skittlesRgood

this is my daily system so music is always played on it. 5 cubes. two 6" flared PSP ports. ya man, any help you can give, im all ears. exactly my thought. since it'll be playing music, i think i have to look at the box for this answer. i didnt get a chance to test other frequencies today. ill try to get it done tomorrow and post the results.

well if the theory behind flared ports being more efficient if true, i should have a lot of port area. maybe i need to go back to a slot port and go bigger?

that would mean running them at .25ohm each. not really comfortable with that. not with only 2 batteries at least.

i understand that but my peak is at 45hz so i only really cared about testing at that frequency. if there a way to lower the imp rise at 45hz? i mean, you only got less than 1ohm rise in your testing. there must be some way i can get results close to that. ill go do more testing at some more frequencies

how in gods name is jacob only get 1ohm rise in his testing? im not calling him out, i want to know the secret. i just got a clamp meter and my impedance was 12.5! i have 2 saz-1500's strapped at 2.5ohm. tested at 45hz. gain set with an o-scope. my box is 5^ft, two 6" flared ports tuned to 39hz. 115.8volts/9.2amps = 12.5 115.8 x 115.8 = 13409.64/12.5 = 1072.77 obviously im very disapointed that my two 1500w amps are only doing a little over 500w each. so what can i do to lower my imp rise? im sure a new box would be in order but maybe there are some little things i can do to mine to help? im ready to improve my knowledge guys. teach me all you can.

here is that same sundown 2000 for a lot cheaper. this is a refurb but it'll be damn solid. http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/index.php?...ath=65_67_69_98 and dont worry man, on this forum we dont give a rats ass what any box says. we test the amps and if they dont put out rated power or better, we dont give a shit about them. just forget everything you think you already know. study up on the forums and youll be good to go. welcome to car audio.

i just did a test the day i asked this question. i had some 6" pvc laying around so i took my speaker baffel and use some caulking to arratch it to the pvc. the on the other end i made a plug out of mdf. the plug was tight but i could knock it forward and backward to change the size of the enclosure. i kept going bigger till it sounded good. found out it had to be much too big for me to make an enclosure in the door. my doors are very well deadened and the big holes are sealed up. im still disapointed about its midbass.

it says 2" from the corner of the "L" on in the port to the point of the 45*. that means that itll be closer than 2" at the middle of that 45*. that's where your going to get port noise from. make that corner into a 45 so itll be the same distance from that middle 45. you know what i mean?

yep, pretty simple. then run wires off the back battery to your amps.

ya. thats plenty fine.

happy birthday.

really? my sister's was pretty damn fast. nice little v6. there is a new texas team on the forums. find them and see if someone is close to you.

no idea where that is but i wish i could help. i want to put 18"s in a cougar SO bad. lol almost bought my sister's when she sold it.

tore the spiders? find a used one on ebay.

huh... cant make car payments but you can buy a little system? lol sorry but thats funny.

go search how to set your gains. then go pray your coil doesnt fall apart from the damage you did to it.

thats the coil on the sub burning. probably because you didnt set the gains correctly and your clipping. if you EVER smell smoke. turn it down 1st and see if it goes away. dont just assume its something outside.

forget the fiberglass and use bracing. much faster and cheaper.

exactly, once you get a finger caught in that hole, trying to take that 70lbs woofer out...

just so you know, getting the sub in and out of a flush mounted hole is a pain in the ass. i did it once and ill never make a box like that again.

make sure to double baffle. im sure itll be fine with all those dowels. that port does look funny. you shouldnt have put that bottom piece on the port. just use the bottom of the box as a port. known as a slot port. now if you didnt glue that bottom piece down, the 2 pieces might slap eachother. i never saw the point in putting resin on the corners. air isnt going to get forced through wood glue. unless you use a few layers of fiberglass your not adding to the integrity of the box.

thats what im going off of.

here is a decent amp if you dont want to spend much http://www.woofersetc.com/p7501/BXI-1610D-...k-Amplifier.htm and here is one of you dont care about cost. but you might want to go for the smaller one. this'll give you over that 300w per sub. http://www.woofersetc.com/p4190/ZX15001--K...s-Amplifier.htm he didnt say they were 4ohm. he said he was looking to bridge that amp at 4ohm. so i asume he looked at my link and figured out he would have a 4ohm load. perhaps i put too much faith in him. we'll see but either way, it does 125 x2 at 4ohms. no point is running them on 1 channel and getting half the power.

where did you learn math??? lol oh by the way. NEVER BUY SONY CAR AUDIO PRODUCTS!

not even close. that amp only puts out 340w. look at the RMS rating. NEVER care about its max rating. so that amp will only give each sub 170wrms at 4ohms.