kickass audio

first off... Nice sub in your pic Chris. Im using the same thing (well was in my car about 3 months ago) now im using the elevation audio sqx in my room, its a rock solid sub espically for me feeding that little thing 1400 watts rms daily!! haha. Second... go for an audioque or something different. audiopipes are good from what ive heard but to be honest all the pros and installers i talk to say that since they are out of business that your best bet would buy from a brand where if u fry the amp you can get it repaired cheaper than be out all that money to get another amp. im going to be getting an audioque aq3500d.1 amp for my kicker solox (probably going to put another solox in my trunk next year) but every guy i talk to about it says its a solid as hell amp. Id either go with a sundown or audioque amp.

when i get pics from Nate i will do that for you. But right now i dont have any idea what it looks like. I just trust that its nothing thats going to look like crap because their other hold-downs look really good and xs power batts are awesome. i own one and it kicks so much power to my amp that i could run 3 cars off it.

just for people who may read this and wonder. I did get a hold of nate and order my stuff. He has been one hell of a guy to go to for help. Sometimes it takes awhile to get a hold of him but he is a busy man. And plus i work in a call center daily and i know how hard it is to call back the ppl i say i will callback when you have a ton of calls pouring in on you. Anyway, cant wait to get the d3100 and the hold down for it.

ok, so how do you wire a tach wire? i have no clue how to do that. ill admit it, im a noob at remote start/security systems but the guys we bought the remote start from screwed up both the vehicles we had them install. if you guide me through it i can do it i can do it.

alright, so since you helped me with that stupidly easy question maybe you can help address these... 1.) How do you get into the programmer feature so that i can decrease the amount of time the engine cranks to do a remote start? Right now the engine will crank for about 2.5 to 3 seconds before it either turns the engine over, or if the engine is extremely cold (about 20 degrees Fahrenheit) it will not succeed and will retry the engine starting sequence. Since the engine is usually warm (around 40 to 90 degrees) it starts in like 1.5 to at the most 2 seconds. since it goes this fast and the remote start doesnt catch up on it i wanted to stop the starter grinding that occurs. 2.) When i shut off the car and get out of it and lock up the doors the interior lights stay on for a good 2 minutes. how can i decrease the time or make it so that when i hit the lock button that the interior lights turn off? Again, i looked at the installer menus and im confused as hell at how to program this unit. any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!!!

wow, that worked. thanks so much!!!!! i read the stupid manual and it said 5 seconds.

Ok, so my dad has a compustar rf-1wg2-am remote starter in his 1997 chevy tahoe. personally i hate the remote starter on his tahoe as well as another compustar remote starter on my moms car which i hate since they cannot be programmed like my omega remote start/alarm can be. but thats besides the point. im having a ton of problems with my dads remote start in particular. he has the horn output wired up and it does NOT silence at all. i tried to hold the lock and unlock buttons for 5 seconds like the manual says and it will flash the lights and when you unlock, lock, or pop the hatch with the remote the damn horn goes off. ive tried to do this 3 times and nothing makes a difference no matter how long i wait. is there anything you can direct me toward in possibly finding the lead that the horn is tapped into to shut the horn off? my dad hates the horn feature and since he locks/unlocks the truck a ton and he did that so much that he burned out the stock horn on his tahoe and has an aftermarket horn that has a fucked up note and it sounds like a toyota. lmao. But any help with this would be greatly appreciated. i cant figure it out and thats pathetic. lol.

this is the difference... i asked nate the same thing and he informed me this... "The s series batteries have a reinforced steel casing whereas the d series just has the plastic casing." So the s series has a little more integrity than a d series. I own an s3400 batt under my hood now and i just ordered my d3100 from nate today. xs power batts are awesome and i believe they are under-rated. I had my s3400 tested when it was new and it tested at 1060 crank amps. I just had that same battery tested about 2 weeks ago and it tested at 1200 crank amps!! Im using that battery to power a 1400 watt rms amp at 4 ohms and it will let me crank the power without the engine on for about 1 hour before i have to turn the engine on to charge it back up. xs power is one hell of a battery to use. Hope this helps clarify the difference for you!

Ok, so ive tried to email you a few times and havent received any reply back. I just wanted to know how the billet hold down you were talking about will secure my d3100 in my trunk. pics would be awesome or a general drawing/sketch for me. I will call you tomorrow to buy the battery but just wanted to see how i will secure this battery in my trunk using the hold down module you said can be made for this battery. Thanks in advance and im still happy to own the s3400 i got from you back in april this year.

to be honest with you. all the ones ive looked at from him are 399. and the beauty is that i bought an alt for my 98 oldsmobile 88 and he said i can send the alt back to him for $20 and he will recase it to fit my 1997 tahoe i plan to get in the near future. thats one hell of a deal.

he is definitally the cheapest and by far the fastest at responding to any questions whether they be dumb or very detailed questions. I cant wait until i get the alt i just bought from him today.

dude seriously im pretty new in the car audio field (been doing it for 4 years now) and i know to always wire in parallel (for batts) amps at the most can to up to 16 or 18 volts for amps that have fairly unregulated psu's on them. my amp im using now however is tightly regulated and no matter the voltage it puts out nearly the same rms power but will draw more current to keep the voltage the same and to keep the rms power the same level. the only and i repeat ONLY thing you can wire in series is your speakers NEVER EVER the batteries. your car will instantly explode if not melt from hooking it to 24 volts.

great to hear that you are doing ok Steve!!!! Still wishing u and your family the best out of it all. If you want to get rid of the infection fast just sit in your hoe or chickens ride and crank the bass. you will kill everything in your body and maybe even pop out an eye hahaha. anyways wishing for a speedy recovery!!

awesome. where did you get the dual bracket from? did dominick build it for you?

nice, what type did you get? did yours come with the adjustable voltage output on the alts?

wow this is awesome to hear. i have heard numerous times on the forums about how awesome he is just thought id see what everybody else thinks of his products. i really like that im saving $300 from it having the voltage control built into the alt, thats really nice to have and for the price you are right, it cant be beat. the lowest price next to mechman was $480 and that was from excessive amperage for a 300 amp alt, and $499 from xs power for a 250 amp alt. (not that i dont like xs power, i love the s3400 battery i own now and will be buying a d3100 battery from them after my alternator purchase) but the prices are killers. but its really great to hear that you like your products from him.

Ok, so heres what i was priced on. I was quoted $399 for an 250 max amps alternator that will do about 150 amps at idle. First, is this a good price? it is a hybrid alt from what i was told and will have an adjustable voltage screw where i can mess with the voltage output of the alt. Second: Will this be alright to work temporarily (at most 1 month) with one xs power s3400 battery powering a 1400 watts rms @ 8 ohms bridge for a load without frying the alt? Third: Anybody have anything good or bad to say about mechman?

yea, thats what i was thinking as well. Right now i only have my 200 amp fuse that is 3 feet from my batt to the fuse holder. then the 1/0 keeps going straight back to my cap (which i know is shit but it worked like a charm for my old school 500 watt amp) and from the cap right to the amp. so the fuse in my engine is all i have. the only thing i was thinking to do is that my amp is old and doesnt put out enough power i can feed my woofer so i was going to get an audioque 3500d.1 amp which takes 2 inputs of 0 gauge. i was thinking to keep the 250 amp fuse in my engine as well as having a xs power d3100 in my trunk (to replace the cap) and from the d3100, ill use a short run of 1/0 to the amp and have each positive have a 200 amp fuse. do you think that its too much power loss from using 3 fuses? i really dont need a car fire since i almost lost my car from it (stupid 4 gauge wire came loose on a "0/4 gauge compatible" anl fuse holder and caused it to get loose, melt the wire, and burn up without blowing the fuse at all. but let me know what you all think of what i plan to do when im upgrading the amp to the aq 3500d.1

i already have a ton of 1/0 from my co-worker. i also have 1/0 for the amp and everything.

thats what i was thinking but i never saw the point since stock alts never have a fused positive wire. Not that it makes any difference but should i use a mini-anl fuse for the alts wire or a normal anl style fuse? i have the room for both types so its not a big deal for it.

Hello all, I have seen several vids of meade's designs on his engines with all the alts and i was wondering... Why would you use a fuse to protect the alternator and the batt? Wouldnt you want to get a ton of power from your alt and not blow a fuse doing it?? And plus, if anybody knows someone who builds brackets for alternators please please hit me up, im going to buy an alt for a 1998 oldsmobile 88 (my current car i drive) and i want to be able to put that same 300 amp alt into my dads 1997 chevy tahoe when i buy it. yes i know that they arent bolted in the same way which sucks but i was wondering if anybody knew some guys who can make me a custom bracket where i can strap the alt of my oldsmobile into the tahoe as a secondary alt. Thanks in advance!!!

Hey, thought id help. My wire for the remote turn on is colored light blue with a strip of white on it. it was 2 wires over from the same row as the ground on my h/u. but my headunit is from 98 so dont go by mine being 100% accurate.

do you mean q-logic? i know they are pretty reputable. subzone boxes from what ive listened to are fairly decent but by no means like anything you can make yourself. at least when you make it, you know the tuning as well as all the sizes and everything. in the end its better and even cheaper to make your own box.

Steve Meade did that, as to how to go about doing it... im clueless about it. it probably isnt that hard but im lazy and would make it just one tuning freq. im sure someone else on here knows how to do it.

i think your system will be pretty good. if your batt is crap then your voltage will drop down fast as hell but if you have the blazer shown into the pic, they have a little volt meter built into the dash. so you can at least keep an eye on it with that. my car doesnt have that, all i have is a little batt light that comes on when the voltage is at 11v. or the warning when my remote starter will run the car for a min and when the battery light comes on, it shuts off. my car is stupid