BigJohnny

You wanna WALK up to the DRIVE up ATM cause there are two people inside, FUCK THAT!!!!!!! you wanna stop in a turning lane on a busy 4 lane road to let your elderly wife do some shit outside, and endanger the rest of the traffic.... FUCK THAT!

If I was ever going to commit suicide that would be how I would want to die..... blasted to death by bass.

you mean a hall that you could die in lol..... You would have to have a seperate generator altogether to power it, no other way.

when using the compressor what would be good settings to change? I've been using it with it's default settings and just pressing ok.

I would try lowes above the others, but they should ALL carry the bits....they're usually near the dremels, somewhere in that general area.

I was thinking this exact same thing when this whole thought occurred to me. So I could have an evap can full of gas. It creates a vacuum to suck fumes out of the tank does it not? if so, how long would it take for the gas in the canister to evaporate with airflow/vacuum helping it along? I've noticed the engine idling roughly too, I think it relates to this problem since its probably feeding more gas into the engine through the EGR valve and making it burn rich right?

now this I would like to know more about, because I'm getting a P1443 code right now, and there have been a couple of times I've managed to fill my tank to the cap by accident. P1443 - Evaporative Emission System Control Valve, Low/No Flow As I mentioned above, I have done this a couple of times, and now I have this error code. usually I just add about $2 after the nozzle stops on it's own....... generally this isn't overfilling my tank, but there have been times, maybe i'm on an angle or something, that this extra $2 has filled it to the cap.

Quick question from the curious corners of my cranium..... Is it bad to overfill your gas tank, like right up to the nozzle, or a couple bucks past the point when the nozzle stops filling.

Go grab yourself a Rotozip general purpose bit. you can get them at home depot or similar.... looks like a drill bit, but its not as short as the ones pointed out above. Either this Tracing XBIT™ XB-MPGP2 OR Sabrecut™ Bit SC5 good bits, however, go slow, make sure there is 1/4" of shaft between the spiral, and the collet for cooling or the bit will heat up and break. Also, don't force it let the bit do the cutting and I forget which way you need to move the tool, but if you go one way it will be hard to get it to cut, going the other way will make it easy but you need counter the pull of the bit or it will pull you way off course..... I think you want to cut from right to left, or counter clockwise..... I can't quite remember, it's been a while since I cut holes with my Spinsaw.

whats the price on one of those large case 3Gs? and output compared to regular case?

yes and yes. hypertech makes some of the best chips out there imo. they usually go for somewhere around $200+. My dad used a programmer on his 87 suburban, and man did it make a difference. He also used a hypertech chip in his 1992 GMC 3500 pickup.... and once again omg. the burb had a 350 in it, and the pickup has a 7.4L 454...... that beast was stupid powerful when the chip was in.... it was only on loan though. helped with fuel economy in both cases too.

x2 ...... Im sure i've seen her before.

Try these guys if your looking for a meter. I purchased a temp. display from them. The units are nice, decently priced and didn't seem cheaply built (however, DO NOT reverse the polarity on the temp displays......... nuff said) http://stores.shop.ebay.ca/Asia-Engineer_2...634Q2ec0Q2em322

Dollarama has mini tri-pods for, you guessed it, $1. they're metal, and decent for setting up a camera on a table to take pics. I've yet to buy one, and you probably don't have a Dollarama by you unless your in Canada.

you'll never know until you drive it. my 1996 Cougar is in excellent shape, was well taken care of, oiled every year, oil changed every 5000km, kept clean and only minor aesthetic damage(old age) ...... the damn thing is even clean in the engine bay.(i made it more clean) It's going in today for a $500 repair job on the back brakes, the calipers were totally seized, and it has a rad leak. The transmission may also be slipping a bit, and probably hasn't had any maintenance done on it in it's life....even the factory windshield wipers were still on it. sure it looked good, but it has problems..... i'm just glad it isnt a torrent of problems like some old cars.

I like what your trying to do, but in all honesty, you didn't really make any real point...... it sounded a little bit like a whiny 16 year old angry because others are angry. Allow me to play devils advocate here. Those loud exhaust systems aren't allowed as they also violate noise laws, same as any stereo system. Also, the types of stuff most people are complaining about are the people who put loud systems in their car, with no thought.... you know the wreckless 16 year olds who spend thousands on a pre-fab box and some big speakers, then crank the gains and disturb the peace.... these aren't people who have pout thought into their systems. Ok, so you understand TS params, and resonant frequency, but how does that help make the point that you are not an "audio terrorist"?? Here I am, someone who absolutely loves loud cars, and I see you say that and think "ok.... how does that relate?" How does one cheap speaker ($200) equate at all to a bicycle?? so I can buy a speaker for less than a bike. but will that speaker get me around? is that speaker even useful at all without an amp to drive it, wiring to connect it and everything else needed to make that speaker make sound...... so in the end, it will cost WAY more to make sound, than it will to buy a bike, and it still won't get me around anywhere. If this is a lifestyle then compare it to other lifestyles, gay for instance..... gay people are "protected" and allowed to live their lifestyle.....owning a bike is not a lifestyle. Like I said dude, I agree with what your trying to say but I think you went about making the points the wrong way.... it just comes off as an amateur 16 year old who wants to have a loud system, disturb the peace and get away with it. no I DO NOT agree with the stereo being quiet enough to NOT be heard 25ft away, because even turned down WAY WAY low, bass travels farther than 25 ft..... maybe focus on that..... talk about the sound waves and the fact that when turned down low enough not to hear the bass, the driver themselves can't hear shit either. also, people not in the know, are going to have trouble; listening to rap, people that complain about this stuff HATE rap have no clue what a screwed song won't give a shit what song is playing or what you did to it or why.

there has to be something to CHARGE the battery bank, what good will it do to have a ton of batteries when they are dead and cant be charged because your alt is working overtime to charge your cars abttery, the battery bank, and run all of the other accessories.

I'm tall and have long arms...... I can lean over slighty and reach well past the mid point of my window. or id hang a rig from the ceiling and hang from it

I went "hog hell" on my engine bay, didn't cover anything, and sprayed everything, being careful of the oil dipstick and tranny dipstick. The car started and ran just fine. I SOAKED the bay with Gunk Citrus degreaser first (works very well too) and let it soak for like 30 mins or so..... sprayed more degreaser then went ape shit with the power washer.......

While doing a "routine" brake pad change I happened to notice that my rear calipers are in pretty bad shape. long story short (5 hours for a full brake pad job... ouch) my passenger rear caliper wont compress. There is a tool for this, to rotate the piston so it will seat, but a pair of large needle nose did the trick too. Well, the piston will turn but doesn't seat, or even move in at all. The caliper pins were also seized and wouldn't slide but I fixed that, so now I'm wondering if this caliper works at all. The brake pads on this one are also the least worn out of all 4. The dust boot is also totally gone from around the piston. so, the piston turns, but won't move in while doing so like it's supposed to, and using a c-clamp does nothing at all......you can't push these pistons in, they need to turn. Is there anyway I can get this god damned thing to move back into the caliper so I can get the new pads on it at least for now?? its retarded having 3 out of 4 wheels re-padded. could I spray brake cleaner in there? penetrating oil? anything to get it back in?? after driving I notice the rotor is pretty damn warm, but no where near as hot as the other rotors. so something is working even if just a little bit. EDIT I should mention, the car is a 1996 Mercury Cougar XR-7 ..... supposedly has the sport package, but according to my brake types, apparently not.

jesus christ i was JUST listening to stairway thinking "it would be cool if this had a bassline" .....

The song in this video (NSFW), seems to be a remix of "tell it to my heart" but I can't find any info about any remakes of the song or anything even coming close to this version. link in the video says 211entertainment.com and I couldn't find anything about this song there either. maybe someone is more well connected than me http://www.noob.us/sexy/some-more-nicole/

ya I did that..... its not there.

I don't think so. I was fairly sure it was ok in this forum. I'm not sure where I would put a question like that.... fiberglass/fabrication?? I was asking how to remove the rubber coating on my dash panels.

No neither of those. I did a search, and went through all of "my topics" it has been removed. I even went "back" and was able to view the cached thread, but when I refreshed, it gave me an error.