Soulman07

Silvers are 1ohm stable bridged I believe. The black ones are 2ohm stable only, I think that's about it. The silvers were the 07 models, most sites confuse the two now a days though

Pretty much any GM vehicle that's a truck or SUV with little to no modifications at all.. The large case alternators were somewhat retired in the late 90s though.. So on most of the newer vehicles with CS-130D,AD230/244 series alternators... the bolt holes will line up. The casing might be an issue depending on where it's going though.

I'd run two runs of whatever I have from alt to battery regardless:) depending on length and how warm the engine actually gets... Wouldn't hurt to do it!

I'm dying to see it put together...

My Cadillac did something similar:(

The first dude in the passengers seat was priceless.. His whole everything just went to hell when the bass dropped... good shit

Sounds like UPS!!! My driver is the shit though! The guy I have had deliver for me here ever since I moved in knows the flow of things... An he leaves the stuff in the closet on the porch and puts the key back where it is... In residential area's there policy is different, so require the signature! or run the risk of losing it on the back porch, front,side door, neighbor..who or wherever they feel is safe is basically where it's left at.

I had to check my eyes to make sure I wasn't seeing things... Holy $*%^... this is different

The alarm situation is pretty easy to address..whoever installed your alarm didn't wire up the 3 ignition harness wires right because It's not kicking the alternator on now. Something that'll solve the problem is switching the remote wire on the vcm to a wire that shows 12+ when the ignition is on. I've seen a few situaitons where the radio's don't turn on by default with DEI alarms on older vehicles an you have to actually turn the ingition switch into the ON position beforeit actually turn the radio on. The other question I can't really answer for you I wish you the best of luck though

Sounds frustrating... Most of the time you just ground the parking brake wire on most units. It'll allow the screen to function without any issues at all times. I'd need the model of the unit to tell you exactly though.

7850

Most that like to explore the possibilities of science are considered dumb in different situations that don't seem very logical. If it works no matter how far fetched it sounds you will probably be next in line to use the method. Doesn't mean you have to be pessimistic about it when someone asks for advice though... Is all that 15vmax was trying to say I think.

How many lights? You would just take the AH rating on the battery and then apply 20 hours to it... Sooooo a battery with a 30 AH rating can supply 30 amps of power for 20 hours before dropping to 10.5... So if you have bulbs that pull 3.5-4 amps of current.. It's a looooooooooooong time brother.

It's pretty good stuff for the $$$

Yeah, just make sure you have 1 ground from the block to battery.. one from battery to chassis. An I have heard of a few people grounding the alternator to the chassis too. I don't know if the last one is completely necessary though.

I have hidden all of mine in the same place... Behind an air conditioner vent or in the defroster grill. Works like a charm, I hard wire them and mount a little external speaker so if it is in a remote area it can still be heard.

You changing your post doesn't stop me from seeing what was originally sent to my email. Anyway, to stay on topic. It's not something I'd do personally to the OP, my 7 years of pc related experience and being shocked 290324392482984202084 times from trying various things with older power supplies and even some newer modular styles as well just to test certain stuff says it wouldn't be logical for 1000+ watts of power and such large demand for amperage. If you plan on hacking wires re-soldering and doing it the correct way. I'd say go for it, the original post was kind of vague to begin with though. I wouldn't have peace of mind leaving it on for longer periods of time or having the assurance that my equipment would be completely safe though.

You fail to read the fact in the OP that he clearly stated he wanted to run a 1000 watt mono block amplifier off of car stereo equipment in his bedroom. Go for it.. Install it, I wish you the best of luck Edit: 1. pertaining to or dealing with morals or the principles of morality; pertaining to right and wrong in conduct. 2. being in accordance with the rules or standards for right conduct or practice esp. the standards of a profession: It was not considered ethical for physicians to advertise. 3. (of drugs) sold only upon medical prescription. Websters translation for ethical It being used in that context is completely fine. If English is your primary language then you should know that each word has quite a few different meanings depending on how you choose to use it.

You'd be better off getting a small AGM battery and a small charger for it that'll keep the battery floating comfortably @ around 13.8 - 14.4. It'll even cost less and actually be efficient.

You must have missed my point somewhere in there... Is it safe? No! 100amps isn't much for a power supply that's 83% efficient @ 12.5 volts at most. Will your cars amplifiers pull more amps at lower voltages.. yes! what size wires are you working with <16 gauge! will the power supply be able to keep up with demand for music... NO! Is it likely to go up in smoke... YES!. It's not a very ethical long term investment in my opinion... You might as well be plugging your amplifier directly to a wall socket to see if it works that way.

Computer power supplies don't put out too much amperage on the 12v rails... An all of your voltage ratings would be @ around 11.5-12v. If you exceed your maximum amperage output... Most power supplies will blow up or either go into protect and shut the unit off. I just use one for testing.. I don't go to the extreme of using it on a daily basis an actually playing music off of it for extended amounts of time.

I would add quite a few more batteries, that's just me though. They'll weaken soooo fast from just the system alone that you'll probably end up charging them every day or every other day just from them having to make up for the difference in load the alternators can't produce. Especially if it's a DD an you plan on beating it hard! Outside of that, good work!

Banks can dispute charges for you too... Could take up to 90 days though.. Which is a biznitch. Sorry it happened to you, I can relate. I bought some amps from an online retailer VM Innovations that were suppose to be new.. Ended up being refurbished and both didn't work... Wouldn't refund for full amount.. took 4 weeks for the claim.. they never got their merchandise or sent UPS around.. I got them fixed under warranty... An ended up selling them... Some companies attempt to screw you over and state outrageous policies and stuff. I wouldn't worry about it, any *GOOD* bank will have your back regardless.

Depends on the battery and how well it's charged. Most rest in between 12.3 - 13. Sounds to me like you are just dipping at idle, which means your battery reserve is supplying some of the current needed for your system. Not really a big deal unless you plan on demoing for 12-15 hours straight non stop.. I wouldn't be too concerned about it unless you plan on beating for quite a while. Your batteries will weaken some though.