fritosaregood

your also gonna want to put two fuses in the positive run, one right after the front batt and one right before the back batt Batt 1----fuse---------------------------------------------fuse-----batt 2 and in case you ask........short circuit here^........... and both batts will be safe. thats why you need 2 fuses

agreed, this is a big factor. the smaller your port area, the sub should be able to go farther below tuning before unloading on itself. you usually wont hear much when you go too far below the tune anyway. and ppl dont do that to blow subs because its usually only mechanical failure that happens and things rip apart, unless the coil jumps the gap and hits the top plate on the way back in. not any pretty smoke doing it like that.

I know theres lots of these threads, but this video really got to me. do they really think ppl with comp vehicles it the 70s are driving down the streets like that... end vent..

ive dealt with the gain knob shit before, I set it with a dmm cuz some moron girl wanted her system put in right, only to get a text 30 mins later saying that one of her friends turned a knob up and it got alot louder.... pisses me off

great scores with some great equipment lucky guy going to comps that have nice trophies too. I went to the usaci akansas finals today. and 3 others in the past few months. all 1st places and all reused trophies with just new stickers on most of them. and all scratched up. anyway keep reppin the sundown gear. i had an alpine rep asking me about sundown at this show, maybe i turned him hah

congrats on the trophy, but your volume was on 10/30 and you were getting about 1000 watts out of the amp? and thats clamped power after rise. i hope you arent turning your hu volume up past 15 or so too much

we should get free sundown pens with our orders now, haha

It actually did pretty good, peaked on the termlab at 42hz i think with a 144.4 i think. I did a 140.1 at 25hz. It was a mess up box that turned out real well. It was an attempt a a tline before i knew all the rules to building one

Thanks for the good comments guys. I was just walking through Lowes one day and saw those for 97 cents a pipe, and just thought to myself.. i could do something nice with those.

hey skittles, I finally got just a hair over your score, i got a 150.5 sealed up on the dash @ 41hz. no vid or pic though cuz i was doing power testing and just writing it all down. and on topic, i also did a half ass hairtrick with a single 15, in a 2 cube box, 22hz tune, 25sqinches of port, on 3k. It did the trick at 20 hz,

heres how mine are ran

will here is an 18s tsns doing a hairtrick all about the box really. lots of nice port. This its doing about a 147ish with this song.

i thought it was retarded when he took about the pool table. grabs the giant circular saw for cutting through concrete or steel or something and cuts the wood part of the pool table. and got the heavy machinery to cut up steel beams to cut through the van. while the host stands 5 ft from the cutter. i did always wonder how the que ball comes back in the bar type pool tables.

mine goes off from time to time. turning off the computer usually fixes it

warranties arent suppose to cover stupidity...

dangit.. just notices i made the date wrong

BLOWN Audiopulse Axis 15" Top Assembly One working Coil for specs http://www.audiopulse.com/products/subwoofer-drivers/axis just the top assembly Only One coil is working so thermal power ratings is cut in half Got the Driver from partsexpress, Used for about 1 year, Something slipped in my trunk and shorted out the pos and neg speaker terminals for one coil. I didnt notice until i tryed to wire it in series to 4 ohms and it didnt work. after that i used it as a passive radiator in a box with four sundown E8s Cone has no dents or dings One coil is in perfect working order and reads 2.2 and the terminal the other coil reads nothing at the terminal. Sometimes i can get it to read 2.2 across the tensils, other times i can. It comes with the speaker gasket too. $150?? +shipping Make and offer though

What program are you using. Im not using anything to determine port area except what ive learned from building boxs. A good rule is to do 12 to 16 sq inches of port area (height * width of port, no lengh involved) per cubic foot of box volume. in some of my boxes having 20 per cube worked out great for my subs. For my 15 i found that 50sq inches was a good amount for the sub, no matter my box size, for daily use. 300sq inches for a 9 cube box is 33 sq inches per cube. If you use 150 to 180 as i suggested you will be at 16 to 20 sq inches per cube. which is what i have found good for daily use in my boxes. In your case though, your port can only take up 1 cube of space, so you may have to shrink your port area down so the length of the port is short enough to keep the box the right volume and keep the 30 hz tuning. You may also want to shrink your size because of the power your running to each sub, or mechanical failure may happen. But i also have no experience with the smd subs and if they do better on a larger or smaller port. and for the calculator, i use winisd to design my boxes. its free

150 to 180 inches of port area should be good for 9 cubes. you may have to shrink it down to be able to have the 30 hz tune and not have to port be 40 or so inches long. unless you find more room for the added volume