skittlesRgood

so i can use an AA chaos basket on an AA SMD? they are both AA!

it will be fine.

*Edit* lol nvm im slow...this goes like you connect the red to the constant 12v and then ground the black and then connect the blue to the battery constant on the h/u correct? on the Axxess filter, the box tells you one way to wire it. the instructions tell you another way to wire it. i called axxess and they told me one of the two ways. the way they told me was incorrect. when i told them the way they told me didnt work so i hooked it up the other way and it did work, they told me i have it hooked up wrong now and to do it the way they said... the way that didnt work. fuck axxess lol

just so you know, those are two different types of filters. the axxess one will have a lower output voltage by about 1v, maybe more. then you dont want to match amperage on a component. you always want the component to be able to handle more than what you will use. so a HU with 10 amps of fusing should get at least a 15amp filter. lastly, these filters will only help if the power supply is dirty. if its anything with the audio equipment that is making the noise, the filter wont do shit.

forget about subs and amps. tell me about your box because that's the most important part. the first 3 people to post all say a different subwoofer. and its usually for no other reason than - its the only one they have owned. thats why mods dont actually allow these threads anymore. seriously, lets talk about your box and you can figure out what bandwagon you want to jump on later.

and as it rubs against that hardened carpet it will eat away at it and break it apart because the carpet has nothing behind it to give it strength. plus a good battery rack should hold the battery in place in an accident. after all, you dont want a fire while your stuck upside down in a ditch somewhere.

and wrap a radiator strap around the battery and screw into the wood. that thing will slide back and forth all day if you dont.

thanks for not getting pissy when we told you your amp wont do the power it says it'll do. seriously, it was a relief from all the whiny kids we get here that cry over everything.

probably the plastic covering on the alt. dont be afraid to call them though. they are friendly.

sadly, those numbers seem to be max power ratings. a useless number only put there for marketing. in general, you could guess that RMS will be around half the max rating. so, like donpablo said, probably only 300w. there is nothing you can do to the amp to get a sufficient increase in power

wires are ziptied to the body as far away from the engine as possible.

that would be the stock cluster of wires i mentioned.

you can look up a 180* phase switch on google. look for some pics. basically the higher you turn up the phase, the larger the delay is in sound to the speaker. its really nothing you need to worry about. it wont make the sub louder.

that is a good guess. but i would say that this happening twice, the first time the two wires were seperate so basically 3 times, would be pretty unlikely. i mean, to stop moving back into the boot both times to the same exact point... nah. plus the split loom was the same length as the wire. split loom was not cut.

the sheet metal is flared out and not sharp. there is still rubber intact all around the wire to protect it from sheet metal. the cut was made almost flush with the gromet. there is nothing at all above this gromet. suspention cant come down on top of this, it could only come from underneath and even then i dont see that being possible. i guess ill just have to wait and see if my new fix holds up.

that would be a good way to do it, yes. why do you want a 16v system?

i know you wont like this advice but i hope you listen to it. you are not ready for a 16v system. if you do it wrong you can fuck up your car pretty good. just be cautious. a 16v system is no joke.

oh, no no. dont use a knob from another amp. ive heard of amps smoking just because of that. others claimed that to not be possible but why ever risk it? the remote gain knob will only cut "power". it never adds. so 100% on the remote = whatever the gain at the amp is set to. so i pointed out some smaller problems with your setup and they should be addressed regardless. but it sounds like this knob is your main problem.

it SHOULD be a remote gain. i would be very much surprised if they started using remote bass boost.

im not so much worried about the fix as i am about the cause.

sunday, monday trip. we leave tomorrow morning.

none. steering is a ways below it. firewall sits at least 6" further back than the hood even goes. the only thing remotely near this is the windshield wiper armiture. and thats still a few inches away. ill take more pics.

upper firewall. above the engine.

umm... you mean one of those rubber sex dolls with no head, arms or legs?

see the silver spot on the rubber boot? thats the end of a wire. now this wire has somehow been cut at the same spot, twice. there is nothing near it. surrounded by rubber. wire looks like a knife went through it. its a clean cut. there is something on the boot above the wire that looks like it could be related, but that could have been from pushing the boot into place. now, these two wires go to my siren, and hood pin. the first time it was two seperate wires, this time it was a patch of speaker wire. there are no markings on the factory wiring next to it. the alarm has been in my car for years but was just uninstalled and reinstalled to find a parasitic drain. it was a few weeks before this happened after the reinstall but after fixing it, it was cut again the very next day. what the fuck could have done this? there is no way to reach this from under the car. if there is a way, someone would need to have been extremely crafty and made a tool for it. it doesnt look chewed on. it definitely wasnt pulled so hard it snapped in half.