cc_audio

I'm not going to speak on behalf of everyone but, most use the front channel for the front two speakers (left and right) and the rear channel for the rear two speakers (left and right). I on the other hand have learned that its all about the front stage and I like to run multiple 2-channels for my personal car (and any large builds that I do) meaning one 2-channel for two sets/pairs of components and another for supertweets. (an optional smaller amp if I want to run active on my tweets and then active on my mids with components)(or even another 2-channel for another pair of stout mids to compliment the extra super tweets). What all that means is I would personally like to run four 2 channel amps, 2) for a pair of components ran active (amp on tweets and amp on mids), 1) for a pair (instead of the four I have now) super tweets) and 1) for a single (bridged) or a pair of beastly mids. This is all ideally of course and I would like to run Boston Acoustik GT-24s since I have fallen in love with them. After my Celica I haven't ran rear speakers since (after hearing a few true SQ setups). All you really need is a really strong front stage, and you won't have to worry about imaging ever again. With that Diamond amp, I would recommend a pair of either D3 or D6 Diamond audio components, Rockford Fosgate T1-652s or T2-652s, or either the Boston Acoustics SA-60 or the ProSA-60 components are the best/cheapest components I can think of off the top of my head that would do that amp justice. And then its up to you what you'd like to do with the rear channel. You can run some full-range coaxials for a rear stage or some extra supertweets/ midranges to compliment your components in your front stage. But when it comes to component speakers, I tend to go with mainstream companies. There may be better options out there that others know about (that perform way better for less $$), but personally I am 100% hooked on Rockford components (I love the last and the new power series especially) with a passion and I can't wait to get my hands on the new Fosgate super tweeters to replace my Crescendo tweets. You can do whatever, but that is my recommendation.

Damn dude, that's some serious commitment. Hell, I'm not celebrating thanksgiving just cause I'm not in the states right now, but you are a soldier. The $80 mark sounds fantastic. But honestly I don't know as much about PRs as I'd like too. As much as I've used them for home theater, I've actually kind of winged it as much as I've read from tutorials (mostly boston acoustics and and TC LMS passive radiator write-ups and limited home theater forum write-ups long ago). Other than the few I've read, I'm clueless. If you add stiffer spiders, would you be closer in tuning to say, an SA-8s tuning of 40+ hertz? I'm just curious as to whether stiffer suspension has a play in tuning and affecting whether or not you need more surface area in a PR setup. Drop some knowledge on me please, even if you have to resort to PM. I would appreciate it. You have no idea how much I'd like to get away from JL w7 8"s to install some real 8" drivers that can deliver along with PA drivers to eliminate tuning of fiberglass underseat truck enclosures.

What's your electrical look like for all that power?

Yeah, I know. I've used PRs in home theater and a general rule that I like to follow is ~40% more cone area than the powered driver. But there are exceptions based on PR performance. As long as cost was say two 8" PRs for the price of one of the new SA-8s, I for sure would be using these.

Will there be an 8" passive radiator (pic looks like a 10")? I would most likely use this under a rear truck seat which seams to be the only place I regularly install 8" drivers. And for good reason too, its cause they fit! If you can make an 8" passive radiator, hell one that matches the softparts of an SA-8, then I know I would be buying up plenty just for easy of installation. I hate trying to figure the exact airspace of underseat truck enclosures. And I think I know some people that wouldn't mind running some Sundown rather than the W7s 8s they want or already have.

Since no one else has said it, you got one hell of a deal on that equipment! Just the Diamond Audio D7-104 alone is worth over $400. Amazing amp! Exactly what capacitors do you have? And there are all kinds of awesome 2k amps; DC2.0K, Crescendo BC2000D, Sundown SAZ-2000D, Soundigital SD2000.1, hell even the Rockford Fosgate T20001bd. Just pick one. For alternators I would go with Mechman or DC Power alts, both are awesome. And honestly, I would not be skimpy with the speakers. That 4 channel is awesome and you should really give it a set of components that will compliment the clean signal that amp has to offer. Or send it to me, and I'll send you my Fosgate 450.4 lol.

I see I have made my point. Have you guys heard? Foundation waterproofing tar makes a great Spectrum Sludge replacement?

Unless your The Big Oki.

I also wish FI would cut me a deal on BTLs so that they're closer in price to some Sonys. But then I realized that's absolutely retarded. Better product, better performance means higher price cause that's how business works. For the same money I could buy 8 Sony woofers and be just as loud as a BTL. What would you rather have bro? 8 Sonys or one BTL? Same applies to deadener, and I think I'll take the better deadener.

Want some advice on your door panels? On the back side, there are little plastic rivets that hold the factory speaker grill you cut into. If you take a flat head screw driver and get the end real hot, you can melt the plastic enough to undo the rivets. Once you have the grills off, just wrap in some vinyl or anything thin fabric that matches your car and put them back on using the same hot screwdriver technique to re-flatten the rivets. Its cheap, easy, and will make it look more professional and less like you didn't just cut a hole in the grill.

Tinsels are wimpy and break right at the former, and if you get them moving too much (say too far below tuning) the bracing will break away from the cone or the former. Soundstream brags about they're new and improved excursion capabilities, but once they start getting some throw to them that's when they give up. I was going to swap out a T-4 for one of these a while back. I have such terrible luck that I'm now OCD when it comes to buying anything, I research and research like crazy, especially for electronics. And after seeing a lot of people having the same failures I stuck with my T4. Its handled hell and back for me so far. I have no first hand experience though so, if she works she works. You put some LEDs behind her yet?

Loving the TV rear windows, got build pics of that? EDIT: Nevermind, I can see a shop did this. And with the "gains all the way down" comment I can tell you have no clue how the audio in your car works and the shop probably fed you plenty of bullshit too.

Nice start, wiring looks good. I've heard some horror stories with them T6s, but when you build the box be sure to put some really bright white LEDs inside behind the woofer. Why you ask? Because the cone is transparent and it looks really cool lit up. Get to work and keep the pics coming!

I just had a discussion about PAP this last summer at the speed'n'sound drag show. Derk, a dude I met there, was running an 18" PSI rebuilt sub (I think it was a TRF motor) and he had some great things to say. First he rambled on about Robot Underground and how their recone came apart and was shit and then talked about Pierce Audio. He sent them his motor and they took all winter to build with excuse on top of excuse. He went on and on, and had some really colorful things to say about them and RU. But he was obviously very happy with his PSI recone. I myself have had bad luck with RU, but up until just now I thought PAP was dead. Didn't they make the Weapons of Mass Destruction subs with the cones that look like blue jeans? Either way, obviously they're not big enough that I would trust sending my sub to them. I'll stick to Dave at PSI or Forevrbumpn.

Get some videos up now! I love this build!!!

Not bad, I like it. Be sure to post up any other tracks he's got.

Honestly, to get the best performance out of those dimensions would just be one 12". Otherwise, if you can dig for more space that would be the better approach. Right now, the airspace just isn't there, even with 1/2" MDF (which I wouldn't recommend anyway). Only woofer thin enough that can handle some real power and put out are the new Type R shallow drivers. And it would perform beautifully in a box that size. EDIT: You could maybe make 4) 10" Pioneer TS-SW251s fit in that box. Their minimum airspace is .35^3 and they're right around your budget each and are still thin enough to fit.

Looking good. Like to see small builds where no corners were cut, everything looks well done. Although, the car could use a drop kit before the driver gets a nose bleed.

I have used Fatmat Rattle Trap on numerous occasions. So far I have yet to have a car come back with it falling off the roof, and I always check when if I can. You cannot be lazy with the cheap stuff for sure, and i think my meticulous application of Rattle Trap is why it has treated me so well. Have I used the shit in my own personal car? Hell no! Lol, Second Skin for me. I got hooked when I won that door pack forever ago.

If those are your dimensions, your only looking at 2 cubes before any displacements. That's not going to leave much volume for four drivers unless you're thinking 8"s.

Since I was bored and I plan on picking up a Boobaru myself, I guess I could make yours sexy for ya.

SMDDD1 is the coupon code, gives you an extra 10% off.

How green we talking?

EDIT: Nevermind, errbody beat me to it ^^^

I'm assuming you mean the A275HCT with the raised flames all over it? If it is, it probably weighs a ton even though its not that big? That amp should only have 50amps worth of fusing, it would be lucky to make 500-600 watts before clipping. Still, I've installed a handful of Audiobahn amps and I have no problem with them, I don't think I've ever heard of one blowing up that I've installed so I'm assuming they're reliable. I know they were really popular 6-7 years ago when ebay was flooded with them. Everybody I did systems for wanted the subs and amps with flames. Lol, my very first system were Flame Qs.