, and the sine wave of your left tweeter at any given moment is at the top, now your right tweeters wave at that same time is at the bottom, they will cancel eachother out to make it a totally flat response. This means one of your tweeters is out of phase and just needs you to swap the wires around. If they are in phase you will not have any cancellation as they are working in sync with eachother and at the same time one wave is at the high peak of its run, the other speaker will also be at the high peak of the freq run. Its not too hard to understand, just set your tweeter to off phase on your crossover if it isnt aimed to your head, or set the tweeter phase to on if they are aimed toward you, simple as that.

I realize that, tweeters NEVER have an on and off axis setting written on them since they are intended to be setup ON AXIS (as i previously stated, means positive to positive, negative to negative) Now if you have it wired like that with a crossover that DOES have the axis setting switch, then you can switch it on the fly by flipping the switch. If you DIDNT you can simply reverse the wires on the tweeter so that the negative wire connects to the positive terminal on your tweeter. Re read what i posted before and try to understand it.

Also to add to what kirill said, on axis means that the positive terminal of your tweeter is connected to the positive wire of your speaker cable. Now if it was off axis, that would mean that your tweeters positive terminal would be wired to the negative speaker cable. I cant remember where i found on here but its like a phase switch, if its set to ON, then everything is wired up like normal, positive to positive, negative to negative. Now if it was set to OFF, it would make the positive connect to the negative, and the negative to the positive. Theoretically if you didnt use the crossovers they give you with your speaker set, you can adjust the axis yourself by just switching how your tweeter is hooked up. Like i mentioned previously, if you just switch the wires around so that the positive wire coming from your amp is connected to the negative lead off your tweeter, then take the negative wire coming from your amp and connect it to the positive lead of your tweeter that would be OFF axis or out of phase. Now if you wired them so that the positive wire coming from your amp is connected to the positive lead off your tweeter, and the negative speaker wire from the amp is connected to the negative lead of your tweeter then it would be ON axis or in phase. I really dont know what the difference is with this other than the polarity that the speaker will travel when music plays through it. I was messing with my tweeters when i put them in with the on and off axis and never heard any difference but i set it to off axis since my tweeters are not aimed to my ears (they are in the A pillar mounted straight to the other side of the truck). So to sum it up, if your speakers are pointed to your ears, then set it to ON for the axis switch. If the speakers are not pointing to your ears, then set the axis switch to OFF.

For optima batteries, i would get 2 of them. Now if it was XS power, id get a single one cuz they are badass from the hell i put mine through. One xs power d3100 and a s or d3400 in the engine would be perfect for you. I always tend to like going for the high output alt first tho now instead of batteries. Whats the point in getting a battery you cant keep charged and kill faster since your alt cant keep up with it?

I had two 12" kicker cvx subs and then after i burned them out i went to a 12" solox. I gave the solox 2-3x more power than the cvx's and it wasnt as loud. I was pretty happy with the two 12" i had in there and now im in the progress of seeing how a 18" sounds. Also... Dr. Subwoofer is in the building everyone. If you want to give the chicks in your ride penetration, get a 15" subwoofer XD edit: just from something i experienced, kicker subs seem to be kinda punchy with bass until they are worn in. All my kicker subs i own (cvr, cvx, solox) have a tight and punchy bass response at any frequency as long as it isnt below tuning if its in a ported box. Now granted i only had a fusion (like a pyle sub but better looking, rofl), elevation audio sqx, and a kenwood subwoofer, all 12", but the kicker still seemed to be a tad bit louder but again, it was punchy.

Just so you are aware, ground loop isolators arent a 100% guarantee to fix your whine you are hearing. They help but dont eliminate all the noise.

This is true. like i said, i have alternator whine in mine but i dont hear it on my speakers when i slam my music (although i just have mids and highs on my truck till next week) and i hear the whine when its just starting to warm the engine up, after its warm it doesnt do it for some odd reason or another.

you can get those ground loop rca's at best buy or radioshack. i know radioshack sells them for sure cuz i worked at both stores.

I would try what i said with the headphone to female rca jack and connect it to a ipod, pc, or anything with a standard headphone jack. I would really do that as a final say in what the problem could be. It would be the easiest to do than checking that ground wire. This is what you need: http://www.google.com/imgres?q=headphone+to+female+rca&um=1&hl=en&sa=N&tbm=isch&tbnid=sNj2Y9ESdHbi3M:&imgrefurl=http://www.cablewholesale.com/specs/headphone-to-rca-cable/10a1-12206.htm&docid=bfwImxaqNBJG3M&w=380&h=179&ei=8K80TpKmJILEgQeHj6WNDQ&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=1090&vpy=184&dur=211&hovh=110&hovw=235&tx=133&ty=66&page=2&tbnh=91&tbnw=194&start=19&ndsp=18&ved=1t:429,r:17,s:19&biw=1366&bih=643 just go to a radioshack, best buy, or any other electronics store, they will have these in stock no doubt. Also when you do it, make sure your ipod volume is down low or you will blast the hell out of your speakers with music, start the volume down low and play something then. Im 100% sure its your headunit that has a problem, now whether its the ground or just a bad unit idk unless you test the ground wires resistance.

I would do the ground trick and then see if it helps any. If it doesnt then you can do a final test to take the headunit out of the equation. Take a ipod or similar MP3 player and get a headphone to RCA (female) jack connector. Then connect your rca wire you originally ran to the rear of the vehicle and play music with the engine running. If you hear noise then its not the radio or rca's, its the amps.

I swapped the RCAs coming from the front RCA channel to the sub RCA on HU and plugged them from the front amp RCAs to the Sub amp and the same problem occured. I'm thinking either blown RCAs or just simply a bad headunit ground. There's a ground directly behind my headunit I'm going to try an ground there. Not trying to be a jackass or what not but thats not what he meant by swapping rca's. He means did you buy new and fully working rca wires and tried to connect them from the headunit to your amps to see if the noise is present. I would buy new rca cables and run them on the driver side of your vehicle in the floor panel that is underneath the plastic trim you can pop up and slip the wire underneath. Im sure that will kill your alternator noise. You also gotta remember that on your vehicle, there are wire harnesses that come from the factory that are under your carpet and im sure that wire loom is causing some noise too.